bagged89s10
Well-known member
My Dad's latest find- I think he paid 15 or 20 for it.
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After:
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Nice restore he did!
My Dad's latest find- I think he paid 15 or 20 for it.
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After:
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My Dad's latest find- I think he paid 15 or 20 for it.
I do have the Multitool 2 x 48 inch Belt Grinder Attachment (MT482) that's in-line for one of the Blocks.....
Doc: do you have a belt grinder or not a need for one?
Why, why yes, yes I do need it. Really!
bagged - Sorry to hear about your troubles.Need some help in diagnosing the problem with this grinder. This is the 397.1949 1/2hp commercial capacitor start block I picked up yesterday. There is no switch so I plugged it into a 110v switch box for testing. The wiring matches the wiring of my other blocks. It won't start unless I spin the wheels first by hand then flip the switch. What is wrong with it?
https://vimeo.com/133005848
Thanks.Doc: awesome job. can i be one of your nephews? did you sandblast the eye shields and the water trays?

It's funny, of the 5 kids between my younger brother and myself, only my daughter is within 20 mins of us.Hey, I'm south of the m/d line, should I keep an eye out for a package Uncle Tman?
Great job man, they will be happy!
The three nephews' Blocks are done.
It took five m-397.19580 and one m-397.19581 1/3-HP rtop Blocks; but, each has metal framed eye shields, small quench trays, lamps with shades, spark arrestors, tool rests, and the metal toggle switch.
Here are the last 2, that will be sent tomorrow (to South of the M-D Line!).
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Each Block got new bearings and updated electrics (replacement power cords, cleaned power switches and terminals), at a minimum.
The first Block is already in the possession of one nephew, but here are a few pics. of it during re-construction.
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bagged - Sorry to hear about your troubles.
It's acting like the start-winding/coil is not being energized at power-up.
I think this model has a relay, which are very reliable.
Check the start-winding/coil circuit and capacitor for faults.
If it does not have a relay, then it probably has a start-up switch/circuit that maybe malfunctioning.
I hope this helps.
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Thanks.Awesome job on those blocks!![]()
Did you paint them or are they all original paint?
Beautiful job he did. Do you know what the blue-ish metallic paint he used was? I really like that color.
I had some more time today to look for an owners manual for these models - 397.1959x.Well I think I does have a relay. I'll snap a picture of it tomorrow. Maybe the wire nut connections the previous owner used to bypass the switch are loose. I'll have to check that and I'll go look for a switch first.

Thanks,
Toyota Classic Green Pearl- he had a can of touch paint from his old 1997 Camry lying around- paint code 6p2
dngr - your Dad has raised the bar!Torqueman
Excellent job as always !

I had some more time today to look for an owners manual for these models - 397.1959x.
They do have a relay. Here's a VM link to a down loadable manual.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...jHanH3A1KW0A44OKw&sig2=6XYodCC_YFfhPSeSk2r7yQ
Some of the Block manuals have a wiring diagram, but not this one.![]()



JZiggy,
Nice score.
Those are unusual eye shields, did they come with the Block?
McB: are you trying to up your post count??
DM: your dad does amazing work and what's even better is I bet he's only owned that one a few days. your restorations are pretty nice too and did you learn a bit from Dad? also how to buy them for next to nothing so you might make a few sheckles in case you want to buy something for your shop? Is Dad a member and if not you need to get him to sign up and share some of his secrets?
Thanks for the kind words, and yes he had it done 2 days after he purchased it. It's good to be retiredHe is a member, I had him sign up on my last visit. I do OK, but with a 5 yr old, it's tough to find the time to finish up the projects. As for selling the grinders, he does it more for the fun of it, but I think he may have to pretty soon if he keeps accumulating them.



I thought they all have relays. Yes, most do. Some early versions have a mechanical centrifugal activated cut-out switch in the RH housing, near the bearing, that OPENS the start-up coil circuit like the relay.
Here is a picture of the bottom.
The bypassed switch wires seem fine. The wiring matches the wiring of my other 1/2 Hp cap start. What and how do I need to test the relay and cap without getting electrocuted. I only have experience messing with automotive relays. IIRC - these relays are the potential differential type, and not the same as the ones we are familiar with in cars & trucks. I'll see if I can locate the information/resource I have on them. Found it, see below.
....
I feel the time issue as I have a 4 year old. I end up having to go in the garage late night after he falls asleep. Like last night when I did a quick clean and put this on eBay at 2am.

Very nice. I agree with Torque, someone will definitely pick that up.
Pictures of a 1/2-HP rtop Block m-397.19590, wiring - power switch, relay, and start cap.Some comments in Blue.
Capacitor Testing, Safe Discharging and Other Related Information
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_captest.html#CAPTEST_001
Potential Starting Relays
http://www.achrnews.com/articles/92424-know-your-potential-starting-relays
Current Starting Relays
http://www.achrnews.com/articles/98936-current-starting-relays
Klixon 4CR current type motor starting relay
Note: The Klixon 2CR has been replaced by the 4CR.
http://www.sensata.com/klixon/motor-protector-4cr.htm#overview
Download Data Sheet (PDF) "4cr.pdf"
I have some pictures to upload, back in a little while.

I just picked up a 1/4 HP one, model 115.7561 which makes this one made in 1955. I paid $5 for it. It needs a new cord and both of the eye shield glasses are broken. I will add a pic later.
My question is where can I find replacement shatterproof glass? The tabs are all intact so putting in some glass should not be a real issue, I just don't know where you would get his stuff.
Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Howard
What he said.I would opt for a trip to Tap Plastics and get some Lexan.
If you insist on Glass go to a "real" glass shop and get then to cut you some.
I just picked up a 1/4 HP one, model 115.7561 which makes this one made in 1955. I paid $5 for it. It needs a new cord and both of the eye shield glasses are broken. I will add a pic later.
My question is where can I find replacement shatterproof glass? The tabs are all intact so putting in some glass should not be a real issue, I just don't know where you would get his stuff.
Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Howard