Hot Dawg 45K Heater Install
- Thread starter D45
- Start date
So, I manually reset both the upper and lower flame rollout switches.........by pressing in the little red pin
The heater fired up and ran for about 3 minutes, before shutting down and showing 3 Flashes on the green light, as before
I reset the flame roll out switches, and it ran gain, but eventually turned off
This video says to flip the black/black wires and the white/white wires to make them black/white and black/white......hmmmmmm
The heater fired up and ran for about 3 minutes, before shutting down and showing 3 Flashes on the green light, as before
I reset the flame roll out switches, and it ran gain, but eventually turned off
This video says to flip the black/black wires and the white/white wires to make them black/white and black/white......hmmmmmm
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bobbyjean
Well-known member
the unit rollout switches are tripping? so ....is the unit fan running....is the unit set up for the proper fuel lp/natural gas...if possible take the gas ****...you should have installed near unit and close it down to 30% and retry...do a visual check of flame pattern then open valve fully...there is an adjustment screw on gas valve inlet..you can get it close by eye but may need a gas pressure test kit to do it
flame should travel smoothly across tubes on startup...then should be of a concentric shape while flowing in each tube....no flame should be backing out of any of the tube"s (burner) ...chimney blockage would be a usual check but...this is a new install so....check it anyway...good luck with it
flame should travel smoothly across tubes on startup...then should be of a concentric shape while flowing in each tube....no flame should be backing out of any of the tube"s (burner) ...chimney blockage would be a usual check but...this is a new install so....check it anyway...good luck with it
rookie1901
New member
subscribed
Can you clarify what you mean? I have a LPG 75k that works fine but I want to cross check because my gas guy is hardly ever available.
To rule out the tstat, I installed a jumper wire for the tstat in the panel........same thing, shut down in about 3-4 minutes
I then rewired the tstat wires like it should be and moved on
While it was flashing 3 codes...........I manually pressed the bottom flame rollout sensor with a long screw driver. No change, still flashing
I then manually pressed the top flame rollout sensor and it fired back up, but in 3 minutes the heater shut down and the 3 flash code was back
I then removed the two wires from the top flame rollout sensor and installed a jumper wire.........the heater ran for 15 minutes without any issue
SO, would this obviously mean that the top flame rollout sensor is bad? For $20-$25 should I order a new sensor and only replace the top one?
Would it be a good to mark the top one with a black marker......and flip the top and bottom flame rollout sensors and see what happens?
Any ideas or suggestions?
Jumper wire
I then rewired the tstat wires like it should be and moved on
While it was flashing 3 codes...........I manually pressed the bottom flame rollout sensor with a long screw driver. No change, still flashing
I then manually pressed the top flame rollout sensor and it fired back up, but in 3 minutes the heater shut down and the 3 flash code was back
I then removed the two wires from the top flame rollout sensor and installed a jumper wire.........the heater ran for 15 minutes without any issue
SO, would this obviously mean that the top flame rollout sensor is bad? For $20-$25 should I order a new sensor and only replace the top one?
Would it be a good to mark the top one with a black marker......and flip the top and bottom flame rollout sensors and see what happens?
Any ideas or suggestions?
Jumper wire
I read a lot and researched a lot today........
Some say just unplug the top flame rollout sensor and don't worry about it.......meh
Some say to adjust the gas flow down alittle, on the valve......maybe
Then I found this GJ posting:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27597&highlight=flame+rollout&page=2
"Here is the fix..... Basically you take out the top burner and pinch shut the top fan (I used a vise). The bottom fan on the top bruner is still required for lighting. I'll try and post the pic when I get a moment.
From Mr. Heater:
The Big Maxx unit heaters have one or two roll out sensors and one high limit sensor heat exchanger to monitor over heating or flame blowing back into the burner box.
A common problem on these units is the LED on the circuit board giving a 4-flash code ‘High limit or rollout switch open’. The problem that causes this is that the burners that the flame comes out of, are designed to overlap their gas so as the bottom burner lights up the gas and flame hit the gas from the burner right above it. So each burner lights up one after the other. The top burner doesn’t have a burner above it to light up but the gas and flame still comes out. This little extra flame hits the heat exchanger tube before being sucked down into the tube. This flame than causes the upper mounted rollout heat sensor to go off and the heater shuts down. You can reset this rollout heat sensor with the little reset button that is located between the wires that plug into the back of it. It is located at the top of the burner assembly behind but not on the circuit board.
To fix this problem, you will need to remove the top burner and pinch together its edges per the pictures below. Remove the burner side plate, than remove the two screws that hold the burner in place and pinch or hammer the top edge, just above the center hole to stop this extra gas path
Some say just unplug the top flame rollout sensor and don't worry about it.......meh
Some say to adjust the gas flow down alittle, on the valve......maybe
Then I found this GJ posting:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27597&highlight=flame+rollout&page=2
"Here is the fix..... Basically you take out the top burner and pinch shut the top fan (I used a vise). The bottom fan on the top bruner is still required for lighting. I'll try and post the pic when I get a moment.
From Mr. Heater:
The Big Maxx unit heaters have one or two roll out sensors and one high limit sensor heat exchanger to monitor over heating or flame blowing back into the burner box.
A common problem on these units is the LED on the circuit board giving a 4-flash code ‘High limit or rollout switch open’. The problem that causes this is that the burners that the flame comes out of, are designed to overlap their gas so as the bottom burner lights up the gas and flame hit the gas from the burner right above it. So each burner lights up one after the other. The top burner doesn’t have a burner above it to light up but the gas and flame still comes out. This little extra flame hits the heat exchanger tube before being sucked down into the tube. This flame than causes the upper mounted rollout heat sensor to go off and the heater shuts down. You can reset this rollout heat sensor with the little reset button that is located between the wires that plug into the back of it. It is located at the top of the burner assembly behind but not on the circuit board.
To fix this problem, you will need to remove the top burner and pinch together its edges per the pictures below. Remove the burner side plate, than remove the two screws that hold the burner in place and pinch or hammer the top edge, just above the center hole to stop this extra gas path
The fix makes sense.
Interesting they don’t do the “fix” at the factory ........as they know there is an issue ?? The posted link goes back years. Wonder if too high of gas pressure is the real root cause.
Interesting they don’t do the “fix” at the factory ........as they know there is an issue ?? The posted link goes back years. Wonder if too high of gas pressure is the real root cause.
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Well I also watched some video on YouTube about this issue......but with a Big Maxx heater (75k also)
After this video, I went out an used my temp gun on the upper and lower flame rollout switches
After the heater was running for 2-3 minutes, just prior to shut down, the upper switch was 80+ degrees warmer than the bottom switch
I believe these switches trip at 235? This is right around the temp for the upper switch
After this video, I went out an used my temp gun on the upper and lower flame rollout switches
After the heater was running for 2-3 minutes, just prior to shut down, the upper switch was 80+ degrees warmer than the bottom switch
I believe these switches trip at 235? This is right around the temp for the upper switch
IT IS FIXED...............Read along
Using that link and the PDF file for the Big Maxx, I fixed it in about an hours time
The burners are all same, but the top one does not need to open pinch, so the flames can "leak" upwards and help to ignite another burner
The top burner does need to be pinched closed and I used my vise. I was going to JB Weld it, but was concerned it would not hold up to the heat, so I welded the top portion closed
I used my temp gun and now the top and bottom flame rollout switches both read within 10 degrees of each other and the top switch is 80 degree COOLER
The end of the burner was pinched and welded shut, and another small gap on the top was also pinched closed and welded
Here is the bottom burner......again, they are all the same. See the small flame rollout on the bottom, this rollout was larger on the top most burner and I think the fan was hitting this area, blowing the flame back towards the switch
See the nasty booger welds sealing it all shut, HAHAHA
The world is a better place
I put the front and side cover back on and reinstalled the air louvers
The heater fired up and ran without issue for over 30 minutes
Using that link and the PDF file for the Big Maxx, I fixed it in about an hours time
The burners are all same, but the top one does not need to open pinch, so the flames can "leak" upwards and help to ignite another burner
The top burner does need to be pinched closed and I used my vise. I was going to JB Weld it, but was concerned it would not hold up to the heat, so I welded the top portion closed
I used my temp gun and now the top and bottom flame rollout switches both read within 10 degrees of each other and the top switch is 80 degree COOLER
The end of the burner was pinched and welded shut, and another small gap on the top was also pinched closed and welded
Here is the bottom burner......again, they are all the same. See the small flame rollout on the bottom, this rollout was larger on the top most burner and I think the fan was hitting this area, blowing the flame back towards the switch
See the nasty booger welds sealing it all shut, HAHAHA
The world is a better place
I put the front and side cover back on and reinstalled the air louvers
The heater fired up and ran without issue for over 30 minutes
danbuff
Well-known member
wow, nice fix! good troubleshooting.
From my calculations, the heater is running for around 9 minutes and shutting off for 9 minutes.......pretty much like clockwork
Normal or too much?
The outside temps were around 32 degrees today
I think I am going to try to test the WC pressure on the valve, just to make sure it is adjusted accurately
Normal or too much?
The outside temps were around 32 degrees today
I think I am going to try to test the WC pressure on the valve, just to make sure it is adjusted accurately
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AldeanFan
Well-known member
Re: Hot Dawg 45K (NOW 75K) Heater Install
That’s a lot more than mine cycles,
I changed the cycle time on my thermostat so it will only run 3 times per hour.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That’s a lot more than mine cycles,
I changed the cycle time on my thermostat so it will only run 3 times per hour.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
bobbyjean
Well-known member
nice fix....you are the r/d department on this one.... i never agreed with the flipping of the unit 180 degree's and leaving gas valve upside down...but that's another story
mrramsey
Well-known member
The roll out sensors tripped on mine Friday. I reset them and it fired fine. Since I didn't install it the tech is coming out today to check it out. My unit is also installed flipped 180. it cycles maybe once every few hours. currently it is 28 degrees.
It is currently 15 degrees outside and the garage is at 40 degrees
The heater was off all day, so the garage is holding some heat
I put the heater on and within 45 minutes the temp is up to a comfy 60 degrees
The temps are supposed to drop hard tonight and I will be curious to see how much the temps fall inside the garage by 7am
The heater was off all day, so the garage is holding some heat
I put the heater on and within 45 minutes the temp is up to a comfy 60 degrees
The temps are supposed to drop hard tonight and I will be curious to see how much the temps fall inside the garage by 7am
Well, it's not here, yet. Once I get the shop finished I can bring her home from Illinois. Was my first car, and belonged to both of my older brothers before me. A sane person would part it out, but I can't let it go.
pcampbell
Well-known member
How do you guys feel about Hot Dawg Vs Effinity , Effinity is probably $1000+ more expensive but 13% more efficient. The Effinity will probably save $200 in propane a year. I feel a little better about the Effinity not sucking in fumes for combustion but maybe it is no factor. Garage will be tight by garage standards. 2 new garage doors and spray foam all around.
Propane is expensive, and the heater should last more than 5 years. how long will you be there?
I would've saved $50 in gas last month alone if I had a 95% furnace instead of my 80%.