Removing Sticker Residue without damaging painted finishes.
The Reed has been on hold for a while. Waiting for the weather to turn so I can paint.
In the meantime .........
Over the weekend, I picked up some hanging cabinets for the shop.
One of the cabinets had a magnetic sticker on it. Peel, toss, done.
Another cabinet had two vinyl stickers on it. Since I'm not interested in RV'ing, the Camper's Inn advertising had to go. As an aside, if you're going to put stickers on your boxes or cabinets, DON'T cover the graphics ! Better yet, put them on magnetic paper first so they can be easily moved or removed by the next owner.
The vinyl came off easily with a heat gun, but the sticker residue was left behind. The usual solvents for removing it also remove paint, so another method needed to be used.
Here's how I remove the sticker residue. It's a tedious process that takes time, but the results are worth it.
First, I remove the vinyl or paper of the decal using a hair dryer or heat gun. Let the metal cool off. This process works best at room temperature.
After that, I use electrical tape to pull up the residue. Start at an edge of the residue. Press a piece of e-tape onto the residue to make a bond to the e-tape adhesive. Just the part under your finger or thumb, not the whole strip. Then, sharply pull the tape off, like a bandaid. REPEAT, over and over again until residue comes off the tape and back onto the surface. As needed, move to a fresh spot on the tape. Toss the tape when it gets full, and use a new piece to continue.
Alternate pulling up, and at a slight angle. Periodically, wipe the cleared area with your finger to feel for anything that might have been missed. As you go, you will get a feel for what works and what doesn't. You will go through a lot of tape, so make sure you have enough on hand.
(I use both hands for this, the pictures only show one hand because the other is holding the camera)
As I said, this takes time. A 3x5 area took me about an hour. If your fingers start to cramp, walk away and do something else for a while. The residue can wait. It helps to sit while you're working. The process can be mind numbing.
This will only work if the residue is still tacky, it it's old and dried out this won't work. I've tried this method with scotch tape, masking tape, painter's tape, duct tape, gorilla tape, and gaffer's tape. Electrical tape works the best and is less likely to leave it's own residue behind, or pull up paint. Solvents have their place, but work better on bare metal or resistant coatings. The tape method take much longer, but the end result is less likely to affect the finish.
