Let's see your axes

[jonshonda]

@Mike'smeatshop great find on the double bit. To me it looks like you have a lot of room to refit the head on that handle. Reference the catalog photos and you will note the head is riding pretty high on that handle.

Found this axe and an older craftsman at a local vintage store or as they call it "consignment store". Which is basically a big building, and people rent a booth space and sell their ****. Anywho despite the labels still being mostly intact, which would typically indicate minimal use one would think....the handle had seen better days. Chunks missing from overstrikes, and the **** of the handle had some damage too. The head was loose and had build up a pretty pronounced shelf.

Well, nothing a chisel, hammer, spoke shave, 120/220 grit sandpaper and a few hours of time can't fix right! Still need to find a wedge, correct the cutting edge profile, sharpen, and oil. But I think this one might be a wall hanger. Now to make space on a wall....hmm maybe over the headboard in the master bedroom?

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

@Mike'smeatshop great find on the double bit. To me it looks like you have a lot of room to refit the head on that handle. Reference the catalog photos and you will note the head is riding pretty high on that handle.

Found this axe and an older craftsman at a local vintage store or as they call it "consignment store". Which is basically a big building, and people rent a booth space and sell their ****. Anywho despite the labels still being mostly intact, which would typically indicate minimal use one would think....the handle had seen better days. Chunks missing from overstrikes, and the **** of the handle had some damage too. The head was loose and had build up a pretty pronounced shelf.

Well, nothing a chisel, hammer, spoke shave, 120/220 grit sandpaper and a few hours of time can't fix right! Still need to find a wedge, correct the cutting edge profile, sharpen, and oil. But I think this one might be a wall hanger. Now to make space on a wall....hmm maybe over the headboard in the master bedroom?

That is a beaut. I like the headboard idea. Just don't rock the boat. We may be reading about a murder. I have no Craftsman. It looks so much like a Norland.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Anyone have a idea where Belnap got the numbering system? It is marked 32 but it weighs 3.6 pounds. I have looked on feebay and there are a bunch marked 32 and their weight between 3.5 to 3.8 pounds. Thanks.

 

[2oolhound]

Nice to see those wedges in the catalog but whats more intriguing is the stone wedges. I've never heard of a stone wedge and I can't hardly imaging hitting one with the back of an axe. They don't have much of a tapered point on them so perhaps they had a different use.

Congrats on finding that axe, it looks like a real beauty!

 

[shanny19]

Anyone have a idea where Belnap got the numbering system? It is marked 32 but it weighs 3.6 pounds. I have looked on feebay and there are a bunch marked 32 and their weight between 3.5 to 3.8 pounds. Thanks.

First number is pounds, second number is quarters of pounds.
32 equals 3 and 2/4.
33 equals 3 and 3/4.
and so on.
Many others used this system, True Temper, Mann, etc.
Most Boys Axes are 21 or 2 1/4 lbs. Most Pulaskis are 33 or 3 3/4 lbs.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

First number is pounds, second number is quarters of pounds.
32 equals 3 and 2/4.
33 equals 3 and 3/4.
and so on.
Many others used this system, True Temper, Mann, etc.
Most Boys Axes are 21 or 2 1/4 lbs. Most Pulaskis are 33 or 3 3/4 lbs.

Thanks shanny. That makes a lot of sense.

 

[jonshonda]

I was digging through the Belnap catalog and found the miter saw I have, but I don't recall it being a Belnap. haha

 

[Outlawmws]

This should be the theme song for this thread:

Run to the bedroom
In the suitcase on the left
You'll find my favorite ax
Don't look so frightened
This is just a passing phase
One of my bad days

 

[shanny19]

This should be the theme song for this thread:

Run to the bedroom
In the suitcase on the left
You'll find my favorite ax
Don't look so frightened
This is just a passing phase
One of my bad days

Van Halen, A.F.U :

 

[rdenney]

Well since I live in Ky I have been trying to trade with fellows here since I started this group. Finally found a Blue Grass Belknap Phantom Belvill double bit axe without giving my right arm. You see giving your right arm is tough and then I couldn't swing the axe. At our Peddlers Mall it was dirty facing in so you couldn't see the brand. The first few pics is how I found it. And some cleaning it up. The handle has some meat left to rehang it. But it deserves a new handle. Michigan Pattern. Thanks.

That looks more Dayton pattern to me, with its sharp heel and toe and relatively straight top. The Michigan pattern has a rounded heel and toe, which you can see in the catalog pic you included. Many companies supplied the same axe in various patterns.

Rick “who might give an arm or a leg in more than one way with a double-bit axe” Denney

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

That looks more Dayton pattern to me, with its sharp heel and toe and relatively straight top. The Michigan pattern has a rounded heel and toe, which you can see in the catalog pic you included. Many companies supplied the same axe in various patterns.

Rick “who might give an arm or a leg in more than one way with a double-bit axe” Denney

I somewhat agree it looks similar to a Dayton. But my Blue Grass manuals only sell Michigan, Kentucky and Jersey patterns. And It is not as flat as it looks.

 

[rdenney]

I somewhat agree it looks similar to a Dayton. But my Blue Grass manuals only sell Michigan, Kentucky and Jersey patterns. And It is not as flat as it looks.

Well, the double-bit heads are a little different, I suppose, from the single-bit types. But the diagram in the catalog page you posted has the classic Michigan-pattern rounded heel and toe.

Old axe heads have been sharpened a lot and may not have their original patterns, too.

Rick "nice axe in any case" Denney

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

I found this today on one leg. And I thought I had to have it, and thought I had a handle for it at home. Well no luck on the handle but may try to cut one down and Wittle a handle for it. I use to have one for propping up a log to keep the chainsaw nose out of the dirt.

 

[shanny19]

^^Last I looked, House Handle still stocked cant hook and peavey handles, and Peavey Manufacturing is also still in business, with a website.

 

[four.cycle]

anyone have any idea who made "OWL Quality" axe heads?

(not mine, btw. just trying to ID)

 

[2oolhound]

anyone have any idea who made "OWL Quality" axe heads?

(not mine, btw. just trying to ID)

OWL axe heads, they'd have a habit of flyin off the handle wouldn't they?

I found this today on one leg. And I thought I had to have it, and thought I had a handle for it at home. Well no luck on the handle but may try to cut one down and Wittle a handle for it. I use to have one for propping up a log to keep the chainsaw nose out of the dirt.

You've been holding out on us Mike. How about a pic or 2 of the timber toter? I've been looking for one of those for a while now. I passed up the ring-swivel assembly for $10 bucks a while ago and now I dream about it. Wish I'd bought it.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

OWL axe heads, they'd have a habit of flyin off the handle wouldn't they?


You've been holding out on us Mike. How about a pic or 2 of the timber toter? I've been looking for one of those for a while now. I passed up the ring-swivel assembly for $10 bucks a while ago and now I dream about it. Wish I'd bought it.

Too cold out side. I will get some pic tomorrow. People here in Ky are saying it's warmer up your way than it is here. What was your temp today? 30* F here.

I had an Owl years ago. And he did fly away.lol

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Too cold out side. I will get some pic tomorrow. People here in Ky are saying it's warmer up your way than it is here. What was your temp today? 30* F here.

I had an Owl years ago. And he did fly away.lol

He got *****. Literally

 

[2oolhound]

Our temp here is around 36F. We're on the centigrade system here so zero is freezing which is 32F. A couple days last week it went down to as low as -9 at night. I've had to turn the heat on in the house for the last 3 weeks now (just in 2 rooms though). Water froze outside, I had to put trouble lamps on my outdoor hose and tap and insulate them. Wouldn't you know some street person tried to steal a trouble light and ended up ripping the power cord out of the fixture. The next night they stole the blanket I'd wrapped around all the insulation I'd packed around the hose reel. At least they didn't mess up my insulation I'd cowled around the hose reel.

I fired up my propane forge for those couple of cold days so it was nice and toasty in the shop. It warmed up but still dropped to -1, -0 the last 2 nights and wouldn't you know we got a sprinkle of snow that covered the ground white and lasted 2 days! Usually if we want to see snow we have to go look in the parking lots to see some. Ya see guys come to town from over the pass from the high country, park in the lots and all the snow that's piled on their vehicles slides off onto the parking lots. We can usually count on seeing snow there at least for a day or two every year. (feeling bad yet?)

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Crazy weather. I am out of town near Cincinatti and it is 15*F here.

Do you use wood to heat your house?

When I was younger about 20 years ago, I use to tear down old Tobacco barns for a man who would create tables and flooring for his boss who would build Log Houses. The houses and furniture would be in those plan books that Lowes our lumber companies would sell. He would only buy from me because I would gently remove the nail. Boxing and all. I like what you do. You've got to build another. Let me know I will help.

 

[2oolhound]

I only have electric baseboard heaters.

I want to build 1 more log house ...for myself. We'll see if that happens, I'd have to sell out and move into the snow belt somewhere but I'm seriously considering it. I have years of projects here in my garage/shop to complete ideally before I'd sell and embark on such a project though. It might not ever happen, I'm liking learning to weld and forge etc too much but I'm tooling up at the same time too.

I love old barns. So much good wood in them. I like talking to the old timers (or should I say "I used to like talking to....) It's getting hard to find any old timers who actually built the old barns any more. I remember one fella who told me he and his sons built their barn in one day ...with broad axes (I bought one of his broad axes from him some time later). The next day the oldest son built the stalls inside and they did the roof.

 

[shanny19]

Just finishing these up for nieces n nephews. All vintage.
Unmarked boys, TT rafting, Plumb Michigan, TT Dayton, Weird beveled Connecticut marked only USA, Kelly Vulcan Michigan.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

I wanted to ask for a while now. Has anyone ever taken a axe head and blued it with gun bluing? How did it turn out? And did the bluing last?

 

[shanny19]

I would worry that the bluing would fail to hide, or might even enhance the appearance of the temper line(s). Now some might be just fine with that, myself I’d find it **** ugly.
When I’m doing up an old axe, it doesn’t go into evaporust or the like unless I’m 100% sure that the final finish will mask any revealed temper lines.

 

[shanny19]

Mike, here’s a pre 1959 4lb Red Warrior fresh out of de-rusting.
Sanding or buffing will remove the temper lines if desired, but something tells me bluing would bring them back. Maybe I’m all wet and it wouldn’t…….Maybe it would, and a hamon on an axe is just as cool as one on a katana.…..Shrug.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

I say what your seeing Shanny. I really like your temper lines. I wish someone would show one. I can always sand it off.

 

[bdbecker]

Right or wrong, cold bluing is my preferred finish. It can bring out the temper lines, but a couple of rounds of steel wool buffing in between can even the finish back out. Here are a pair of heads I cleaned up with pics at different stages of the process.

After vinegar bath (this was before I setup my electrolysis tank)

After wire brushing

After Birchwood Casey cold blue

I've since switched to Brownell's Oxpho-Blue and have been very happy with the results. My bottle of Brichwood Casey might have been old, but I've found I get a more even finish with fewer coats using Oxpho-Blue.

Oxpho-Blue

As far as durability is concerned, I can't really speak to that as most of the axes I've restored just turn into wall hangers. I do have a hatchet that has seen some use and still looks pretty good. I think if anything, the bluing will wear off the surfaces that make contact with the wood, but it's not a glaring/obvious transition. It just looks like any other axe that has seen some use. The nice thing about cold blue is that you can always touch it up later and blend it back into the unaffected area.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Right or wrong, cold bluing is my preferred finish. It can bring out the temper lines, but a couple of rounds of steel wool buffing in between can even the finish back out. Here are a pair of heads I cleaned up with pics at different stages of the process.

After vinegar bath (this was before I setup my electrolysis tank)

After wire brushing

After Birchwood Casey cold blue

I've since switched to Brownell's Oxpho-Blue and have been very happy with the results. My bottle of Brichwood Casey might have been old, but I've found I get a more even finish with fewer coats using Oxpho-Blue.

Oxpho-Blue

As far as durability is concerned, I can't really speak to that as most of the axes I've restored just turn into wall hangers. I do have a hatchet that has seen some use and still looks pretty good. I think if anything, the bluing will wear off the surfaces that make contact with the wood, but it's not a glaring/obvious transition. It just looks like any other axe that has seen some use. The nice thing about cold blue is that you can always touch it up later and blend it back into the unaffected area.

Yea. That is what I am looking for. Blue it the same way I would do my guns. I still have some Birchwood Casey left over. I am not thinking of ever using them again. Let the next guy decide that. I like to hang and display them like the others do with their old ratchets. Thanks, bdbecker.

 

[shanny19]

^^ Another alternative to protecting bare metal axes with colored coatings or clearcoat are the various
rust converting/reforming/neutralizing primers. They actually yield some pretty cool effects, if you’re open to adventure. Here is the Loctite version on an old Collins

 

[Gwizjames]

Can anyone tell me this manufacturer? Do I see a whale?
James

 

[Outlawmws]

Do I see a whale?

you do

 

[craftsman creep]

Found this today at my local junk store got it in a package deal with some other stuff all for $5

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Found this today at my local junk store got it in a package deal with some other stuff all for $5

Great deal. I watched one for a week at a flea market that wanted $20.00 and the wife wouldn't let me get it. And then it was gone. And I would have used it. Great find.

 

[Beerhippie]

This feller's axe wandered into the shop yesterday:




Complete with the "I don't understand materials and can't use an axe" duct taped, almost brand-new handle, secured with nails instead of wedges. The handle is marked (after removing most duct tape) with 7.50, indicating it's been a while since the handle was replaced. Unfortunately, the duct tape also conceals the rather shattered swell of the handle. Seeing as most of the original label adhesive is still on the handle, it didn't take long to royally screw it up. Blade is in similar shape, but worth saving.

Cleaning up a little, I found the maker's mark:



Apparently, the "chemical" refers to an anti-corrosion treatment applied during forging. The Sager patent goes back to near the turn of the century. Axe head would originally have been blue--more like paint blue than a chemical blue.

Not sure if 1942 is a DOM or model.

The guy who gave it to me saved it from a dumpster.

After checking out some sold prices for similar condition Sager axes, I'll be cleaning the head up. Too bad it showed up after I replaced the handle on my 6lb sledge yesterday, as it would have saved me $20 for a new handle for that.

I got the head off the handle without ruining anything and now the head is in the ultrasonic getting a buzz-bath with phos acid after a lye bath.

 

[Beerhippie]

Fresh out of the ultrasonic cleaner after 30 minutes in lye solution followed by 1 hour in phos acid. Both were very hot--180F--so the head dried instantly with no chance of "flash rust". The edge metal is black and the body gray, though the lighting doesn't show it well.



I hit it with some 4-0 steel wool and elbow grease to remove the acid staining, the used my blue blending wheels on my bench grinder to polish it up:



I've never been a big fan of polished axe heads, but once I get going.... I'm letting the thinned coat of BLO dry in the sun in prep for reprofiling and sharpening the edge. I need to find a good image of a Puget Sound pattern feller's head....

I may even be able to save the handle--if I can get the rusty wedges out. I managed to pull most of the nails.

BTW: The different colors/textures on the head are not simply differential hardening. They're actually two different metals, forge-welded together. There are two techniques I know of for doing this: A wedge of harder steel inserted into the ends of the iron body, or a steel cap over the iron body. This axe is the latter, as can easily be seen. The forge-welding where the iron body was wrapped around the eye mandrel is also visible.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Not sure if 1942 is a DOM or model.

It's a date. There are quite a few Sager axes on this thread, all different dates, with some discussion and a link to the Sager Axe page on Yesteryear's Tools, a great website for axes. If you search "Sager" with the "This thread" option you will find them all, including my post with the link.

 

[Beerhippie]

Thanks, Lugz. I did read most of those posts and had already found the YYT article before posting, but hadn't noticed that it was the DOM. The head also has 42 crudely and crookedly hand-stamped on the other side.

Still need to look up a good picture of PS axe head, but I'm on a knife-sharpening jag right now.

 

[Outlawmws]

Very nice find on he Knife Timm! That is a great size carry knife! You **** on that for $5!

 

[Beerhippie]

Very nice find on he Knife Timm! That is a great size carry knife! You **** on that for $5!

Wrong thread? But, yeah, it's perfect for a pocket carry--if you want $200-500 knife knocking around with your keys and ****.

The sheath has a nice pocket clip, but it fits the knife so tightly I can't pull it out without the sheath coming with it. Maybe some neat'sfoot oil....

 

[Outlawmws]

Wrong thread?

Oops!


back on thread:

I picked this one up a couple weeks back. I want to save the handle for that split, but other than that, and a wood screw very nicely countersunk flush with no hammering or splitting where a wedge belongs, its in pretty great shape!