How deep should I make my cabinets?
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SteelArt
Well-known member
Take into account the height and how far you can reach. My rule of thumb is waist height and under 600mm deep, waist height and above 300mm deep.
Falcon67
Well-known member
I would go 12" top and 18" panrty. 24 is OK, but you'll end up with lotsa **** in the back after a while.
Scout Driver
Well-known member
Falcon67 is correct. It works the same way as in a kitchen. You go to clean out a cupboard and in the back are stale crackers and rock hard gummy bears.
Scott
Scout Driver
Well-known member
Between the young'un and me, Gummies don't stand a chance to go stale.
Doublestuff Oreo cookies don't stand a chance around me!
Are your wall cabinets going to be above a workbench? If so, I wouldn't build them over 12" deep. 8" deep cabinets are actually pretty handy for everyday essentials. Nothing has a chance to become hidden or pushed to the back.
Post some "in progress" pictures and some completed ones as well.
Scott
They will be above the workbench in one spot, and free 'standing' in other areas.
My neighbors have been wondering what the heck I'm going to use the 20 4' twin tube flourescents in my garage for. They're to prevent me from cutting off my fingers!
My neighbors have been wondering what the heck I'm going to use the 20 4' twin tube flourescents in my garage for. They're to prevent me from cutting off my fingers!
I'm a huge fan of making cabinets and benches to your custom size.
I've 14' of 16" deep wall cabinets.
I'm looking at making another wall of 14' of wall cabinets, but this time at 24" deep.
I've a lot of large tools, and parts.
I'm also looking at making a couple at 6" deep on another wall for smaller stuff.
So in the end, it all depends what you are going to store in the cabinets.
I've 14' of 16" deep wall cabinets.
I'm looking at making another wall of 14' of wall cabinets, but this time at 24" deep.
I've a lot of large tools, and parts.
I'm also looking at making a couple at 6" deep on another wall for smaller stuff.
So in the end, it all depends what you are going to store in the cabinets.
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My cabinets are usually 24" deep up to about six feet off the ground. Above that, they actually get deeper, since it's longer term storage and I'm not going to bump it with my head.
I would think that going 36" deep means you're going to lose a lot of stuff in the back. But it depends on the design.
I would think that going 36" deep means you're going to lose a lot of stuff in the back. But it depends on the design.
Greatbear
Well-known member
I have a couple 24 inch deep 6' high freestanding cabinets, as well as 24+ inch short cabinets and drawer cabs under my workbenches. They come in handy for storing my tools that come in long kitboxes (think sawzall and portaband boxes, larger saw and other power tool carry cases, and the like), and other deep or long items. Granted, sometimes the depth can be a shortcoming, but I arrange items to make best use of the various storage spots. Most of my freestanding cabinets are 18" deep, and overheads are mostly 12". Depending on how the cabinets are located, installing cabinets greater than 12" deep overhead might be asking for a bump-a on the noggin-a.
SteelArt
Well-known member
I just bought a heap of these :
They are 900mm long 400mm high and 300mm deep metal cabinets. Worked a treat and I find the size to work well.
They are 900mm long 400mm high and 300mm deep metal cabinets. Worked a treat and I find the size to work well.
The best use of your wood would be 23 7/8" deep cabinets. If you have a rabbit on the back to inset the back panel you loss another 1/2" or so. Overlay front door panels or inset or add on face frame? You might loss more depth or pick up a little bit.
My point is, figure out what you are going to store inside the cabinet and build them that size. If you are going to use some type of storage bin, get them now and measure. If you are going to put in drawers, figure out the slide length you will need. They mostly come in 2" increments.
I have a Sawzall case that is 24 1/2" long, and the door on my 24" base cabinet just does not close all the way. I could turn it sideways but than stuff gets put in front of it and a pain to get to.
I have metal 12" deep wall cabinets and the plastic bins I purchase for some of the small stuff are 12" long, but the 12" deep is outside, the doors fit inside the cabinet. I had to cut the front section off the plastic bins to get them to fit.
Spend some time looking at all the stuff you need to store and build deep enough for it.
I agree that a 36" deep cabinet will tend to loss your stuff in the back. But, you may want 1 that deep and the rest a different size. 36" wide or more counter top will be nice.
Kevin
My point is, figure out what you are going to store inside the cabinet and build them that size. If you are going to use some type of storage bin, get them now and measure. If you are going to put in drawers, figure out the slide length you will need. They mostly come in 2" increments.
I have a Sawzall case that is 24 1/2" long, and the door on my 24" base cabinet just does not close all the way. I could turn it sideways but than stuff gets put in front of it and a pain to get to.
I have metal 12" deep wall cabinets and the plastic bins I purchase for some of the small stuff are 12" long, but the 12" deep is outside, the doors fit inside the cabinet. I had to cut the front section off the plastic bins to get them to fit.
Spend some time looking at all the stuff you need to store and build deep enough for it.
I agree that a 36" deep cabinet will tend to loss your stuff in the back. But, you may want 1 that deep and the rest a different size. 36" wide or more counter top will be nice.
Kevin
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I am a fan of shallow ones.
As said things get lost behind other things.
If you can discipline your self to everything in totes that are well labeled, then whatever size the totes are.
Since I use 5 gal pails and milk crates I never go over 14 inches deep.
Most often 12.
As said things get lost behind other things.
If you can discipline your self to everything in totes that are well labeled, then whatever size the totes are.
Since I use 5 gal pails and milk crates I never go over 14 inches deep.
Most often 12.
jeffhay
Well-known member
A 1 gallon paint can is 7", so I'd say 14" for the cabinet.
I'd make the upper ones shallower than the bottom ones. But that is just me.
I would take into consideration what you plan on storing. You could some of the bottom cabinets deeper than the others taking into account what you're going to store.
I would take into consideration what you plan on storing. You could some of the bottom cabinets deeper than the others taking into account what you're going to store.
I ended up making the wall cabinets 12" deep (11.75" plywood and .25" x.75" trim on the face) and 24" deep (23.75" and .25" x .75" trim) for the 'pantry' cabinets.
Attachments
Here are more pics.
The cabinet doors will be assembled once I get these units made and in position (I need floor space!!!!)
This has been alot of fun though. I've spent $625 in materials (Home Depot has a sale on 3/4 AC cabinet grade plywood and I purchased 25 sheets) so far. I'll ultimately end up with
2 - 36 x 12 x36
2 - 18 x 12 x 36
1 - 36 x 12 x 12
1 - 15 x 12 x 36
1 - 36 x 12 x 18
2 - 36 x 24 x 94.5
1 - 24 x 24 x 94.5
2 - 36 x 36 x 94.5
1 - 24 x 36 x 94.5
The cabinet doors will be assembled once I get these units made and in position (I need floor space!!!!)
This has been alot of fun though. I've spent $625 in materials (Home Depot has a sale on 3/4 AC cabinet grade plywood and I purchased 25 sheets) so far. I'll ultimately end up with
2 - 36 x 12 x36
2 - 18 x 12 x 36
1 - 36 x 12 x 12
1 - 15 x 12 x 36
1 - 36 x 12 x 18
2 - 36 x 24 x 94.5
1 - 24 x 24 x 94.5
2 - 36 x 36 x 94.5
1 - 24 x 36 x 94.5
Attachments
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Interex
Well-known member
I built these at 18" deep. It's perfect and fits just about every large tool case that I've got. Still need to add my doors but I'll do that after paint:
JC23
Well-known member
Looks like you're already on your way. All of the above input is A-Duke but the key might just be the width or depth of your workbench. If you have a 36 inch deep (as you are standing up to it) bench, you might have touble getting to the back of some of the cabinets. It's all about reach and having/not having to use a ladder to get to the stuff in the back.
There are many combos that will work. Let us see what you end up with.
There are many combos that will work. Let us see what you end up with.
Interex
Well-known member
haha, use IMG tags linked to a photo website instead of uploading as an attachment.
I love the cabinets and can't wait to get everything hidden away. The Garage Gallery has provided me with quite a bit of inspiration. I've always worked in garages with standard shelves and was more than happy with it. After seeing garages with everything stored in cabinets, I was hooked!
I'm looking at things like this for the really high wall cabinets, but I've got to find a less expensive alternative.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10842
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10842
I built these at 18" deep. It's perfect and fits just about every large tool case that I've got. Still need to add my doors but I'll do that after paint:
Where did you get the shelf adjuster in the cabinet that you made?
Thanks,
Gary
csp
Well-known member
The big box hardware stores (Lowes/Menards/Home Depot) all sell those adjustable shelf brackets.
Interex
Well-known member
Yep, they sell it in 6 foot strips that you can simply cut up to the sizes that you need. You can find them in the home organization/shelving aisle. $4/strip + a bag of the clips for $3 and you're set.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_107819-4688..._prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1
djjsr
Well-known member
Just my preference, I like shallow cabinets so I can see everything at a glance and don't have to look behind stuff. This cabinet is 9 1/2" deep with 8" deep shelves.
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Interex
Well-known member
^^That's nice!
Interex
Well-known member
I'm planning on using bins like these to help with organization and not allowing things to get lost in the back of the cabinets:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200066824_200066824
The one above is 17 7/8" deep so it's perfect for my 18" deep cabinets. They also sell them in a number of other depths and widths.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200066824_200066824
The one above is 17 7/8" deep so it's perfect for my 18" deep cabinets. They also sell them in a number of other depths and widths.
I'm planning on using bins like these to help with organization and not allowing things to get lost in the back of the cabinets:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200066824_200066824
The one above is 17 7/8" deep so it's perfect for my 18" deep cabinets. They also sell them in a number of other depths and widths.
I like those divider slots. I've been using some boxes by Bosch that I've had for a decade that are cardboard and have the movable partitions. I think I may have to upgrade!
bww_mnm
Well-known member
Just my preference, I like shallow cabinets so I can see everything at a glance and don't have to look behind stuff. This cabinet is 9 1/2" deep with 8" deep shelves.
I like the cabinets, but the big doors seem to waste a lot of space out front. Did you consider sliding doors? I ask because I'd like to build something similar for "garden tool" (rakes, shovels, etc) storage. I hate seeing it on the wall.
djjsr
Well-known member
The first big cabinet I built had sliding doors and I didn't like it. I prefer being able to open both doors and see everything inside. With sliding doors, you only see half, one side or the other. Just my preference.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I seen this before and the more I see it the better I like the idea
For ones that might not know, Lowes carries those doors for around $20 a door. The doiors come in at 24" up to 36" IIRC. I just had to buy one the other day. Not a bad price at all. So for less than $100 you can have a hell of a large cabinet thdewey
Well-known member
I made a mix of cabinets some shallow and some deep for tool cases and the like.
Here are my build threads.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86491
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50978
Here are my build threads.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86491
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50978
djjsr
Well-known member
So for less than $100 you can have a hell of a large cabinet
I started looking at the cost per square foot of shelf space. I have only one Craftsman wall cabinet that my wife got for me and it was around $120 on sale. It's only 4 sq ft of shelf space, so that's $30 per sq ft.
This particular cabinet that I built has about 25 sq ft of shelf space. At $30 per sq ft, that's $750. You could easily build it for $150, much less if you get materials on sale. That's $6 per sq ft.
birdman1
Well-known member
You build a cabinet for the articles you wish to store in it. Usually 12" deep wall and 24" deep base cabinets. Base height is 36"
Mike
Mike
bww_mnm
Well-known member
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I may have to give this one a try.
Sidekick
Well-known member
Go to a used building material store and you can find hinges, euro hinges, drawer glides and tons of other usable stuff for a fraction of new. I built my whole garage from garage sale finds and reused material for under 800.00. Works great for me- the guy with an empty wallet but big dreams.
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