Ton ton
Well-known member
I have not heard some one complain about the dogs slipping before. That is a new complaint for me. I cut cured logs - different set of issues for me.
Let's See Your Chainsaws
- Thread starter freudianfloyd
- Start date
Jack84
Well-known member
Nice saw, I have the 251 which is the european equivalent I think.
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Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Jack84
Well-known member
Got the 441 a while ago. Bought it used.
thr3squared
Well-known member
OP
freudianfloyd
Well-known member
First chainsaw here...Stihl 250. Not the biggest or the baddest but I got to put in through the paces a bit felling a couple decent sized trees (had some experienced guys guiding me through it) and was very happy with it. I definitely have a lot to learn.
I did notice however that on wet logs with thick bark the fell dogs (bumper spikes) sank in and then didn’t grip much. Without going too nuts are any larger ones interchangeable from other Stihl models? I read some bad remarks about the ones from Piltz.
Through some of my research I came across the forum on ArborSite. Anyone else on there?
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Unfortunately, I can't answer your spike question, but I can say that the MS250 is my Grandpas favorite saw that he has used for years around his farm.
And I am also on Arboristsite.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Gave up the big ones and use my Ryobi 18v chainsaws now. I own three so usually always have one with a sharp chain and they cut nearly anything.
Bigblockyeti
Banned
I bought a McCulloch Super 2-10 automatic a little while ago thinking it would be a great resto project. It was for a very silly reason; I really like the right side start saws, being an older made in USA saw meant I there would be no metric fasteners on it so I would only need one set of allen keys and sockets. The guy wanted $35 and said it ran. The problem is it needs no restoration, it all works perfectly and looks to be in great shape too. I've run it only a few times as I typically have 40:1 in everything and knowing this is supposed to be somewhere between 16:1 and 32:1, I just poured more oil right into the gas after filling it a little with my normal mix. It runs fantastic and my only reservation in using it is that it has no brake. I'll have a picture posted in a bit after I clean all the dust off.
I’ll have to get some pics, but I’ve got an 034 Super that I picked up for $100, put a muffler and air cleaner on it and I’ve used the snot out of that thing. It my favorite saw.
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freudianfloyd
Well-known member
I have to agree they are amazing saws for their size.
Tried to get the old Husqvarna 50 running. I cleaned the carb, replaced the fuel hose and filter. I could only get it to run for 2 seconds before it dies. I think the floats in the carb are shot. I might replace unless someone has any better ideas. I took out my MS251 stihl bar and chain out of the mineral spirits and hang dry them in the shop.
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Bigblockyeti
Banned
bob15
Well-known member
Your Mac (along with all -10 series saws) are supposed to run at 40:1.
The older saws such as the 5-49 & 7-55 (16:1) and the PM800/805/DE80 and SP80/81/105/125 (32:1) ran a richer mixture. That being said all my PM800 & DE80 and SP-125 all run at 40:1 as oil technology has improved over the past 50 years......
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freudianfloyd
Well-known member
Cool old saw. According to Acres, it looks like the manufacturer recommends 20:1. New 2 stroke oils may not require such a high ratio though.
Here is a little info on it for you.
http://acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/e35f4988a0df72d488256b6100194537?OpenDocument
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freudianfloyd
Well-known member
Not sure what you are referring to by floats, but chances are the diaphrams in the carb have dried up especially if it has sat with ethanol gas in the carb. They should be rubbery, usually after they sit and dry out the crackle when you flex them.
It is also possible the impulse line is dried out. If you didnt know, it is usually a rubber hose that causes the fuel pump in the carb to pump. If it has cracks or if it is broken off, it will not pump fuel.
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Floats, in the carb, not. The diaphram in the carb may be brittle and non functioning. Carb kit is cheap enough.
Bobcat753
Well-known member
Here are most of the saws i have had from past and present. Past saws include the Husqvarna 390XP and 2100CD. Also a Stihl MS271. Current saws are my Husqvarna 3120Xp, 562XP and T540XP. I also have some vintage Olympic saws and McCulloch saws.
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freudianfloyd
Well-known member
Although I have no use for one, a 3120 is on my must find list. They just never seem to pop up for sale cheap around me.
Bobcat753
Well-known member
It was on my must find list for very long time. I finally put out a CL ad looking for one and a month later a guy about 15 minutes away from me had it and was willing to sell it. I ended up paying $850 for it without a bar and chain. It has been an awesome saw to own. I just used it this past week to cut down some big stumps, 30" diameter +, and it didn't even hesitate.
InjectorService
Well-known member
Sthil 039 - Ported
Husky 51/55 Conversion - Ported
Husky 2100 - Gone Now
Husky 51/55 Conversion - Ported
Husky 2100 - Gone Now
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
These are the 2 saws I use on my tree farm (hardwoods):
1.) Homelite chainsaw. Bought new in 1983. For opening trails, girdling trees and cutting smaller junk trees/vines.
2.) Harbor Freight battery operated angle grinder with a carving blade. Mostly for girdling trees. Sometimes used for cutting smaller vines/junk trees. Easier to use, lighter & quieter than my chainsaw.
1.) Homelite chainsaw. Bought new in 1983. For opening trails, girdling trees and cutting smaller junk trees/vines.
2.) Harbor Freight battery operated angle grinder with a carving blade. Mostly for girdling trees. Sometimes used for cutting smaller vines/junk trees. Easier to use, lighter & quieter than my chainsaw.
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eschoendorff
Well-known member
I have a Stihl MS270 farmboss. Yeah, I know it’s not a pro saw but it does whatever I ask of it. Runs quite well with an 18” bar and the Duro carbide chain. Also have a yellow full chisel chain for it.
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dubdoc
Well-known member
Thank you ill check em out. Yesterday I got it to run for 10 seconds before it died.
bob15
Well-known member
Unfortunately, Arces site isn't the gospel people make it out to be. The Mac -10 series are, and have always been 40:1.
Below is a copy out of the Mac -10, Super Pro and G Series owner's manual (part # 85726).
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Bigblockyeti
Banned
I've relied too heavily on acres but it is a good assembly of information. Thanks for the snap shot of the manual, I mix my 2 stroke gas a little on the rich side usually between 38:1 and 36:1 and I'm using good oil so I'm confident I'll be safe.
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freudianfloyd
Well-known member
Yeah, I have noticed that on a few saws I have looked up. I will pay less attention to their recommendations for oil carb rebuild kits arent always correct either.
Its funny cuz I watched as two of my neighbors had 5 oak trees professionally removed last week, and as I watched them drop the saws on the ground from 12-18" while hustling to set up, I understood why some of us need pro saws, and some of use can live our entire lives with a MS270. Pro saws are meant to be used 10-12 hours a day, 5-6 days of the week during the prime season.
As I mentioned above, my neighbors had 5 decent sized oaks removed last week, the oldest having 80 rings. The second set of neighbors didn't want the wood from their 4 trees, so my neighbor and I agreed to cut and split the wood, and divide it between the two of us (1.5 cord maybe?).
Three of the trees were over 18" diameter, so I had to do back cuts to ensure I could get through the entire tree with my 18" bar. My MS250 wasn't a hot knife through butter, and it didn't take much muscle to bog it, but if I used some decent technique it worked out just fine!
And while the very first rule I think should be followed is to respect the saw and what it could do to you if something went wrong, knowing it isn't a massive powerhouse makes it more comfortable (easier on my nerves) to use.
This little MS250 has been thirsty and abused lately.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/49754876381/in/dateposted-public/" title="Stihl"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49754876381_dcd532dd36_c.jpg" width="800" height="779" alt="Stihl"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/49754876381/in/dateposted-public/" title="Stihl"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49754876381_dcd532dd36_c.jpg" width="800" height="779" alt="Stihl"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Bigblockyeti
Banned
Sounds like the saw got a workout for sure but did the job nonetheless. I just got a little Poulan, maybe 25(?) years old from my brother who got it from his FIL, it had little used and after a new fuel line, a new chain and a carb tune, it ran great. The sharp new chain was key, I spent the better part of 5 hours and 8 tiny tanks of gas putting it through it's paces on mostly 4"-6" pine and it work quite well. I was far less tire than I would have been swinging a 54cc saw around with an 18" bar to do the same thing, heck it my be my current favorite saw. Anything new (to me anyway) has a tendency to become a favorite at least for a little while.
Bigblockyeti
Banned
OP
freudianfloyd
Well-known member
Picked up another broke down MS290.
View media item 103421This one was super clean but was extremely hard to pull. Sounded really gritty. Figured it was a bearing. Took the muffler off and it was spotless inside.
Bought it and a Stihl blower that didn't run for $75 total. Put a new carb on the blower and it fired up and runs great. I'm keeping that one.
Took the saw apart and the crankcase was full of water. The crank bearings were definitely bad along with the connecting rod bearing. Bought a used one crank off of ebay. Put new bearings and seals in it, cleaned up the cylinder and piston and rings which had virtually no wear, and put her back together. Then pulled the carb apart and found this....
View media item 103422And the fuel pump side.
View media item 103423
Ive rebuilt a bunch of these carbs, some that have sat for 20 years that looked better than this..
I didn't even try to clean it or rebuild it. I put on an old carb off the last MS290 I rebuilt and she fired right up. Sharpened the chain and was cutting later that day. I will flip this saw and find my next project.
View media item 103421This one was super clean but was extremely hard to pull. Sounded really gritty. Figured it was a bearing. Took the muffler off and it was spotless inside.
Bought it and a Stihl blower that didn't run for $75 total. Put a new carb on the blower and it fired up and runs great. I'm keeping that one.
Took the saw apart and the crankcase was full of water. The crank bearings were definitely bad along with the connecting rod bearing. Bought a used one crank off of ebay. Put new bearings and seals in it, cleaned up the cylinder and piston and rings which had virtually no wear, and put her back together. Then pulled the carb apart and found this....
View media item 103422And the fuel pump side.
View media item 103423
Ive rebuilt a bunch of these carbs, some that have sat for 20 years that looked better than this..
I didn't even try to clean it or rebuild it. I put on an old carb off the last MS290 I rebuilt and she fired right up. Sharpened the chain and was cutting later that day. I will flip this saw and find my next project.
bulletpruf
Well-known member
My latest project - Jonsereds XF. My personal favorite saw -- beautiful lines, built from 1962-1969 IIRC, 110cc.
Went completely through it, new Caber rings, new fuel line, cleaned up points, etc. Runs pretty darn good on a plug that's probably 50 years old, too.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LAgL1FekH4c" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Went completely through it, new Caber rings, new fuel line, cleaned up points, etc. Runs pretty darn good on a plug that's probably 50 years old, too.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LAgL1FekH4c" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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freudianfloyd
Well-known member
View media item 103592
I was given this 346xp yesterday. It needs a new piston and cylinder, the rest of the saw, although dirty and worn, are all in pretty good shape. I am debating buying a new top cover as this one is broken on spots.
I ordered oem parts and will have this saw running by the end of the week.
I was given this 346xp yesterday. It needs a new piston and cylinder, the rest of the saw, although dirty and worn, are all in pretty good shape. I am debating buying a new top cover as this one is broken on spots.
I ordered oem parts and will have this saw running by the end of the week.
engineer2
Well-known member
OP
freudianfloyd
Well-known member
I posted this score yesterday on the yard sale post, but I was lucky enough to get them all up and running today, all with a variety of issues, but none that were too difficult to fix. I still need to get some better bars and chains, but so far I'm in love with the 2171.
Jonsered CS-2171
View media item 103675
Jonsered 2065 Turbo
View media item 103676
Husqvarna 550xp
View media item 103677
And a pair of MS170s (one was thrown is as a parts saw, but got them both running for no cost)
View media item 103678
Jonsered CS-2171
View media item 103675
Jonsered 2065 Turbo
View media item 103676
Husqvarna 550xp
View media item 103677
And a pair of MS170s (one was thrown is as a parts saw, but got them both running for no cost)
View media item 103678
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freudianfloyd
Well-known member
That's a cool sounding old saw.
I could use some help with my chainsaw. It's a Poulan 42cc with very little use on it. It was my dad's that he bought new and barely used. I've cut about two cords of wood with it and it's started bogging down under load. What might be causing this?
I checked and cleaned the air filter. I don't have a compression tester, but I checked compression by feel just by pulling the cord and it seems...not great. There's definitely some compression but it seems low.
So I took the spark plug out and looked in the cylinder with a flashlight. On the exhaust side, there's a definite score mark in the cylinder wall. Looking through the exhaust port with the muffler removed, I see a score mark on the piston too. What I can see of the piston overall doesn't look terrible, but it's scored. Is this the likely cause of the low compression and bogging under load?
I haven't been great about letting the saw warm up before cutting. Lesson learned. If this is the issue, I'm guessing it's not worth repairing?
Thanks in advance.
I checked and cleaned the air filter. I don't have a compression tester, but I checked compression by feel just by pulling the cord and it seems...not great. There's definitely some compression but it seems low.
So I took the spark plug out and looked in the cylinder with a flashlight. On the exhaust side, there's a definite score mark in the cylinder wall. Looking through the exhaust port with the muffler removed, I see a score mark on the piston too. What I can see of the piston overall doesn't look terrible, but it's scored. Is this the likely cause of the low compression and bogging under load?
I haven't been great about letting the saw warm up before cutting. Lesson learned. If this is the issue, I'm guessing it's not worth repairing?
Thanks in advance.
Bigblockyeti
Banned
Could be from low compression, the only way to really know is get or borrow a compression tester and see what you have. An air leak between the carburetor could also cause that symptom, as could a fuel line sucking air in.
Back the chain tension off a bit and douse the chain with some oil. See if it doesn't bog. A tight chain coupled with a weak oiler equals a Poulan that bogs down.
I just inherited my dads 16" homelite that he insisted he needed at 80 years old. Probably hasn't been used in 6 years.
I just inherited my dads 16" homelite that he insisted he needed at 80 years old. Probably hasn't been used in 6 years.
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bulletpruf
Well-known member
Here's a neat old saw that I just went through - Stihl 041G - gear drive - 61cc. Late '60's vintage.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ft1Q2DsG9EU" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ft1Q2DsG9EU" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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