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Let's See Your Chainsaws

jonshonda

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Because I am curious and because I like upgrades, what chains do people like for cutting up red/white oak? I've got the safety chain that came with my MS250, and am looking for something more aggressive. I feel as though I go above and beyond to be safe while cutting, and think a little more aggressive chain might be ok.
 
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Rinspeed

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Because I am curious and because I like upgrades, what chains do people like for cutting up red/white oak? I've got the safety chain that came with my MS250, and am looking for something more aggressive. I feel as though I go above and beyond to be safe while cutting, and think a little more aggressive chain might be ok.



Why the hell they have so many of them is beyond me. I'm not a pro but the last couple I bought were the RSK, they work just fine as I'm sure all the others Stihl sells do.


https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/rsk/
 

jonshonda

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Why the hell they have so many of them is beyond me. I'm not a pro but the last couple I bought were the RSK, they work just fine as I'm sure all the others Stihl sells do.


https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/rsk/

Yeah I would interested to learn more about why they sell so many types. I had a dream last night that a storm went through and people needed help cleaning up their trees. I was so excited and in the dream I had a new chain to use for my saw!
 
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freudianfloyd

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I picked up three old Homelites the other day, and finally got these two running last night. The Super XL runs extremely well after putting in a new fuel line and rebuilding the carb. The little Super 2 needed a carb rebuild, new seals, new fuel and oil lines, and a clutch drum bearing.
View media item 106168
 
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freudianfloyd

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Yesterday I stepped up my chainsaw organization game.

My old method was full and took up way too much space and looked ugly and out of place. I had to keep adding new "trees" to handle all of my saws and it looked like this.
View media item 106515 Notice the weedeaters hanging in the back ground also, taking up even more space.

After trying to get a vehicle in my garage to work on it and not having room to walk around it, I decided to redesign the entire thing and made myself a "Great Wall of Saws"
View media item 106516
It takes up less space, it's not blocking my garage door, and my weed-eaters can hang off the backside between the bars.

If I get more saws though, I will have to make a second one, but there is room for one, so its not a big deal.
 

CHRIII

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NE TN
Great thread, very interesting!

Here are mine:

Poulan Super 25DA circa 1978
Stihl MS280 from 2007/2008

Both run well.

The Poulan's fuel cap's threads got buggered and it will not seal. I've looked online for a replacement, but apparently they are no longer available. Anyone got a lead on one (or two)?
 

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Bigblockyeti

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Just another 2x4 leg running perpendicular to the one that can be seen. This effectively forms a triangle support on the floor within the CG of all chainsaws fall. I made it only a little bigger than it needs to be, it was really just a proof of concept made with **** I had laying around but worked well enough I see no need to make a nicer one.
 

Bigblockyeti

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I was talking about the big red object at the base of your structure. :)

That's a big ole Homelite 500, it's detailed in post 192. It was mounted inboard of the leg to keep it as low as possible, both for stability and fitting as many saws as possible, there's only 1/2" at the most between each saw.
 
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Fatboy148

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Feb 15, 2017
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999
That's a bit ole Homelite 500, it's detailed in post 192. It was mounted inboard of the leg to keep it as low as possible, both for stability and fitting as many saws as possible, there's only 1/2" at the most between each saw.

I had read that post and didn't put two and two together. I am going to do some more ciphering and see if there is a way I can facilitate a chain saw tree by integrated it into my pallet rack upright post. My first thought was ruled out when I took a look..... :(
 

bob15

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Hope this isn't a stupid question - what do you mean by "over bar"?

Too big a bar for the engine so it is under-powered, especially when cutting hardwoods such as red oak & locust.

Example: 35-40cc saw with a 16" bar on it or a 45cc saw with a 20" bar on it.

I find the 55-65cc engine is best with a 16" bar
70cc = 20" bar
80cc= 24-28" bar
100cc+ = 32" and up bar

Yes I know people will say I run a 24" bar on a 60cc engine and it cuts so great.....but put a slightly small bar and it will cut circles around it.
 

redmondjp

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Love my 261.. I suspect lots of folks don’t sharpen their chain well, and probably over bar.

There is no such thing as over bar, if you use your saw properly. I am sitting here with my brand-new Echo CS-361P that I ordered with a 16" bar. It will be used for limbing and thinning in thick underbrush. The longer the bar, the better in this case. Sure, people will say that it runs best with a 12" bar on it, but that's 4" longer that I have to reach out with the saw then.

Watch Buckin' Billy on youtube with his bars. He can walk down a felled tree and limb it w/o having to bend over. That is really important as you get older.

There are a lot of reasons why people use a longer bar, besides to cut bigger wood.
 
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NUTTSGT

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There is no such thing as over bar, if you use your saw properly. I am sitting here with my brand-new Echo CS-361P that I ordered with a 16" bar. It will be used for limbing and thinning in thick underbrush. The longer the bar, the better in this case. Sure, people will say that it runs best with a 12" bar on it, but that's 4" longer that I have to reach out with the saw then.

Watch Buckin' Billy on youtube with his bars. He can walk down a felled tree and limb it w/o having to bend over. That is really important as you get older.

There are a lot of reasons why people use a longer bar, besides to cut bigger wood.



When I switched my MS290 from a 16" bar to a 20" bar. My back said thank you, thank you, thank you. Cutting that small 2-3" small stuff on the ground killed my back.
 

NUTTSGT

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Get to posting, there is no cooler tool than a chainsaw!

Had to get the pics uploaded. :beer:


My first saw was a Pullin' (appropriately named). All I ever did was pull and try to start that damn thing. It took a 30-40" flight across the yard. It was given to the neighbor as a parts saw.

I then picked up a Stihl MS 290 Farm Boss with a 16" bar and swapped it over to a 20" several years ago. This saw is about 17-18 years old.

WwIfggO.jpg
 

NUTTSGT

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In the mean time, we had one of the department saws die. I bought from the Stihl dealer what he gave us as trade in price $30. It sat for a few years until recently. I bought a rebuilt kit from Saw Again. New crank, rod, piston and cylinder. Agent 044 will live again, some day.

99skByE.jpg



Then came the new saw. I wanted to step up and hadn't bought the rebuild kit yet. I checked out a few HD rental Dolmars to add a big bore kit but nothing worked out. I debated on what saw to buy next. I about bought a MS391 but decided to go a slight bit up the scale to a pro saw.

My newest saw and haven't even got to break it in. Weather broke, parents started a build and I started my addition. It's a MS362 C-m with a 25" bar.

7aI3K5k.jpg
 
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freudianfloyd

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There is no such thing as over bar, if you use your saw properly. I am sitting here with my brand-new Echo CS-361P that I ordered with a 16" bar. It will be used for limbing and thinning in thick underbrush. The longer the bar, the better in this case. Sure, people will say that it runs best with a 12" bar on it, but that's 4" longer that I have to reach out with the saw then.

Watch Buckin' Billy on youtube with his bars. He can walk down a felled tree and limb it w/o having to bend over. That is really important as you get older.

There are a lot of reasons why people use a longer bar, besides to cut bigger wood.

Bar length typically only becomes a problem when running a long bar completely buried in wood. If just limbing, you are only using a small section of chain at one time so it isn't such an issue.
 
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freudianfloyd

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When I switched my MS290 from a 16" bar to a 20" bar. My back said thank you, thank you, thank you. Cutting that small 2-3" small stuff on the ground killed my back.

you cant go wrong with a Farmboss. The 029 and 290 are my dads go to saws and have been for years.
 
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freudianfloyd

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In the mean time, we had one of the department saws die. I bought from the Stihl dealer what he gave us as trade in price $30. It sat for a few years until recently. I bought a rebuilt kit from Saw Again. New crank, rod, piston and cylinder. Agent 044 will live again, some day.

99skByE.jpg

Then came the new saw. I wanted to step up and hadn't bought the rebuild kit yet. I checked out a few HD rental Dolmars to add a big bore kit but nothing worked out. I debated on what saw to buy next. I about bought a MS391 but decided to go a slight bit up the scale to a pro saw.

My newest saw and haven't even got to break it in. Weather broke, parents started a build and I started my addition. It's a MS362 C-m with a 25" bar.

7aI3K5k.jpg
be careful, rebuilding saws is highly addictive. Good luck with the 044. I havent run one, but I know they are very desirable.
 

PCustoms

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VT
Just used my 261c today. It sure rips! a845ce81d7408357feeec3aa877cf3e4.jpg

Don't take this the wrong way, but you should read up on some felling techniques before using it again. Lucky that didn't give you issues.
 

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Fatboy148

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There is no such thing as over bar, if you use your saw properly. I am sitting here with my brand-new Echo CS-361P that I ordered with a 16" bar. It will be used for limbing and thinning in thick underbrush. The longer the bar, the better in this case. Sure, people will say that it runs best with a 12" bar on it, but that's 4" longer that I have to reach out with the saw then.

Watch Buckin' Billy on youtube with his bars. He can walk down a felled tree and limb it w/o having to bend over. That is really important as you get older.

There are a lot of reasons why people use a longer bar, besides to cut bigger wood.


I have a 360 and I believe the 360 is rated for up to a 16” bar. If you were to put a 18” or 20”, that in my opinion is what the previous poster was referring to as “overbaring” the saw
 

thr3squared

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CA
Too big a bar for the engine so it is under-powered, especially when cutting hardwoods such as red oak & locust.

Example: 35-40cc saw with a 16" bar on it or a 45cc saw with a 20" bar on it.

I find the 55-65cc engine is best with a 16" bar
70cc = 20" bar
80cc= 24-28" bar
100cc+ = 32" and up bar

Yes I know people will say I run a 24" bar on a 60cc engine and it cuts so great.....but put a slightly small bar and it will cut circles around it.


Ok thanks for explaining that. I had a feeling it was along those lines.

I can see both sides of the argument that everyone is mentioning here. Yes having the extra reach can be beneficial, but when the bar is buried you can quickly bog down the engine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

bob15

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Dec 8, 2011
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Northeasten, CT
Where are the old saws?

Like Mac? That's a cuttin' saw...

I have some pictures on post # 124

Here are a few Mac 82cc saws, from oldest to newest with new bars on them.

L to R SP80, SP81, PM800, DE80, PM8200
 

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Ralf11

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....
 

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