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Cruzan80

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Jul 22, 2015
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4,201
Location
Denver, CO
I would also take the sellers description with a grain of salt. More damage has been done to machines by well meaning DIY types who are "repairing" things that don't need it, than sometimes from parts famage. If it seems to spin true, without any real noise, it should be fine to start. I have seen some spin down in 10sec, up to 2 min, and all have continued to operate fine in a home environment. If it is production equipment, operating several hours each day, that is different.
 

frichard

Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2023
Messages
7
Just picked up this Grinder for 40$. Good or Bad it looks like it would be a fun restoration for the Son and myself. Trying to teach him the value and history of USA made tools. Are the side shields original? They look different from most pictures I have seen. Figured a good tear down and paint was in order as well as sourcing missing parts. 20230331_140535.jpg20230331_140523.jpg20230331_140528.jpg
 

FrankLee

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Sep 13, 2010
Messages
3,586
Location
seMI, 48317
Are the side shields original? They look different from most pictures I have seen.
Welcome!

Yes, those covers are original. Left and right guards and covers are the same and are interchangeable. Other models with rear exhaust chutes were different left and right.
 
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softailgarage

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Joined
Apr 20, 2011
Messages
5,153
Location
Bullhead City, Az.
Found this on marketplace, 6 minutes away...$20. Dude said it had been packed away for 25 years. Got it home, plugged it in and fired right up, 10 minutes later, nothing. Something in the switch crapped out, no problem, had one in stock.16803041948606077129271687243037.jpg
Installed the spare switch and after 3 or 4 uses, that switch crapped out too. I've been checking Ebay for an original replacement and found nothing. Anyone know if there is a electric parts house that sells a replica?
 

FrankLee

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Sep 13, 2010
Messages
3,586
Location
seMI, 48317
Found this on marketplace, 6 minutes away...$20. Dude said it had been packed away for 25 years. Got it home, plugged it in and fired right up, 10 minutes later, nothing. Something in the switch crapped out, no problem, had one in stock.

Installed the spare switch and after 3 or 4 uses, that switch crapped out too. I've been checking Ebay for an original replacement and found nothing. Anyone know if there is a electric parts house that sells a replica?
Franklee, I'm not a big fan of the square-top grinders, but I do have one and use it often with wire wheels. I bought it and parted out everything except the running motor and housing. I have a '55 1/3hp cast iron grinder that I like much better and also use often.
IMG_0279.JPG

Recently, someone on one of the Craftsman FB groups was looking for an oe switch for his square-top, so I sold him mine.

To re-add a switch, I enlarged the lamp mounting hole on the rear of the center band and installed an off-the-shelf toggle switch that is much better than the oe switch. I flipped the center band around so the new switch is in front and the old switch window and label are in the back.
IMG_0280-90%.jpg IMG_0283-90%.jpg

I don't need a label showing in front, but @mattblast makes a very nice re-pop label if you need one.
Below, the crown logo is a magnet and the b&w label is a paper copy of some old label.
IMG_0427.JPG IMG_0431-80%.jpg

This new switch is in the same location as the cast iron grinders that I'm accustomed to and the ON/OFF positions are the same.

This is not for everybody, but it works great for me. I don't care for those quench trays either and I have a separate goose neck lamp.



11/29/2023

I finally got around to installing this snap-in outlet in the original switch opening. I nibbled the opening just enough to accept the outlet. I wired the outlet ahead of the switch so it's always hot. I can use any vintage lamp now. I didn't feel the need to patch the small remaining openings on either side.

IMG_3311.JPG IMG_3312.JPG

I also carefully peeled off the original label using a heat gun from the back side. Then, with a double-sided adhesive sheet, I attached the label to a magnetic sheet and stuck it to the "new " front of the grinder above the new switch.
 
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softailgarage

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Joined
Apr 20, 2011
Messages
5,153
Location
Bullhead City, Az.
I'm not a big fan of the square-top grinders, but I do have one and use it often with wire wheels. I bought it and parted out everything except the running motor and housing. I have a '55 cast iron grinder that I like much better and also use often.
IMG_0279.JPG

Recently, someone on one of the Craftsman FB groups was looking for an oe switch for his square-top, so I sold him mine.

To re-add a switch, I enlarged the lamp mounting hole on the rear of the center band and installed an off-the-shelf toggle switch that is much better than the oe switch. I flipped the center band around so the new switch is in front and the old switch window and label are in the back.
IMG_0280-90%.jpg IMG_0283-90%.jpg

I don't need a label showing in front, but @mattblast makes a very nice re-pop label if you need one.
Below, the crown logo is a magnet and the b&w label is a paper copy of some old label.
IMG_0427.JPG IMG_0431-80%.jpg

This is not for everybody, but it works great for me. I don't care for those quench trays and I have a separate lamp. This switch is in the same location as the cast iron grinders.
Now why didn't I think of that? Great idea, I'm going to sell it anyway as I prefer the tombstone grinders. Crown logo is perfect also, thank you sir.
 

AntiqueBen

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Joined
Aug 4, 2021
Messages
1,438
Here's one I picked up from a gentleman that had a machine shop for many years. I really like the custom stand he built for it. It weighs a ton. It needs a cleaning but it runs like a dream. I think this one dates to 1948? Being from the 40's, I wander why the "A" in Craftsman is "not" pointed?
 

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FrankLee

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seMI, 48317
Here's one I picked up from a gentleman that had a machine shop for many years. I really like the custom stand he built for it. It weighs a ton. It needs a cleaning but it runs like a dream. I think this one dates to 1948? Being from the 40's, I wander why the "A" in Craftsman is "not" pointed?
Very nice!

Yes... E1 48 would be May 1948.

I am very partial to original paint and in my experience, I believe that would clean up beautifully!

Here's a before and after of that model I refurbed. Original paint.

before-after.JPG

It is VERY likely that the wiring to the lamps are fubar. That wiring is molded into the rubber(?) lamp socket housings. I was able to remove the threaded socket, de-solder the old wires and install new.

The oe sockets had short wire leads which were taped/soldered to wire which ran to the base. I chose to use single pieces from the lamps to the base which required a different assembly sequence.

The eye shields are cast alloy pieces, not pressed steel. They swivel down only so far and stop. Both of mine were bent at the mounting brackets because they were forced down too far. I was able to correct with gentle persuasion.
 
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torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
FYI - there's an interesting 'case study', as the Pine Hollow YouTuber likes to say, about a 3/4-HP m-397.19450 Block grinder in the following thread. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...nder-not-reaching-speed.515509/#post-10108220

The symptoms:
1) hums on start
2) does not spin on start
3) does spin if helped with a hand-spin, will spin in either direction
These can be caused by a start-up circuit that is not energized
4) spins at 1/2 speed, if hand started

The Start-up windings do not appear 'fried', and the resistance is 10.9 Ohms. The Main 1 & 2 windings measure 3.4 and 3.5 Ohms respectively.

Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Is it Capacitor start? If so, check the Cap and if its wired correctly.
New cap has been tried, w/o change. AFAIK - these caps are non-directional, I know some electrical applications they do have a + lead.

UPDATE: The relay had an open in the connection between the coil and terminal 1. The OP soldered it and it's working like new.
 
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demiandvm

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Joined
Feb 3, 2021
Messages
59
Location
wi.
In the last 3 months I have been running into craftsman bench grinders on marketplace. I don't need three, but the prices were so good I couldn't turn them down. I ended up putting fiber wheels, buffer wheels, wire wheels and grind wheels on them and now I never have to switch wheels. All three came with all the guards, one had a water cup, and two of the three had lights. I guess I can sell one if I want, but I don't think so right now. Anyone visiting my shop thinks I have a problem. Maybe so? I have a total of $100 in all three, so the prices were too good to say no. Now I think I need a fourth.
 

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lafester

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Mar 1, 2017
Messages
2,191
Location
Northern CO
Grinders tend to multiply quickly! I have 6 in use and a few more on the shelf, after selling off the ones I could part with.
I only have a 3/4 round top block and 1/2 hp pre block left from Sears though.
 

drs3317

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Joined
Jan 31, 2016
Messages
126
Location
Western Maryland
I have been collecting block grinders a a few years now and recently had an issue with a 3/4 hp that @torqueman2002 was able to guide me through finding the issue. It is now running great and and I will soon be restoring it completely. Then just the other day I located I was able to pick up another 3/4hp that although dusty from years of setting just needs a good cleaning and new wheels. Both of them were dated 1974. One of them has the base with the built in quench tray and the cast iron tool rests but was missing one on the left side. I located a foundry who I now have them making a few sets of the rests. After I receive them they will require a little machining. If they turn out okay I will post the results later and if enough interest, I may order additional. I'm not yet sure of an exact price but I think they may be reasonable. Anyway, below are my collection of grinders.
 

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torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
In the last 3 months I have been running into craftsman bench grinders on marketplace. I don't need three,... Now I think I need a fourth.
May I kindly remind you of my motto: need has nothing to do with the saving of Block grinders. It is a calling.

And I recall thinking I need a fourth, and a fifth, and a sixth, and, and, and, ....😁
 

BTL-A4

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Joined
Feb 28, 2018
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1,252
Location
Santa Clarita
Just got this today for $85. They are either junk with missing pieces for $40 or nicer ones for $150. This was in the middle. I was told it was used by a DIY in his garage "seldomly" when he welded. It runs fine. 1/2 HP 397.19440 7".
DSC01216.JPG DSC01217.JPG

I downloaded a manual for the 397.19441. It looks the same but is 2-phase.
 

bubinga

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Jul 26, 2014
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12,744
Location
Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
Just got this today for $85. They are either junk with missing pieces for $40 or nicer ones for $150. This was in the middle. I was told it was used by a DIY in his garage "seldomly" when he welded. It runs fine. 1/2 HP 397.19440 7".
DSC01216.JPG DSC01217.JPG

I downloaded a manual for the 397.19441. It looks the same but is 2-phase.
What looks the same, the manual?
Did you mean three phase?
 

torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
.... 1/2 HP 397.19440 7".
I downloaded a manual for the 397.19441. It looks the same but is 2-phase.
Nice find.
I have PDF copies of both those models. PM me your eMail and I can send a copy of your model's owner manual.

I'm thinking by '2-phase' you are referring to the dual voltage capability of your model. I did note the relay part numbers are not the same between the 2 models. Probably as well as a number of other parts, like: power switch, arbor assembly, stator and coil assembly.
 

BTL-A4

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Feb 28, 2018
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Santa Clarita
Nice find.
I have PDF copies of both those models. PM me your eMail and I can send a copy of your model's owner manual.

I'm thinking by '2-phase' you are referring to the dual voltage capability of your model. I did note the relay part numbers are not the same between the 2 models. Probably as well as a number of other parts, like: power switch, arbor assembly, stator and coil assembly.
Yes, that's what I meant. I shoulda checked. I'll send a PM, thanks!
 

BTL-A4

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Feb 28, 2018
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1,252
Location
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Just got this today for $85. They are either junk with missing pieces for $40 or nicer ones for $150. This was in the middle. I was told it was used by a DIY in his garage "seldomly" when he welded. It runs fine. 1/2 HP 397.19440 7".
DSC01216.JPG DSC01217.JPG

I downloaded a manual for the 397.19441. It looks the same but is 2-phase.
Where would I post questions on restoring this? I'd like to use it next to my lathe to sharpen bits. I think I'll check the bearings and innards and see how they are and maybe clean it up a bit and start using it. Or, maybe a full restore is in order.

This thread: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-block-motor-bench-grinders-whats-the-fuss-with-resource-information.249539/page-30#post-10111002

Or, start a new one and just ask and see who replies?
 

kenc184

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Joined
Feb 25, 2012
Messages
718
Location
Nor Cal
Is it a worthwhile "upgrade" to pick up a tool rest and quench tray setup often fitted to the 1HP unit for fitment to a 1/2 or 3/4hp?
If so, what would be fair to pay?
 

Mark914

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May 16, 2010
Messages
203
Location
New Haven CT
Saw this over the weekend. But I cant buy everything. Good deals are still out there.
 

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exmaxima1

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Jun 25, 2011
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6,340
Location
Midwest
Saw this over the weekend. But I cant buy everything. Good deals are still out there.
Looks like a 1/4hp model with no wheel guard covers. Missing a rest, and the paint looks bad. $30 would be a typical price in the Chicago area.
 
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