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let's see your craftsman block grinders

bagged89s10

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My Dad's latest find- I think he paid 15 or 20 for it.

C13FLB4_zpsfooo8j8l.jpg


After:
C13a_zpsj49brrll.jpg


C13cu_zpsqxtdsddx.jpg


Nice restore he did!
 
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drivesitfar

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JZ: your 35+ year old 3/4 block looks almost new. nice find :thumbup:

EX: if i remember correctly you were trying to talk McB into the bigger size (2 x 48?) because there are more belt options. since i'm still organizing i have time and maybe a Baldor belt grinder will show up in my travels.

thanks for the heads up

Doc: do you have a belt grinder or not a need for one?
 

bagged89s10

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Need some help in diagnosing the problem with this grinder. This is the 397.1949 1/2hp commercial capacitor start block I picked up yesterday. There is no switch so I plugged it into a 110v switch box for testing. The wiring matches the wiring of my other blocks. It won't start unless I spin the wheels first by hand then flip the switch. What is wrong with it?

https://vimeo.com/133005848
 

drivesitfar

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Bagged: usually a broken or fried wire, but i'll let the experts chime in. do you have any pictures of the wiring you can post or are they on the video I haven't watched yet?

good luck

Doc: did you buy the same one as McB put on his Blockmeister or which one do you own?
 

torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
The three nephews' Blocks are done.

It took five m-397.19580 and one m-397.19581 1/3-HP rtop Blocks; but, each has metal framed eye shields, small quench trays, lamps with shades, spark arrestors, tool rests, and the metal toggle switch.

Here are the last 2, that will be sent tomorrow (to South of the M-D Line!).
M%20amp%20J%20P1100145.jpg


Fi%20M%20P1100159.jpg


Fi%20J%20P1100152.jpg


Each Block got new bearings and updated electrics (replacement power cords, cleaned power switches and terminals), at a minimum.

The first Block is already in the possession of one nephew, but here are a few pics. of it during re-construction.
Fi%20Y%20P1100097.jpg


Fi%20Y%20P1100101.jpg


Fi%20Y%20P1100095.jpg
 

nine4gmc

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Hey, I'm south of the m/d line, should I keep an eye out for a package Uncle Tman? :lol:

Great job man, they will be happy!
 

torqueman2002

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Need some help in diagnosing the problem with this grinder. This is the 397.1949 1/2hp commercial capacitor start block I picked up yesterday. There is no switch so I plugged it into a 110v switch box for testing. The wiring matches the wiring of my other blocks. It won't start unless I spin the wheels first by hand then flip the switch. What is wrong with it?

https://vimeo.com/133005848
bagged - Sorry to hear about your troubles.

It's acting like the start-winding/coil is not being energized at power-up.

I think this model has a relay, which are very reliable.

Check the start-winding/coil circuit and capacitor for faults.

If it does not have a relay, then it probably has a start-up switch/circuit that maybe malfunctioning.

I hope this helps.
:thumbup:
 

torqueman2002

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Hey, I'm south of the m/d line, should I keep an eye out for a package Uncle Tman? :lol:

Great job man, they will be happy!
It's funny, of the 5 kids between my younger brother and myself, only my daughter is within 20 mins of us.

His 3 kids & families are scattered between VA, NC, & GA. My son and his wife are out there with Drives in WA.

I was glad to hear each of my nephews actually wanted a grinder like the 1/3-HP rtop Block m-397.19580 I gave their dad. ($20, back in 2011)
 
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harleybuilder

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Tm aka-doc. . Great job on the grinders. I'm sure each of the nephews will have a great big grin on their faces each time they flip the power switch on.
 

bagged89s10

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The three nephews' Blocks are done.

It took five m-397.19580 and one m-397.19581 1/3-HP rtop Blocks; but, each has metal framed eye shields, small quench trays, lamps with shades, spark arrestors, tool rests, and the metal toggle switch.

Here are the last 2, that will be sent tomorrow (to South of the M-D Line!).
M%20amp%20J%20P1100145.jpg


Fi%20M%20P1100159.jpg


Fi%20J%20P1100152.jpg


Each Block got new bearings and updated electrics (replacement power cords, cleaned power switches and terminals), at a minimum.

The first Block is already in the possession of one nephew, but here are a few pics. of it during re-construction.
Fi%20Y%20P1100097.jpg


Fi%20Y%20P1100101.jpg


Fi%20Y%20P1100095.jpg


Awesome job on those blocks! :thumbup: :beer:

Did you paint them or are they all original paint?
 
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bagged89s10

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bagged - Sorry to hear about your troubles.

It's acting like the start-winding/coil is not being energized at power-up.

I think this model has a relay, which are very reliable.

Check the start-winding/coil circuit and capacitor for faults.

If it does not have a relay, then it probably has a start-up switch/circuit that maybe malfunctioning.

I hope this helps.
:thumbup:


Well I think I does have a relay. I'll snap a picture of it tomorrow. Maybe the wire nut connections the previous owner used to bypass the switch are loose. I'll have to check that and I'll go look for a switch first.
 

torqueman2002

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Well I think I does have a relay. I'll snap a picture of it tomorrow. Maybe the wire nut connections the previous owner used to bypass the switch are loose. I'll have to check that and I'll go look for a switch first.
I had some more time today to look for an owners manual for these models - 397.1959x.

They do have a relay. Here's a VM link to a down loadable manual.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...jHanH3A1KW0A44OKw&sig2=6XYodCC_YFfhPSeSk2r7yQ

Some of the Block manuals have a wiring diagram, but not this one. :sad:
 
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bagged89s10

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I had some more time today to look for an owners manual for these models - 397.1959x.

They do have a relay. Here's a VM link to a down loadable manual.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...jHanH3A1KW0A44OKw&sig2=6XYodCC_YFfhPSeSk2r7yQ

Some of the Block manuals have a wiring diagram, but not this one. :sad:


I thought they all have relays. Here is a picture of the bottom.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436457926.314601.jpg
The bypassed switch wires seem fine. The wiring matches the wiring of my other 1/2 Hp cap start. What and how do I need to test the relay and cap without getting electrocuted. I only have experience messing with automotive relays.

Here is a picture of my other 1/2 cap start. Only difference is that this one has a switch and light.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436458311.803243.jpg

Here it is apart now.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436460103.250337.jpg
 
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dngrmse

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McB: are you trying to up your post count?? :lol_hitti

DM: your dad does amazing work and what's even better is I bet he's only owned that one a few days. your restorations are pretty nice too and did you learn a bit from Dad? also how to buy them for next to nothing so you might make a few sheckles in case you want to buy something for your shop? Is Dad a member and if not you need to get him to sign up and share some of his secrets?

Thanks for the kind words, and yes he had it done 2 days after he purchased it. It's good to be retired :thumbup: He is a member, I had him sign up on my last visit. I do OK, but with a 5 yr old, it's tough to find the time to finish up the projects. As for selling the grinders, he does it more for the fun of it, but I think he may have to pretty soon if he keeps accumulating them.
 

bagged89s10

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Thanks for the kind words, and yes he had it done 2 days after he purchased it. It's good to be retired :thumbup: He is a member, I had him sign up on my last visit. I do OK, but with a 5 yr old, it's tough to find the time to finish up the projects. As for selling the grinders, he does it more for the fun of it, but I think he may have to pretty soon if he keeps accumulating them.


I feel the time issue as I have a 4 year old. I end up having to go in the garage late night after he falls asleep. Like last night when I did a quick clean and put this on eBay at 2am.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436479206.275362.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436479216.210035.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436479236.536844.jpg
 

torqueman2002

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Some comments in Blue.

I thought they all have relays. Yes, most do. Some early versions have a mechanical centrifugal activated cut-out switch in the RH housing, near the bearing, that OPENS the start-up coil circuit like the relay.
Here is a picture of the bottom.

The bypassed switch wires seem fine. The wiring matches the wiring of my other 1/2 Hp cap start. What and how do I need to test the relay and cap without getting electrocuted. I only have experience messing with automotive relays. IIRC - these relays are the potential differential type, and not the same as the ones we are familiar with in cars & trucks. I'll see if I can locate the information/resource I have on them. Found it, see below.

....

Capacitor Testing, Safe Discharging and Other Related Information
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_captest.html#CAPTEST_001

Potential Starting Relays
http://www.achrnews.com/articles/92424-know-your-potential-starting-relays

Current Starting Relays
http://www.achrnews.com/articles/98936-current-starting-relays

Klixon 4CR current type motor starting relay
Note: The Klixon 2CR has been replaced by the 4CR.
http://www.sensata.com/klixon/motor-protector-4cr.htm#overview
Download Data Sheet (PDF) "4cr.pdf"

I have some pictures to upload, back in a little while.
 
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torqueman2002

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I feel the time issue as I have a 4 year old. I end up having to go in the garage late night after he falls asleep. Like last night when I did a quick clean and put this on eBay at 2am.
:beer:

That will sell!

Flip It! Flip It Good! (sung to the sounds of Devo: "Whip It.")

Video, for our younger members;
 

dngrmse

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I feel the time issue as I have a 4 year old. I end up having to go in the garage late night after he falls asleep. Like last night when I did a quick clean and put this on eBay at 2am.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436479206.275362.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436479216.210035.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436479236.536844.jpg

Very nice. I agree with Torque, someone will definitely pick that up.
 

torqueman2002

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Some comments in Blue.



Capacitor Testing, Safe Discharging and Other Related Information
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_captest.html#CAPTEST_001

Potential Starting Relays
http://www.achrnews.com/articles/92424-know-your-potential-starting-relays

Current Starting Relays
http://www.achrnews.com/articles/98936-current-starting-relays

Klixon 4CR current type motor starting relay
Note: The Klixon 2CR has been replaced by the 4CR.
http://www.sensata.com/klixon/motor-protector-4cr.htm#overview
Download Data Sheet (PDF) "4cr.pdf"

I have some pictures to upload, back in a little while.
Pictures of a 1/2-HP rtop Block m-397.19590, wiring - power switch, relay, and start cap.

Dual Voltage wiring diagram.
Fi%20P1100195.jpg


Fi%20P1100178.jpg


Fi%20P1100176.jpg


Fi%20P1100177.jpg


Relay, bottom side.
Fi%20P1100182.jpg


Power switch, detail.
Fi%20P1100194.jpg


Fi%20P1100189.jpg


Fi%20P1100188.jpg


Fi%20P1100186.jpg


Capacitor information.
http://www.tedss.com/Capacitors/Browse/application-motor-start
Fi%20P1100185.jpg


Just 2 reasons I tear-down these guys:
> the terminal from the Blue coil wire to the power switch was hanging by 1 strand (Ohm/continuity test won't catch this; but a voltage drop will)
> the stone is :scared:
Fi%20P1100196.jpg


Fi%20P1100197.jpg


I'll draw-up a wiring diagram and post it a little later.

Done.
 

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hrosenberg43

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Easton, MD
I just picked up a 1/4 HP one, model 115.7561 which makes this one made in 1955. I paid $5 for it. It needs a new cord and both of the eye shield glasses are broken. I will add a pic later.

My question is where can I find replacement shatterproof glass? The tabs are all intact so putting in some glass should not be a real issue, I just don't know where you would get his stuff.
Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Howard
 

Outlawmws

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I just picked up a 1/4 HP one, model 115.7561 which makes this one made in 1955. I paid $5 for it. It needs a new cord and both of the eye shield glasses are broken. I will add a pic later.

My question is where can I find replacement shatterproof glass? The tabs are all intact so putting in some glass should not be a real issue, I just don't know where you would get his stuff.
Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Howard

I would opt for a trip to Tap Plastics and get some Lexan.

If you insist on Glass go to a "real" glass shop and get then to cut you some.
 

torqueman2002

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I would opt for a trip to Tap Plastics and get some Lexan.

If you insist on Glass go to a "real" glass shop and get then to cut you some.
What he said.

Well done. And welcome to the GJ and the Block grinder thread. :thumbup:

BTW - the tabs are fragile, and may break off. At least the 1st pair I restored had 2 tabs break off. Metal fatigue?

The next one I'll try heat.
 
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bagged89s10

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I just picked up a 1/4 HP one, model 115.7561 which makes this one made in 1955. I paid $5 for it. It needs a new cord and both of the eye shield glasses are broken. I will add a pic later.

My question is where can I find replacement shatterproof glass? The tabs are all intact so putting in some glass should not be a real issue, I just don't know where you would get his stuff.
Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Howard


If you get glass, make sure you get shatter proof glass. Any glass shop in your area should be able to cut you some. Or like outlaw said, get lexan. It's super strong. Lexan will scratch but you can polish it.
 

bagged89s10

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Torqueman, thanks for all the info. I am going to try to test the capacitor in a few. Whenever my son falls asleep I will head out to the garage. :thumbup:
 

JZiggy

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My local store said they had 2 in stock, but when I looked in the tray there were 8. Got them all.
 

bagged89s10

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What are the odds of finding glass eye shields and an old craftsman wire wheel at a tag sale but no grinder. :)

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436630443.616023.jpg
 
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