how Hard is it to solder copper tubes

[metlmunchr]

What do they call 3/4" copper pipe?

They call it 3/4 copper tubing since that's what it is and that's what the manufacturers call it. It is not pipe. The word pipe implies a specific set of outside diameters. For example, 3/4 pipe implies an OD of 1.050" Doesn't matter if its mild steel, alloy steel, brass, any of of several grades of aluminum, inconel, titanium, pvc, or any of a number of other materials including "iron pipe" as the home center cowboys call it even though iron pipe hasn't been produced since the late 50's when A M Byers discontinued its production. If its sold as 3/4 pipe then the OD is 1.050". To my knowledge, no one makes actual copper pipe.

Do you have some logical explanation of why manufacturers would adhere to industry standards specifying OD regardless of material type for pipe, and yet decide to ignore those standards for copper and call it pipe when its OD doesn't conform to the standards? Hint..... They don't. They call it tubing.

The only common "pipe" that doesn't conform to OD dimensional standards is CPVC. That's done to prevent inadvertent mixing of CPVC and PVC in situations where PVC would fail, such as excess temperature.

Re your claim that there's some magic situation where ID is pipe and OD is tubing, that's another load of ****. Pipe up thru 12" nominal has an ID approximately equal to the nominal size, but 14" and larger pipe has an OD equal to the specified size and an ID substantially smaller, depending on wall thickness. Yet the manufacturers don't refer to 14" and up pipe as tubing even though its specified by OD.

Take a look at this tech info sheet from Mueller and see if there's anywhere they refer to any standards for "copper pipe". http://www.muellerindustries.com/uploads/pdf/Copper Tube Standards.pdf

How do they refer to 1/2" tubing and compression fittings with 1/2" ID to fit that tubing size? Compression fittings are called out in the ID of the fitting, which is the OD of the tubing they fit.

I'm fairly sure any competent fitter knows the OD of 1/2 copper tube is 5/8 and that he'd need 5/8 compression fittings. But I'm sure there's also plenty of people who wouldn't know that. Perhaps those people should call someone who does know the trade and the sizes of common materials, or, alternatively, they could measure the OD of the tubing since its fairly obvious that's the part of the tube that's going into the fitting.

Do they call 1/2" copper sweat fittings 5/8" fittings, or 1/2" copper pipe fittings?

Most of the hundreds of boxes of fittings I've bought over the years are marked with both nominal size and OD size. However, I've never seen any of them marked as "copper pipe fittings", regardless of size.

The point being, it doesn't matter what the box store crowd calls it. The manufacturers call it tubing. The trade calls it tubing. And the wholesalers call it tubing. Homeowner oriented websites likely call it pipe because the stores figure that will make it easier for their customers to find it.

Yep, I was at the tire store the other day and sure enough, they had round things with holes in them. " Pipes", I guess. So I bought some rubber "pipes" for my truck. Then on the way home I stopped at Tractor Supply for some nuts and bolts. Turns out the washers are called "pipes" now 'cause they are round with holes. So I got some "pipes" and nuts and bolts. Then we went shooting and made some "pipes" ourselves from round targets. Maybe I'll plumb the house with a stack of those round things that we used to call donuts. Yep, round with holes in them, same as water pipes 'fur as I can tell.

Your posts in this thread already indicate a fairly thorough ignorance of the subject without any need for extra effort.

 

[Northislander]

I think maybe one of the larger copper tube manufacturer can settle this a quote from there site:
Great Lakes Copper Ltd. manufactures a complete line of copper plumbing tube in types K, L, M, DWV and G/Gas for residential, commercial and specialty applications; in standard industry diameters; supplied in coil or straight length forms. Each tube is fabricated to meet the highest industry standards.
Tube Type Standard Application Temper Hard Temper
Soft
Type K ASTM
B88 Domestic water service and distribution, solar, fuel/fuel oil, natural gas, liquefied petroleum (LP) gas, snow melting x x
Type L ASTM
B88 Domestic water service and distribution, solar, Fuel/fuel oil, natural gas, liquefied petroleum (LP) gas, Snow melting x x
TYPE M ASTM
B88 Domestic water service and distribution, solar, Compressed air x N/A
Type DWV ASTM
B-306 Drainage waste, vent x x
Type G/Gas ASTM
B-837 Natural gas, liquefied petroleum (LP) gas x x
General Purpose ASTM
B75 Supply Line/Retail x x

Seamless copper water tube (Alloy C12200) is certified by NSF to ANSI/NS Standard 61 for public water supplies. Water supplies with a pH level less than 6.5 may require corrosion control to limit the copper solubility in drinking water.
Great Lakes Copper Ltd. third-party certified tube is manufactured to meet all requirements of the current revision to the applicable American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) specification. ASTM dimensions, and if necessary, weight tolerances are available upon request.

Residential

For portable water systems or servicing the residential fuel and gas industries, Great Lakes Copper Ltd. manufactures the right tube for all residential applications.

Commercial

Large and small diameter copper tube for various applications is readily available. Great Lakes Copper Ltd. manufactures all tube to meet exact standards and specifications.

 

[ez-duzit]

...I'm fairly sure any competent fitter knows the OD of 1/2 copper tube is 5/8...

The OD of 1/2" copper tubing is 1/2". The ID of copper pipe is 1/2".

 

[Trey T]

easy to solder/braze copper tube/pipe .. as long as you understand a few things:

1. heat range of torches (propane or acetylene)
2. melting point of filler metals
3. strength of copper joint of different filler metals
4. heat copper joint (male and female) to minimum temp to melt filler metal

 

[86turbodsl]

Copper pipes soldering is easy.
Stakes are low as you are not trying to plumb water inside walls.


Now Brazing of ACR tubing is harder and require special tools to expand the the tubing to fit one in.

Can you expand on this a bit? I've never had to expand the tubing while brazing copper. I typically use Silphos15 for copper brazing.

 

[raspy]

The OD of 1/2" copper tubing is 1/2". The ID of copper pipe is 1/2".

Yes. But for some reason that fact seems very hard for some to acknowledge.

It's perfectly OK with me to call 3/4" copper pipe, 7/8" copper tubing. That is what it is. But if someone wants to order some fittings for "3/4 copper" from Ferguson, for instance, they'll likely get fittings that are extremely common in the industry and have an ID of 7/8". Look on the Ferguson site. If you want 1/2" compression fittings, you'd better specify 1/2" or 5/8" OD in your order. If an engineer calls out "3/4 Copper" water piping in a new house, the plumber will install a material with 7/8" OD. And better yet, the engineer won't argue with him because of using ID vs OD. That's because they both understand what 3/4 copper pipe means in the building industry. Just as they both know what size a 2x6 actually is. But then the air conditioning guy will come along and rough-in his 7/8" tube, low pressure line. Turns out it is the same material as the 3/4" water pipe. Both trades got it right, each used a different name for the same product. Neither of them got the stuff from Home Depot or asked a Home depot employee to name it for them. How can this be? Next thing you know we'll have dogs and cats sleeping in the same bed! Oil and water will begin to mix. Oh, no!

That all works because they are using standard nomenclature in the industry to discuss a product known primarily as "pipe" for plumbing and "tube" for refrigeration. The same guys will pull into a gas station and fill up with "regular". Does the attendant stop and clarify what the standard chemical makeup of that commonly called fuel is, and then argue the name, before dispensing it?

Again, common names for things are often different than engineering specifications.

It's comical to be accused of shopping at Home Depot, and then using that supposition as support for clearly not understanding engineering specs. I can hardly wait for the next industry related put down. Sorry, but I could not have worked in the industry as long as I have without figuring out how to navigate the common names of things. Or the accurate names of non-standard things I'm looking for. I bet the next time I ask what time it is, someone will impatiently explain how a clock works. Or accuse me of asking a Lowes employee what time it is. Ouch!

This conversation isn't interesting anymore as it isn't related to how heating systems work, or why they don't. Back to troubleshooting and design.

 

[ford33]

Not difficult to solder at all. Once you learn how to do it, you will have a new skill that you can apply for other plumbing fixtures in the house.

One suggestion: If you plan to mount the copper tube on the outside of the interior drywall, use uni-strut and related mounting fittings, This allows you to adjust the tubing location easily and makes the installation look professional. You can attach short pieces of Uni-strut to the drywall in various locations where you run tubing. Then attach the tubing as you go along with the installation. Later you can use the extra space on each uni-strut to attach additional electrical conduit alongside the copper airline.

Show us your finished installation.

 

[JRC3]

Another thread derailed.


I just want to add that I solder my air tubing/pipes with purple primer and clear cement. herp-derp.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

No.

Copper pipe is measured by ID. Copper tubing is measured by OD.

LS,

Well perhaps you had better go tell the entire plumbing industry that the 3/4" copper and 1/2' copper water "pipe" they are using by the mile, everyday, is not what they or the industry says it is. Pipe is measured, approximately, on the ID and tubing is measured on the OD. Even if they are the exact same thing, they will be named differently if they are discussed as pipe rather than tubing. The words "tubing" or "pipe" must be used to select the category.

You can measure 3/4 copper pipe all day and you won't find any measurement that equals 3/4". It's the same product as 7/8" tubing. Same with 1/2" and 1" copper. If you want 3/4" tubing, you can't call it pipe because it's different than 3/4" copper pipe, 3/4 iron pipe, 3/4" conduit or 3/4" PEX. But there is one thing you can do and that is argue that they are all the same, if you want to.

If you want to discuss the OD as in refrigerant tubing, call it tubing. If you want to talk about copper pipe in homes, used for water, call it pipe. The rule even applies to iron pipe. Measure it all day and you won't find a 3/4" OD measurement on 3/4" pipe, it's closer to 1'' for brass and 1 1/16" for galvanized, but you can discuss iron in terms of the word "schedule". It has an approximate 3/4" ID adjusted by the "schedule", or wall thickness. Just as you can or must discuss copper in L, M or K. All the same OD, but with different wall thicknesses. Those terms say nothing specific themselves, but refer you back to a chart if you want to know the exact dimensions they are refering to. Copper pipe, used for sweating, and sometimes refered to as tubing, is not discussed in terms of "schedule" That is for threaded or **** welded pipe, generally of steel or stainless. Copper tubing is discussed in terms of OD and wall thickness in thousandths. So, you have wall thicknesses in thousandths, Schedules and Types, depending on the material and the function. Whew!

Technically, and in engineering circles, tubing is a fine word and applicable. Perfectly OK to say that copper pipe is really tubing and that it is really a different measuement than the industriy uses. Go ahead if you want to, it's OK .

The best engineeers understand how material measurements and standards are arrived at. They understand the properties of materials and the best ones for specific uses. They also understand what industry needs, uses and has settled on for practical use. They are able to converse in both of these worlds and are successful because of it. It's so much easier to simply suggest a material in response to a simple question, Like the OP asked, than to argue about arcane enginering criteria unrelated to getting air from one side of the shop to the other.

You might want to go and argue that there is no such thing as a 2X4 or a 4X6 to a carpenter. Maybe you're technically right, if only refering to the exact measurements of boards, but so what? How does that get the house built? I can see the argument now as you pull out a ruler and argue that the measurement is really 1 1/2" X 3 1/2" and NOT 2X4, at least in the one you happened to pick up and measure. The same word can be used to name something, that is used to describe something. So what?

I'd like to overhear the conversation next time you ask, at the paint store, for "white" paint. "What color white?", "white", "bright white", " white", "gloss white", " white", etc. Then you can give him the definition of white to clear it up.

Then you can argue that a 3/4 ton truck is not a 3/4 ton truck. Is that a name, a capacity or a weight? The next time your neighbor casually mentions that he may get a new 3/4 ton truck, stop him and tell him how the Society of Automotive Engineers describe those vehicles behind closed doors and that they should only be refered to in that way!

So, carry on and the next time you are in Home Depot, tell the guy you want 7/8" schedule 40 copper pipe. "Wait, while I get the manager", is more likely than "OK". Then, at your next engineers convention, be sure to tell them that homes all across the Country are being fraudulently built with the wrong size pipe that was measured approximately on the inside rather than the outside, and further, the contractors don't know the size of the pipe they are using!

If you get a new air conditioner, ask the technician what "schedule" the copper tubing is. "It's not measured in schedule, it's type L", is his likely answer. He'll respond in tubing OD and possibly wall thickness.

Industries become efficient by streamlining and standardizing. Workmen and suppliers gravitate toward fewer standard parts and dimentions. But engineering standards must be called out in some precise way that can be agreed upon across the country or around the world. Two different situations.

Pipe and tubing mean essentially the same thing in the dictionary. The same shape and function. But in the field they have different meanings. It's the easiest way to alert the listener that you are discussing a material configured and measured in a special way for it's category and purpose. Don't say pipe if you mean tubing. Don't say tubing if you mean pipe. Pipe is ID, tube is OD. To make this mistake at the plumbing supply will just lead to confusion and reveal that you are not aware of industry standards. But, of course, when the guy tries to help identify what you mean, be sure to start lecturing him about how engineers identify things at conventions. Remind him you know more about it than he does. Then they'll quickly understand what you mean.

It's not about the difference in ID or OD. You're arguing between engineering terms and common colloquial usage, which is incorrect.

You're barking up the wrong tree here, still do not grasp the differences between tubing and pipe and are comparing apples to oranges with your other examples. There are REAL 2x4s and "Dimensional" 2x4s. They are NOT the same size. The term 3/4 ton pickup is a vehicle class used for comparison within the brands, not necessarily a true cargo rating. It's always been that way.

From a dictionary point of view, "pipe" is a tubular vessel used to carry fluids and "tube" is a structural item and does not have to be round. Forget that. I don't want to confuse you more.

For you to say I am using different terms that the industry is almost 100% incorrect considering that you are the one that is crossing standards, schedules, ratings and measurements in a big jumble using terms from the industry that are not used the way you do. I am an ASHRAE Certified Master HVAC Technician and was an HVAC Service & Theory instructor at one of the largest private trade schools in the nation. I have been going into both HVAC and Plumbing supply houses, as well as writing RFPs for very large jobs and getting quotes for materials for over 30 years. So far I have never been looked at funny at the supply house counter nor have I received the wrong thing because I used the "wrong terms" or size.

In a nutshell, NO copper is PIPE. ALL K, L, M, and DWV tube is measured by ID. Only ACR is measured by OD. Just because the OD of K, L and M happens to be 1/8" thicker than the ID does NOT make it that size tubing. BTW, ACR is the same wall thickness as L, but it is charged with dehydrated Nitrogen and sealed.

Sorry for the derailment, guys and gals...

Tommy

 

[Trey T]

Can you expand on this a bit? I've never had to expand the tubing while brazing copper. I typically use Silphos15 for copper brazing.

You're a grammar police, aren't you?

He didn't say "while" brazing; he's just talking about fitting. He's likely talking about the handheld hydraulic swaging tool.

 

[DC73]

Don't know what lead solder strength is, but I know pipes can be pulled out of fittings if lead solder is used. Very weak.

The handbook backs up your observation.

According to the table I mentioned in the Copper Tube Handbook, 50/50 - Tin/Lead solder joints up to 1" are good for only 200 psi maximum working pressure at 100 degrees.

Joints soldered with 95/5 - Tin/Antimony were similarly rated for 1090 psi.

I wasn't sure what the working temperature would be for my copper pipe air distribution system, but studying that table made my choice of solder fairly easy. The better solders are cheap enough that it doesn't make sense to choose a lesser product.

DC

 

[Falcon67]

I learned today in another thread here that MAPP gas no longer exists since the last plant making it in the USA closed (in 2008 according to the other thread.) The yellow bottle now contains Map-Pro, a propylene-based gas, which burns only slightly hotter than propane. Still a small step up in heat transfer though but nothing like what MAPP gas used to be.

Yep. I have a little left in a real MAPP cylinder and I'm going to be real sad when it runs out.

 

[86turbodsl]

You're a grammar police, aren't you?

He didn't say "while" brazing; he's just talking about fitting. He's likely talking about the handheld hydraulic swaging tool.

Not at all, he said "ACR tubing requires expanding joints for brazing"

I just have never had to do that for brazing ACR, so i wanted to know what he knows, that I don't. That's all.

Don't read anything into it.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Not at all, he said "ACR tubing requires expanding joints for brazing"

I just have never had to do that for brazing ACR, so i wanted to know what he knows, that I don't. That's all.

Don't read anything into it.

Sounds like he's talking about swaging, but the material has nothing to do with whether or not it's swaged. ACR is just L with a dry nitrogen charge and sealed ends

Tommy.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

It's very easy to overheat a joint when soldering. Mapp may be a little too hot for a relative newbie. I'd use something like a Bernzomatic propane torch. The cooler flame is a little more forgiving when you're developing a learning curve.

Tommy

I always use propane for 1/2" and 3/4" copper. Cheaper and it's all that is needed. 1" and bigger I usually get the MAPP gas.

 

[bobbyjean]

ah---question here...whats wrong with pvc pipe for air lines? it would be much easier and cheaper to use....no?? even if you went with schedule 80...

 

[ez-duzit]

bj--PVC is dangerous, as it can expel shrapnel if it bursts.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

bj--PVC is dangerous, as it can expel shrapnel when it bursts.

I took the liberty of correcting it for you...

Tommy

 

[bobbyjean]

bj--PVC is dangerous, as it can expel shrapnel if it bursts.

ez-- schedule 40 is rated at 480 psi ....with mop of 289-
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-pressures-d_796.html

used schedule. 40 for air lines with no issue -i did make sure to check tank relief valve

 

[like2wheel]

ez-- schedule 40 is rated at 480 psi ....with mop of 289-
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-pressures-d_796.html

used schedule. 40 for air lines with no issue -i did make sure to check tank relief valve

Here we go again...

 

[FTG-05]

ez-- schedule 40 is rated at 480 psi ....with mop of 289-
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-pressures-d_796.html

used schedule. 40 for air lines with no issue -i did make sure to check tank relief valve

PVC pressure specs for compressed air lines is not the issue.

The real issue is with materials incompatibility (oil vs. PVC) and materials degradation (UV and oil vs. PVC) plus lack of impact resistance. As the guy said, it's not a matter of if, but when.

It's dumb to use PVC for compressed air service.

And no offense: it's even dumber to publicly advocate it without knowing what you're talking about.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

PVC pressure specs for compressed air lines is not the issue.

The real issue is with materials incompatibility (oil vs. PVC) and materials degradation (UV and oil vs. PVC) plus lack of impact resistance. As the guy said, it's not a matter of if, but when.

It's dumb to use PVC for compressed air service.

And no offense: it's even dumber to publicly advocate it without knowing what you're talking about.

Incompatibility is NOT the issue. PVC is not rated for compressed gases at all, regardless of pressure. Compressed gases store energy, resulting in explosive release of energy and shrapnel when (not if) the PVC fails, creating a bomb. Liquids at pressure do not store energy in any appreciable amount. It just creates a leak when the PVC fails.

Tommy

 

[ez-duzit]

ez-- schedule 40 is rated at 480 psi...

That is for water, which doesn't compress. Very dangerous for compressed air.

Do your own due diligence.

 

[Kevin99]

Not hard at all, just clean the pipe and fitting with some emery cloth, add a bit of flux and solder it up.

Thank you for this tips)it helps

 

[bobbyjean]

PVC pressure specs for compressed air lines is not the issue.

The real issue is with materials incompatibility (oil vs. PVC) and materials degradation (UV and oil vs. PVC) plus lack of impact resistance. As the guy said, it's not a matter of if, but when.

It's dumb to use PVC for compressed air service.

And no offense: it's even dumber to publicly advocate it without knowing what you're talking about.

sure...whatever....have seen multiple shops installed this way with no worries at 10 plus years....pressure bursts pipes for sure.....to me black iron is the way to go...but you may disagree

 

[LS6 Tommy]

sure...whatever....have seen multiple shops installed this way with no worries at 10 plus years....pressure bursts pipes for sure.....to me black iron is the way to go...but you may disagree

"No worries"? I don't care how many years or how many shops you've seen it in, it's illegal, dangerous and VERY risky. I'd worry. Especially if you're installing it as a paid contractor...

Tommy

 

[PT Doc]

Look at Prevost air lines. They supply major industries and have a really solid product. They are aluminum and have easy to use couplers. Very high quality and leakproof. And everything can be taken apart or added to with ease. Copper is not cheap for sure.

https://www.prevostusa.com/

 

[metlmunchr]

to me black iron is the way to go

Where do you get this black iron? Iron pipe has not been produced in the US for 60 years, so I assume you have a special source?

 

[raspy]

Where do you get this black iron? Iron pipe has not been produced in the US for 60 years, so I assume you have a special source?

Not produced for 60 years? I just love the adamant sarcastic declarations.

I wonder where the plumbers are getting all that black iron pipe that is going into the new houses we're working on? Hmmmmm.

Here's a place to get some, but it must all be over 60 years old.

https://www.jmesales.com/black-iron...X6exPCOw7SrJO4cxthg8HO5_oAwVzl-MaAiGUEALw_wcB

 

[SALIV8]

Wait.

Did this just go from sweating copper tips and tricks to a discussion AGAIN about using pvc as airlines?

 

[raspy]

Wait.

Did this just go from sweating copper tips and tricks to a discussion AGAIN about using pvc as airlines?

Well, yes. And we are also being told that there is no such thing as black iron pipe. And that came after we were told there is no such thing as copper pipe. Where to next?

 

[SALIV8]

Well, yes. And we are also being told that there is no such thing as black iron pipe. And that came after we were told there is no such thing as copper pipe. Where to next?

It's an adventure alright.

 

[bobbyjean]

Where do you get this black iron? Iron pipe has not been produced in the US for 60 years, so I assume you have a special source
LDR 1-in x 10-ft 150-PSI Black Iron Pipe -here it is(lowes)...probably not made in US as you stated

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Well, yes. And we are also being told that there is no such thing as black iron pipe. And that came after we were told there is no such thing as copper pipe. Where to next?

There is no such thing as copper pipe. It's TUBE!!

Back to our regularly scheduled discussion...

Tommy

 

[6PTsocket]

Only thing to add is be careful of what is behind the tubing when soldering, don't want to catch the house/garage on fire.

For that, I found those little "fire blankets" handy. I had to do one up between the joists when pulling a water line to my new refrigerator. Not sure what they are properly called. This was a great tutorial on technique. I have always bumbled through but it is good to see all the details spelled out so clearly. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Jeepster04]

That is for water, which doesn't compress. Very dangerous for compressed air.

Do your own due diligence.

This confuses me. Have you ever measured the pressure created from water hammering? I would think that the fact that the air compresses would reduce the overall shock load.

To keep things on topic. The only issues Ive ever had with soldering copper was during my previous project. I added a bladder tank to my water heater.

The copper fittings that I purchased at Lowes WOULD NOT go together after I added the flux/acid. Everything fit together nicely during the dry fit. Add the flux and it was as if the fittings were the wrong size. I had to take them and put them in my vice to get them together.

Has anyone else experienced this? Im getting ready to replace the water heater and Im already dreading running into this issue again. May buy fitting from Ace instead of lowes but I know they'll be more $$.

 

[raspy]

This confuses me. Have you ever measured the pressure created from water hammering? I would think that the fact that the air compresses would reduce the overall shock load.

To keep things on topic. The only issues Ive ever had with soldering copper was during my previous project. I added a bladder tank to my water heater.

The copper fittings that I purchased at Lowes WOULD NOT go together after I added the flux/acid. Everything fit together nicely during the dry fit. Add the flux and it was as if the fittings were the wrong size. I had to take them and put them in my vice to get them together.

Has anyone else experienced this? Im getting ready to replace the water heater and Im already dreading running into this issue again. May buy fitting from Ace instead of lowes but I know they'll be more $$.

I've never run into the fittings not working with flux on them. There must be some solids in the flux. Try another brand. Also, when and if you sand the fittings and the pipe, get the sanding residue off before you apply the flux.

The difference between pressure in PVC with a non compressible liquid and air is that if the pipe breaks with water in it, the pressure is gone instantly, or reduced to just water flow. When a pipe breaks with air in it, it's more like an explosion that propels fragments, and the pressure doesn't just instantly go to zero. You're right about the extreme pressure created in a water hammer, but if it breaks, it's over with no huge blast of pressure from a compressible gas. Water pressure is typically 60 or so and air pressure is typically 125 or so. Pressure is pressure regardless of whether it's gas or liquid, but pipes can get broken by mechanical damage too, such as getting hit with a hammer or bumped by a forklift. Also, oil or sunlight can weaken PVC, so it's ability to hold pressure will go way down. Sunlight makes PVC brittle. This can lead to an unexpected rupture and fragments flying.

Schedule 40 or schedule 80 PVC is certainly rated for air pressure initially, it's just that other factors can cause it to be dangerous. Mechanical damage, sunlight, or chemicals, for instance.

 

[Jeepster04]

That makes 110% more sense. Thanks for the explanation.

And Ill try to fit the fittings together after cleaning but before adding the flux next go around. That all happens in the same step so maybe the cleaning part does mess with it.

There is quite a bit of people that complain about the fittings not fitting after the flux if you search on it. Seems most say its a tolerance issue. Lowes/HD get the second hand ****.

 

[mygarageone]

When are people going to understand , everything you buy at a box store though it's a well known brand . Is not the same product we buy from professonal supply houses.

 

[raspy]

Copper can be slightly out-of-round from mis-handling, abrasive from emery cloth, or a ridge from a dull tube cutter can all cause fittings to be tight. None of those have anything to do with where you bought it. So, I guess, I don't "understand" that it is always the fault of the box store.

We get 99% of our plumbing supplies from "professional" supply houses and they are by no means perfect.