Japanning Preference?
- Thread starter pandapike
- Start date
Roberts210
Well-known member
I'm not sure anyone really knows for sure the old recipe. When I first started my carpentry career, in the mid-1970's, there was much conjecture about what the Stanley Works used for their japanning. Stanley's coating, whatever its composition, takes the cake for toughness and beauty.
Yeah I watched a few videos and know could make but after cost of materials and time i will almost certainly spend more.
RoninB4
Well-known member
That was an interesting video, thanks. While researching the Japanning process for an old Prentiss #10 the Western process is quite different from the Asian lacquer (Urushi). The raw sap used in the Asian version is poisonous, perhaps encouraging the West to find a less toxic version. I was going to attempt the Western version but putting a large vise through the process (and stinking up the house) led me to use a rattle can enamel on it instead. Would still like to attempt this, too many other projects in the way.
Would love to see photos from anybody that does this.
Would love to see photos from anybody that does this.
I seriously doubt that it being poisonous had anything to do with it!
As always money drives business. I am quite sure the west changed it because of cost. Either the base materials cost or the cost of the process required to make it.
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As always money drives business. I am quite sure the west changed it because of cost. Either the base materials cost or the cost of the process required to make it.
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crguy
Well-known member
I don't understand why people go to all the extra work trying to make/use japanning. It adds no value to a tool and multiple coats of spray paint are much easier to apply.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
Spray paint doesn't last close to 100 years.
RTM
Well-known member
Or feel as nice as it wears in.
I looked into japanning too when I restored a heavily rusted Stanley Bedrock 605 for workshop use. However, given the smelly process and being married, I decided that I didn't want my new home to be a cardboard box at the street. So I used Rusto's farm enamel black in a spray can. Fact is, I'm a tool-user not a collector or restorer — which simplified the decision-making.
For the before-and-after pix, see here and here.
For the before-and-after pix, see here and here.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
The shop toaster oven is a great marriage protecting tool that can often be found for $5 at a yard sale.
Excellent idea — but, alas, my workshop is in the basement....
After reading about the Japanning process I wonder if part of the longevity is due to the thick tar-like component that forms a virtually waterproof barrier for the tools? The other ingredients seem to be "additives" to assist in application or toughening so the base hydrocarbon remains intact. Just wondering.
The way I heard it was that the (western) japanning process was basically applying driveway sealer plus some thickening agent(s), which coating is then heated to drive off the volatiles and leaves a tough residue.
Happy to learn that it's actually different —
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Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
I'd say it's more of a thermoplastic than semi crude oil, very much like powder coat, but without electricity in the application process.
Almost all my 80h-100 year old Trimo wrenches are still fully coated in the recesses, and still have good cover on the beating surfaces.
There must be some fine line baking wood handles though.
Almost all my 80h-100 year old Trimo wrenches are still fully coated in the recesses, and still have good cover on the beating surfaces.
There must be some fine line baking wood handles though.
