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let's see your craftsman block grinders

jakemac

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From what I'm seeing, the issue isn't running ink. It's wrinkling when applied. The decal paper may be stretching during application, causing the cracks in the ink.

What about using a larger water pan, and sliding the decal from the paper onto the metal plate while still in the water ?
 
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Pupuhd

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From what I'm seeing, the issue isn't running ink. It's wrinkling when applied. The decal paper may be stretching during application, causing the cracks in the ink.

What about using a larger water pan, and sliding the decal from the paper onto the metal plate while still in the water ?
The cracks in the ink are happening inside the water pan, before I even remove or apply. The first test without any weight, right side up, curled parallel to the cracks in the ink. The following still cracked even though it didn't curl due to the weight keeping it flat.

It seems to me the ink, not the water-slide, is shrinking therefore causing the cracks you see. I'm trying without further expense see if it's the ink from the inkjet printer or possibly cheap quality waterside paper. Still dont know.

I "see" said the blind man to the deaf man as he picked up his hammer and saw.
 

Pupuhd

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Ahhh, curiouser and curiouser. :headscrat

Here's another photo of another decal that I inserted into water with steel weight, however never applied. It came out of the water the way you see it. You can see four horizontal crack line in the ink on the left side.
Water Slide Label 05.jpg
My puzzler is getting puzzlered :wtf:

I'm thinking next to take my MS Word file and water-slide paper down to Staples and have them print one sheet on their printer. :dunno:
 

Exeter

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Part of the problem may be that the acrylic is water insoluble while the decal absorbs water and then shrinks or expands causing stress with the acrylic. Pure conjecture and not a solution, but food for thought. Maybe?
 

WWShop

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I need some opinions out of curiosity. I have a 1/4hp pre block and I'm curious how the 1/4hp pre block compares to the actual 1/4hp block grinder. Are they equal or is one better than the other?
 

exmaxima1

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I need some opinions out of curiosity. I have a 1/4hp pre block and I'm curious how the 1/4hp pre block compares to the actual 1/4hp block grinder. Are they equal or is one better than the other?

There seems to be a number of different styles, with significant differences in amperage. So it depends on what you have.
 

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WWShop

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Mine is 4.5 amp and is all blue. So these are not enclosed, and I'm curious the difference it makes between a enclosed and not enclosed grinder.
 

WWShop

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My 1/4 hp pre block. It runs smooth but I haven't used it for any grinding yet.
 

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exmaxima1

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My 1/4 hp pre block. It runs smooth but I haven't used it for any grinding yet.

With that amperage, and an estimated 40 lbs weight, I would say it would match up pretty well against a later model 1/2hp split phase, and probably run even smoother.
 

WWShop

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It is very heavy. Like i said I haven't used it to grind yet but does seem to have a lot of power.
 

alpinewhite

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Hello Alpine!

We understand, you are among friends. :)

Pictures, we want pictures!!






Oh, this is not a 12-step-program. :lol:

1/3 HP round top. Needs clean-up:
attachment.php


1/3 HP flat top ($35 with Craftsman stand). This is the only one I'm using now:
attachment.php


1/2 HP flat top ($35). Needs clean up:
attachment.php


3/4 HP flat top ($50). Seller didn't know how to wire it all up after powder-coating. I got her working. I've cleaned up the rusted fasteners since I took this picture:
attachment.php
 

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Exeter

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May 12, 2014
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I just put a Norton 3X 80 grit K wheel on a Raptor R3X bushing and fired up the 1/2 HP flat top I'm restoring. The wheel seats very tightly on the Raptor bushing. On the first spin there was some vibration although not bad. I trued up the radial runout and it runs very smoothly. There is only the very slightest of vibration. There is zero discernible lateral runout on the wheel.

Here's a video showing her run:
Craftsman 1/2 HP Grinder w/ Norton 3x wheel & Raptor bushings
 
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Kaervak

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I just bought two new norton gemini wheels but haven't mounted them yet. Those plastic arbor spacers they come with just seem like they'd be a problem right away and I've been looking for something better. I'm definitely going to keep the raptor bushings in mind.
 
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torqueman2002

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Someone in the MKE area needs to go buy this one as I am doing my best to resist as 4 is plenty :D

I am tempted just get it for the stand and it is a commercial cap start :headscrat

https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/5305667104.html

00101_eIokDXRXGfT_600x450.jpg

That's a very good price for a 1/2-HP m-397.19440 Block. The ad says 1/3-HP, but pictures tells a different story.
00T0T_cbA4vwokr2E_600x450.jpg


Resistance is futile -- just follow your heart. ;)
 

Pupuhd

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I just bought two new norton gemini wheels but haven't mounted them yet. Those plastic arbor spacers they come with just seem like they'd be a problem right away and I've been looking for something better. I'm definitely going to keep the raptor bushings in mind.
What I found to be a very tight fit were brass bushings over at McMaster-Carr. They were around $5 each. I installed 1" wheels instead of the standard 3/4", so I purchased 1" wide brass bushings. They were a snug fit onto the wheel holes and a slip fit onto the 1/2" arbor. You may want to give them a try. So far no issues on my end.

I "see" said the blind man to the deaf man as he picked up his hammer and saw.
 
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exmaxima1

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Very nice! Did you print a new label? Or just paint carefully around the original?

Exeter, you made a comment a few days ago that you might share your Photoshop artwork for the block label, and a number of GJ's responded that they would want it.

What is the verdict on that? I have Photoshop and would like to play with it as well. Let us know...
 

Exeter

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Exeter, you made a comment a few days ago that you might share your Photoshop artwork for the block label, and a number of GJ's responded that they would want it.

What is the verdict on that? I have Photoshop and would like to play with it as well. Let us know...

I decided not to post it. But I'll make it available on request. PM your email addy to me.
 

exmaxima1

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That is a nice setup at a fair price. I would be struggling myself.

I had contacted the seller, but didn't like his style. He told me he had 2 guys coming out tonight to see it, but if I could get there this afternoon he'd "give me first dibs". That's a crappy way to arrange a sale.
 

bagged89s10

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CT
Here's another photo of another decal that I inserted into water with steel weight, however never applied. It came out of the water the way you see it. You can see four horizontal crack line in the ink on the left side.

Water Slide Label 05.jpg

My puzzler is getting puzzlered :wtf:



I'm thinking next to take my MS Word file and water-slide paper down to Staples and have them print one sheet on their printer. :dunno:


I don't know the first thing about water slide labels but would different temperature water help?
 

Pupuhd

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I don't know the first thing about water slide labels but would different temperature water help?
Not that I'm aware of or read elsewhere. I'm going to first rule out the clear acrylic I sprayed on the sheet right after printing it. I'm going to purchase Testors decal spray and go from there. I'm thinking the clear acrylic is not flexible enough to let the water-slide film move when in the water, therefore causing the stress cracks.

I "see" said the blind man to the deaf man as he picked up his hammer and saw.
 

torqueman2002

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I had contacted the seller, but didn't like his style. He told me he had 2 guys coming out tonight to see it, but if I could get there this afternoon he'd "give me first dibs". That's a crappy way to arrange a sale.
I agree.

He's oozing bad karma.

I don't even want to deal with that sort of seller.
:headshake
 

dngrmse

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I skipped checking out a benchmaster mill yesterday- the seller was turning it into an auction- He told me "I'll be there at 5, a few guys are coming to look at it, come over and give me your best offer" No thanks.
 

torqueman2002

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I am wondering about using a wire wheel on aluminum (AL).

I think it is safe, but I thought it was safe to use a grinding stone on non-ferrous metal; until I learned the dangers.

I had several AL trim pieces for my work bench that needed 'cleaning-up', I was tempted to put the grinder stone to use! :scared:

But after reflection, decided the wire wheel grinder was a safer choice to remove the sharp and jagged edges left by the jig saw.

What do you think?
 

McBrownie

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I am wondering about using a wire wheel on aluminum (AL).

I think it is safe, but I thought it was safe to use a grinding stone on non-ferrous metal; until I learned the dangers.

I had several AL trim pieces for my work bench that needed 'cleaning-up', I was tempted to put the grinder stone to use! :scared:

But after reflection, decided the wire wheel grinder was a safer choice to remove the sharp and jagged edges left by the jig saw.

What do you think?

TM, I picked up a hand file made specifically for aluminum and it is amazing how much better it works than a standard file. Or, you could fire up a belt grinder. You do have one of those, don't you? :D
 

Pupuhd

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TM, I picked up a hand file made specifically for aluminum and it is amazing how much better it works than a standard file. Or, you could fire up a belt grinder. You do have one of those, don't you? :D
TM: I agree w/McBrownie here. You'll get a much better finish with a file and/or belt sander. I would stay away from the wire wheel due to poor quality finish. Also you'll have better control with a file or belt sander.

McBrownie: can you give your specs on the file for aluminum? I have about 100 different variations of files, but none specific to aluminum. Even have ones for plastic. Thanks.

I "see" said the blind man to the deaf man as he picked up his hammer and saw.
 

McBrownie

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McBrownie: can you give your specs on the file for aluminum? I have about 100 different variations of files, but none specific to aluminum. Even have ones for plastic. Thanks.

Luckily, I always carry pictures of my files around with me. Actually, I'm taking the day off, so here you go. :D
 

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exmaxima1

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Luckily, I always carry pictures of my files around with me. Actually, I'm taking the day off, so here you go. :D

I'm very surprised to see they are double cut files. I was under the impression that single cut mill files were best for aluminum, especially the curved cut style. Do your files have a special pitch to keep them from clogging?
 

McBrownie

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I'm very surprised to see they are double cut files. I was under the impression that single cut mill files were best for aluminum, especially the curved cut style. Do your files have a special pitch to keep them from clogging?

It does not clog, so I'm going to guess "yes". :D It's a coarser cut than a typical mill ******* file.
 

NJ Marty

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Got this at an estate sale today. I passed it up in the morning as the guy was asking too much and its missing the wheel guards and its 1/4HP. Sale was so good I went back in the afternoon and the grinder was still there. I got more goodies and asked if he would do $20 on the grinder and he said ok.
 

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torqueman2002

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TM, I picked up a hand file made specifically for aluminum and it is amazing how much better it works than a standard file. Or, you could fire up a belt grinder. You do have one of those, don't you? :D
Thanks. I didn't know there was a special file design for AL.

Another addition to my Christmas list. :D
 
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