Let's see your axes

[Outlawmws]

They're actually two different metals, forge-welded together. There are two techniques I know of for doing this: A wedge of harder steel inserted into the ends of the iron body, or a steel cap over the iron body. This axe is the latter,

I know of one other technique: Forging a hardened insert as an overlap to the base softer steel. The fairly common "Hewing hatchets" with one flat side, are made almost universally the same across many brands (and the hammer face is done the same), are one example in the ax/hatchet family, and Wiss in particular did the same with bench ships.

 

[crguy]

Fresh out of the ultrasonic cleaner after 30 minutes in lye solution followed by 1 hour in phos acid. Both were very hot--180F--so the head dried instantly with no chance of "flash rust". The edge metal is black and the body gray, though the lighting doesn't show it well.



I hit it with some 4-0 steel wool and elbow grease to remove the acid staining, the used my blue blending wheels on my bench grinder to polish it up:



I've never been a big fan of polished axe heads, but once I get going.... I'm letting the thinned coat of BLO dry in the sun in prep for reprofiling and sharpening the edge. I need to find a good image of a Puget Sound pattern feller's head....

I may even be able to save the handle--if I can get the rusty wedges out. I managed to pull most of the nails.

BTW: The different colors/textures on the head are not simply differential hardening. They're actually two different metals, forge-welded together. There are two techniques I know of for doing this: A wedge of harder steel inserted into the ends of the iron body, or a steel cap over the iron body. This axe is the latter, as can easily be seen. The forge-welding where the iron body was wrapped around the eye mandrel is also visible.

You killed any collectible value with that overcleaning. In the PNW those are falling axes, not feller's axes.

 

[Beerhippie]

You killed any collectible value with that overcleaning. In the PNW those are falling axes, not feller's axes.

Don't know about falling vs feller's--I've spent some fifty-odd years in the PNW--a lot in the woods--and have heard both tossed around. As for collectors value, it'll likely end up a wall-hanger here. Hell, I can throw it in the ditch out back for a month or so and restore the original finish if I want to.

 

[Beerhippie]

OK, stupid question du jour:

I've been looking at a lot of pictures of old Puget Sound pattern Feller's axes to try to find the original grind profile (good luck with that). One thing I immediately notice is that ALL of them have been peened on the sides of the eye--mine included.

What was up with that? I spent a fair amount of time around old-timer woodsmen back in the mid-twentieth century and don't recall ever being taught to peen the sides of the eye. Did this tighten up the handle? What was it for? User or factory?

Here you can see the peening on mine:



That's much less than some I found pictures of.

 

[crguy]

OK, stupid question du jour:

I've been looking at a lot of pictures of old Puget Sound pattern Feller's axes to try to find the original grind profile (good luck with that). One thing I immediately notice is that ALL of them have been peened on the sides of the eye--mine included.

What was up with that? I spent a fair amount of time around old-timer woodsmen back in the mid-twentieth century and don't recall ever being taught to peen the sides of the eye. Did this tighten up the handle? What was it for? User or factory?

Here you can see the peening on mine:



That's much less than some I found pictures of.

That's most likely from someone using the side of the axe as a hammer. It's not peening to tighten up the head. I've seen lots of axes without any of that type of damage.

 

[Outlawmws]

Probably from driving steel tent stakes.

 

[Beerhippie]

That's most likely from someone using the side of the axe as a hammer. It's not peening to tighten up the head. I've seen lots of axes without any of that type of damage.

I would agree with that--and Outlaw's interpretation--but the peening--usually round dents--is always on the sides of the eye--and seems to be the PS Felling pattern in particular. Maybe something involved with setting springboards? That seems to be one of the main uses of the pattern.

I'll try to steal some pictures tomorrow.

 

[crguy]

I would agree with that--and Outlaw's interpretation--but the peening--usually round dents--is always on the sides of the eye--and seems to be the PS Felling pattern in particular. Maybe something involved with setting springboards? That seems to be one of the main uses of the pattern.

I'll try to steal some pictures tomorrow.

You're grasping at straws and coming up empty handed. Think about it - if you were going to use an axe as a hammer what part of the axe head would you use?

 

[Beerhippie]

You're grasping at straws and coming up empty handed. Think about it - if you were going to use an axe as a hammer what part of the axe head would you use?

I would happily agree. But...

Looking a pictures of old double-bit axe heads, I see this frequently with the Puget Sound pattern, but rarely with other patterns. Plus, the peen marks are almost always round and convex--like the ball of a ball-peen hammer would leave.

So what were loggers driving with the side of the axe that was particular to the PNW big woods? I know those fellers (pun intended) were living rough back then, but I don't see too many tent stakes with domed heads.

 

[Beerhippie]

I would happily agree. But...

Looking a pictures of old double-bit axe heads, I see this frequently with the Puget Sound pattern, but rarely with other patterns. Plus, the peen marks are almost always round and convex--like the ball of a ball-peen hammer would leave.

So what were loggers driving with the side of the axe that was particular to the PNW big woods? I know those fellers (pun intended) were living rough back then, but I don't see too many tent stakes with domed heads.

BTW: There's a museum near here that commemorates the small logging town of Maxville, Oregon.

https://www.maxvilleheritage.org/visit-the-center

Maxville was an all-black community, as all the white loggers were off to the war in '42. I think this axe head will look good in their collection. I'll rehaft it and pass it on.

 

[Bulldog13]

Little side project

 

[FTG-05]

I drunk ordered this Council Tool Jersey Sport Utility Axe a couple weeks ago; it came in yesterday:







I need to take better pics of it.

 

[Beerhippie]

Here's a 1970s vintage Estwing 26" Camper's Axe I restored a year or so ago:





It was $5 at a yard sale, and looked like it had been stored half-submerged in a rain barrel. The head and shaft were badly rusted up to the red stripe I added--because there was no pint left there.

I tested it out:



Made a cover for it:



and it now lives in the rig for camping purposes.

 

[rustyedge1]

Just picked up the Craftsman Chrome Vanadium stamped in oval hatchet today from auction. Had a busted non original handle which I removed. Had steel slivers and about 6 small nails and a roofing nail to tighten up. Had to laugh...
Anyone know the date Craftsman used this marking ??
Interesting bit of info from Alloy Artifacts below.

In addition to the use of "Vanadium" as a brand, some Craftsman tools will be found with a "Craftsman Vanadium Steel" or "Chrome-Vanadium" marking. This type of usage is more of a descriptive term than a brand identification, and tools with these markings were likely produced before the "Craftsman Vanadium" brand became the standard. Currently we are assuming a 1930-1932 production range for open-end wrenches with these markings.

 

[2oolhound]

Another thought about the peening is the axe was stuck and some hammering was used to free it. I've split tons of wood in my day and my least sought after splitting axe would be a double bit axe for that reason. If you stick a single bit axe in a round you lift the whole thing up and come down hard on the back of the axe which usually splits the round or you grab another axe or some wedges to finish up but if you used a double bit axe you're screwed.
I could also see it being possible to get an axe stuck cutting spring board notches but I'd think the tool of choice to hammer it free would be a rock. I can't see a faller packing a ball peen hammer around. A spring board end or a steel wedge maybe. Dunno. Yours only has 20 marks which isn't much hammering. I'm thinking it's from people in more recent times doing other things with these axes.

We used to bury a double bit axe into a stump and use the sharp end to cut cable by pounding on the cable with a sledge. (I can feel everybody cringe, I know). I'm in the camp that polishes axes to a shine so they'll cut deep with zero friction. I do love seeing all these beauties everyone posts here though, it all shows appreciation for the tools and makers regardless of the presentation.

I had an Estwing just like that when I was falling and I loved it. This was in the time of chainsaws though. If you needed a spring board you cut one from a sapling. The estwing was nice if you got your saw stuck and had to chop yourself out otherwise short handled axes that wouldn't foul your leg when you walked were preferred for just pounding wedges. You lose a lot of axes when falling as when crawling through hardhack they'd get pulled out of your belt and could be impossible to find again. I got good at throwing the easwing because it was a nuisance to hold in your belt. You could look across a face of timber to judge bad leaners where you'd need it and toss it into that area. You could always cut a 2" sapling to pound wedges with if the axe was too far away.

 

[FTG-05]

I drunk-ordered this Council Tool Jersey Axe a couple weeks ago:





Edge as recieved:



Edge after about 2 minutes on my 2x72 grinder with 120 belt as very low speed:



It's razor sharp now!

I also bought a Council Tool Boy's Axe, but not drunk-ordering it. I actually went to a CT vendor near here (Wiseman Trading Company) and bought it direct from them, along with sheaths for both it and the Jersey Axe. Pics on those later.

 

[2oolhound]

FTG-05, that's an interesting handle with the white sapwood in front. I know some types of wood where the heart wood provides strength while the sap wood provides flex.

 

[FTG-05]

FTG-05, that's an interesting handle with the white sapwood in front. I know some types of wood where the heart wood provides strength while the sap wood provides flex.

It looks even better now since I BLO'd it.

 

[FTG-05]

Cut this tree down yesterday using my CT Jersey and Boy's axe. I used my Echo CS-501P chainsaw for the bottom cut of the face cut and then the back cut. I used the axes to make the upper face cut or notch. Pics:









Axes:





Thanks for looking!

 

[Farmer J.]

FTG-05, that's an interesting handle with the white sapwood in front. I know some types of wood where the heart wood provides strength while the sap wood provides flex.

This makes me think of the traditional medieval English Longbow made of Yew. They're made with the sapwood towards the outside of the curve, The heartwood resists compression and the outer sapwood performs better in tension.

English longbow - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Cut this tree down yesterday using my CT Jersey and Boy's axe. I used my Echo CS-501P chainsaw for the bottom cut of the face cut and then the back cut. I used the axes to make the upper face cut or notch. Pics:









Axes:





Thanks for looking!

Looks like Ash to me. Do that about 20 more times and have great firewood. lol.

 

[Beerhippie]

Looks like Ash to me. Do that about 20 more times and have great firewood. lol.

Or a **** ton of tool handles!

 

[2oolhound]

Good on ya FTG-05 for cutting out that notch with an ax! I know every time I tackle a task like that that I don't do every day I can get a little winded.
It's also nice to see a notch with a good angle on it. So many notches I'm seeing these days even from pro fallers are being cut at less that 45 degrees. Yours looks closer to 60. When you cut a notch less than 45 degrees it closes up to soon and can cause tension leading to a tree barber chairing which can be deadly.

 

[FTG-05]

Or a **** ton of tool handles!

Now that mention it, I think I will keep about 50" or so of the trunk just for handles. Thanks for the idea!

 

[FTG-05]

Made this axe rack a week or so ago; it's right near my grinder bench, so it's virgin now, but will soon turn to a mess.





I still have a couple more axes and hatchets to add, but that's it for now.

Thanks for looking!

 

[FTG-05]

Added this CT Velvicut Boys Axe to the stable yesterday. Here it is soaking up it's first coat of Raw Linseed Oil:

 

[Beerhippie]

I picked up an interesting hatchet today:



It was part of the $25 haul. The hatchet looked like junk to me, but I wanted the sheath.

When I pulled it out, I had an interesting find:





A Girl Scouts hatchet!

Does anyone collect Girl Scouts weapons?

The sheath is a good score, too:





WWII vintage. Made by Canvas Prod. of KC. Date is illegible.

 

[Beerhippie]

I've answered my own question: Yes, people collect GS hatchets!

 

[rustyedge1]

ID this shingling hatchet took a bit of searching American Axe and Tool Co pic from 1907 catalog. Non original handle which comes out in colder weather.
Interesting piece.

 

[Outlawmws]

Added one I need to do more research on:

DCH - (Dunham, Carrigan, & Hayden) S over F is for San Francisco - Clean Cut hewing head hatchet 4" blade, so pretty small (I only have one smaller in Hewing head), From what I have gleaned - Dunham, Carrigan & Hayden Company started in the Gold rush as a Hardware store - later was a hardware wholesaler in San Francisco from 1875 until 1946 this has the most impressive Company logo of all my hewing head hatchets.



This one will get a nice cleanup and new haft, maybe slightly longer than factory, but not the 28" I like on the bigger ones for a light camp ax. The remnant woos has the obligatory wood screw jammed i there. .

 

[BlackVersa2]

First post in this thread. I searched first and didn't see anything, but maybe I missed something obvious. Going to look more.
Picked up this Craftsman Vanadium axe today at a garage sale. With a set of 3/8" letter stamps for scale.

It looks like the back face was used as a hammer more than the cut edge was ever used. Wont take much work to get it sharp. 34.5" long.
Who made this? Thanks

 

[Beerhippie]

First post in this thread. I searched first and didn't see anything, but maybe I missed something obvious. Going to look more.
Picked up this Craftsman Vanadium axe today at a garage sale. With a set of 3/8" letter stamps for scale.

It looks like the back face was used as a hammer more than the cut edge was ever used. Wont take much work to get it sharp. 34.5" long.
Who made this? Thanks

That kind of mushrooming is more likely from someone using the axe as a splitting wedge. Seen it too often.

 

[Outlawmws]

Who made this?

Are there any letter codes on the ax head? Maybe a letter in a circle?

 

[Outlawmws]

That kind of mushrooming is more likely from someone using the axe as a splitting wedge. Seen it too often.

Or using it to pound on wedges...

 

[four.cycle]

That kind of mushrooming is more likely from someone using the axe as a splitting wedge. Seen it too often.

^ exactomundo. ruins the eye on the head when they do that - you'll never get a handle to fit properly again.

 

[BlackVersa2]

Shrug if it's junk that's OK, I'm into the letter stamps and ax for $10, I'm not hurt too bad as i needed the stamps. Thanks for the input. I didn't see any other markings. But I will look again. Thanks guys!

 

[Outlawmws]

If they managed to not eff up the eye, it's not junk, just dress down the mushrooming. It is fairly rare with that early Craftsman logo - Likely 30's as Vanadiium stopped use for non essentials for WWII.

 

[four.cycle]

^ depends upon how many years they've been hammering on it, for sure.

 

[Beerhippie]

The Girl Scout hatchet cleaned up nicely:





I went extremely easy on the cleaning as I'm hoping to sell this. The new owner can determine how clean they want it. I just removed the gross pitch boogers and gave the head a very light coat of BLO. I think the head was originally blackened, but hard to tell. It also has what appears to me to be the factory edge, and still fairly sharp--just a slight burr I might feel compelled to remove.

 

[Outlawmws]

Got two of my backlogged hatchets de-rusted:

before:







After -Note they both have inlaid blades::








The Clean Cut is getting a new haft, the "Cub" is getting it old haft refurbished, - Both had wood screw "wedges"