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let's see your craftsman block grinders

bagged89s10

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After looking forever I finally found one!



Pretty dusty but in good shape and only missing a shield. The tag is really weird though, only contains model, serial # and Sears.



What does that mean? Isn't that info necessary for sale?



Anyway, I got it and the cabinet for $15, It runs smooth and I'll bolt it to the cabinet and store my grinding/buffing wheels and organize sandpaper.



You ****! Just a faded label. At least you can print a new one.
 
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torqueman2002

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Poor wittle me...
The used tool market is great, but for some reason grinders are scarce. I have been stuck with this.


This thing has easily has ~23.6x the power of the home cheapo. Very scientific tests using a piece of rebar...

Thanks Drives and Jake! It will get put to good use. I'll update how the cabinet works with it but either way I am estatic to have gotten both.
Hmmmm, just wondering if any of those Ryobi parts would work on a Block ? :shocking:

I know, but the spark arresters, tools rests, eye shields/ hardware, wheel guard covers, .... Could be the difference for some poor abused/neglected Block, like this 1/2-HP m.397.19???? .
Fi%2050%20HP%20397.xxxx%20a.jpg
 
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torqueman2002

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Jun 3, 2009
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After looking forever I finally found one!

Pretty dusty but in good shape and only missing a shield. The tag is really weird though, only contains model, serial # and Sears.

What does that mean? Isn't that info necessary for sale?

Anyway, I got it and the cabinet for $15, It runs smooth and I'll bolt it to the cabinet and store my grinding/buffing wheels and organize sandpaper.
I just noticed there appears to be 2 nuts on the LH arbor. Probably the inner one was/is used as a spacer.

IMAG0148_zps760kimgb.jpg


FWIW - New spacers are available, through Graingers.

1/2" Arbor
http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Arbor-Spacer-1LNE5?nls=1&nlsit=0.8&ssf=2&searchQuery=1LNE5

5/8" Arbor
http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Arbor-Spacer-1LNE6?nls=1&nlsit=0.8&ssf=2&searchQuery=1LNE6
 

bulletpruf

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Line power frequency for Italy is listed as 50 hz, but I don't see how that would be an issue other than reduced rpm. At 50hz the grinder will just spin at 50/60 x 3450, or about 2875 rpm. Since that is a 7-inch grinder, the effective grinding speed (about 5300 ft/min) will be very close to that of a 6-inch grinder running at 60 hz, which is optimum for aluminum oxide wheels on carbon and high-speed steels.

Thanks, that's good info.

Scott
 

jakemac

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nine4gmc

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I would like to have that painted life size on the inside of my roll up door. :D

Please post that in the Awesome Thread where it belongs!! :lol:
 

exmaxima1

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:

Update.
"It is better to operate a 50 Hertz motor on 60 Hertz, then the reverse, but if it's not going to see heavy use it may be OK, and as said by others use a attachment plug to match the local style, Euro cords are brown, blue, and yellow w/ a green stripe,
brown is hot,
blue is neutral,
yellow/green is grounding/ earth." - R Meyers, OWWM

Running 60Hz motors on 50Hz power at full load will heat them up a bit, similar to using a VFD on a motor. You have to expect to derate their power capacity a commensurate amount, but a grinder will be fine.
 

bagged89s10

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Here's a block I just cleaned up for a GJ member. She purrs and takes close to a minute to wind down. Bye bye my first block I ever purchased. Has anyone found a source for printing aluminum labels?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442770046.390022.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442770057.310680.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442770071.234284.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442770146.505786.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442770174.202833.jpg
https://vimeo.com/139856193
 

nine4gmc

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Flip that aluminum tag over and stick a vinyl label on it. You can print one out on clear vinyl so it shows the aluminum through it or white background if you like.
 

bagged89s10

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Flip that aluminum tag over and stick a vinyl label on it. You can print one out on clear vinyl so it shows the aluminum through it or white background if you like.


That's a good idea. This one is going out at it is, but if I end up with one like this again I am going to try that.
 
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bagged89s10

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What's the best way to clean up these glass eye shields? I hate not being able to see thru the shields when using a grinder.
Window clean and a razor blade maybe? Or 0000 steel wool? I don't want to make them worse.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442801686.993474.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442801752.158256.jpg
 

nine4gmc

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Toothpaste, seriously. We used it to remove water spots and **** from auto windows before car shows. Run it in real good with a light must of water and buff it off. Headlight restore kits would work well too I would imagine.


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bagged89s10

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Toothpaste, seriously. We used it to remove water spots and **** from auto windows before car shows. Run it in real good with a light must of water and buff it off. Headlight restore kits would work well too I would imagine.


Sent from my iThingy using Tapatalk


These are spots from hot metal hitting the glass.
 

nine4gmc

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Yeah, like rock chips in windshields, you won't get them out but you can make the rest of the glass crystal clear.


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bfm336

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St. Louis, MO
02c82f705b9d4cbc385ff4ea13866fa1.jpg
08a352d4a9e2556e7c21b7ea96777ca9.jpg

Picked this guy up this weekend for $75. More than I would have liked to pay but worth it, great condition other than dry rot in the power cord which I'll replace. And some custom rests, which I may change as I will primarily use this with a wire wheel and buffing wheel to clean up old tools.


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bagged89s10

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02c82f705b9d4cbc385ff4ea13866fa1.jpg
08a352d4a9e2556e7c21b7ea96777ca9.jpg

Picked this guy up this weekend for $75. More than I would have liked to pay but worth it, great condition other than dry rot in the power cord which I'll replace. And some custom rests, which I may change as I will primarily use this with a wire wheel and buffing wheel to clean up old tools.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think that one is technically a pre-block. Still a great find with the stand. :thumbup:
 

torqueman2002

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Picked this guy up this weekend for $75. More than I would have liked to pay but worth it, great condition other than dry rot in the power cord which I'll replace. And some custom rests, which I may change as I will primarily use this with a wire wheel and buffing wheel to clean up old tools.
Bfm336 that is a great find ! Hell the stand is worth more than you paid for it!
I think that one is technically a pre-block. Still a great find with the stand. :thumbup:

bagged - Yup'ers! :drool:

fireman - Yes it is! BTW - are you still battling the forest fires? And, a big Thank You!

bfm - I love that striped [or is it stripped? I can never remember ;)] center band.

I've only seen 1 other example, on OWWM. It belongs to one of the moderators - Brian K.
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=16591

If you get a chance, perhaps you could post pics of your on their site also.

Brian K's. 1/2-HP m-115_7575 pre-Block with HD Base.
16591-A.jpg


16591-B.jpg
 
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bagged89s10

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spongerich

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Picked this one up at an estate sale a few months back.

I'd already bought a Logan 10" Lathe, Walker-Turner Drill Press, Benchmaster Milling Machine, KO Lee Tool and Cutter Grinder, Craftsman ball bearing rolling chest, and 2 SUV loads full of tools and tooling. She was asking $50 for the grinder and I already have 5 other grinders so I was planning to pass on it.

About the only things I hadn't bought were the grinder, an old Craftsman table saw and a Parker 3-1/2" Swivel Jaw vise. As I was about to leave, I asked her if she'd take $75 for the vise and the grinder and she agreed. She even included the custom dust catchers.

I'm extremely pleased with the grinder. It's amazingly smooth. It spins for an incredibly long time after it's powered down. I'll get around to replacing the label some day, but it's about #1205 on my project list.

grind1.jpg
.
grind2.jpg
.
grind3.jpg
 

torqueman2002

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Picked this one up at an estate sale a few months back.

I'd already bought a Logan 10" Lathe, Walker-Turner Drill Press, Benchmaster Milling Machine, KO Lee Tool and Cutter Grinder, Craftsman ball bearing rolling chest, and 2 SUV loads full of tools and tooling. She was asking $50 for the grinder and I already have 5 other grinders so I was planning to pass on it.

About the only things I hadn't bought were the grinder, an old Craftsman table saw and a Parker 3-1/2" Swivel Jaw vise. As I was about to leave, I asked her if she'd take $75 for the vise and the grinder and she agreed. She even included the custom dust catchers.

I'm extremely pleased with the grinder. It's amazingly smooth. It spins for an incredibly long time after it's powered down. I'll get around to replacing the label some day, but it's about #1205 on my project list.
Yes sir, that one's the Big Daddy!

You ****!

BTW - long spin down times are a function of wheel mass and bearing condition.

New bearings will have more 'drag' [therefore, longer relative spin down time] because of the grease packed bearings. As compared to smooth, older, dry bearings.

When you are ready to deal with the label, check the link in my sig line; there's a MS Word file with an editable label.

Also, if you find a file for the 'Sears Best' label, I like a copy for the thread.
:thumbup:
 
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bagged89s10

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Picked this one up at an estate sale a few months back.



I'd already bought a Logan 10" Lathe, Walker-Turner Drill Press, Benchmaster Milling Machine, KO Lee Tool and Cutter Grinder, Craftsman ball bearing rolling chest, and 2 SUV loads full of tools and tooling. She was asking $50 for the grinder and I already have 5 other grinders so I was planning to pass on it.



About the only things I hadn't bought were the grinder, an old Craftsman table saw and a Parker 3-1/2" Swivel Jaw vise. As I was about to leave, I asked her if she'd take $75 for the vise and the grinder and she agreed. She even included the custom dust catchers.



I'm extremely pleased with the grinder. It's amazingly smooth. It spins for an incredibly long time after it's powered down. I'll get around to replacing the label some day, but it's about #1205 on my project list.



grind1.jpg
.

grind2.jpg
.

grind3.jpg


Welcome to the 1hp flat top owners club, athough you bought yours before I had mine and you got a you **** price.

BADASS!
:rocker:
:thumbup:
 

bulletpruf

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San Antonio
I'm glad to hear it has 'caught-up' with you in Italy.

It will need the internal wiring re-arranged (see below diagram) to work on 220/230V. Be sure to verify if your power is 60 cycles, as jakemac mentioned.

:thumbup:

x5%20CM%200.50%20HP%20397.19591%20115V%20230V%20CCT%20P1100637.jpg

Doc -

Took the plate off - had a very nice wiring diagram on the backside. Removed one wire altogether and then swapped one end of another one. Used an adapter to plug into 220 outlet and it fired right up.

Seems to run great -- took 2:03 to come to a complete halt!

Figure I'll swap the wheels for some fresh ones -- I know I've seen recommendations here, but that may have been 50 pages ago, so does anyone have thoughts?

Need one rubber "foot" too -- it came with three. Might as well get a few spares. Anyone have the link or part # handy for these?

Anything else I need to do?

Thanks,

Scott
 
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