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let's see your craftsman block grinders

McBrownie

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Mar 27, 2014
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Location
Cleveland, OH
Hi guys, see my comments in Blue.
It's not in the picture, but there was a 2nd one to the left forming/collapsing extending about 1/2 way from the cloud to the horizon.
I always thought that took cold air and warm water.
1st one I've seen in person.

They are scarier looking than they really are. Kind of like wimpy tornados. When they come off of the water and hit a tree, they might knock the tree over. But usually, the tree wins. Those blocks should do well on eBay. Probably pay for your gas. :thumbup:
 
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jask

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Jul 4, 2009
Messages
314
Location
Gods Country, B.C.
kind of rough looking but runs fine - has anyone seen a light like this one before?
This is a Canadian market model with English/French label and the goofy lock out switch.... early 80s?

35$ with a homebuilt stand filled with 80lbs of gravel.
 

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jrobb316

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May 18, 2014
Messages
1,377
Location
WI
I have 2 blocks that need the power cords replaced. Is there a source or are you guys making them?
 

torqueman2002

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Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
I'll often use old computer power cords. The heavy server class cords.
:thumbup:

Also, <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="363"><colgroup><col style="width:54pt" span="2" width="72"> <col style="mso-width-source:userset;mso-width-alt:2400;width:56pt" width="75"> <col style="width:54pt" span="2" width="72"> </colgroup><tbody><tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td colspan="2" style="height:14.25pt; mso-ignore:colspan;width:108pt" align="left" height="19" width="144">Coleman Cable 14-3</td> <td style="width:56pt" width="75">
</td> <td style="width:54pt" width="72">
</td> <td style="width:54pt" width="72">
</td> </tr> <tr style="height:15.0pt" height="20"> <td colspan="3" style="height:15.0pt;mso-ignore:colspan" align="left" height="20">6' Indoor Power Supply Cord </td> <td>
</td> <td>
</td> </tr> <tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td colspan="5" style="height:14.25pt;mso-ignore:colspan" align="left" height="19">Model Number: 09716 | Menards® SKU: 3702765</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
http://www.menards.com/main/electri...indoor-power-supply-cord/p-1462707-c-6410.htm
 

balane

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May 4, 2011
Messages
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Location
Pacific Northwest
Ugh, couldn't even spend 2 minutes with a roll of tape to save the badge. I haven't found any way to take paint off of one and leave the label in tact. Does anybody know a way to do that? Not the first time I've seen that unfortunately.

Price is good though. The eye shields are worth that much imo.
 

bagged89s10

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Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
Ugh, couldn't even spend 2 minutes with a roll of tape to save the badge. I haven't found any way to take paint off of one and leave the label in tact. Does anybody know a way to do that? Not the first time I've seen that unfortunately.

Price is good though. The eye shields are worth that much imo.


I 100% agree. I would go buy it for the shields and parts if it was closer to me.
 

bagged89s10

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Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
kind of rough looking but runs fine - has anyone seen a light like this one before?

This is a Canadian market model with English/French label and the goofy lock out switch.... early 80s?



35$ with a homebuilt stand filled with 80lbs of gravel.


I've never see the lockout switch before. $35 is a great price though. The light looks like it's aftermarket, unless the Canadian version had that style. I like the idea of having a wider tool rest.
 

Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,191
Location
The Badlands
Someone got spray paint happy.

Bench Grinder $20

http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/tls/5157074078.html
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439231531.594631.jpg

Ugh, couldn't even spend 2 minutes with a roll of tape to save the badge. I haven't found any way to take paint off of one and leave the label in tact. Does anybody know a way to do that? Not the first time I've seen that unfortunately.

Price is good though. The eye shields are worth that much imo.

Simple Green is your best shot. I've done it successfully, but its very paint dependent.
 

bagged89s10

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Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
It dawned on me that I've never done a block with any color so I wanted to experiment a little. The cast parts are metal flake blue and the trim pieces are in satin nickel. This grinder was capital U ugly when I got it.



I know the badge isn't age correct but that's my favorite Cman logo so that's what I used.



.


That came out really nice. Another great restore. What do you print your labels on, with?
 

balane

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May 4, 2011
Messages
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Pacific Northwest
Thanks. I use foil decal sheets in my laser printer.

I haven't had any luck on the paint removal with Simple Green in the past but, like you say Outlaw, I just haven't got lucky with paint style.
 

Outlawmws

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Messages
39,191
Location
The Badlands
SG works great to real god on ordinary house paint and fast rattle can jobs. I hit some Epoxy paint and that pretty much sneered at it. I eventually got it to work, but is took the SG soaked Paper towel, and saran wrap to keep it from evaporating and several days to soften the paint, then that was just enough to allow me to start picking it off, but some times it lifted the underlying paint.

I've soaked dead (House) paint loaded paint brushes in it and saved the brush. Its only really worth it if it's a top quality brush to begin with.
 

highland_hunter

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Joined
Aug 5, 2014
Messages
108
Location
NH
Just got my first C-man block grinder, a 1/4 hp 397.19400, for $20 off CL. Wondering if anyone knows of a source for the owners manual? Thanks in advance.
 

jrobb316

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May 18, 2014
Messages
1,377
Location
WI
Just got my first C-man block grinder, a 1/4 hp 397.19400, for $20 off CL. Wondering if anyone knows of a source for the owners manual? Thanks in advance.

Owners manuals are long gone, but as they surface some guys scan and post them to vintagemachinery.org Here is one that is close to yours, not the exact model number but nothing really changed anyways

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/2183.pdf
 

erty67

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Joined
Sep 30, 2012
Messages
1,151
Finally drank the koolaid! Just picked up this beauty for $20. Perfect replacement for the 6" harbor freight grinder I have been using. 397.19581

75c260ff52a36ebc3a492da8cdc12b7e.jpg

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk
 

harleybuilder

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Joined
Apr 4, 2014
Messages
287
Location
Southern IL
Just got my first C-man block grinder, a 1/4 hp 397.19400, for $20 off CL. Wondering if anyone knows of a source for the owners manual? Thanks in advance.


Finally drank the koolaid! Just picked up this beauty for $20. Perfect replacement for the 6" harbor freight grinder I have been using. 397.19581

75c260ff52a36ebc3a492da8cdc12b7e.jpg

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Welcome to the "blockheads" Doc Block aka-tm will be by shortly to show you the secret handshake. ....
 

McBrownie

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Mar 27, 2014
Messages
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Location
Cleveland, OH
Finally drank the koolaid! Just picked up this beauty for $20. Perfect replacement for the 6" harbor freight grinder I have been using. 397.19581

Erty,

Nice early 1970's round top! It may need new bearings, which is easy enough to do, but will cost almost as much as what you paid for the whole unit. :D It would be worth it though, as it will run for another 40 years.
 

erty67

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Sep 30, 2012
Messages
1,151
Erty,

Nice early 1970's round top! It may need new bearings, which is easy enough to do, but will cost almost as much as what you paid for the whole unit. :D It would be worth it though, as it will run for another 40 years.
Yea, I have to do my research on it now. It's really clean. It looks more worn from non use than being used. He started it up to show me it works and already seems smoother than my harbor freight one.

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torqueman2002

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Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Hey fellow Block-heads, see my comments in Blue. :thumbup:
It dawned on me that I've never done a block with any color so I wanted to experiment a little. The cast parts are metal flake blue and the trim pieces are in satin nickel. This grinder was capital U ugly when I got it.

I know the badge isn't age correct but that's my favorite Cman logo so that's what I used.
Blue%20Gray%20Block.jpeg

That is a great job and color combination. I like the badge!
.

Thanks. I use foil decal sheets in my laser printer.
Thanks for the tip.

Will these work?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UCO8RE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

What do you use?

I haven't had any luck on the paint removal with Simple Green in the past but, like you say Outlaw, I just haven't got lucky with paint style.
I've used citrus based paint remover with good results. If it is a foil style label, proceed with care and don't let the stripper sit too long (start with 5 mins, go longer if needed).

Just got my first C-man block grinder, a 1/4 hp 397.19400, for $20 off CL. Wondering if anyone knows of a source for the owners manual? Thanks in advance.
Congratulations and welcome!

To complete your induction, please see the following link for the official hand shake/pledge and warnings! :p
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4832270&postcount=5478

Does this look like your grinder?
FI%20P1080777.jpg


FI%20P1080778.jpg


Even if it does, we'd love to see pictures of yours.

Owners manuals are long gone, but as they surface some guys scan and post them to vintagemachinery.org Here is one that is close to yours, not the exact model number but nothing really changed anyways

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/2183.pdf


Thanks, I added that one to my 'library'. :thumbup:

Finally drank the koolaid! Just picked up this beauty for $20. Perfect replacement for the 6" harbor freight grinder I have been using. 397.19581

c24aafa3-70dc-453a-a413-113e10f26959.jpg


...
Nice!
Welcome to the forum and Block owners support thread.

See above for the Block-head hand-shake/pledge!
:thumbup:

Erty,
Nice early 1970's round top! It may need new bearings, which is easy enough to do, but will cost almost as much as what you paid for the whole unit. :D It would be worth it though, as it will run for another 40 years.
A grinder that is smooth and takes several minutes to spin-down, likely has dried out ball bearings. Also, it will give you the chance to verify the condition of the rest of the grinder.

See my signature for links to resources like the following:

  • parts
  • bearing replacement
  • restorations
  • cautions
Yea, I have to do my research on it now. It's really clean. It looks more worn from non use than being used. He started it up to show me it works and already seems smoother than my harbor freight one.
....
See my comments above. :thumbup:
 
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balane

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May 4, 2011
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Pacific Northwest

Yes, those will work just fine on a laser printer. I'm pretty sure those are the exact ones I ordered at some point in time. I've had several different brands and all were exactly equal in performance. My only tip is to run a white sheet of regular paper printing something with a lot of text first to make sure the printer head is clean. After you do that you should get good results.
 

G20-Budo

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May 31, 2013
Messages
987
Location
Chandler, AZ
Yes, those will work just fine on a laser printer. I'm pretty sure those are the exact ones I ordered at some point in time. I've had several different brands and all were exactly equal in performance. My only tip is to run a white sheet of regular paper printing something with a lot of text first to make sure the printer head is clean. After you do that you should get good results.

Balane,

Did you end up spraying a clear coat over the silver label after applying it to the block grinder? Just not sure how well the printed on lettering would hold up to actually use of the grinder?

Thanks.
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,008
Location
Pacific Northwest
Doc: now that Chevelle SS is a BIG BLOCK. was it a tad on the quick side for those passes?

it took me half a day to get the Red joke, but i think i finally figured it out.

BTW have you dunked your PINK Parker in the E tank yet??:D
 

torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
Doc: now that Chevelle SS is a BIG BLOCK. was it a tad on the quick side for those passes?

it took me half a day to get the Red joke, but i think i finally figured it out.

BTW have you dunked your PINK Parker in the E tank yet??:D
Nope, after I cooled down from the ride-along in the triple black big block I was thinking I'd do it today.

His Chevelle could use some heat management! It's OK above 20 MPH, but even yesterday {the Cruse is today, but for at least a week prior, the cars are making passes along Woodward. Today, it will be a 'parking lot' for the most part} there was a lot of stop 'n go.

Oh, it's RED! :thumbup:
 

balane

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May 4, 2011
Messages
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Location
Pacific Northwest
Balane,

Did you end up spraying a clear coat over the silver label after applying it to the block grinder? Just not sure how well the printed on lettering would hold up to actually use of the grinder?

Thanks.
I actually believe after a few minutes that laser ink sets in pretty well on these sheets. But I always put a clear sheet of laminate over the top for protection.
 

erty67

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Joined
Sep 30, 2012
Messages
1,151
A quick clean up and its looking pretty minus some minor scratches on the top of it. And smoooooth....oh my, it's so much smoother than what I'm used to. Still need to clean up the tray, but overall I'm more than pleased so far.

f68337ff8a0fc8bae3cdb523b5b7ce79.jpg


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McBrownie

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Mar 27, 2014
Messages
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Location
Cleveland, OH
A quick clean up and its looking pretty minus some minor scratches on the top of it. And smoooooth....oh my, it's so much smoother than what I'm used to. Still need to clean up the tray, but overall I'm more than pleased so far.

That cleaned up really nicely. What interesting is that it looks like you have part of a commercial tool rest on the left side. I wonder how that managed to get attached?

View media item 41515
 

erty67

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Sep 30, 2012
Messages
1,151
That cleaned up really nicely. What interesting is that it looks like you have part of a commercial tool rest on the left side. I wonder how that managed to get attached?

no idea. I noticed that as well. Didn't know if all 397.19581s came that way. Also, is the light supposed to always be on when plugged in? I couldn't find a switch for the light itself. :headscrat
 

McBrownie

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Mar 27, 2014
Messages
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Cleveland, OH
no idea. I noticed that as well. Didn't know if all 397.19581s came that way. Also, is the light supposed to always be on when plugged in? I couldn't find a switch for the light itself. :headscrat

Sounds like the lamp socket may have been replaced at some point with a non-switching one. The later block grinders ran the light off of the on/off switch, so the light was only on when the grinder was running. I had one of those and put in a switching socket. Yours would be an easy fix since the wiring is already setup for constant power to the light.
 

bczygan

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Nov 4, 2009
Messages
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Location
DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
3 blocks from my house.

The little auto repair shop.

Went there today to get a new radiator.

Sitting on a table, beat to hell, missing an eye shield, with the stone and wire wheels ground down to nubs, was a 1HP block!

Should have got a photo.

Bill
 

torqueman2002

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Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
3 blocks from my house.

The little auto repair shop.

Went there today to get a new radiator.

Sitting on a table, beat to hell, missing an eye shield, with the stone and wire wheels ground down to nubs, was a 1HP block!

Should have got a photo.

Bill
Buddy, as a fellow Block-head, I must advise you in the kindest yet firmest way - It Is Your Duty to Rescue That Block!

If you need help planning and executing an intervention (clandestine if necessary) let me know.
:3gears:
 

firemanast

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Nov 7, 2014
Messages
275
Location
Bentonville,AR
Just a group picture of three of my grinders and also my new car lift. :3gears:
 

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