Kitchen cabinets

[jar944]

Yes to the hood gap.

No to a 16" filler, it's basically a bulkhead at that point. Just crown alone or stacked cabinets IMHO. If you stack them you use a small moulding to cover the seam.

Lol at the price for moulded doors being 10% over shaker. They would be considered standard flat panel usually.
Either way that is a personal preference. I personally am not a fan of "shaker" (square edge flat panel) but everyone else is so..

 

[branimal]

I'll price out the upper 12" cabinets. If they're too much, I'm going to just use crown on top of the 42" uppers.

@Viper98912 I'll price out the oem lazy susans and trash pullouts. Thanks for that insight. Why don't you like the pie cut corners?
Discrepancy in math not adding up to a 36" range: On each side of the 30" exhaust hood, I'm going to leave a 3" gap. That explains the 6" discrepancy. (To the right of the Left Upper 15" cabinet there is a 3" gap and to the left of the right upper 15" cabinet there is a 3" gap.)

 

[65ranchero]

Clean

Have you considered swapping the fridge door around so it opens the other way?

In your case, I bet it's designed so you rotate it 180 deg. Top and bottom are the same.

Thanks on the comment, solid maple fronts in shaker style sprayed in a top grade cleat coat, 1/2 or 5/8" ( I don't remember) ply boxes almost all the cabinets were custom made and we were glad we went with upper cabinets the ceiling (8' )
I don't recall why the doors didn't get reversed.
I do recall that in order to remove the ice maker tray in the top compartment the wall phone had to be taken off the wall bracket ( phone not there in that picture)

edit: I think I remember why the door stayed that way it would hit the phone on the wall and we didn't want to relocate the phone
( I think)

 

[65ranchero]

This is similar to what was used in my other kitchen corner space
Worked good wire shelves and side rails I don't think any thing fell of into neverland

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[Viper98912]

I'll price out the upper 12" cabinets. If they're too much, I'm going to just use crown on top of the 42" uppers.

@Viper98912 I'll price out the oem lazy susans and trash pullouts. Thanks for that insight. Why don't you like the pie cut corners?
Discrepancy in math not adding up to a 36" range: On each side of the 30" exhaust hood, I'm going to leave a 3" gap. That explains the 6" discrepancy. (To the right of the Left Upper 15" cabinet there is a 3" gap and to the left of the right upper 15" cabinet there is a 3" gap.)

Pie cut corners have always felt a little wonky to me, just in how it opens. Nothing scientific, just a personal nitpick I guess. But, be aware that because of the hinge in the middle of the door, you can technically bang the edge of the door against the door or drawer next to it. If you don't open and close the door strictly by "bending" it first, then pulling, you'll definitely hit the door next to it. So if there's anyone in your household that likes to "slam" the doors or drawers closed without actually "placing" them closed, then they're going to damage that corner door over time.

Also, I still don't see your math. If I add up the left side before the range, you have 102" of wall cabinets and 105" of base cabinets, before you get to the range. So if you have a 36" gap in the wall and the base in your design, then you have 3" of gap on each side of the 30" range in the base cabinets, and you have 6" of gap on each side of the hood in the wall cabinets. Walk it through, I honestly think you have a significant calculation mistake here, especially if you end up with a 3" gap on each side of the range! (Unless I'm misunderstanding your first drawing and I'm completely wrong here...)

 

[branimal]

Regarding the math... I calculated it again.

- 102" of wall cabinets. 3" gap on the wall. Gets me to 105" where the exhaust hood starts. 30" exhaust hood. Exhaust hood ends at 135".
- 105" of base cabinets range starts. 30" range. Range ends at 135".

I laid it out in excel to make sure I'm not missing anything.

 

[Viper98912]

Regarding the math... I calculated it again.

- 102" of wall cabinets. 3" gap on the wall. Gets me to 105" where the exhaust hood starts. 30" exhaust hood. Exhaust hood ends at 135".
- 105" of base cabinets range starts. 30" range. Range ends at 135".

I laid it out in excel to make sure I'm not missing anything.

Did you move the end of the base cabinets down to 172" total? Because your original has 178" total and I was using that as the baseline. Here's my math:




All in all, just trying to help with what I saw (just in case), not be nosy

 

[Crazyhorse]

54" - 38" = 16"
or
54" - 36" = 18"

My lowers are 38" to the finished surface....that puts my uppers at the standard 54"

19-1/2" is still kinda high

Standard is 36" countertop height, 18" clear to uppers (54" from finished floor). Most ranges require the 18" tall clearance for at least 12" either side of the range.
We've been doing a lot of bigger kitchens lately with 24" clear to the bottom of the uppers, but it won't work with a microwave hood, ss they aren't typically rated to be that high above the range.

If you were one of our clients we'd recommend 54ish inch uppers, with 18" doors over 36" doors. (I've done 54" tall doors, but I don't like them as much, as they accentuate the height of the room, at the expense of the width).

Custom Cabinetry has been my profession since 1996, started sweeping floors, now one of the partners in the company.

 

[ddawg16]

Standard is 36" countertop height, 18" clear to uppers (54" from finished floor). Most ranges require the 18" tall clearance for at least 12" either side of the range.
We've been doing a lot of bigger kitchens lately with 24" clear to the bottom of the uppers, but it won't work with a microwave hood, ss they aren't typically rated to be that high above the range.

If you were one of our clients we'd recommend 54ish inch uppers, with 18" doors over 36" doors. (I've done 54" tall doors, but I don't like them as much, as they accentuate the height of the room, at the expense of the width).

Custom Cabinetry has been my profession since 1996, started sweeping floors, now one of the partners in the company.

I built my own cabinets. The ceiling in the kitchen is vaulted so most of our cabinets go up to at least 8'.

We are both kind of tall so our 38" lowers are more comfortable for us. Even our master bath vanity is taller than standard

 

[jar944]

If you were one of our clients we'd recommend 54ish inch uppers, with 18" doors over 36" doors. (I've done 54" tall doors, but I don't like them as much, as they accentuate the height of the room, at the expense of the width).

That was the basis of my suggestion for a 12 stacked on a 42. It's generally the similar look but at a fraction of the cost of a custom cabinet. Op mentioned 6k currently for all the cabinets

I prefer 1pc integral boxes myself, but I'm guessing from previous posts it's not in the budget.

 

[branimal]

Did you move the end of the base cabinets down to 172" total? Because your original has 178" total and I was using that as the baseline. Here's my math:
All in all, just trying to help with what I saw (just in case), not be nosy

Yes I did. I apologize for not updating the diagram and causing the confusion. Appreciate your attention to detail!!!! Thanks!

 

[bugnut]

I'll add my $ .02. My kitchen had a door attached to the lower corner lazy susan, I believe it reduced the storage capacity compared to the pie cut doors. When the kitchen was remodeled it incorported two pie cut corner cabinets upper and lower in the design.

 

[jar944]

Pie-cut is for inset doors attached to the lazy susan.

Kidney cut is doors with hinges.

Pie cut


Kidney cut

 

[bugnut]

Jar thanks for your reply I did not understand the difference until I saw your images. I used the kidney style with the lazy susan on the lower and the same type doors on the upper so we have full access in the corner.

 

[yeldogt]

Corner cabinet lazy Susan (lower) -- while I like the idea of the attached doors no one make a really good one and the doors require a bit more gap. They always get wonky ..... I do the hinged door.

I'm not a fan of the upper corner ---- always looks strange. In the city uppers are a necessity -- going all the way up is nice. In bigger kitchens I try and do full walls and limit upper cabinets

 

[jar944]

Corner cabinet lazy Susan (lower) -- while I like the idea of the attached doors no one make a really good one and the doors require a bit more gap. They always get wonky ..... I do the hinged door.

I'm not a fan of the upper corner ---- always looks strange. In the city uppers are a necessity -- going all the way up is nice. In bigger kitchens I try and do full walls and limit upper cabinets

You can get decent results with the pie cut (attached door) lazy susan's. However they are a nightmare to setup (when building the cabinets)

The door gaps can also be kept identical (or close enough to be imperceptible) to the rest of the cabinets however it requires a bevel or radius on the inside of the face frame. I prefer attaxhed doors visually and for functionality as compared the other options (the double hinged doors are worse imho)

 

[yeldogt]

You can get decent results with the pie cut (attached door) lazy susan's. However they are a nightmare to setup (when building the cabinets)

The door gaps can also be kept identical (or close enough to be imperceptible) to the rest of the cabinets however it requires a bevel or radius on the inside of the face frame. I prefer attached doors visually and for functionality as compared the other options (the double hinged doors are worse imho)

The custom cabinet guys I have worked with always move me from the attached doors ..... think it's because I do traditional inset frame and they worry about the bigger gap the attached will need.

I have used the attached years ago -- but, they were woodmode I think. partial overlay -- Worked well. You can't overload them

 

[jar944]

The custom cabinet guys I have worked with always move me from the attached doors ..... think it's because I do traditional inset frame and they worry about the bigger gap the attached will need.

I have used the attached years ago -- but, they were woodmode I think. partial overlay -- Worked well. You can't overload them

They move you away from them because they are a pain to install and get everything correct including the reveals. The adjustment is limited and the cabinet and doors need to be perfect.. Every cabinet maker I know hates them.

Revashelf makes ok hardware for this application. I only build inset cabinets BTW.

This is revashelf hardware with 1.155" thick doors

 

[yeldogt]

My current plans calls it a "super Susan". Does require the hinged door -- "Susans" sit on shelves vs both on a pole. Frankly -- I'm not real fond of either -- but, I have no choice in this kitchen as it's space constrained.

Like the cabinet bead you used .... I'm into english styled kitchens. Had them do one years ago when in London. Very simple .... slab drawers vs 5 piece ... no toe kick .... odd raised panel door in places. I like doing the bead on the cabinet around a slab drawer. Plain English cabinetmakers .... they have a USA showroom now

 

[jar944]

My current plans calls it a "super Susan". Does require the hinged door -- "Susans" sit on shelves vs both on a pole. Frankly -- I'm not real fond of either -- but, I have no choice in this kitchen as it's space constrained.

Like the cabinet bead you used .... I'm into english styled kitchens. Had them do one years ago when in London. Very simple .... slab drawers vs 5 piece ... no toe kick .... odd raised panel door in places. I like doing the bead on the cabinet around a slab drawer. Plain English cabinetmakers .... they have a USA showroom now

Hadn't seen Plain English before. Looks like the typical well done English bespoke design. They (the English) tend to use a lot more **** hinges with inset beaded cabinetry. I like the look myself.

I'm partial to 5pc doors / drawers over slab. Ideally a thicker door with deeper sticking profiles. The profile on these is 5/8" deep (face to panel) which you would typically see on a 1.75"+ thick exterior door. Panels are reverse raised.

 

[yeldogt]

Hadn't seen Plain English before. Looks like the typical well done English bespoke design. They (the English) tend to use a lot more **** hinges with inset beaded cabinetry. I like the look myself.

I'm partial to 5pc doors / drawers over slab. Ideally a thicker door with deeper sticking profiles. The profile on these is 5/8" deep (face to panel) which you would typically see on a 1.75"+ thick exterior door. Panels are reverse raised.

I like the legs on that ..... and the thicker/wider stock on the panels is a plus. if you look on plain english they do a lot of legged islands .... that's how I typically go ( my new place as well) I'm not apposed to the 5 part drawers .... I just think it makes for a busy design in a kitchen or other built in when you have more than a couple drawers.

My new house has cabinetry in almost every room -- including the bedrooms were I'm building in the wardrobes as part of full paneled walls. I had to pick a design and take it through ... so no 5 part drawers. But -- most will get the bead around the cabinet. IMO -- kitchens can get too busy ... I's always looking for way to make things simple.

The OP has corners --as we always do in design. Those upper corner units always throw the room off IMO.

 

[branimal]

I got the plans semi-finalized. Going to pull the trigger today or tomorrow morning.

1. As previously mentioned, I need 3 trash cans. Trash, cardboard recycling, can & bottle recycling. I found a Rev-a-Shelf under the sink, small trash pull-out. I like the idea of small trash cans that need to be dumped every 1-2 days. Best part is the trash cans come w/ lids. Unfortunately, the assembly cannot attach to the door.
2. For the recycling I'm going to use the Base 18 on the end of the peninsula. I found a double can, pull out style drawer attachment. When ordering this cabinet do I need to request, that hinges are not added to the door?
3. For the Base9, I found a rev-a-shelf storage rack. The required opening is 6". I measured one of the cabinets in the showroom and the opening was 5 15/16". I'm guessing cabinets have some +/- measurements to them. Fortunately Rev-a-shelf makes a 5" version.
4. 12" uppers are not available in matching sizes. I'm going to use 42" uppers (largest available) and a 4" crown moulding up top. 36" upper above the sink.
5. Lazy susans for the corner base cabinets.
6. The wall cabinet to the right of the range hood increased to 33" wide from 15". The 15" wide just looked strange out there alone.
7. Drawer base 18 to the right of the sink.

Here are the plan diagrams and a simulated picture. I also attached pics of the rev-a-shelf aftermarket items.

Btw, I priced out the Cabinet makers inserts:

• undersink trash pull out : not available
• Base 18 trash pullout : $540 vs $180
• B9 pullout: $280 vs $150.

 

[MongoTA]

Can't offer any specific advice at this time, but we sure do appreciate the high storage in our kitchen. When I built the house I set the first floor ceiling at 10' high. For fitment, It helps that I made the cabinets myself, the uppermost green painted boxes are long-term storage, or 'occasionally used items' type of stuff.

Lower countertop on the right is 30" deep. Great depth to have countertop appliances on the counter yet still have usable space in front of the appliance(s). Drawers are all 28" deep on full extension slides. Loads of storage and all easily accessible. Nothing gets lost.

Back right corner, the countertop clips the corner at a 45 degree angle. Two-tier lazy susan storage under the countertop.

I'm 6'4", my wife is 5'1", so we have varying heights for the different countertop/work surfaces. You do what you gotta do...lol

It's a heavily used kitchen. Just had friends over for dinner tonight, thus the clutter.

Used "panorama" mode to take the photo, so it seems a bit skewed here and there...

 

[branimal]

Update *** Went to pay for my cabinet order yesterday and the sales guy tells me to measure my doorways and stairwells. He needs a minimum of 35" to get the 36" lazy susan's on site. (Cabinet height is 34 1/2").

Turns out one area of the stairwell is 34 1/8". (That's assuming I take the 1"x3" trim board off).

The cabinet manufacturers make a 33" lazy susan. And according to the diagram the opening size appears to be the same (9 1/2"). I'll verify with the sales guy. See pic. If I can get all the pots & pans, etc into a 33" lazy susan, (I have 2 of them), this allows me to increase my sink size by 3" and shorten the kitchen by 3". Any downside to a 33" LAzy susan vs 36"?

 

[jar944]

The 36" should have had a 10.5" opening, the 33 will be 7.5"

That assumes these are face frame cabinets like the drawing.

12" stickout for the 36" with 1.5" lost to the face frame.

9" stick out for the 33" with the same 1.5" lost to the face frame.

If they are frameless it's only 3/4" lost but the 9/12 is the same

 

[branimal]

The 36" should have had a 10.5" opening, the 33 will be 7.5"

That assumes these are face frame cabinets like the drawing.

12" stickout for the 36" with 1.5" lost to the face frame.

9" stick out for the 33" with the same 1.5" lost to the face frame.

If they are frameless it's only 3/4" lost but the 9/12 is the same

These are face frame cabinets. What is the angle where the 7 1/2" legs intersect one another? 135* or 90*? I'm trying to figure out the horizontal opening - to see if some of my larger pans can fit in. Unfortunately there are no 33" lazy susans in the showroom.



Thanks

 

[jar944]

These are face frame cabinets. What is the angle where the 7 1/2" legs intersect one another? 135* or 90*? I'm trying to figure out the horizontal opening - to see if some of my larger pans can fit in. Unfortunately there are no 33" lazy susans in the showroom.



Thanks

90 degrees

 

[Toolfool]

For tight doorways, I used to order 36" lazy susans with loose toe-kicks. The entire toe-kick/base comes separately and get attached on site. Cabinet is then only 30" tall.

 

[branimal]

For tight doorways, I used to order 36" lazy susans with loose toe-kicks. The entire toe-kick/base comes separately and get attached on site. Cabinet is then only 30" tall.

Thanks. According to my sales rep, I'd need to cut off the toe kick with a circ saw??

 

[jar944]

Thanks. According to my sales rep, I'd need to cut off the toe kick with a circ saw??

That was what I assumed, and why I didn't mention the possibility. Just cutting off the toe kick is not the same as separate toe kicks.

I assumed they are using a std line of stock cabinets (or imported RTA they assemble) based on the price you mentioned.

 

[branimal]

That was what I assumed, and why I didn't mention the possibility. Just cutting off the toe kick is not the same as separate toe kicks.

I assumed they are using a std line of stock cabinets (or imported RTA they assemble) based on the price you mentioned.

Im going to go with LS33. I can store my larger pans in a DB36.