Knives & blacksmithing and more
- Thread starter Junebuggy
- Start date
drivesitfar
Well-known member
JB: for a post with no words you just said quite a bit. that sir isn't a just a knife it's ART.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
JB: sounds like you should plan a trip to the San Juans and maybe a trip a little farther to land on Vintage's island. you can grab some driftwood and some good scenery while you are looking for one and maybe a little shop time with Vintage and his new 70+ year old vises.
BTW i didn't notice the driftwood in the picture. i had to go back and check it out.
BTW i didn't notice the driftwood in the picture. i had to go back and check it out.
vintage nut
Well-known member
Well if you ever make it to Vancouver Island, you're welcome to stop for a visit!
And drives, that little knife your wife now has would be great for opening boxes! I use mine for that all the time. I also do kitchen knives and chef's knives.
you can never have too many tools
And drives, that little knife your wife now has would be great for opening boxes! I use mine for that all the time. I also do kitchen knives and chef's knives.
you can never have too many tools
KMScott
Well-known member
Awesome knife Junebuggy, I can not phantom creating something that nice. I live in a custom built Geodesic Dome and the builder of my home is a knife builder and had a store in our tourist town, yours are even better then his and I know he would agree. Keep posting pictures please if you have the time. I have some iron wood and would share some if you wanted to make a handle out of this dark hard wood. Parents used to live in the desert by Mexico.
vintage nut
Well-known member
For drives and anyone else interested, here is my process for making a file ready to turn into a knife. This is the material I start with for my small general purpose knife (the one drives (wife) has) 10" Nicholson mill ******* files. I have had lots of canadian made ones, but there are actually American ones. I get all the old files from the shop teachers at school. That said, these are the last of them, and I'm going to have to try and find more!
Next they get loaded into my heat treating oven to bake at 1475 for 30 minutes, and allowed to slowly cool. This aneals them, and makes them soft enough to cut on the bandsaw and drill holes.
I'll post again once they have finished cooking.
you can never have too many tools
Next they get loaded into my heat treating oven to bake at 1475 for 30 minutes, and allowed to slowly cool. This aneals them, and makes them soft enough to cut on the bandsaw and drill holes.
I'll post again once they have finished cooking.
you can never have too many tools
Amitygravel
Well-known member
Neat stuff everyone.
Been getting ready to hit The Blade Show down in Atlanta this week.
Little bird/trouts with damascus , mokume bolsters and black lip pearl are both under 5".
Next are some mosaic pins. About 180 total.
Some mokume stuff. Couple of knot busters and beads and couple of pendants in progress.
Then some fossil mammoth ivory beads.
Been getting ready to hit The Blade Show down in Atlanta this week.
Little bird/trouts with damascus , mokume bolsters and black lip pearl are both under 5".
Next are some mosaic pins. About 180 total.
Some mokume stuff. Couple of knot busters and beads and couple of pendants in progress.
Then some fossil mammoth ivory beads.
Attachments
johno
Well-known member
Amity, that's some nice stuff, what metals are the mokume work?
Amitygravel
Well-known member
Thank you johno !
I use Mike Sakmar's Mokume Gane.
Most of the time I use the "two color" , copper and nickel silver.
The knot busters are 3 color , brass being the third color.
Mike makes top quality stuff , I just purchase chunks of it and forge it into smaller pieces.
I use Mike Sakmar's Mokume Gane.
Most of the time I use the "two color" , copper and nickel silver.
The knot busters are 3 color , brass being the third color.
Mike makes top quality stuff , I just purchase chunks of it and forge it into smaller pieces.
johno
Well-known member
Thanks for the info.
Any separation when you forge it?
Any separation when you forge it?
bczygan
Well-known member
Got a blower.
Need a forge.
Looking for a nice big Fisher
Need a forge.
Looking for a nice big Fisher
Amitygravel
Well-known member
Sure thing johno.
Separation can easily occur.
There is a fine line between too hot or too cold.
I would say a very dull orange is about right.
Small pieces like any forging don't hold heat very long.
I do a lot of rough cut pieces about the size of a .45 slug.
Some Koa Wool and a propane torch provide plenty of heat , and a ball pein hammer has plenty of weight.
Big pieces can be done in a forge but you really have to watch your color.
My buddy will even use the Little Giant power hammer , but with very light pats.
Even if it does de laminate , you can make something out of it.
Separation can easily occur.
There is a fine line between too hot or too cold.
I would say a very dull orange is about right.
Small pieces like any forging don't hold heat very long.
I do a lot of rough cut pieces about the size of a .45 slug.
Some Koa Wool and a propane torch provide plenty of heat , and a ball pein hammer has plenty of weight.
Big pieces can be done in a forge but you really have to watch your color.
My buddy will even use the Little Giant power hammer , but with very light pats.
Even if it does de laminate , you can make something out of it.
vintage nut
Well-known member
I've been working on some fancier designs lately. My thing is using very exotic and interesting woods. Tubi and katalox are my two latest finds. Tubi is from the solomon islands, and is almost exactly like lignum vitae in every way. Sinks in water, destroys bandsaw blades, about as hard as aluminum, ect. From what I've gathered, its second only to lignum vitae in both hardness and toughness. Its also used like lignum in ship bearings in the solomons. Katalox is a very interesting wood, and actually one of my favorites. I actually bought a board from the first shipment of it ever available here (western canada) it's about the 5th hardest wood around, but not as dense as others. Dark purple color (darker and far less vulgar than purpleheart, and it patinas to look like ebony, rather than mud) and it has a very interesting grain. Almost burl like in its figure, and lots of little bird's-eye spots.
My next trip to the hardwoods supplier is going to be for an assortment of ebonys, and possibly some rosewood and cocobolo. I have a bit of cocobolo, but not much left. I'm really lucky to have one of the biggest exotic wood suppliers in the country just a few minutes drive from here! I also work for a tree service and get lots of interesting stuff from that. Currently have a pile of acacia milled up and drying. Close relative of koa, but a brilliant yellow color, almost like osage orange. And about as hard as brick.
you can never have too many tools
My next trip to the hardwoods supplier is going to be for an assortment of ebonys, and possibly some rosewood and cocobolo. I have a bit of cocobolo, but not much left. I'm really lucky to have one of the biggest exotic wood suppliers in the country just a few minutes drive from here! I also work for a tree service and get lots of interesting stuff from that. Currently have a pile of acacia milled up and drying. Close relative of koa, but a brilliant yellow color, almost like osage orange. And about as hard as brick.
you can never have too many tools
bczygan
Well-known member
Just WOW!
TOOL_MONGER
Well-known member
Junebuggy... what would a knife made by you cost? one with good detail.
Amitygravel
Well-known member
Junebuggy ,
That is all kinds of beatiful !
One thing I forgot about mokume , SHARP drills bits and any kind of oil while drilling.
Nickel silver really can grab onto a bit , it heats up fast. Even though its a small part of the overall structure its enough to cause you fits if you're impatient.
That is all kinds of beatiful !
One thing I forgot about mokume , SHARP drills bits and any kind of oil while drilling.
Nickel silver really can grab onto a bit , it heats up fast. Even though its a small part of the overall structure its enough to cause you fits if you're impatient.
Bob Warner
Active member
Good work guys. I've made a few myself.
There is NO railroad spike in the knife below.
Also made a few tools,
Made the electro-etcher and stencils to put my name on them also.
Congrats to everyone above this post for their excellent work.
Bob
It's fun, been at it about 18 years, self taught.
There is NO railroad spike in the knife below.
Also made a few tools,
Made the electro-etcher and stencils to put my name on them also.
Congrats to everyone above this post for their excellent work.
Bob
It's fun, been at it about 18 years, self taught.
Amitygravel
Well-known member
Bob!
Welcome to The Garage Journal !
Very nice stuff !
You realize now you have to show us how you did your electro etch build , the treadle hammer and the hydraulic press.
Your in deep now man , you're one of us.
Edit ,
Now I caught your actual join date , you've been holding out on us !
Welcome to The Garage Journal !
Very nice stuff !
You realize now you have to show us how you did your electro etch build , the treadle hammer and the hydraulic press.
Your in deep now man , you're one of us.
Edit ,
Now I caught your actual join date , you've been holding out on us !
Last edited:
Bob Warner
Active member
Yeah been watching for a long time.
I designed and built my first electro-etcher because I could not afford to buy one. I shared that design with the knifemaking community many years ago and a LOT of knifemakers have built them and have been using them for years. A knifemaker named Chris Crawford did a tutorial on how to build it on his web site. It is located here if anyone is interested.
http://chriscrawfordknives.com/#/electro-etching-unit/4535265119
I have since created a DVD on how to make an electro-etcher, metal plater and anodier in an all-in-one unit. It is sold through Amazon.com for $40.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4NRP6/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I get a cut of each sale. I actually build the unit on the video as well as demonstrate it. I build and explain how to use the stencil making exposure unit. These exposure units cost a fortune when bought but I figured out the process and shared it.
I have a CD on how to build the treadle hammer including cut drawings.
Another on the hydraulic press.
I sell these also. I'm old and need the small trickle of income.
I have a LOT of FREE tips and tricks and how to builds of things if anyone is interested I could start another thread and post them.
I designed and built my first electro-etcher because I could not afford to buy one. I shared that design with the knifemaking community many years ago and a LOT of knifemakers have built them and have been using them for years. A knifemaker named Chris Crawford did a tutorial on how to build it on his web site. It is located here if anyone is interested.
http://chriscrawfordknives.com/#/electro-etching-unit/4535265119
I have since created a DVD on how to make an electro-etcher, metal plater and anodier in an all-in-one unit. It is sold through Amazon.com for $40.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4NRP6/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I get a cut of each sale. I actually build the unit on the video as well as demonstrate it. I build and explain how to use the stencil making exposure unit. These exposure units cost a fortune when bought but I figured out the process and shared it.
I have a CD on how to build the treadle hammer including cut drawings.
Another on the hydraulic press.
I sell these also. I'm old and need the small trickle of income.
I have a LOT of FREE tips and tricks and how to builds of things if anyone is interested I could start another thread and post them.
JeremyBurke
Well-known member
Do this please or post it up here. This is a thread dedicated to smithing and knives. If it fits I don't think anyone would mind.
Bob Warner
Active member
OK, let me find it all and I will start posting. Should I post them here? You guys decide.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Bob: i'm all for you posting your information. also welcome to the forum or welcome back. nice work on those knives too.
JB: so do you carry that gem in your pocket every day and use it when the need arises? i love your work and it shows you care. keep posting your gems and all 1300 of them if you have the pictures. also i know you sold the shop you owned, but do you still have pictures of it to post so we can see where all or most of these awesome knives were made?
Vintage: thanks again for another great tutorial. just curious if i found a nice oven they bake ceramic items in would that work or is that what you actually own? thanks
JB: so do you carry that gem in your pocket every day and use it when the need arises? i love your work and it shows you care. keep posting your gems and all 1300 of them if you have the pictures. also i know you sold the shop you owned, but do you still have pictures of it to post so we can see where all or most of these awesome knives were made?
Vintage: thanks again for another great tutorial. just curious if i found a nice oven they bake ceramic items in would that work or is that what you actually own? thanks
Bob Warner
Active member
I went back and looked at the post by Vintage. He is using a heat treat oven to anneal the files. It is basically an electronically (in most cases) controlled kiln that is shaped best for knifemakers (Long, thin and not too wide).
A kiln can be used but is big and wastes a lot of energy heating up unused area.
Hope that answers your question so it does not keep you up all night.
A kiln can be used but is big and wastes a lot of energy heating up unused area.
Hope that answers your question so it does not keep you up all night.
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vintage nut
Well-known member
My oven is an evenheat kf22.5 with rampmaster. I got the top model one, because the Canadian dealer had all the models within 200 bucks price difference, so I figured I may as well get the best. Already used full length a few times. Not cheap at all, but a very useful unit. The rampmaster controller is brilliant, and far more powerful in its functions than anyone could ever fully utilize. I guess a pottery kiln could work, but it wouldn't be ideal. Unless you're really planning on getting in the knifemaking big time, I probably wouldn't buy one. I'll offer to do heat treating for you if you decide to make a few knives. If you send them to me I'll toss them in the oven with a batch of my knives. I use files, O1, and A2, so as long as you pick one of those, its no problem to stick an extra knife in the kiln. I actually order my steel from kbc tools (a machinist supplier) surprisingly I can actually buy starrett precision ground O1 for less than out of the mill hot rolled O1 from a knifemaking supplier. And well under half of what it would be at a local steel supplier. I'm honestly surprised more knifemakers don't get materials from kbc... Really good prices on O1 and A2, and they can even get in D2. I just add a stick or two to the order whenever my dad orders more machining stuff.
you can never have too many tools
you can never have too many tools
vintage nut
Well-known member
Your work is very impressive junebuggy! From what I've seen it looks about on the level of don hanson of sunfish knives. I've talked with him a fair bit, and he's one good knifemaker. I have to say yours look just as impressive.
I made my first knife about 2 years ago, but didn't really get into it until about a year ago. I've come a long way in that time, but I still have a ways to go to get to the level of your work!
you can never have too many tools
I made my first knife about 2 years ago, but didn't really get into it until about a year ago. I've come a long way in that time, but I still have a ways to go to get to the level of your work!
you can never have too many tools
vintage nut
Well-known member
Here's a little heat treating prep. I had ground a few A2 skinners today, and thought I'd take some pictures of my process incase anyone is interested. I'm going to grind a few more knives before I do a heat treating run. Generally like to do half a dozen at once.
Anyways, I start with 309 stainless tool wrap. Basically stainless steel foil that will stand up to the high temperatures and keep oxygen out and prevent scaling.
Fold the foil into a little pouch, double folding all the seams and sealing them tight with a wooden mallet. I also add in a piece of a paper grocery bag to consume the oxygen.
And here it is all ready for heat treat
And here's a new knife I'm starting. A 10.5" roast carving knife. 1/8" A2 tool steel (my usual) gonna be a full flat grind, probably down to 8-10 thou at the edge. I'm going to try doing front and back bolsters on the handle. Haven't done that before, only front bolsters. I have a few pieces of oak burl that should make a really nice handle for it!
you can never have too many tools
Anyways, I start with 309 stainless tool wrap. Basically stainless steel foil that will stand up to the high temperatures and keep oxygen out and prevent scaling.
Fold the foil into a little pouch, double folding all the seams and sealing them tight with a wooden mallet. I also add in a piece of a paper grocery bag to consume the oxygen.
And here it is all ready for heat treat
And here's a new knife I'm starting. A 10.5" roast carving knife. 1/8" A2 tool steel (my usual) gonna be a full flat grind, probably down to 8-10 thou at the edge. I'm going to try doing front and back bolsters on the handle. Haven't done that before, only front bolsters. I have a few pieces of oak burl that should make a really nice handle for it!
you can never have too many tools
893cv
Well-known member
Junebuggy,
Long after you (and the rest of us) are gone, your work will still be speaking well of you. Thanks for starting this thread.
Long after you (and the rest of us) are gone, your work will still be speaking well of you. Thanks for starting this thread.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Vintage: that process you are doing when you heat treat your blades is interesting and looks great in between the Morgan and Rock Island vises.
i mentioned on the craftsman block grinder thread to Doc Block our resident block guru that you might know the best way to clean a file. if you or anyone else does please post the method on that thread because i heard those metal file cleaners aren't the best method.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157794
JB: love the story about the laptop being a TV tray. we're very happy you joined our forum and anytime you have time to show more of your pictures of knives, vises or tools is just fine by us. we also want to hear how you do those interesting patterns which i imagine are not very easy to do.
Bob: if you want to post pictures i use the paper clip method just above where you are writing your posts to attach pictures like you would on an email. also if you might want to put a picture of one of your knives or something you like under your name like where my buffalo is you can go in your profile and click on Avitar and download the picture.
thanks for all your wisdom and knowledge
i mentioned on the craftsman block grinder thread to Doc Block our resident block guru that you might know the best way to clean a file. if you or anyone else does please post the method on that thread because i heard those metal file cleaners aren't the best method.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157794
JB: love the story about the laptop being a TV tray. we're very happy you joined our forum and anytime you have time to show more of your pictures of knives, vises or tools is just fine by us. we also want to hear how you do those interesting patterns which i imagine are not very easy to do.
Bob: if you want to post pictures i use the paper clip method just above where you are writing your posts to attach pictures like you would on an email. also if you might want to put a picture of one of your knives or something you like under your name like where my buffalo is you can go in your profile and click on Avitar and download the picture.
thanks for all your wisdom and knowledge
johno
Well-known member
A few years ago I dabbled with Mokume and made a couple bolsters. I know how difficult making it can be. It truly tried my patience and that takes a lot to do. This is my own personal folder I made a few winters back although, I never carry it...just look at it like the Indian Chief, Lone Watie did his rock candy on the movie Outlaw Josey Wales . The vine pattern took some time but, it was something I wanted for sure once I learned how to do it. I used some very small jeweler files and a BIG magnifying light lamp!!
I heat colored the blade and used some really nice exhibition burl walnut wood as well as anodized the liners.
Thank You so much for the compliments. I believe I've made over 1300 blades over the years and this is my pride and joy.
Beautiful piece, really.
What are the 2 pieces inside the bolsters and walnut, looks like inlay almost?
I don't know the proper name, sorry.
That's in the pic of knife on it's back, edge up.
vintage nut
Well-known member
Drives, I made a post in the block thread. I have to say those blocks are not actually my favorite grinders. The only blocks I really like are the much older black and decker ones. I'm really a baldor fan, especially the older ones where they were cast iron. And other brands of old round body grinders. Still looking for a Baldor grinder for myself... My dad has two (one cast iron baldor, and one aluminum one that was relabled a rockwell) and I have a Baldor buffer. Even though baldors are expensive, they're what I'd want.
you can never have too many tools
you can never have too many tools
johno
Well-known member
Liners, that would be them alright.
A very nice detail, you have a good eye for design and detail.
Not just a good smith.
A very nice detail, you have a good eye for design and detail.
Not just a good smith.
Sweet.baby.Jesus........
I'm just in awe. Does anyone offer education/courses on this, something like gunsmithing?!?! I've got my grinder-in-a-box up and going, but I think it's time for a forge....!! Not that I'm even dreaming of producing anything in this league, but damn....just damn beautiful stuff....
I'm just in awe. Does anyone offer education/courses on this, something like gunsmithing?!?! I've got my grinder-in-a-box up and going, but I think it's time for a forge....!! Not that I'm even dreaming of producing anything in this league, but damn....just damn beautiful stuff....
Bob Warner
Active member
DRMARKR,
You have one of the best right in your town.
http://www.taigooknives.com/maxpages/Contact_Information
I believe he gives classes.
DRIVESITFAR
Thanks for pointing it out, I did not see the paperclip on the Quick reply location. Did not know I could imbed the photos on this site, that makes things easier.
Will change Avitar as well.
Thanks for the help
ALL: I will begin posting some how to stuff and tips and tricks soon. It finally stopped raining in Dallas area and I have to do what I can outside before it starts raining again. We have lakes more than 20ft above normal. I work slow due to injuries so it may take me a bit but I'll put them up.
Bob
You have one of the best right in your town.
http://www.taigooknives.com/maxpages/Contact_Information
I believe he gives classes.
DRIVESITFAR
Thanks for pointing it out, I did not see the paperclip on the Quick reply location. Did not know I could imbed the photos on this site, that makes things easier.
Will change Avitar as well.
Thanks for the help
ALL: I will begin posting some how to stuff and tips and tricks soon. It finally stopped raining in Dallas area and I have to do what I can outside before it starts raining again. We have lakes more than 20ft above normal. I work slow due to injuries so it may take me a bit but I'll put them up.
Bob
Mud
Well-known member
You beauty! 
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Bob: best of luck with all that extra water and the problems it caused. it sounds like you got our (Seattle's) weather this year. just ask if you need any help or you can PM (private message works like internal email) me if I don't see the question, but i try to check this thread at least daily to see all the cool stuff you guys have and still make.
cheers
cheers