let's see your craftsman block grinders

[softailgarage]

Was taking apart a 3/4 HP model...I am having a awful time removing the 2nd wheel, any tips??

Got a pic? What's the problem, the shaft or wheel. If its just stuck, spray with Kroil. If its the bearing, same as above and tap Lightly Using a dead blow or small ball pien to tap it out. Be careful not to crack the housing.

 

[CalsXS2]

Was taking apart a 3/4 HP model...I am having a awful time removing the 2nd wheel, any tips??

I think what you mean is the shaft is spinning and you can't break loose the nut. Is that right?

If so, it would be best to double nut the other end. But then you would have to go buy a nut. And hope you could find a left handed thread one if that's the end you need to double nut.

But no one's going to do that.

I just wrapped a rag around the shaft then gently clamped some vise grips on there. I did it in a spot that could be sanded smooth just in case.

That's just what I did. Maybe someone will come along with a better method.

And let's see some pics of that bad boy 3/4.

 

[torqueman2002]

Hey Torqueman,,,or anyone else for that matter. But I figure TM goes through these blocks.

There's a block grinder stator over on owwm.or for sale for $1 plus shipping. Stator only, so don't get excited by the pic. And he only has the stator. I all ready asked,,,lol.

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=84&t=170547

Thanks. PM sent.

 

[torqueman2002]

I think what you mean is the shaft is spinning and you can't break loose the nut. Is that right?

If so, it would be best to double nut the other end. But then you would have to go buy a nut. And hope you could find a left handed thread one if that's the end you need to double nut. ....

Pictures and more detail will help us give you the correct advise.

But if indeed the arbor/shaft nut is what you are trying to remove the above advise is good. The double nut method is tried-and-true.

I have also used an impact gun, set on low, to back off the arbor nut.

This, of course, is safe only for the removal of an arbor nut.

 

[CalsXS2]

Was taking apart a 3/4 HP model...I am having a awful time removing the 2nd wheel, any tips??

Just thought of something.

If it's the nut you can't get off, in case you didn't know it, the one on the left side is a reverse thread.

So go into more detail about the problem you are having.

 

[Nicodimas]

Pictures and more detail will help us give you the correct advise.

But if indeed the arbor/shaft nut is what you are trying to remove the above advise is good. The double nut method is tried-and-true.

I have also used an impact gun, set on low, to back off the arbor nut.

This, of course, is safe only for the removal of an arbor nut.

Yes this is what I am working on, I have tried soaking it with chemicals as it had a good amount of gunk on this side, it was caked in there really thick and looks like it has never been removed.

Yes this would be the left side of the grinder.

 

[torqueman2002]

Yes this is what I am working on, I have tried soaking it with chemicals as it had a good amount of gunk on this side, it was caked in there really thick and looks like it has never been removed.

Yes this would be the left side of the grinder.

Funny you should mention this.

Your question prompted me to start a thread: "How to change the stones/wheels on a Block grinder?"
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323969

I hope it is helpful.

A link will be including it in my "... What's the Fuss?" thread, linked in my signature line, below.

 

[Zeeman]

What a deal! I'm currently looking for one.

 

[torqueman2002]

What a deal! I'm currently looking for one.

Welcome to the GJ forum and the Block grinder thread.

1/3-HP and 1/2-HP (single voltage) Blocks can still be found for reasonable $$ on CL and estate sales.

I sent a nice 1/3-HP m-397.19580 rtop to 1 of my nephews in the Atlanta area, last summer.

He's taken it with him to even warmer climates - he moved near Ft. Lauderdale, FL.

Good luck with your search, and I/we love to see pictures of any Block.

 

[don long]

Hey guys
I finally found one. It's a 1/3 horse and I just couldn't resist bringing it home from an estate sale clean up project ( it was free)

I took the cup off during transportation and now I can't find it.

How rare is the stand? I haven't noticed one on here.

 

[CalsXS2]

Hey guys
I finally found one. It's a 1/3 horse and I just couldn't resist bringing it home from an estate sale clean up project ( it was free)

I took the cup off during transportation and now I can't find it.

How rare is the stand? I haven't noticed one on here.

Just a guess. But that may not be a grinder stand. But those more in the know will be along shortly.

Nice find!!

 

[torqueman2002]

Hey guys
I finally found one. It's a 1/3 horse and I just couldn't resist bringing it home from an estate sale clean up project ( it was free)

I took the cup off during transportation and now I can't find it.

How rare is the stand? I haven't noticed one on here.

The quench tray/cup is available, if you don't find the original.

I have a 1-HP Block on a CM stand like that.

Hmmmm, I drove 3+ hrs/1-way for the stand (and a 1/3-HP Block).

Free, you said.


Well, .....










......





, yes ....











no, no ......












well, danm!

 

[torqueman2002]

Oh,

 

[bagged89s10]

Hey guys
I finally found one. It's a 1/3 horse and I just couldn't resist bringing it home from an estate sale clean up project ( it was free)

I took the cup off during transportation and now I can't find it.

How rare is the stand? I haven't noticed one on here.

You ****! Nice find. I've seen a few blocks sold with those stand. Don't know how rare. You still ****!

 

[CalsXS2]

Guess I'll be getting this little scrawny 1/2 soon.

 

[Outlawmws]

It's not the most common stand for the grinders that's certain. It may be as mentioned a more universal stand. the Stand is 60's or so (Crown logo) the grinder may be earlier? look for a date on the bottom.

You keep this up Don, and it'll be Don.*****... like Joe in the vise thread! (Blood brothers?)

 

[drivesitfar]

Don: WELL DONE on saving that old Block. I'm pretty sure that is the original stand for block grinders because I have one just like it that I bought from the original owner that bought the block with the stand. it's a solid stand and could probably hold a vise or even a bigger power tool. i'll post up a picture as soon as I can dig it out to take one. or I've seen a few in this thread, but it might have been a couple years ago.

ALL: great stuff lately with all the label and Block talk. did you all see DOC's new thread about how to change the wheels on block grinders? here's the link and post up and give KUDOS to DOC or input if you have other ideas.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323969

at this point I haven't had any issues changing out grinder's wheels, but I did learn a few new tricks from the tips in that thread in case I do.

thanks DOC for spending some of your retirement teaching us

 

[PCMusicGuy]

Took the $5 grinder apart to see what kind of shape it is in on the inside. The biggest concern for me is the crack in the left side casing near the bearing holder. There is a piece of metal support for the stator/winding that is broken as well but it still fits very snug in place so I'm not as concerned about that. There is plenty of surface rust to clean off though.

Any suggestions for cleaning the rotor and stator? I can likely use some sandpaper on the outsides to knock off the rusty bits, but I've never messed with these types of parts before. I'm not too sure how sensitive they are to a good cleaning.

 

[Bogash]

Took the $5 grinder apart to see what kind of shape it is in on the inside. The biggest concern for me is the crack in the left side casing near the bearing holder. There is a piece of metal support for the stator/winding that is broken as well but it still fits very snug in place so I'm not as concerned about that. There is plenty of surface rust to clean off though.

Any suggestions for cleaning the rotor and stator? I can likely use some sandpaper on the outsides to knock off the rusty bits, but I've never messed with these types of parts before. I'm not too sure how sensitive they are to a good cleaning.

The guys here will know better and/or slap me down for saying this, but I have fixed similar cracks like that by V-ing the crack a little with a dremel then filling the V-ed crack with JB weld.... held for years on the cracked aluminum oil pan on a '90 Thunderbird SC.....

 

[CalsXS2]

Took the $5 grinder apart to see what kind of shape it is in on the inside. The biggest concern for me is the crack in the left side casing near the bearing holder. There is a piece of metal support for the stator/winding that is broken as well but it still fits very snug in place so I'm not as concerned about that. There is plenty of surface rust to clean off though.

Any suggestions for cleaning the rotor and stator? I can likely use some sandpaper on the outsides to knock off the rusty bits, but I've never messed with these types of parts before. I'm not too sure how sensitive they are to a good cleaning.

Like Bogash said, jb weld. Or I seen something new called Q-Bond. It's basically crazy glue with a filler. It might flow into the crack better. But I've never used the stuff. Kinda price if I remember right.

 

[Vette10R]

Is there a thread on GJ for restoring these step by step? I've tried searching and didn't come up with anything so figured I'd ask. Thanks

 

[drivesitfar]

Vette: here's the latest one you can read where Ziggy restored his 1HP and showed us how. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319227&highlight=1hp+ziggy

McB has a thread in general tools about his Blockmeister that he turned a block into a belt grinder

DOC has had several and his GO BLUE is on here or maybe on OWWM where he also is a member

there are many others and almost every fix is in this thread too if you have a little time to read all the posts. you can pass on all of mine since I haven't done a restoration yet, but I am the one usually asking a lot of the questions.

good luck

 

[Vette10R]

Vette: here's the latest one you can read where Ziggy restored his 1HP and showed us how. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319227&highlight=1hp+ziggy

McB has a thread in general tools about his Blockmeister that he turned a block into a belt grinder

DOC has had several and his GO BLUE is on here or maybe on OWWM where he also is a member

there are many others and almost every fix is in this thread too if you have a little time to read all the posts. you can pass on all of mine since I haven't done a restoration yet, but I am the one usually asking a lot of the questions.

good luck

Thanks man that's what I was looking for! Should help a lot I appreciate it!

 

[Pupuhd]

CM BLOCK GRINDER BADGES

Anyone who has been following my Machine Name Plate Tag Reproduction: thread(http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323165), well all five 397.19580 INDUSTRIAL RATED badges have sold and mostly shipped. S4cruiser just took delivery of the first so bug him to post the results. With that said this week I'll be ordering two additional badge models requested here by others.

First is model 397.19580 non INDUSTRIAL RATED. I will have six made, however three are already sold. The finish on these will be as the INDUSTRIAL RATED ones, "shear matte/satin" with the brush aluminum showing through.

Second is the gold background version, model 397.19670. These will be in a gloss finish to shine up the gold background. No exposed aluminum on this one. Two out of the six are already sold.

In the near future I'll be reproducing model 397.19410 with the ON/OFF/BRAKE at bottom. Anyhow thanks for viewing and interest-David

Asking $12 each (includes 4 aluminum solid rivets) plus flat rate for any amount USPS First Class $2.60 with Tracking Number.

SPECS:
- .045 thick aluminum with brush finish. Same finish as original badges however thicker, clear background will show through as original
- 2-5/8" x 3-5/32" x .045"
- 1/8" mounting holes. Will need to be slightly enlarge to line up with CM grinder center steel band
- Image is infused into the aluminum and can be cleaned with household glass cleaner
- Four (4) aluminum solid rivets included

You can PM contact info (name & address). Personal check or Paypal.

Depending on interest here, I may/can make more lots available. Also looking for any request in lots to make available.

 

[vertguy]

Great work Pup!! Do you have a source for getting non-metallic labels printed? I am struggling trying find one that will do low volume work with a high resolution Illustrator file for a couple 70's blocks?

 

[JZiggy]

Pup,

Stop, just stop it

You're making us all drool too much

Again, nice work

 

[CalsXS2]

CM BLOCK GRINDER BADGES

Anyone who has been following my Machine Name Plate Tag Reproduction: thread(http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323165), well all five 397.19580 INDUSTRIAL RATED badges have sold and mostly shipped. S4cruiser just took delivery of the first so bug him to post the results. With that said this week I'll be ordering two additional badge models requested here by others.

First is model 397.19580 non INDUSTRIAL RATED. I will have six made, however three are already sold. The finish on these will be as the INDUSTRIAL RATED ones, "shear matte/satin" with the brush aluminum showing through.


Depending on interest here, I may/can make more lots available. Also looking for any request in lots to make available.

Could you get this one made from Torquemans file. It's just a sticker. But it has a serial number too that I may want changed to mine if possible.

It needs to be 4-7/16" wide x 3-7/8" tall.

I have a local guy that does vinyl stickers that is going to try. But I'm not holding my breath,,,lol.

 

[mbsinmich]

They look great David--I can't wait to get mine!!!

CM BLOCK GRINDER BADGES

Anyone who has been following my Machine Name Plate Tag Reproduction: thread(http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323165), well all five 397.19580 INDUSTRIAL RATED badges have sold and mostly shipped. S4cruiser just took delivery of the first so bug him to post the results. With that said this week I'll be ordering two additional badge models requested here by others.

First is model 397.19580 non INDUSTRIAL RATED. I will have six made, however three are already sold. The finish on these will be as the INDUSTRIAL RATED ones, "shear matte/satin" with the brush aluminum showing through.

Second is the gold background version, model 397.19670. These will be in a gloss finish to shine up the gold background. No exposed aluminum on this one. Two out of the six are already sold.

In the near future I'll be reproducing model 397.19410 with the ON/OFF/BRAKE at bottom. Anyhow thanks for viewing and interest-David

Asking $12 each (includes 4 aluminum solid rivets) plus flat rate for any amount USPS First Class $2.60 with Tracking Number.

SPECS:
- .045 thick aluminum with brush finish. Same finish as original badges however thicker, clear background will show through as original
- 2-5/8" x 3-5/32" x .045"
- 1/8" mounting holes. Will need to be slightly enlarge to line up with CM grinder center steel band
- Image is infused into the aluminum and can be cleaned with household glass cleaner
- Four (4) aluminum solid rivets included

You can PM contact info (name & address). Personal check or Paypal.

Depending on interest here, I may/can make more lots available. Also looking for any request in lots to make available.

 

[Pupuhd]

Great work Pup!! Do you have a source for getting non-metallic labels printed? I am struggling trying find one that will do low volume work with a high resolution Illustrator file for a couple 70's blocks?

No source yet, currently concentrating on the metallic ones. Most, more than a dozen, that I need for myself are in this format. Are yours plastic? If so why go with plastic unless you want to be authentic about the rebuild. Why not aluminum? Only part you'll see aluminum is the side edge, that's if the badge is all colors. Just a thought.

Pup,

Stop, just stop it

You're making us all drool too much

Again, nice work

Thanks and no thanks to your original post with your badge reproduction from Bayphoto.

Could you get this one made from Torquemans file. It's just a sticker. But it has a serial number too that I may want changed to mine if possible.

It needs to be 4-7/16" wide x 3-7/8" tall.

I have a local guy that does vinyl stickers that is going to try. But I'm not holding my breath,,,lol.

If that image is clear, I don't see a problem. I'm assuming that's the plastic version, you don't mind it being reproduced on aluminum? I'll have to see how many I can get to a sheet size in order to keep cost down for you guys.

How much interest is there in this model or versions of this original plastic badge?

David

 

[vertguy]

The 70's blocks changed to a thin label that appeared to be something like foil when I removed one (no rivets, just adhesive). They are very different than the metal ones you are having made. I created a Illustrator file for both a 397.19340 and 397.19350, now I just need to find someone that does die cut printing... without 100+ mins. And for some reason when I exported to a jpg, they lost a lot of clarity. Which is why I want to print from the Illustrator file.

 

[Bogash]

Got it home! Judging by the wasps nests on the left wheel, it hasn't seen service in a while. Check out the motor tag! Only thing wrong I can see if some electrical tape on the cord, easy fix. Should clean up real nice. Pretty cool for $50.00 I think! Happy happy happy!

Okay. Here is is. Cleaned up really nice! Rustoleum Hammered Black for stand and Rustoleum Satin Nickel for center tin. Nothing for body, it shined up nicely. I have $68.01 in it plus my time.

 

[McBrownie]

With all of the new labels coming out, which look Great, by the way, I began wondering about how to actually measure electric motor output (not that anyone would dare put a 3/4hp label on a 1/4hp machine ). This doesn't explain how to measure, but how to estimate based on current draw:

http://inspectapedia.com/electric/Electric_Motor_Horsepower.php


I took part of TM's spreadsheet and came up with the following. Some good deals with the lower HP models.

View media item 59212

 

[Pupuhd]

The 70's blocks changed to a thin label that appeared to be something like foil when I removed one (no rivets, just adhesive). They are very different than the metal ones you are having made. I created a Illustrator file for both a 397.19340 and 397.19350, now I just need to find someone that does die cut printing... without 100+ mins. And for some reason when I exported to a jpg, they lost a lot of clarity. Which is why I want to print from the Illustrator file.

Yeah, the "mininum" order would be a killer. I had same issue here in town with a few printing shops when I originally thought of making stickers and applying to new aluminum. Depending on your feelings towards the CM rebuilds, you may want to rethink your strategy. That's what I did.

I'm far from an expert on Illustrator, however I've learned "a thing or three". When you created your AI file, did you create the artboard to the same dimensions as your badge? When you exported it to JPG, did you set the Image Quality to Maximum?

The JPG images in the above post have no lost in clarity or detail. Artboard sized to badge dimensions, Export image quality set to maximum.

David

 

[NJ Marty]

Can anyone make out the HP of the grinder in pics #53 &55? my eyes are not that good and the pictures ****. I plan on hitting the sale and hoping its at least a 1/2 HP. Pictures are prob to bad for positive ID.
Thanks

https://www.estatesales.net/NJ/Totowa/07512/1143900

 

[Pupuhd]

With all of the new labels coming out, which look Great, by the way, I began wondering about how to actually measure electric motor output (not that anyone would dare put a 3/4hp label on a 1/4hp machine ). This doesn't explain how to measure, but how to estimate based on current draw:

Soooooo, what you're saying "I can't" do this to my now .4488 horse power CM grinder?

 

[mbsinmich]

I can not make it out either. I may be wrong, but I think that is what they call a "pre-block" grinder. Torqueman will know for sure.

Can anyone make out the HP of the grinder in pics #53 &55? my eyes are not that good and the pictures ****. I plan on hitting the sale and hoping its at least a 1/2 HP. Pictures are prob to bad for positive ID.
Thanks

https://www.estatesales.net/NJ/Totowa/07512/1143900

 

[S4cruiser]

David's labels look amazing! Just waiting on a rivet set to complete the install.

Pics forth coming!

Also in for the 1 of the on/off/brake labels!

 

[mbsinmich]

Good to know about David's labels, I'm getting one of them myself!

David's labels look amazing! Just waiting on a rivet set to complete the install.

Pics forth coming!

Also in for the 1 of the on/off/brake labels!

 

[vertguy]

Yeah, the "mininum" order would be a killer. I had same issue here in town with a few printing shops when I originally thought of making stickers and applying to new aluminum. Depending on your feelings towards the CM rebuilds, you may want to rethink your strategy. That's what I did.



I'm far from an expert on Illustrator, however I've learned "a thing or three". When you created your AI file, did you create the artboard to the same dimensions as your badge? When you exported it to JPG, did you set the Image Quality to Maximum?



The JPG images in the above post have no lost in clarity or detail. Artboard sized to badge dimensions, Export image quality set to maximum.



David

The art board is the starting backdrop, correct? If so, I did indeed make it exactly the same dimensions as the label as that is how I kept everything else to the right proportions. Also set the quality to max. So maybe it was just me thinking the results changed for the jpg. Think I found place online and took a chance as they had no min. Not the cheapest, but we shall see how they turn out. I used a png version as they not would accept the illustrator file.

Good info on the "real" hp for these grinders. But keeping the original rating on the label is like dropping a big block in an old Nova and keeping the 350 fender emblems.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[drivesitfar]

PUP: great work on the labels. sorry i'm blockless in SEATTLE currently, but some day i'll find some 3/4 and 1 HP versions. thanks for doing all the work to make those labels and for offering them up at a great price.

Marty: it is a pre block Craftsman but I personally LOVE that style and the metal eye shields and paint. my guess by the size of the wheels is that it is a 1/3 or probably a 1/4 HP, but that means it's probably a better grinder than a new 1/2 HP the way that they measure HP now.

good luck and i'm sure you'll find something in a drawer or bring the lathe home.

Vette: you're welcome.