let's see your craftsman block grinders

[LNKMK8]

Yeah, I figured the stand alone in the condition it was in should have been worth $100. I've got a decent 1/3 HP one sitting on my bench that I paid $30 for a few months prior. I guess that one will be my spare

 

[bubinga]

Here is mine that I picked up in December at an Estate Sale. I haven't had much time to do anything with it. The quench tray was corroded, so I repainted that. I plan to paint the eye shield frames with the same paint, replace the wheels with a wheel and brush, and leave the rest as is. Its still in nice original shape otherwise. Too bad the prior owner had to engrave his SSN right in the front of it

Stole it for $30 with the original stand... couldn't have been happier

In case you didn't already now, $30 for a Craftsman Commercial 1/2 HP with the stand is well into "you ****" territory.

Very nice find. I thought I was doing well at $50 for just a stand and $75 for a 1/3 HP with stand.

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Yeah, I figured the stand alone in the condition it was in should have been worth $100. I've got a decent 1/3 HP one sitting on my bench that I paid $30 for a few months prior. I guess that one will be my spare

Fixed it for You!

 

[torqueman2002]

Some sweet Blocks being posted!

That 1-HP of Ss' is a true testament to the quality of these simple machines.

Nice work all ya'll.

 

[cbacres]

Here's a CM Commercial I picked up. It's a 3/4HP. I forgot to take a picture of plate while I had the ugly switch box off. Can't believe they stuck two sheet metal screws through it.

Looks rough, but runs smooth. Looong wind down.. I bought online on Public Surplus, said it didn't run, guess they didn't plug in!

I wasn't even positive it was a 3/4, but the tool holder was pretty much a great indicator. I've been searching for one of these for a while now, finally found one.

 

[lafester]

Here's a CM Commercial I picked up. It's a 3/4HP. I forgot to take a picture of plate while I had the ugly switch box off. Can't believe they stuck two sheet metal screws through it.

Looks rough, but runs smooth. Looong wind down.. I bought online on Public Surplus, said it didn't run, guess they didn't plug in!

I wasn't even positive it was a 3/4, but the tool holder was pretty much a great indicator. I've been searching for one of these for a while now, finally found one.

Nice... Those seem to be very hard to find.

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[exmaxima1]

here are mine. The pre block is missing the left outside guard and in the inside guard is cracked. If anyone has pre block parts I’d be interested.

Very rare to see an outside guard on a 1/4hp Pre-Block. Most had NO outside covers. What size wheel does it have?

 

[lafester]

Just picked this one up for $40 on fb.
1/2 HP block, with unknown but actually decent stand.

Decent shape and only missing the tray. Will test this one with wire wheel duty and see if it should take a spot on the bench.



OK so it was making some weird vibrations even after I took off the wheels so I pulled it apart. Everything looks beautiful in there, but there is a little play in the bearings so I guess I'll swap them out.

Funny you see all these physically destroyed grinders that still run like new... One thing is it's pretty dry out here so we don't get the rust but we do get dried out bearings.

 

[1oldtimer]

Found in a dumpster in the 90's, it's been the polisher since then......every once and awhile it shocks you when you turn it on .

 

[Ss95003]

Some sweet Blocks being posted!

That 1-HP of Ss' is a true testament to the quality of these simple machines.

Nice work all ya'll.

It is amazing how well it still runs. This will be the first one I do a full restore on. Has a working light and the heavy duty base. Hopefully it will look new after I am done.

 

[Trey T]

Here's a CM Commercial I picked up. It's a 3/4HP. I forgot to take a picture of plate while I had the ugly switch box off. Can't believe they stuck two sheet metal screws through it.

Looks rough, but runs smooth. Looong wind down.. I bought online on Public Surplus, said it didn't run, guess they didn't plug in!

I wasn't even positive it was a 3/4, but the tool holder was pretty much a great indicator. I've been searching for one of these for a while now, finally found one.

I saw one of same model couple of years ago on CL and a member on here was couple hrs ahead of the game. It was only for $100 or so.

GJ!!

 

[lafester]

Put my new 1/2 hp back together and got rid of the vibration but I can hear some slight brushing when I spin it. Runs fine but seems to get a little too hot after it shuts down. I will have to pull it apart again and see what the deal is. I do like the extra power and it may be just enough for my needs if I can get it dialed in.

Update: new bearings installed and it's much better. I wouldn't call it completely smooth but could just be a random vibration in the housing. I am used to the 1/3 hp round tops that are built a little better plus smaller motor and they just hum so nicely.

Tested further and everything seems good. No longer gets hot and the vibrations are under control.

Of course I just found a much nicer one with the heavy duty tool rests and exhaust, also including the tray and original pedestal. All in like new condition. Unfortunately I absolutely have to sell a few things before I can even think about getting another full priced one. See pic below for that one (not mine, yet).

Looks like it's going to be mine! It will be running a pair of 6 in wire wheels until they wear out, then I'll find some nice 7 inchers to put on there.

Okay this is getting nuts. Just found a 1 HP, complete but with a cheap stand. Looks like it will clean up pretty easily but it is a kind of far away. See second pic. I think I would be pretty well set with these two on the double pedestal.

 

[Outlawmws]

Found in a dumpster in the 90's, it's been the polisher since then......every once and awhile it shocks you when you turn it on .

You need to either open it up and fix that OR test the circuit it is on with a (very inexpensive <$5) ground fault tester. Simple gizmo you plug in and it says what is wrong with the circuit if anything with three lights.

It could also be something else plugged into the circuit (happened to me; My DP was wired wrong (from the factory), and was back feeding AC to the neutral... )

So plug in the test gizmo and if it lights up a fault, unplug each thing on the circuit one at a time. If it shows you are good when one thing is unplugged, THAT is the problem child..

 

[imgntht]

Just picked up this model from an older neighbor. I believe it is a 1957 model based on the imprint of the front tag. Is that correct? I stumbled upon this thread while researching what exactly I had here. Had planned to sell it, but wondering if I should keep it for light duty work. I don't have a good work place for it, but seems like it is a well-liked model.

It runs smooth, no smoking, no noises. Long rundown time. Only visible damage is the outer cord insulator is cut open, but the wire inside is perfect. I only had it running for a few seconds to see if it worked.

Thought maybe I'd simply give it a repaint, tape up the cord and replace the buffer wheel. I'm not sure I'm up for a full restoration, but what else should I be looking for? What do your trained eyes see, that I am clueless on?

 

[drivesitfar]

IMG: the way they measure HP on the new grinders for sale your little PRE BLOCK Craftsman 1/4 HP might have as much power as the new 1/2's. tape up the cord if you don't want to replace it (an old printer or computer cord might be a good replacement if you don't want to buy a new one that is grounded). also since the stone is maybe 60 years old I'd replace it with a new one cause if it happened to get a small crack in it then it could explode when running and stones flying can kill you or put a big hurt on you or your shop.

some of the guys ALWAYS replace the bearings and that's entirely up to you, but I think they are cheap and not hard to replace if you have the skills and a few tools.

nice find!!

 

[cash68]

Just picked up this model from an older neighbor. I believe it is a 1957 model based on the imprint of the front tag. Is that correct? I stumbled upon this thread while researching what exactly I had here. Had planned to sell it, but wondering if I should keep it for light duty work. I don't have a good work place for it, but seems like it is a well-liked model.

It runs smooth, no smoking, no noises. Long rundown time. Only visible damage is the outer cord insulator is cut open, but the wire inside is perfect. I only had it running for a few seconds to see if it worked.

Thought maybe I'd simply give it a repaint, tape up the cord and replace the buffer wheel. I'm not sure I'm up for a full restoration, but what else should I be looking for? What do your trained eyes see, that I am clueless on?

Sweet find! I picked up a similar preblock a month or two ago, check it out:

1961 Preblock Grinder Restoration

I replaced the cord and repainted things, left the bearings as is because they were in great shape. It looks like someone cut one of your outer shields and removed the tool rest, maybe that is better for buffing?

 

[lafester]

Going to pick up a 1 hp in a few (see pic above). Not sure on the 1/2 hp yet. Waiting to coordinate a pick up time for that one and hopefully complete a sale on my 1/3 hp this evening.

Got it. Po drilled a few holes in the base and the wire wheel has left a nice gash but otherwise seems to be solid. Those 8 in wheels are huge! Won't get to play with it much until later tonight.

Oh $50 with home made stand. But I had a pretty long drive to get it.

 

[lafester]

Here's a few pics mostly showing bad spots. They put a sleeve on the arbor, hopefully it comes off clean. New holes in the base and miss matched hardware throughout. All pretty minor stuff. The inside looks nice and new which I like. No date on the bottom.

Went out and looked at the sleeve again and it came right off. I think it's just copper tube.



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[bubinga]

a little heat would of took it off, if not,
EDIT
Wow! That is clean inside!!

 

[bubinga]

Kind of OT, But I have dayton 8" grinder, needs a start cap.
I just took a cap off a free treadmill I'm scrapping, (got A nice heat sink for my KBIC-120 D/C motor control.
would the cap likely work if the uf is close, or is the one out of a treadmill (D/C) different?
I forget where it was wired in the circuit.

 

[EOC_Jason]

If the UF is close it should work. But buying a correct exact replacement isn't that much.

 

[exmaxima1]

If the UF is close it should work. But buying a correct exact replacement isn't that much.

If it's a capacitor from a DC power supply, it won't be non-polarized (AC type). He needs an AC motor start cap, uF within 10-20%, and any working voltage above 120vac. I agree, starting caps are VERY cheap nowadays since they are only in the circuit for a few milliseconds and don't have to be very good quality.

 

[bubinga]

If the UF is close it should work. But buying a correct exact replacement isn't that much.

If it's a capacitor from a DC power supply, it won't be non-polarized (AC type). He needs an AC motor start cap, uF within 10-20%, and any working voltage above 120vac. I agree, starting caps are VERY cheap nowadays since they are only in the circuit for a few milliseconds and don't have to be very good quality.

OK, Thanks Guys.
just figured if I had it already.
still have to open the Dayton up.
Probably housed in the base.

 

[lafester]

a little heat would of took it off, if not,
EDIT
Wow! That is clean inside!!

Thanks, yeah like I said it came right off. Going to pick up it's partner tonight and then I'm done until I can find the round top or pre block equivalents. I know I'll have to "settle" for a 3/4 if I ever find one.

Is there any way to tighten up the lamp socket to the neck? Both of mine are loose and I don't see how one would correct that issue. Also the 1hp has a separate switch for the light which is awesome and was wondering if anyone has converted one to work like that.

If anyone is curious I sold my 1/3 round top on generic stand with plastic eye shields for $100 pretty much the day it was listed. The second one will go up soon. The glass shields will stay with my blocks as I can't stand the plastic ones.

 

[exmaxima1]

Thanks, yeah like I said it came right off. Going to pick up it's partner tonight and then I'm done until I can find the round top or pre block equivalents. I know I'll have to "settle" for a 3/4 if I ever find one.

What do you mean done? You will then move to the next tier of grinders, the Baldors/Doerrs/Milwaukees/Rockwells/Wissotas/vintage stuff and dump all those block grinders....But if you find a 1/2hp Pre-block with deluxe base, it might satisfy that itch until you make the transition.

 

[JZiggy]

The person that put the sleeve on the shaft had a good idea. These shafts often have very small shoulders for the inner flange washer to sit against. My preferred solution is to clamp on a 17mm shaft collar very slightly outboard of that little shoulder to give the washer something more solid to rest against.

 

[lafester]

The person that put the sleeve on the shaft had a good idea. These shafts often have very small shoulders for the inner flange washer to sit against. My preferred solution is to clamp on a 17mm shaft collar very slightly outboard of that little shoulder to give the washer something more solid to rest against.

I agree, I was just initially worried that it had fused itself to the arbor. The bad thing is the large original disks that clamp the wheel were replaced with washers on that side. And the washers are not even the correct diameter for the arbor. I've seen your pics and that clamp looks nice. Your 1hp build was epic.

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[lafester]

What do you mean done? You will then move to the next tier of grinders, the Baldors/Doerrs/Milwaukees/Rockwells/Wissotas/vintage stuff and dump all those block grinders....But if you find a 1/2hp Pre-block with deluxe base, it might satisfy that itch until you make the transition. [emoji106]

Well you may be right, just depends on how things evolve. It would be tough to give up a nice, complete pre block set though.

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[exmaxima1]

The person that put the sleeve on the shaft had a good idea. These shafts often have very small shoulders for the inner flange washer to sit against. My preferred solution is to clamp on a 17mm shaft collar very slightly outboard of that little shoulder to give the washer something more solid to rest against.

I think that sleeve was there for a wire wheel. They tend to get swaged to the arbor if they are aluminum or other soft metal, but steel sleeves work well. Your idea for the shaft collar is popular for adding a Multi-Tool belt adapter, as the drive drum needs to run very true. I usually face a shaft collar in a lathe (on a shaft) to make it run as true as possible.

 

[lafester]

I think that sleeve was there for a wire wheel. They tend to get swaged to the arbor if they are aluminum or other soft metal, but steel sleeves work well. Your idea for the shaft collar is popular for adding a Multi-Tool belt adapter, as the drive drum needs to run very true. I usually face a shaft collar in a lathe (on a shaft) to make it run as true as possible.

Yeah that was for the wire wheel. For some reason they left the cover on and wore a chunk out of it. Better then losing the cover though so it's fine.

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[McBrownie]

No date on the bottom.

Lafester,

Nice 1hp bigboy. Those 257 grinders seem to be from the early 1980's. You might find a casting date stamp on the wheel guards something like this with the year in the middle and the months on the circumference:

View media item 45263

 

[lafester]

Lafester,

Nice 1hp bigboy. Those 257 grinders seem to be from the early 1980's. You might find a casting date stamp on the wheel guards something like this with the year in the middle and the months on the circumference:

View media item 45263

Looks like 12/83. Thanks!
Should have the 1/2 hp any minute now.

 

[lafester]

Just got back with the 7 in 1/2 hp.
Was trying to figure out if it's been painted.
If it was they did a great job.

 

[bubinga]

Just got back with the 7 in 1/2 hp.
Was trying to figure out if it's been painted.
If it was they did a great job.

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Nice!

 

[Farmall450]

pre blockage...as it came from sears, not restored

Simply stunning.

 

[JZiggy]

I think that sleeve was there for a wire wheel. They tend to get swaged to the arbor if they are aluminum or other soft metal, but steel sleeves work well. Your idea for the shaft collar is popular for adding a Multi-Tool belt adapter, as the drive drum needs to run very true. I usually face a shaft collar in a lathe (on a shaft) to make it run as true as possible.

Ah, okay! That makes sense.

Yes I had a machinist pal face the ones I currently use on my grinder as well.

 

[JZiggy]

I agree, I was just initially worried that it had fused itself to the arbor. The bad thing is the large original disks that clamp the wheel were replaced with washers on that side. And the washers are not even the correct diameter for the arbor. I've seen your pics and that clamp looks nice. Your 1hp build was epic.

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Thanks!

 

[lafester]

Just fired up the 1hp and all I can say is wow. The 8" wire wheel feels like an industrial fan hitting you in the face. I put the 7 " thin wire wheel on the other side and it is much tamer.

I'll probably get another 7", but a bit wider to replace that 8" monster. I tried to put in a 6" but they look like toys in there.

Grabbed a rusty bolt to clean up for a quick test and it went really well, just got to respect the power. Variable speed would have been a good idea on these.

UPDATE: After running it again today it doesn't seem nearly as intimidating. I still think the 8" wire wheel turns a bit fast for my day to day needs. I'll have it for when I need it though. I need to properly set up some spacers get rid of all the washers as they are introducing a lot of vibration. The stand absorbs a lot of it but it's still pretty bad.

The 1/2 hp will be set up later tonight and I'll post a few more pics of that one then. It actually has a date stamp on the bottom... I think it's a 1977 model if I remember correctly.

 

[JoeLee1]

Does anyone have any inner flanges like these ??



JL..............

 

[alpinewhite]

My DP was wired wrong (from the factory), and was back feeding AC to the neutral... )

Any load with a disconnected neutral will exhibit this problem. That's because you're seeing what's called the Thevenin Voltage. Try plugging in only the hot wire of a table lamp. Then, touch the neutral wire that wasn't plugged in. You'll feel a shock. The bigger the load, the stronger the shock.

 

[CrotalusAtrox]

Found a nice 1/2 hp commercial today with the stand haven’t had one in the shop for a while, but this one was just to clean to pass up and the price was right