Thanks. I found a few references to this in this thread for the grinder feet: Hillman 884633 grommet. The picture doesn't look like it will work, but I'll go check them out in person and see what they look like.
Thanks for letting me know the parts won't all fall apart! Ha!
A4, I know everyone has a favorite they like but the best match I have found which I have used on several grinders is Krylon Fusion Metallic Dark Metal. or the center band I have several but prefer Rust-Oleum Universal Satin Nickel.UPDATE:
Eye Shields
I tried the polish:
It looks better in the photo than in real life. Both eye shields are cracked and very yellowed. I think even if I do get the yellowing polished out, the crack will be problematic. This grinder will be set up for wire-wheeling. I can make some eye shields later.
Feet
The ones at Lowes are a great match. The image online does not show the proper feet, but the part number given is correct.
Paint
I tried a metallic black on a scrap piece of metal and did not care for it. It went on too lumpy. I think I'll use a plain gloss black or dark gray.
Those have a sensing relay to start Delco did away with start capacitors. You can see it at the bottom, I know yours is boxed and this is the cast aluminum round but still made by Delco.
Check this thread for a possible fix:
Is this part still available somewhere or a replacement?
I am not sure if they do. That’s why I like the capacitors because they are still very common and cheap to find. There should be a numbers on it to help with trying to narrow it down. I might have one but it’s for a 1/3 HP motor so I don’t think it would work. I’m not sure what amps the 3/4 HP draws but I think it’s going to be more than 6amps so I don’t think my would work.
Update, after researching the issue here, it became apparent that unless the windings were fried, the issue would be the start relay. I removed it and found that it had a good deal of oily residue leaking out of the housing. Upon disassembly, the internals had a good coating of this oil also. After cleaning all the parts good and polishing the contact points, i reassembled it and it worked perfectly!! What does everyone think the oil like substance could have been? Is that little part with the coils inside of the relay filled with oil? I could see no other way in which oil could have gotten there. If so, I'm sure it will leak out again?
If I was closer, I would be happy to get that buffer out of his way also!This one is currently in the maintenance guys shop at my work. Pushed in the back corner and hasn't been used in a few years.
Recently I've been putting the bug in his ear with the ol' saying "if you ever want to get rid of that. Let me know and I will take it off your hands."
Hopefully he gives in at some point.
Not sure how old it is, but I do know it still works.
Nice find, made by Delco electronics right after they replace Packard Electronics. Delco made cast iron grinders for two years and then switched over to cast aluminum. They also switched to a new color and their own designs for their grinders. The only thing that stayed the same for a while is the motor housing. Delco also dropped centrifugal switches in favor of sensing relays. I can’t be certain on the cast iron version but the bearings switched from 6202 to 6203. You will have to check before you order new bears. They are sealed so you won’t be able to clean and repack the grease.
Unfortunately it is not. Still an uncommon grinder but not what this thread would consider a block grinder. Those were sold separate from a motor. You could purchase the motor that came with yours or an owner could have bought a cheaper one to save money or use a motor they already owned. Granted it ran at the correct RPM.
Good to know, thank you. I've got quite a few irons in the fire right now so I haven't given it any attention and had assumed I could simply solve the squeak.
You actually don’t have to take it completely apart to change out the bearings. There is enough give on either side to get a bearing puller on and swap them out.
That's the best news I've heard all day! Seriously though, that is good news and it makes it much more likely to happen in the near future.
Just recently I swapped out bearings on this one in 30 minutes. That’s including disassembling and assembling. I changed out the new Timken bearings for NSK bearings. I find made in Japan bearings are a lot better than ones made in China.
Pedestal grinder. they do give you more space to work with for wire wheeling and that sort of work.
The badge is early version roughly 1946-1950 but the color is power bronze which didn’t come out until 1956. If you look on vintage machinery website they have all the old catalogs, you can start 1947 or 1948. They don’t have maybe catalogs that took place during the war. Everything was focused on the war effort at that time. You’ll find what you’re looking for.I ran across this grinder on marketplace when I was looking for the one I just bought. The price was too much but I noticed the oil cups, and the gold color which seems less common. I’m a sucker for old tools, don’t need another grinder, but it looks like a fun project to restore if the price was right. Any info on what model this might be? This is the only picture.
This is so beautiful, If I owned it, I don't know if I could bring myself to use. it. I would probably have it on display inside the house.
Thank you, I appreciate it! It was my grandfathers and I restored it 5 years ago. It gets used a lot actually. I have been restoring a lot of my grandfather/dad’s machines from their old business. I was gifted a lot of machines and I acquired a lot as well. It’s been used non stop since I restored it.
Excellent. I really appreciate the great information- thank you. I feel like you're probably going to educate me on more than one thing and that's exactly why I'm here.
Timken is now MIC? Is nothing sacred?
Sorry to say but they are. I still hold onto the original NP bearings that came with the grinders. In fact I hold onto all Made in USA bearings. Most of the time you can clean them out and repack them and they are just as good.
Those cast iron ones are the best! I believe they are called "pre-block". I have had all three versions but kept the 1/2 HP of course.
UPDATE:I got this today for $40 (asking $50) on FBMP:
The cord needs replacing, the water tray and the lampshade are missing, and the plastic eye shields are all yellowed. Not sure how brittle they are, but they survived a trip home in the back of my truck. We'll see how the rust cleans up. I'm going to use if for wire-wheeling.
Looks like it takes 7" wheels.
QUESTIONS
I'm wondering if I can get a standard lamp to fit in the base?
Does anyone have any ideas for restoring/replacing the eye shields?
I'll answer my own questions:I'm restoring my grinder and I have a few questions:
1. What happens when you split the two halves apart? Do a bunch of parts and pieces all fall out and become a PITA the reassemble? I have this grinder. It looks like nothing is holding #12 but I thought I'd as before I pulled it apart and parts went everywhere. I unscrewed the bolts. The halves do not separate easily. I might just clean them up and repaint them in place.
2. Do I need the rubber feet? Mine has none. Are parts available? Is there a substitute?
3. Paint Colors. Mine appears to be painted silver/gray. The instructions I have are from 1975. These have a photo of a dark-colored grinder. I like the darker color, but does it really matter? I thought I might go with some sort of metallic dark gray.
4. How do I restore the plastic eye shields? The ones I have are yellowed. Are there replacements? I could fabricate something, too. I will be using this for wire-wheeling. so I may not even put shields on, since I move them out of the way anyway.
5. What is the best way to get the baked-on metal dust off the inside of the wheel cover? I've chipped out what I can, but some is still there.
Thanks!
I sprayed some hammered metallic dark gray on a scrap piece of metal to see what it looked like. I didn't care for it; it was too lumpy-looking. I would suggest spraying a piece of scrap and seeing if you like it.
I agree 100%… for all machines.
Yeah, I agree that gray is usually boring. I thought of painting this red with a silver center band. I opted for the dark gray because the manual I have has that color on it and I liked the look. I wanted something metallic, but all the metallic paint was hammered and that looked lumpy. I even thought of painting it gold, but I wasn't sure what to paint the band (black, dark gray, red maybe).
