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mikeinri

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2019
Messages
8,206
Location
MA
Went to add a set of new-to-me snappy crowfoot flare nuts to my box and realized my crowfoot sets were taking up entirely too much real estate on the cheap plastic holders that I've put up with for years. I sure didn't have enough room to do the same with my new-to-me set. I also never liked the crowfoots on this style socket holder because they can be difficult to remove, especially the smaller ones.

crowfoot & crowfoot flare nut sets taking up too much real estate.jpg

So I decided to fab up my own like sort of I've seen other people do. Made them pretty crudely out of 3/8 bar stock. Cut each to length, drilled out the ends for some cotter pins, then chucked them in a 1/2 drill as straight as I could so I could taper the ends on the bench grinder while they were spinning. That was fun, not really, but it sort of worked - at least good enough for the girls I roll with.

Then I slightly ground down each of the sides just a smidge and broke the edges so the crowfoots would slide on the bar stock a little easier, and then spent a few minutes on a belt & disc sander trying to mask the worst of the grinder marks before I heated them up with propane and dropped them in oil to give them a bit of bluing so they hopefully won't rust so easy.

Lastly, I rigged up some cotter pins and ball bead chain so I won't so easily lose them. Didn't turn out too bad at all.

DIY bar stock crowfoot organizers.jpg

Most importantly to me, all four sets now take up a fraction of the drawer space the three sets used to. :willy_nil

crowfoot oranization much better.jpg

Those are amazing!

And, thanks for leading me over to this thread. I see that I'm about to lose a bunch of free time catching up here!

Mike
 
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Jgaz

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Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,628
Location
AZ
When I made the wooden table for my drill press I should have put one of the t tracks closer to the chuck. Hindsight.

I recently had to drill a number of 7/8 holes in 6 uprights for a project.
When I set up the first piece I seemed to need about three clamps to hold it in place. Two in the downward direction and one holding the piece against the fence.

I built a quick aux. fence (marked with a red arrow) with a tee slot to allow me to use one rocker clamp to really speed up the job.
The extra fence holds the pieces against the taller fence very well.
IMG_5400.jpeg
Again, not even close to the @PugetDude roller but might help somebody
 

Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,606
Location
Far NE Oregon
I had to do some work on one of the flowerbed drip systems today, which reminded me of this simple I tool I made--as it saves a heck of a lot of time and frustration.

I use 1/2" flex-line for most of my runs. For some of the beds, it has dozens of emitters and barb couplers inserted into it. They make a handy tool for punching the holes where the various widgets will go into the line:

54570165516_d5a831326c_o.jpg

but, if they make a tool for actually inserting those barbed widgets, I've yet to see one. I've wasted hours, blood and curses trying to force those into tiny holes and finally got sick and tired of it.

Irwin Quick-Grip to the rescue:

54570165531_fbb81929de_o.jpg

Drill a 3/16" hole in each jaw:

54569299742_fb7f8c83ef_o.jpg

insert widget into one of the holes--whichever one gives clearance for the shaft of the Quick-Grip:

54570347824_5ee39657bf_o.jpg

and:

54570391588_1b43aed1f2_o.jpg

a couple of squeezes of the grip later:

54570165506_38bb3ee750_o.jpg

Zero frustration, zero blood, zero cursing. The Quick-Grip still works fine for clamping.
 
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RTM

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Joined
May 13, 2019
Messages
13,053
Location
SF Bay Area
Zero frustration, zero blood, zero cursing. The Quick-Grip still works fine for clamping
When I'm doing end of line fittings I will warm them by dunking in boiling water. that's really hard to do with the big fat main lines out in the yard. Thanks for this.
 
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Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,606
Location
Far NE Oregon
What I'm doing end of line fittings I will warm them by dunking in boiling water. that's really hard to do with the big fat main lines out in the yard. Thanks for this.
I like to fill my Thermos with boiling water when working on this stuff--but that doesn't help for mid-line fittings like this. Using a heat gun or torch will soften the line, which then causes it to collapse when trying to insert the barb fitting.
 

Fix Until Broke

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Joined
Feb 21, 2016
Messages
794
Location
SE Wisconsin
Needed the crevice tool for my vacuum - can't find it.
So a few minutes with a torch, vice, block of wood and some leftover 1-1/2" PVC airline, I've now a new crevice tool.

Only issue thus far is it's a bit heavier and will occasionally leave a white streak on what I'm cleaning (black carpet). I was hopeful that after making this one, the original would come out of hiding a few minutes later, but no such luck.

Crevice Attachment - 1024x611.jpg
 

ararat

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Joined
Dec 27, 2018
Messages
578
Location
Ararat NC
20250725_170346.jpg20250725_170613.jpg
I picked this up recently thinking I found a rare New Britain 3/8 spinner. Turns out it was a New Britain extension attached to a homemade spinner made from an SK extension with the wheel pressed on to it. It looks like it got a lot of use.
 

Stubby1743

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Joined
Jul 16, 2023
Messages
715
Location
UK
DSCF0532R.jpg

My father made this BA thread gauge out of 5/32" brass when he was in the Royal Navy either in the 1930s or just post WW2.

For each size from 0 to 10BA there are clearance and tapping sized holes and a threaded hole.

I have used this tool many times and think of Dad each time.
 

zmotorsports

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Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,308
Location
Northern Utah
Mike, I was hoping you’d post at least a link to your tools here.
This thread is one of my favorites. So many talented people.

Sorry, I didn't post a link, but as you know there are many more pictures of that tool and others on my shop thread.
 
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rslaback

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Jul 24, 2010
Messages
4,061
Location
Westcentral Wisconsin
I bought a set of Subaru wheels to install on my Volkswagen. They both use a 5x100 bolt pattern but the centerbore is 1mm larger on diameter on the VW.

Enter a custom 3D printed bushing for the bearing on my rabbeting router bit.

20251026_003737.jpg

20251026_003732.jpg

Tested it out on a hunk of flat aluminum by zeroing the caliper on the full width and then taking a bite off both sides.

20251026_003611.jpg


20251026_003624.jpg
 

rslaback

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Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
4,061
Location
Westcentral Wisconsin
I bought a set of Subaru wheels to install on my Volkswagen. They both use a 5x100 bolt pattern but the centerbore is 1mm larger on diameter on the VW.

Enter a custom 3D printed bushing for the bearing on my rabbeting router bit.

20251026_003737.jpg

20251026_003732.jpg

Tested it out on a hunk of flat aluminum by zeroing the caliper on the full width and then taking a bite off both sides.

20251026_003611.jpg


20251026_003624.jpg
Works like a charm.

20251027_012505.jpg
 

four.cycle

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Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
28,417
Location
Tacoma, Washington
B & L / B & L International Inc., 1189 Carter Circle, Purvis, MS 39475 / https://blinternational.net/ / est. / "El Brutus Screw Extractor" / patent 4375772 Mar 8 1983 Neil C. Brackett and William W. Kester /

the patent document describes it as "Screw Anchor Screw Removal Device"

not sure how it got the moniker "Johnson Bar" assigned to it.
 

dscheidt

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Apr 26, 2017
Messages
2,880
B & L / B & L International Inc., 1189 Carter Circle, Purvis, MS 39475 / https://blinternational.net/ / est. / "El Brutus Screw Extractor" / patent 4375772 Mar 8 1983 Neil C. Brackett and William W. Kester /

the patent document describes it as "Screw Anchor Screw Removal Device"

not sure how it got the moniker "Johnson Bar" assigned to it.
I’d never heard of the thing before this thread, but it looks like a Johnson bar, so I’d guess that’s where it came from.

A Johnson bar is a lever control, usually with a squeeze locking mechanism. Old machines, tractors, and locomotives are full of them.
 

Firebrick43

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May 12, 2015
Messages
13,971
Location
West central Indiana
I made a El Brutus "Johnson Bar" several years ago. It comes in handy on the road when you don't have shop air and a screw knocker.
We used these to remove stripped or difficult to remove Phillips screws on hueys and cobras which had thousands of screws holding on access panels and floor panels. They were a god send.
 

four.cycle

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Oct 19, 2015
Messages
28,417
Location
Tacoma, Washington
run a Google search for "johnson bar" and you will find that the term is applied to a good number of devices, but the majority of them are large lever-type tools designed to move large heavy objects (like locomotives.)
not a big deal. nomenclature is confusing.
there is a reason that datamp.org sticks with what the item description is on the patent document: "Screw Anchor Screw Removal Device" - but that's not a term you or I would use in normal conversation, any more than we would call a "crowbar" a "Goose-neck wrecking bar".
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,606
Location
Far NE Oregon
run a Google search for "johnson bar" and you will find that the term is applied to a good number of devices, but the majority of them are large lever-type tools designed to move large heavy objects (like locomotives.)
Unlike the Johnson Rod that was always getting twisted on my mother's cars....
 

RTM

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May 13, 2019
Messages
13,053
Location
SF Bay Area
We used these to remove stripped or difficult to remove Phillips screws on hueys and cobras which had thousands of screws holding on access panels and floor panels. They were a god send.
So, what did you attach the "leftmost" end to on a helo? The nearest frame member?

Similarly, how does our OP of this device anchor that left end? See the all threed rods.

Does it thread into an existing threaded hole? If so, seems like you could thrash the threads on the existing hole if not careful.
 
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