anndel
Well-known member
Mmmmmm, chocolate chip cookies, major yum!
Impact wrenches should be banned!
- Thread starter Warrenator
- Start date
Mmmmmm, chocolate chip cookies, major yum!
rlitman
Well-known member
Rotor, yes, but you can reach behind with a spray can and red-straw without removing the rotor. However, the rotor will need to come off anyway, so there's not much point to that.
Dust shield, no. The bolts go through it.
MFolks
Well-known member
On some vehicles one side has normal right hand threads on the lug nuts,but the other side is left hand threads......
Robert Haas
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- 1,749
If the last tech used an impact to install it,..... It seems he had access you do not.
FYI, using extensions on impacts reduces their power to the point of them being worthless.
This is the difference between a "tech" and a mechanic. A tech will fitz around trying for hours to get a proper tool on a fastener. A mechanic will try 3 or 4 different approaches and then pull the damn hub off the vehicle. With the proper tools you would have that part on the bench in 45 minutes and that is taking your sweet *** time.
You can't break it loose on the vehicle? then remove the whole damn assembly. Getting in and using an Oxyacetylene torch is the true sign of a cobby hack that could not give a **** they are destroying parts all around the area they are working.
I would not let you work on my wheelbarrow
FYI, using extensions on impacts reduces their power to the point of them being worthless.
This is the difference between a "tech" and a mechanic. A tech will fitz around trying for hours to get a proper tool on a fastener. A mechanic will try 3 or 4 different approaches and then pull the damn hub off the vehicle. With the proper tools you would have that part on the bench in 45 minutes and that is taking your sweet *** time.
You can't break it loose on the vehicle? then remove the whole damn assembly. Getting in and using an Oxyacetylene torch is the true sign of a cobby hack that could not give a **** they are destroying parts all around the area they are working.
I would not let you work on my wheelbarrow
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Get a real torch. Are they even non-original hubs? Make the "ear" where the bolt goes through glow cherry red, gun them out. This is SOP in the rust belt on most cars.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Drop the tie-rod and pull the caliper bracket and you can hit two of them with a universal, top one with a wobble. I like to try to break them free with an offset wrench, and then gun them out with a 3/8.
Not sure what part of the country you live in, but using a torch doesn't make someone a hack. In this area you can't change some serpentine belts without pulling the bracket for the manual tensioner off, and heating/quenching it a few times.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Compact impact? Don't buy the hype. That's a good bit of the issue there, as the 700lbs it's rated for is likely closer to 200. The nonsense the pneumatic companies use to rate guns has nothing to do with real world performance.
My IR2235 has "1100ft/lbs". I can promise you it does not.
BDT/NWMN
Well-known member
Driveway Mechanics are an interesting bunch. They often think their skills surpass those of the PROPERLY EDUCATED AND TRAINED PROFESSIONALS. They attempt to "fix" their own vehicles, and often end up putting them on Craig's List; stating it just needs a minor, $20 part.. The components of the vehicle that they haven't farted around with ""might"" be suitable for salvage use. Their $1200 stereo and $1000 chrome wheels they added to the rod knocking rust heap add great value to their price; but only in THEIR mind.
The sad thing is; some of these Driveway Mechanics talk some """"shop"""" into giving them a """job"""...
I have witnessed these same events countless times.
The sad thing is; some of these Driveway Mechanics talk some """"shop"""" into giving them a """job"""...
I have witnessed these same events countless times.
You clearly do not live in the rust belt. There’s nothing “hack” about using heat to aid the removal of a bolt or nut.
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bob15
Well-known member
Take it back to the shop that tightened them and ask them to loosen them for you.....then you tighten them to your spec.
If you have not rounded off the heads yet you have not applied enough torque yet.
Get a socket or a wrench on the bolt then turn it with what ever you need to get the
ob done. If clearance is a issue wrap a chain around the wrench and run it to a long
bar and use the bar to give you the leverage you need.
Get a socket or a wrench on the bolt then turn it with what ever you need to get the
ob done. If clearance is a issue wrap a chain around the wrench and run it to a long
bar and use the bar to give you the leverage you need.
Bighead38
Well-known member
This is not true.
Handyandy23
Well-known member
Those bolts aren't that big so I'm surprised they could even be installed that tight without having snapped off. I just did a wheel bearing on my wife's Equinox, and the bolts had a 13mm 6 point head. Probably about M10 bolts? They're high grade but not indestructible.
I ran them down with an impact and then torqued them manually, mainly because I was worried I would shear them off if I hit them too hard with the impact.
I'd bet the issue is either corrosion or someone used some heavy Loctite on them. Hard to see them getting torqued to that high of torque without breaking on install.
I ran them down with an impact and then torqued them manually, mainly because I was worried I would shear them off if I hit them too hard with the impact.
I'd bet the issue is either corrosion or someone used some heavy Loctite on them. Hard to see them getting torqued to that high of torque without breaking on install.
ken w.
Well-known member
I'm in the rust belt and I use heat before I even try to take them off with an impact. As others have mentioned , I think you need to heat it a lot more. I'm willing to bet someone put some red Loctite on them. I use Loctite , but I use blue as I know I'll most likely replace that hub in 2-3 years in my area. Another thing is when using an air compressor , you really need too turn the pressure up to 100 + psi and use a 3/8" air hose to get the max out of your impact wrench. I'm sure I'll get some flack for saying this but air tools work better with a bit more pressure than 90 psi. A 1/4" air hose restricts too much and you don't get enough volume for the air tool to preform well. Good luck with it.
" a torch & a vise grip can be your best friend sometimes "
" a torch & a vise grip can be your best friend sometimes "
Last edited:
MattPersman
Well-known member
Those old ones you get new bolts for. It’s very common for them to be hard to get off or even break coming out.
I’ve worked on dozens and dozens if not more.
Wouldn’t have mattered if the guy or gal used a tq wrench (which they didn’t) or an impact to tighten them you would be in the same spot
I know this site is full of torque gurus that use even the tq screwdrivers for trim screws but in the real world power tools get used on stuff like that by pros everyday every shop
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I’ve worked on dozens and dozens if not more.
Wouldn’t have mattered if the guy or gal used a tq wrench (which they didn’t) or an impact to tighten them you would be in the same spot
I know this site is full of torque gurus that use even the tq screwdrivers for trim screws but in the real world power tools get used on stuff like that by pros everyday every shop
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u118224
Well-known member
Doesn’t Jeep use torx bolts on their unit bearings, to be removed with an e torx socket? Some posters have referenced 12 point, or triple square. I haven’t seen that on Jeep’s. Just curious.
Handyandy23
Well-known member
Also if the bolts are that corroded and hard to remove, just wait until you get the bolts out and try to remove the hub from the knuckle! If you're stuck on the bolts you have no hope of getting the hub out of the knuckle.
jsmeece
Well-known member
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CIOC66Q/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Yeah, look like 12 point to me. I know I have removed and replaced these hubs before.
u118224
Well-known member
Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it!
This whole thread makes me laugh. Thanks everyone
Don't laugh, this thread is serious. No hand over your impact until you get your licence. The OP has certificates and stuff.
I've got rights and a life time NIA membership so over my dead body I'll give up my impacts.
KBigg
Well-known member
I lost my impacts in an unfortunate boating accident...
jgromada
Well-known member
exactly what i was thinking
the OP has said nothing about how he has tried to take that off
Worst case has he tried a breaker bar with a 10 ft length of pipe over it?
MBfreak
MEMBER EMERITUS
Correctly used there is nothing wrong with an impact wrench.
Make sure the nuts/screws are undamaged, get the correct torque stick and socket and tighten up.
The torque stick gives very consistent results. Used them for years in the assembly of EHV GIS switchgear. Post assembly 10 % quality check of the fasteners ( many thousands, all critical) always came out right.
Ola
Make sure the nuts/screws are undamaged, get the correct torque stick and socket and tighten up.
The torque stick gives very consistent results. Used them for years in the assembly of EHV GIS switchgear. Post assembly 10 % quality check of the fasteners ( many thousands, all critical) always came out right.
Ola
Handyandy23
Well-known member
Agreed on the torque sticks, where you have clearance / access to use them. I use them on lug nuts and then check with a torque wrench after (usually use a torque stick about 10 ft-lbs less than desired torque and finish with manual torque wrench). They are always very close to torque and only need a few degrees rotation to click.
Also much better than the "try to put them on loose with only a hammer or two" method. That way you have some nuts probably over-torqued (don't budge before clicking with the torque wrench) and other ones that you need to turn on several rotations to reach torque. The sticks are easy and effective.
Fluelikesymptoms
Well-known member
j.schaef
Active member
I'll third the torque sticks. They are the best. Especially when swapping to my winter wheels on my truck. 32 lugs takes forever without them.
I've also used an IR torque limited impact, which was equally great. Unlimited torque in reverse.
I've also used an IR torque limited impact, which was equally great. Unlimited torque in reverse.
rlitman
Well-known member
It SHOULD take a lot of torque, but is within the reach of many impacts. I had a lug nut that decided to cross-thread itself after installed, and when it jammed up, I put the gun on it, and left it hammering. Eventually it started to spin and fell of the now completely thread-less and smoking stud without snapping.
If I snapped a stud, I'l take a close up picture of the break. Look for rust where an older crack started.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Just wait until he goes to separate the hub from the knuckle.
Ban impacts?
Or try to get the axle shaft out of the hub.
I've done plenty of universal joints with half the axle still seized in the hub.
Peoria Man
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- Mar 1, 2012
- Messages
- 2,491
Obviously what is being overlooked here is:
"Righty tighty, lefty loosey".
"Righty tighty, lefty loosey".
jsmeece
Well-known member
NO! Actually what is being overlooked here is: most people who post on here do not know the difference between "lug nuts" and a "wheel hub bearing bolts"
rlitman
Well-known member
And axle hub nuts. Yeah, I've noticed.