Hot Dawg 45K Heater Install
- Thread starter D45
- Start date
naturalgas
Well-known member
matt_i
Well-known member
What I do with the gas pipe is to shut it off and then leave on one or more "pilot light" devices and let that burn up the last available gas in the line.
Then cut it.
Make sure you allow a window of time when the hardware store is open
that way you can get there and back a few times to account for the inevitable parts shortage and/or things that weren't immediately apparent. With the main goal of having heat back on in the house without having to wait until the next day.
I recall as a kid having no water for a day when my Dad was working on a project and got into a parts need outside the window of hours for the hardware store. Of course in those days there was no big box and I think almost everything was closed on Sunday with short or half day hours on Saturday.
Then cut it.
Make sure you allow a window of time when the hardware store is open
that way you can get there and back a few times to account for the inevitable parts shortage and/or things that weren't immediately apparent. With the main goal of having heat back on in the house without having to wait until the next day.I recall as a kid having no water for a day when my Dad was working on a project and got into a parts need outside the window of hours for the hardware store. Of course in those days there was no big box and I think almost everything was closed on Sunday with short or half day hours on Saturday.
sweetk30
Well-known member
I picked up a union, but now I have to find a solution for another issue:
4-1/2" long ******, then the valve, another 4-1/2" long ******, then an elbow........it sits about 3/8" too low (to line up with the 3/4" pipe on the right in the pic)
I think using a 5" long ****** will make it too tall, but I might need to try the longer ****** today
4-1/2" long ******, then the valve, another 4-1/2" long ******, then an elbow........it sits about 3/8" too low (to line up with the 3/4" pipe on the right in the pic)
I think using a 5" long ****** will make it too tall, but I might need to try the longer ****** today
naturalgas
Well-known member
Easily solved.........used a 4-1/2" ******, valve, and a 5" ******........all put together in the garage so I could really crank down on it
It is spot on
Good looking job! You wouldn't have made any money on that install though. Just kidding . [emoji482]
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I am going to shut off the gas tomorrow, and remove the original line that needs to be cut down, for the T fitting to be installed
I bought a pipe plug, so I can I can work as my leisure and turn the gas back on until this last portion of the install is done
Very exciting, hopefully I will be testing for leaks this week and have heat by mid week
I bought a pipe plug, so I can I can work as my leisure and turn the gas back on until this last portion of the install is done
Very exciting, hopefully I will be testing for leaks this week and have heat by mid week
18" ******, to get past the copper water line and to work in a less confined space
I was going to use a 12" ******, but the 18" worked out better
I attached another elbow and bought a 5-1/2" ****** and a T fitting, which I will thread into the eblow (when I shut off the gas to cut the gas line)
I also bought two unions, which I will have to use when re-installing/replacing the cut pipe sections
Then, that's it.......
I was going to use a 12" ******, but the 18" worked out better
I attached another elbow and bought a 5-1/2" ****** and a T fitting, which I will thread into the eblow (when I shut off the gas to cut the gas line)
I also bought two unions, which I will have to use when re-installing/replacing the cut pipe sections
Then, that's it.......
LX-Markham
Well-known member
Been following this thread since I've been installing a 45k Hot Dawg also. Finally got it fired up today! I did the install, the electrical, and the venting, but I had somebody in today to run the gas line and fire it up.
Hope you get yours going soon D45. It's getting cold out there!
Hope you get yours going soon D45. It's getting cold out there!
I had to take a week off of working on it, because of being sick and having a rather crazy work schedule
Tomorrow morning I plan on finishing up the install, in the basement and checking for leaks
Yes, it is getting cold out there...........too cold
So far, my garage has held a temp about 17-20 warmer than the outside temps
Hopefully I can fire up the heater tomorrow afternoon
Tomorrow morning I plan on finishing up the install, in the basement and checking for leaks
Yes, it is getting cold out there...........too cold
So far, my garage has held a temp about 17-20 warmer than the outside temps
Hopefully I can fire up the heater tomorrow afternoon
Up and running........
Cranked the heat up to 75 in the house and shut off the gas at the meter
I ran the stove and dryer to help purge the line and got out the hacksaw
There was still some pressure in the line, because it hissed when it cut through the original 3/4" line, that was about 7' long
I added a 10" ******, union, and another 8" ****** between the original elbow and the new T fitting
The I had the section of ole 3/4" cut and threaded down to 52-3/8", connected it to the union, and used an 8" ****** to connect it to the T
I also picked up some more pipe hangers and one bracket for the 1/2" pipe, that feeds the dyer (it was just dangling in place)
I turned the gas back on, opened the two valves (in the basement and one in the garage) and began to check each joint and fitting for leaks
No leaks so I think I am all good
I plug in the heater and switch the gas valve to on, and turn the tstat to "HEAT"
The green light on the gas valve (inside the heater) is blinking..........6 total in each sequence. Bottom burner will light and shuts right back off within 5 seconds
The blower fan and exhaust fan I can hear (and see)
So I start doing some online research and finally just let the heater run for 20 minutes, just blowing cold air
I believe I just had air in the new line (???), because it then fired all three burners and was throwing heat. Very pleased
It is currently around 23 degrees outside and within 30 minutes my garage was mid 50s and within an hour temps were 65 inside
Here is what I ended up with in the basement:
Cranked the heat up to 75 in the house and shut off the gas at the meter
I ran the stove and dryer to help purge the line and got out the hacksaw
There was still some pressure in the line, because it hissed when it cut through the original 3/4" line, that was about 7' long
I added a 10" ******, union, and another 8" ****** between the original elbow and the new T fitting
The I had the section of ole 3/4" cut and threaded down to 52-3/8", connected it to the union, and used an 8" ****** to connect it to the T
I also picked up some more pipe hangers and one bracket for the 1/2" pipe, that feeds the dyer (it was just dangling in place)
I turned the gas back on, opened the two valves (in the basement and one in the garage) and began to check each joint and fitting for leaks
No leaks so I think I am all good
I plug in the heater and switch the gas valve to on, and turn the tstat to "HEAT"
The green light on the gas valve (inside the heater) is blinking..........6 total in each sequence. Bottom burner will light and shuts right back off within 5 seconds
The blower fan and exhaust fan I can hear (and see)
So I start doing some online research and finally just let the heater run for 20 minutes, just blowing cold air
I believe I just had air in the new line (???), because it then fired all three burners and was throwing heat. Very pleased
It is currently around 23 degrees outside and within 30 minutes my garage was mid 50s and within an hour temps were 65 inside
Here is what I ended up with in the basement:
Prices:
Heater: FREE
B Vent Kit: $63.75
Thermostat: $20.05
Tstat Wire: $8.00
Black Roof Caulk: $6.00
Clear Silicon: $5.00
Ground Wire: $3.00
Plug: $6.00
Black Pipe/Flex Line/Fittings/Dope/Valves/Hangers: $405
Total: $516.80
I was hoping to do it for more near $400, but the quality USA made black iron pipe and USA made black iron fittings really hit me hard. But I felt the added cost and quality was well worth it
I am going to monitor the utility bill and see how the NG consumption is affected
Heater: FREE
B Vent Kit: $63.75
Thermostat: $20.05
Tstat Wire: $8.00
Black Roof Caulk: $6.00
Clear Silicon: $5.00
Ground Wire: $3.00
Plug: $6.00
Black Pipe/Flex Line/Fittings/Dope/Valves/Hangers: $405
Total: $516.80
I was hoping to do it for more near $400, but the quality USA made black iron pipe and USA made black iron fittings really hit me hard. But I felt the added cost and quality was well worth it
I am going to monitor the utility bill and see how the NG consumption is affected
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jhn9840
Well-known member
Congratulations, just done in the nick of time. You got heat and that is all that matters
jhn9840
John
jhn9840
John
sweetk30
Well-known member
matt_i
Well-known member
Looks good, biggest thing is bring your biceps when doing a black pipe install. Fittings are pretty "tough". If you are breaking a sweat you generally won't have any leaks Always good to test for peace of mind.
Always good to test for peace of mind.After some returns and looking through the receipts, I think the figure will be a tad under the above posted price............right around $498 for everything
I can definitely see how having the heater wired into a dedicated switch would be helpful, rather than into a ceiling mounted outlet, like I have
I will see how things go this winter and if its that much of a PITA, its an easy fix
My thermostat has a two position switch, either "HEAT" or "OFF"
I plan on leaving the heater plugged in all the time, and just using the tstat switch.........acceptable or?
I can definitely see how having the heater wired into a dedicated switch would be helpful, rather than into a ceiling mounted outlet, like I have
I will see how things go this winter and if its that much of a PITA, its an easy fix
My thermostat has a two position switch, either "HEAT" or "OFF"
I plan on leaving the heater plugged in all the time, and just using the tstat switch.........acceptable or?
rlitman
Well-known member
I don't see a problem with leaving it plugged in.
matt_i
Well-known member
If you have no icicles hanging off the lower edge of the roof then its my opinion you are probably doing OK in the insulation department. (Usually room to improve but that's a good first check) I can see the difference as I drive around the area I live, usually the older houses are the ones with the icicles hanging off the soffit.
A sectional garage door is always going to be leaky compared to what you'd accept in your house. What i see in my brand new door is the valleys of the "woodgrain" texture that's embossed into the metal skin is the part that's leaking light past the gasket. Its relatively small, but its there. Also consider what your house temp would be if you moved the thermostat to "off" position overnight....
My existing shop is 2x4 walls (fiberglass) with 2x10 ceiling (cellulose), if I ramp it up to 50F air temp then it will hold at or above 40F thru 2-3 days of ~20F outdoor temps. It might do better if I held it at setpoint longer, the 30 tons of iron that's out there is slow to gain thermal inertia.
naturalgas
Well-known member
csp
Well-known member
The temp of the air it's blowing is entirely dependant on how cold the air is when you turn it on. The colder it is to begin with, the less heat you'll feel after it passes by the heat exchanger.
toyotadriver
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2010
- Messages
- 1,586
I have an 80k heating my 30x40x10 shop. When it's 40* in the shop and I turn the heater on, it definitely isn't blowing as warm air as it does when it's 65 degrees in the shop.
I initially thought about adding a second, smaller heater and just tap into the 3/4" line by adding a T fitting
Then I thought, just sell the 45K and buy a larger heater.............which I did
I ended up getting another Hot Dawg, just in the 75,000 BTU version (HD 75AS-0111)
Some comparison specs for the 45K vs the 75K
45K FAN SIZE: 10"
75K FAN SIZE: 14"
45K INPUT: 45,000
45K OUTPUT: 36,000
75K INPUT: 75,000
75K OUTPUT: 60,000
45K HEAT THROW: 27 feet
75K HEAT THROW: 38 feet
45K AMP DRAW: 3.7
75K AMP DRAW: 2.5
The added BTUs and the longer heat throw will be perfect.......hopefully the heater will be here next week
I sold my 45K for $400 and bought a new 75K for $575 shipped......a good price I think, plus I got the initial 45K heater for free
66% increase in BTUs should be perfect and the heater will run less and take less time to heat up the shop!!
Then I thought, just sell the 45K and buy a larger heater.............which I did
I ended up getting another Hot Dawg, just in the 75,000 BTU version (HD 75AS-0111)
Some comparison specs for the 45K vs the 75K
45K FAN SIZE: 10"
75K FAN SIZE: 14"
45K INPUT: 45,000
45K OUTPUT: 36,000
75K INPUT: 75,000
75K OUTPUT: 60,000
45K HEAT THROW: 27 feet
75K HEAT THROW: 38 feet
45K AMP DRAW: 3.7
75K AMP DRAW: 2.5
The added BTUs and the longer heat throw will be perfect.......hopefully the heater will be here next week
I sold my 45K for $400 and bought a new 75K for $575 shipped......a good price I think, plus I got the initial 45K heater for free
66% increase in BTUs should be perfect and the heater will run less and take less time to heat up the shop!!
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Well the new heater is arrived, just need to get some springs for the airflow louvers..........which the selling business said they will order and ship to me for free
The new 75k heater has 5 louvers, compared to the 45k which has 3
It should be a simple swap, just might need to adjust the B-vent somewhat to compensate for the larger overall heater
The flex gas line will easily adjust
This install, I might just hardwire it with the switch on the side of the heater..........rather than the plug-in route I used with my 45k
The one thing I did notice it the larger increase in the rear fan size
What is the transformer looking square on the backside of the fan, the 45k heater did not have this
Neat reference guide and decoder:
The new 75k heater has 5 louvers, compared to the 45k which has 3
It should be a simple swap, just might need to adjust the B-vent somewhat to compensate for the larger overall heater
The flex gas line will easily adjust
This install, I might just hardwire it with the switch on the side of the heater..........rather than the plug-in route I used with my 45k
The one thing I did notice it the larger increase in the rear fan size
What is the transformer looking square on the backside of the fan, the 45k heater did not have this
Neat reference guide and decoder:
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rlitman
Well-known member
sweetk30
Well-known member
when i got my 125k unit these guys were the best price i could find at the time and great to deal with . sold me everything in 1 package deal . heater / exhaust pipe kit .
http://shurailhvac.com/categories/Unit-heaters-/
http://shurailhvac.com/categories/Unit-heaters-/
Those are great prices for sure
The HD 75K I just bought is $650, but they will also charge freight shipping....which could add $100+ on to the price
Mine was shipped via FedEx, as a "Heavy" and "over sized" box, so I am sure it cost a pretty penny to ship this
So, for $575 shipped I am happy with it