let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
Alchymist
Well-known member
Best thing to do if the coils are suspect is to measure resistance, then find someone with a megger and test insulation breakdown coil to coil and coil to ground.
SweetD
Well-known member
A little update:
I was able to re-thread the damaged right shaft threads by using a 1/2"-20 nut, which worked like a charm. I drilled a 1/2" hole in a block of scrap wood that fit the left-hand side of the shaft, and "caught" the inner wheel guard frame to prevent the shaft from spinning when I tightened a nut to it on the left side. I used a little 3-in-1 oil on the shaft and just carefully but directly spun the nut I bought right over the damaged threads and it worked like a charm!
Total restore is not in the cards right now...I'm a firm believer in preserving original condition if it's warranted, and overall this thing is in real good (used) original condition. Paint is 90%+ there...
Thinking about setting it up as a buffing station or maybe wire wheel (or one of each):
Eye guard glass is original and in great shape as well. What looks like rust on that right-hand eye guard is some sort of stain. Not sure I want to try to remove it without affecting the original paint. This thing also has speckles of white paint all over it, which does come off with some work, but it's a chafe.
I was right in that the knock-outs for both the lamp stem and the quenching tray are still intact.
Dave
I was able to re-thread the damaged right shaft threads by using a 1/2"-20 nut, which worked like a charm. I drilled a 1/2" hole in a block of scrap wood that fit the left-hand side of the shaft, and "caught" the inner wheel guard frame to prevent the shaft from spinning when I tightened a nut to it on the left side. I used a little 3-in-1 oil on the shaft and just carefully but directly spun the nut I bought right over the damaged threads and it worked like a charm!
Total restore is not in the cards right now...I'm a firm believer in preserving original condition if it's warranted, and overall this thing is in real good (used) original condition. Paint is 90%+ there...
Thinking about setting it up as a buffing station or maybe wire wheel (or one of each):
Eye guard glass is original and in great shape as well. What looks like rust on that right-hand eye guard is some sort of stain. Not sure I want to try to remove it without affecting the original paint. This thing also has speckles of white paint all over it, which does come off with some work, but it's a chafe.
I was right in that the knock-outs for both the lamp stem and the quenching tray are still intact.
Dave
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I've seen a lot of winding's tied like that (not necessarily Craftsman...), so I would say OEM.
And tes, what Alchymist said on testing the winding.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
^^ +1
Looks very suspicious. Check for a short to the stator laminations.
Any motor rebuilder will be able to 'meg' it for you. I had a stator and rotor checked for $20; it took 1 day.
I have pics. of a 1/3 HP CM Block Grinder's stator windings tied like that.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Nice grinder.
That's good to hear about the re-thread and a nice write up.
FWIW - The tabs that hold the glass in the shields are rather delicate, and don't like to be bent too much. Ask me how I know.
Also, the stones could stand a dressing. The following link is a good guide.
"MACHINE SHOP TIPS #97 Dressing Grind Wheels tubalcain"
http://tinyurl.com/Dressing-a-Grinding-Wheel
SweetD
Well-known member
Nice grinder.
That's good to hear about the re-thread and a nice write up.
FWIW - The tabs that hold the glass in the shields are rather delicate, and don't like to be bent too much. Ask me how I know.
Also, the stones could stand a dressing. The following link is a good guide.
"MACHINE SHOP TIPS #97 Dressing Grind Wheels tubalcain"
http://tinyurl.com/Dressing-a-Grinding-Wheel
Hey torqueman, thanks for the kudos! I'm hoping to not have to move those shields at all - I figured those tabs are not happy to be bent!
The stones are original to the grinder I am 99% sure. They both could use a dressing like you suggest for sure. The one on the right is really bad. I don't have a dressing setup...not sure if it is worth dressing a 50+ year old wheel? Opinions?
Much appreciated on the link!
Dave
hemifalcon
Well-known member
Here's mine.. June 16 1964 Dated bottom plate.. I made sure to retain all the original stamps which worked out well. I know the main grey is lighter than original--but I'm not worried about it.. I had to "band-aid" some of the wire for the stator--but otherwise it works beautifully.. Original stickers for "SHATTERPROOF GLASS" still in place.. Imagine this thing really never saw much use..
Here's the pics--
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Yes--I removed the name plate so that I could blast the sheetmetal--didn't want any of the old rust creeping through..
Here's the pics--
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Yes--I removed the name plate so that I could blast the sheetmetal--didn't want any of the old rust creeping through..
softailgarage
Well-known member
You could try lightly buffing that stain out, shouldn't damage anything.
So, whats the reason for tying the winding and does it effect voltage/amperage in some way?
Nice, very nice
Would someone look to see if they can spot anything that a newbe like me would not catch. It looks like the center cover has a gap so I am a bit concerned that there some work done to this grinder. But I think by the time I decide, some ninja will swoop in and grap the sucker off ebay. Any comments would greatly help.
Also how hard is it to find the eye shield on these? Is this truely a 7" grinder or 6"? Ad said 7" but I really feel better hearing from the experts in here. TIA.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-CRAFTSM...ltDomain_0&hash=item2ecfec254c#ht_2137wt_1020
Also how hard is it to find the eye shield on these? Is this truely a 7" grinder or 6"? Ad said 7" but I really feel better hearing from the experts in here. TIA.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-CRAFTSM...ltDomain_0&hash=item2ecfec254c#ht_2137wt_1020
hemifalcon
Well-known member
The covers are not precision fit. The sheetmetal clip/nuts which allow the securing of the sheetmetal cover are movable (read-adjustable) so that the sheetmetal can be moved side to side to be better centered. Now--I don't know if there has been any work done to the grinder obviously--but you could probably just slide the cover over if you're purely concerned with that fact.
cbacres
Well-known member
Hemifalcon,
Real nice job, I like the new stainless screws.
Can't wait to get my herd done.
Real nice job, I like the new stainless screws.
Can't wait to get my herd done.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Nice job! I never get tired seeing vintage machines rebuilt and refreshed.
What paint brand & color/number did you use? Details, details - please.
Those intact glass stickers are rare to see.
I remove the labels and badges before a trip to the blast cabinet also.
Again, nice job!
What paint brand & color/number did you use? Details, details - please.
Those intact glass stickers are rare to see.
I remove the labels and badges before a trip to the blast cabinet also.
Again, nice job!
hemifalcon
Well-known member
Thanks for the compliments.. However--no stainless screws on this one.. I re-used all the original hardware-aside from the wiring connectors internally.. I wire-wheeled all the screws and hand-filed the tool rests as they each had some "bites" from being too close to the wheels.
Nice job! I never get tired seeing vintage machines rebuilt and refreshed.
What paint brand & color/number did you use? Details, details - please.
Those intact glass stickers are rare to see.
I remove the labels and badges before a trip to the blast cabinet also.
Again, nice job!
Thanks again--
NO fancy stuff here--just an amateur shot at restoring something that was too cheap to pass up--and even worked. The paint is Rustoleum Dark Machine Grey on the outside--and the center sheetmetal is a Rustoleum Hammer-tone silver.. I sprayed the Grey on for the last coat after the first coat was pretty dry as I had a light spot on the casting--so I purposely got all the surface wet again which gives a slight dull appearance with some very minimal wrinkle.. (a process that I haven't quite perfected--but have mistakenly done it often enough that I say I've done it on purpose for the effect..)
SweetD
Well-known member
Really nice job. Question: I noticed you have the spark arrestors attached below the tool rests (I think)...I've never seen them in that position, but rather always at the top of each wheel / guard.
Does it affect the function of the spark arrestors to have them below the tool rests?
Dave
cbacres
Well-known member
"Thanks for the compliments.. However--no stainless screws on this one.. I re-used all the original hardware-aside from the wiring connectors internally.. I wire-wheeled all the screws and hand-filed the tool rests as they each had some "bites" from being too close to the wheels. "
Then you did a excellent job on fasteners , it passed for brand new in the photo.
That's some detail.
Then you did a excellent job on fasteners , it passed for brand new in the photo.
That's some detail.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Link to MSC 6" grinding Wheels.
http://http://tinyurl.com/MSC-6inch-Grind-Wheels
Link to: "Jab`s grinder wheel truing device"
http://tinyurl.com/Jab-s-grinder-wheel-truing-dev
12mm Shank Tapered Tip Diamond Dresser $12
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390683758743?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Good question. Might be to hold a smaller guage wire's relative position after assembly.
The 'string' shouldn't effect the magnetic field and resulting voltage/amerage [HP/torque], is my guesstimate.
cbacres
Well-known member
Good question. Might be to hold a smaller guage wire's relative position after assembly.
The 'string' shouldn't effect the magnetic field and resulting voltage/amerage [HP/torque], is my guesstimate.
I was thinking maybe like you mentioned about holding the wife's position after assembly, something to ensure the wire is grouped as a field, if they spread apart, less effective field?
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Quick answer - It is a fair price IF it runs and arrives undamaged.
More in Blue below.
Good luck.
More in Blue below.
Good luck.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
?? What about the wife's position!
But, seriously - I think you've on to it. But, I'm not a motor expert. Maybe someone here will chime in.
I bet someone on the OWWM.com sit could answer that.
Fretters
Well-known member
Not uncommon. It just keeps everything in place.
cbacres
Well-known member
?? What about the wife's position!
But, seriously - I think you've on to it. But, I'm not a motor expert. Maybe someone here will chime in.
I bet someone on the OWWM.com sit could answer that.
Damn spell check on my iPad, that's funny though. I was meaning wires.
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hemifalcon
Well-known member
Is that what those things were??? I thought I took them off the bottom--so that's where I put them back at.. I could be wrong though.. I actually kind of like them better at the bottom as when should I use this grinder--or if my pal buys it--I think they work nice as guards so that if you're cleaning off say a small piece--it doesn't get sucked in and trapped in the wheel housing.. Sort of like a mudflap for bits??
torqueman2002
Well-known member
They are designed to be at the top of the wheel opening, with wheel rotation from top to bottom. They keep sparks and swarf from hitting the operator's hands.
Here's a link to a grinder user's guide.
http://tinyurl.com/Grind-Wheel-Dos-Donts-Norton
cbacres
Well-known member
Good info on grinder safety, I'm learning more every day. Didn't know about the blotters, thought they were just the label.
It doesn't take much to mess up with a grinder, had my share of lose calls over the years.
It doesn't take much to mess up with a grinder, had my share of lose calls over the years.
Quick answer - It is a fair price IF it runs and arrives undamaged.
More in Blue below.
Good luck.
I will need to consider the additional $ to replace the missing eye shields and bearing. I am not even sure what the capacitor looks like or what its purpose so I might need your help if i do buy one (might not be this one). Thanks.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
It is a cylinder with electrical terminals. They do break down over time. Without it, the grinder may not start, and just hum; possibly burning out the run winding.
Below is from:
Split-Phase AC Induction Motor
Microchip AN887
AC Induction Motor Fundamentals
Author: Rakesh Parekh
Microchip Technology Inc.
http://tinyurl.com/AC-Induction-Motor-Fundamental
Capacitor Start AC Induction Motor
This is a modified split-phase motor with a capacitor in series with the start winding to provide a start boost.”Like the split-phase motor, the capacitor start motor also has a centrifugal switch {or relay} which disconnects the start winding and the capacitor when the motor reaches about 75% of the rated speed. Since the capacitor is in series with the start circuit, it creates more starting torque, typically 200% to 400% of the rated torque.
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cbacres
Well-known member
Found a 1/2 HP on a stand and bit sharpener attachment, $ 30.00. It's only 4 miles from the house and I'm stuck in a hospital 240 miles away! Thankful for a understanding wife. The seller is holding until she gets there in a little while. Been looking for the sharpener and the galvanized stand fits nicely into my grinder utilization plan. I noticed it doesn't have a serial number, anyone have a guess on date built? It does have the plastic switch.
The conversation never really progressed on the rubber feet. I see a bunch of guys getting new grinders. What have been some of your solutions?
Two of mine are without the rubber feet so I am using rubber isolators with 1/4-20 male threads to mount into the base and the grinder. I'm going to recess them a bit into the wood so they're not suspending the grinder up so high.
Granted, my setup is different than most but I thought I'd put it out there.
I picked them up from Grainger, $2 a piece.
Two of mine are without the rubber feet so I am using rubber isolators with 1/4-20 male threads to mount into the base and the grinder. I'm going to recess them a bit into the wood so they're not suspending the grinder up so high.
Granted, my setup is different than most but I thought I'd put it out there.
I picked them up from Grainger, $2 a piece.
softailgarage
Well-known member
Found a 1/2 HP on a stand and bit sharpener attachment, $ 30.00. It's only 4 miles from the house and I'm stuck in a hospital 240 miles away! Thankful for a understanding wife. The seller is holding until she gets there in a little while. Been looking for the sharpener and the galvanized stand fits nicely into my grinder utilization plan. I noticed it doesn't have a serial number, anyone have a guess on date built? It does have the plastic switch.
$30.00? I feel a YOU **** coming on
balane
Well-known member
not coming on, it definitely happened.
jakemac
Well-known member
Just the fact that he has a wife that is willing to run out and pick it up for him while he's laid up earns a YOU ****. For both of them.
cbacres
Well-known member
Tedsters,
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/2202.pdf
This is a link for a manual for your grinder. It does not have a wiring diagram though. I did see diagrams in other manuals, I'll keep looking to see if here is one that matches the wiring in mine, which is the same 1/3 HP grinder.
It has a publication date of 1963.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
The conversation never really progressed on the rubber feet. I see a bunch of guys getting new grinders. What have been some of your solutions?
Two of mine are without the rubber feet so I am using rubber isolators with 1/4-20 male threads to mount into the base and the grinder. I'm going to recess them a bit into the wood so they're not suspending the grinder up so high.
Granted, my setup is different than most but I thought I'd put it out there.
I picked them up from Grainger, $2 a piece.
I'll use rubber feet (not sure of size, pic and link are for illustration).
http://tinyurl.com/oztwgkh
Or, I'll use grommets.
http://tinyurl.com/q3xvufj
torqueman2002
Well-known member
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My solution for rubber feet
The conversation never really progressed on the rubber feet. I see a bunch of guys getting new grinders. What have been some of your solutions?
Two of mine are without the rubber feet so I am using rubber isolators with 1/4-20 male threads to mount into the base and the grinder. I'm going to recess them a bit into the wood so they're not suspending the grinder up so high.
Granted, my setup is different than most but I thought I'd put it out there.
I picked them up from Grainger, $2 a piece.
Picked up the what looks to be one of the last / most modern of the "good" block grinders with the Paramount/Allegretti motor. Listed on craigslist for $40 and looked to have very minimal use. Even the plastic shields are in clean condition. Manufacture date is 1984. Here it is as picked up from the seller:
[IMG<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/108285407@N06/12580285945/" title="IMG_3427 by kevinabvms, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3781/12580285945_0d919da484_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_3427"></a>[/IMG]
Still dirtier than I would like so I stripped it for cleaning:
![a>](http://<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/108285407@N06/12581081054/" title="IMG_3431 by kevinabvms, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5479/12581081054_134a46f3c1_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_3431"></a>)
The only thing missing was one of the rubber feet. I cut a plug of rubber out of a hockey puck and spun up a replica rubber foot on the lathe:
![a>](http://<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/108285407@N06/12580661843/" title="IMG_3438 by kevinabvms, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3790/12580661843_53b32cd3c3_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_3438"></a>)
![a>[](http://<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/108285407@N06/12580441615/" title="IMG_3435 by kevinabvms, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7319/12580441615_11b888422b_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_3435"></a>[)
![a>](http://<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/108285407@N06/12580542165/" title="IMG_3439 by kevinabvms, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7329/12580542165_a709d7ef70_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_3439"></a>)
Here it is all cleaned up. Amazing condition for something 20 years old. Smooth, quiet and spins forever once turned off. Vast improvement over the POS 1/6hp imported craftsman it replaces.
![a>](http://<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/108285407@N06/12581031834/" title="IMG_3444 by kevinabvms, on Flickr"><img src="https://ycpi-farm8.staticflickr.com/7450/12581031834_dcedafee1e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_3444"></a>)
![a>](http://<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/108285407@N06/12581031004/" title="IMG_3443 by kevinabvms, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3828/12581031004_ab70388eac_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_3443"></a>)
![a>](http://<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/108285407@N06/12581086054/" title="IMG_3445 by kevinabvms, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3715/12581086054_8c36dbd5b8_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_3445"></a>)