Hot Dawg 45K Heater Install

[sweetk30]

when i got mine they said up to 75k was reg ship . 100-up was freight ship .

still couldnt beat that local with my contacts in heat/ac work .

 

[D45]

when i got mine they said up to 75k was reg ship . 100-up was freight ship .

still couldnt beat that local with my contacts in heat/ac work .

Either which way, still good prices.........

Here are my costs then:

Heater: $575.00
B Vent Kit: $63.75
Thermostat: $20.05
Tstat Wire: $8.00
Black Roof Caulk: $6.00
Clear Silicon: $5.00
Ground Wire: $3.00
Plug: $6.00
Black Pipe/Flex Line/Fittings/Dope/Valves/Hangers: $405

Total: $1,091.80

Then, take off the $400 that I sold my old HD 45K for, and the new grand total for the install will be:

$691.80

Not too shabby

 

[D45]

Kudos to Modine.......ordered yesterday and they were delivered today

New springs and louvers installed

 

[D45]

I did notice another difference in the 45K compared to the 75K...........the 75K has a foiled lined looking insulation inside the entire case, behind the louvers

The 45K is just the bare case...........because of the BTU?

 

[D45]

The old one came down with ease.......time to get the new one up in place and slowly work on the electrical for it, along with adjusting the venting

 

[D45]

45K::

75K:

Once I flip it over, the duct work might be pretty close........do I need to do anything inside the heater, like with the gas valves or connections or anything, before or after the flip?

It looks like the vent on the old 45k is towards the bottom and the vent on the new 75k is towards to center of case.......so I might have to swap in a slightly longer piece of b-vent. I think I have a an 18" section in the vent and adding a 24" should work nicely (and cheaply, since I already have a left over piece)

 

[Showkey]

Check the instructions on flipping .............Beacon Morris heaters say flipping is OK with no modifications or changes needed.

 

[D45]

After looking at this link:

http://s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/HD75AS0111-Install.pdf

Turning The Unit 180° (Model Sizes 30-75 Only):
All units are produced at the factory with left-side controls (when looking at the unit). If the installation requires the controls to be on the right side, all heaters - with the exception of the HD/HDB 100 and 125 - can be turned over by following the instructions below.
• By turning the unit 180° from the way it was received from the factory, the sides become opposite, but the front and back remain in the same relative position. The bottom panel now becomes the top panel and vice-versa.
• Remove the access panel, turn it 180°, and re-attach it to the unit so that all the information labels can be read.
• Remove the spring loaded deflector blades, turn them over, replace, and adjust so they are open and in a position to direct the heated air down to the floor.

Looks like it just need to be flipped over and the access panel flipped as well...........then just adjust flip the air louvers as well

It will be exciting to see what a 66% increase in BTU will feel like in 3 months

 

[D45]

Old 45K is down, quick and easy, just remove the flex gas line, some screws for 3" vent and the tstat wiring.......the 45k is much lighter than the 75k, much

Time to swap over the hard pipe/****** and reinstall the sediment trap/drip leg

Then I will mount it first and think about the wiring and how to power it:
1) Keep the same plug-in to a close outlet
2) Hard wire it with a switch/box on the case of the heater

 

[yeldogt]

I heat almost 1800sf w/ 35k propane unit ? -- I use a few 100 gallons. W/ NG -- I can't see that being very expensive maintaining a decent temp all the time?

The reason you don't want to run a heater from cold all the time is because the flue gasses will condense on the inside and rust out the heat exchanger. incoming air under 50 degrees across the outside of the HE will do this.

 

[D45]

What size wire is appropriate to power this heater.....12g or 14g?

 

[D45]

The new heater is up and mounted........gas line hooked up and thermostat wires connected as well

Just need to wire it up and adjust (lengthen) the b-vent

I have a spare b-vent extension from the vent kit, that I did not use to with 45k

I will unfortunately have to remove the clear silicon I used to seal the outside portion of the vent, in order to raise the vent stack up slightly to accommodate the adjustment length at the heater

Should hopefully be able to finish it up next weekend.............and be ready for the cold temps in a few months. So much farther ahead this year with the heater, haha

 

[D45]

Well........the price of the install just went way up, haha

I accidentally knocked over and somehow managed to step on (and crush) the 90 vent elbow

Duravent 3GVL90 90 Degree Elbow

I bought the entire b-vent kit for $63.75........and this elbow is going to set me back $22

I can't find it while looking online at Home Depot or Lowes (for a local pick up today)

Will AmeriVent fit my Duravent??? If so, Menards has them for under $15!

https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...6-c-9462.htm?tid=-3594749911797334377&ipos=16

If not, looks like I need to order one online

 

[D45]

Well the three local big box stores do carry Type B vent, but they do not fit properly and lock in to the Duravent

I even checked Tractor Supply

Looks like I will just order it

I found some flexible metal corrugated jacketed 12/2 for $8 for a 10 foot section....just bought a 90 degree clamp for the back of the heater and a $5 plug

Atleast I can get it wired up and will just have wait for the 3" elbow to be delivered

 

[naturalgas]

Re: Hot Dawg 45K (NOW 75K) Heater Install

Nice looking install


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[D45]

Re: Hot Dawg 45K (NOW 75K) Heater Install

Nice looking install

Thanks, the 90" elbow wont be delivered till Monday, so I will have to do the vent adjustment work the following weekend

I am going to turn on the gas and power it up this week, just to make sure everything works and it fires up and runs

 

[naturalgas]

Re: Hot Dawg 45K (NOW 75K) Heater Install

You only need the B vent going thru a partition or if too close to combustible.


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[D45]

Re: Hot Dawg 45K (NOW 75K) Heater Install

You only need the B vent going thru a partition or if too close to combustible.

Good to know for future reference

The Duravent brand twists and locks into place nicely and for $22ish the vent kit will be all original, again

Looks like it will actually be delivered today, so I can install everything this weekend

Hopefully it goes smoothly.......I just need to loosen both clamps for the vertical stack and them remove the clear silicon on the exposed vent area above the roof

I think removing a 12" section adding in a 2' long section will work nicely

I originally used two of the 24" sections and one of the 12" section

The vent kit originally came with:
(3) 24 in. long pipe lengths
(1) 12 in. pipe length
(1) roof flashing
(1) storm collar
(1) cap
(1) 90° elbow
(1) draft hood connector

 

[D45]

The elbow was delivered today, so after work I installed it

I also removed the 12" straight piece and swapped in a 24" section

Just need to get on the roof tomorrow and remove the old clear silicon and seal it up again

Then I'm in business and ready for winter.......much earlier than last year

 

[D45]

The old silicon came off pretty easily, I moved the storm collar and caulked around the roof flashing and around the storm collar

Temps and weather are good all weekend, so it should set up and cure nicely

I was hoping to sell my old 45k heater for $400, but listed it for $450 on Craigslist and a guy bought it today for my full asking price

Tomorrow I will check for leaks on the section of gas pipe I installed on the 75k

Hopefully it fires up

 

[D45]

Here are my costs then, taken from the original HD 45k install and I added and adjusted what I had to buy for this 75K intall:

Heater: $575.00
B Vent Kit: $63.75
New B-Vent Elbow: $23.80
Thermostat: $20.05
Tstat Wire: $8.00
Black Roof Caulk: $6.00
Clear Silicon: $10.00 (2 tubes, one for each install)
Wiring & Flexible Conduit: $15.00
Plug: $12.00 (1 for each heater)
Black Pipe/Flex Line/Fittings/Dope/Valves/Hangers: $405

Total: $1,130.60

Then, take off the $450 that I sold my old HD 45K for, and the new grand total for the install will be:

$680.60



Not too shabby

 

[Kewadiak]

looks good I just installed the same unit! how many gallons of propane did you use with your 45K. What size is your garage and is in insulated? I just installed mine in my pole building that's 24X40x12 insulated all around with 1 inch foam board. I'm wondering how much propane I will go through to keep my garage heated to 50 all winter. I live in northeast pa so winters aren't that bad. I will see

 

[D45]

I have natural gas, not propane.......

Walls and two garage doors are insulated

1,000 sqaure feet

 

[D45]

Turned the gas valve on in the basement, which feeds the line to the shop

Turned the gas valve on in the shop, which is solely for the heater

I used gas leak detector spray on all the threads...........ONE LEAK

The leak was where the flex appliance line goes into the flare fitting. Odd, wasn't a leak here last year with the 45K heater

I did some research online and say to always use tape/dope on the threads on the flare fittings..........some say never.

I just had bare thread to thread contact on the flare fitting to the flex line

I turned the valve off and too the flex line off the flare fitting...........I used some tape and some dope and tightened it down, again

The leak was now gone.........all good and no bubbles

It was 90 degrees outside today, so I will wait till the temps drop a tad before firing up the heater and making sure its working properly

Just odd about the one single leak. Oh well

 

[yeldogt]

The actual flare fitting should not require anything -- it uses the mating surface. Clean and retighten .............. High pressure HVAC uses a sealant on the CU flares.

Naturally -- the threaded ends to the pipes need something

 

[naturalgas]

Re: Hot Dawg 45K (NOW 75K) Heater Install

Right ,no dope or tape on flex line fitting. Usually replace flex with new installations.



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[D45]

Here's the flex line I went with:

Time to shop online I guess

I think I paid $30 locally for this flex line

Looks like i can buy a new one online for under $15 shipped

Why are they one use only???

 

[rlitman]

...Why are they one use only???

Well, because, flare fittings are kind of a crush fitting. With copper tubing, single flare ends are used, because the soft metal crushes easily and easily forms itself to the shape of the seat. Stainless steel however (the material that the corrugated flex hose is made from) does not crush and form easily, so a double flare is used instead, like on a brake line:

In this case, the gap between the two folded pieces of stainless is what lets the stainless take the shape of the conical seat and form a seal. It works like the crush washer on a spark plug.

So, can it be re-used? If it looks good, sure. But after the first use, it will probably require a little more torque to get a good seal, because it is somewhat crushed already.

When should it not be re-used? Well, any corrugated flex line that looks like stainless should be discarded. The yellow plastic coating was a requirement that came out after it was discovered that corrosion was causing pits that could leak gas from the stainless. Aside from that, use your best judgement.

 

[D45]

Yeah, I realize the internal joint is like a soft(er) metal crush cone

I guess since I needed some pipe dope on the flare fitting's threads to seal it up, means that the flare is no longer seating properly

I will remove the flex line and buy a new one........for under $15 that's a good call

Now here is my question............can I just buy a flex line or do I need to replace the fittings with it?

A new flex line is cheaper (and saves a few minutes of install)........or do I need to replace the flex line and fittings?????????

 

[D45]

Yeah, I realize the internal joint is like a soft(er) metal crush cone

I guess since I needed some pipe dope on the flare fitting's threads to seal it up, means that the flare is no longer seating properly

I will remove the flex line and buy a new one........for under $15 that's a good call

Now here is my question............can I just buy a flex line or do I need to replace the fittings with it?

A new flex line is cheaper (and saves a few minutes of install)........or do I need to replace the flex line and fittings?????????

 

[D45]

Some use it, some don't

https://www.plbg.com/forum/read.php?1,305708

Either which way, for $15 I guess I will throw another flex line on

 

[rlitman]

If it make you feel happier, then go ahead, but my though is that if it isn't leaking now that you've got it right, it won't just start.

Because of the crush feature, they usually tighten and seal more easily the first time, but I wouldn't get all worked up about it. And the conical seat shouldn't be deformed by the crushing. If it has a burr, then that would certainly be cause for disposal, but that shouldn't happen unless it were abused somehow before assembly.

Anyway, gas flare fittings are standardized in size. It's not like a union, where the two sides of the seat are mated at the factory. You absolutely can re-use the fittings.

As for dope, it shouldn't be a problem. In high pressure stainless flare fittings, a conical crush washer is often used between the stainless to stainless interface (such as in the CO2 flares used on soda fountains). Dope is just performing that duty in your case.

 

[naturalgas]

Re: Hot Dawg 45K (NOW 75K) Heater Install

Fittings will come with it


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[yeldogt]

Since it's a mating surface -- it's a full assembly.

People over tighten. I always install a new one with a new appliance. If I have to open one up on one I installed -- say when I have to move a dryer -- I reuse it if it's not that old. I know it was not overtightened.

I have had them leak -- So, I don't reuse one I did not install .. or if it's older.

 

[rlitman]

Fittings will come with it

They should, though not every one comes with every fitting you might need. For example, if you needed a 1/2" gas flare to fit on a 3/4" pipe, that comes with some kits, but not others. And if you have a 3/8" pipe (for really low BTU applications), you may still need to buy the adapter.

Also, it may take rooting through to the back of the shelf to find a bag that has not been ripped open with the fittings removed.

Since it's a mating surface -- it's a full assembly...

No, they are not a full assembly, and they most certainly are not mated at the factory. Gas flares are completely standardized, and are sold separately. Many flex line kits will come with an assortment of fittings, in case you had different sized pipes. Some are sold a la carte.

As I said, they are crush fittings, so they mate when you first install them.

 

[csp]

Since it's a mating surface -- it's a full assembly.

No it isn't. These aren't lapped together so that one part only fits one other part.

As rlitman said, if there isn't a leak now, one isn't going to form out of thin air.

 

[naturalgas]

Re: Hot Dawg 45K (NOW 75K) Heater Install

Go to a plumbing supply house. You will get both complete ends of any flex line



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[D45]

I used larger/longer crescent wrenches and cinched it down a tad more, I think I am good

I will check for leaks again in two months when I need the heat

 

[D45]

Temps are getting down to the low 30 here already....I think it is supposed to dip down to 29 degrees for the low a few nights this week......the garage is still warm, last night it was still in the mid 50s

Time to turn the gas valves on in the basement and in the garage.........and fire up the newly installed heater

HOPE IT WORKS!

 

[D45]

It is up and running.....a tad louder than the old 45k, probably due to the larger blower fan, but nothing bad at all