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Tool_Master

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Jan 16, 2016
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189
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Southern California
Gentlemen, I have my vintage Craftsman grinder on this original stand and the whole thing vibrates and moves around when I turn it on. Short of anchoring it to the concrete do you have any tricks on reducing the vibration and stopping it from dancing around?

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exmaxima1

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Jun 25, 2011
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Gentlemen, I have my vintage Craftsman grinder on this original stand and the whole thing vibrates and moves around when I turn it on. Short of anchoring it to the concrete do you have any tricks on reducing the vibration and stopping it from dancing around?

Buy a diamond wheel dresser and true up the wheels. In the meantime, make sure the wheels are not wobbling side-to-side---shim the hubs with strips of tape if necessary. Then slowly dress the wheels concentric with the diamond tool and the vibration should disappear.
 

Tool_Master

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Jan 16, 2016
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189
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Southern California
Buy a diamond wheel dresser and true up the wheels. In the meantime, make sure the wheels are not wobbling side-to-side---shim the hubs with strips of tape if necessary. Then slowly dress the wheels concentric with the diamond tool and the vibration should disappear.



Thank you exmaxima1, I have a stone wheel on one side and a wire brush on another, do you think that's the problem?


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Rileysan

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Sep 11, 2015
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Milwaukie, Oregon
I picked up a 1/3HP pre-block from a local thrift store today for $28. It was too nice to pass up. Dammit, I don't need another grinder!

Brian
 

exmaxima1

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Thank you exmaxima1, I have a stone wheel on one side and a wire brush on another, do you think that's the problem?

I would say it's the stone wheel out of balance. Wire wheels don't weigh much and don't contribute to vibration nearly as much as the heavier stones. Of course the easy way to tell is to remove the WW and see for yourself. I have a pair of WW on a block grinder and it has zero vibration, but an undressed wheel will shake like crazy.
 

MercLSU

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Oct 17, 2015
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Baton Rouge, LA
It seems it's feast or famine here. Yesterday morning I pulled the trigger on a 1/2 HP industrial round top...

grinder1.jpg

grinder2.jpg


...and then two hours later found a 1 HP flat top on Craigslist. I've been chasing a 1 HP block for a while with no luck. I know, I know, it's just a number, but it was still on my list.

WP_20161107_18_39_26_Pro.jpg

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The latter came with a lot of extra grinding wheels but may not use them due to their age.
 

McBrownie

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Mar 27, 2014
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Cleveland, OH
It seems it's feast or famine here. Yesterday morning I pulled the trigger on a 1/2 HP industrial round top...

...and then two hours later found a 1 HP flat top on Craigslist. I've been chasing a 1 HP block for a while with no luck. I know, I know, it's just a number, but it was still on my list.

The latter came with a lot of extra grinding wheels but may not use them due to their age.

Merc,

Congrats on the 1hp. Glad to see you got an "Industrial Rated" round top. I don't what it means and I knew I didn't have the only one. Any dates on yours?

View media item 50168
 

Blackwolfe

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Sep 28, 2016
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53
Location
Sunset MI
Picked up a 1/3 HP No. 397.19580 if I remember correctly as I don't have the number handy right now. I think I saw somewhere in this post that quench trays are still available, but can't find it right now. If I remember correctly the post said that both large and small are available. Would this grinder take a large one, or a small one? The grinder as a slot in it below the switch that I think the tray hooks into.

I could not find a date code on the bottom plate. Did they not date them either before or after a certain date, or did mine get missed or wear off?

Thank you.
Wolfe
 
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vertguy

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Apr 6, 2010
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SE WI
Finally had time this week to start restoring my 3/4 cap start. It was actually in decent shape once degreased, but still wanted to strip/paint. Not sure how I survived without a blast cabinet as it makes the stripping process go very quickly. And based on the debris on the top of the pedestal, I doubt the grinder was ever removed.

Also did a quick wipe down of the stand from a recently acquired 1/3 and this one will stay original as it is super clean. The color looks very similar to my CM 150 DP, especially on the head unit which has less fading.

Including a before shot:
 

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torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
Finally had time this week to start restoring my 3/4 cap start. It was actually in decent shape once degreased, but still wanted to strip/paint. Not sure how I survived without a blast cabinet as it makes the stripping process go very quickly. And based on the debris on the top of the pedestal, I doubt the grinder was ever removed.

Also did a quick wipe down of the stand from a recently acquired 1/3 and this one will stay original as it is super clean. The color looks very similar to my CM 150 DP, especially on the head unit which has less fading.

Including a before shot:
Nice job!

Another grand CM Block ready for another few decades of service! :thumbup:

You probably will replace that sketchy grinding stone. Let us know if you need ideas on where to source them; MSC, and Grainger come to mind.

Oh, I fixed Wolfe up with a quench tray when we got together in Jackson, MI. today.
 

Blackwolfe

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Sunset MI
Nice job!

Another grand CM Block ready for another few decades of service! :thumbup:

You probably will replace that sketchy grinding stone. Let us know if you need ideas on where to source them; MSC, and Grainger come to mind.

Oh, I fixed Wolfe up with a quench tray when we got together in Jackson, MI. today.

Thank you Mike.
 
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vertguy

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Apr 6, 2010
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SE WI
Looks like I need a larger snap ring plier for removing the ones from the shaft on my 3/4 hp as my rather small Waldes Truarc are not strong enough. Any recommendation on which size plier for these rings?
 

WWShop

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Aug 25, 2015
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MN
Finally had time this week to start restoring my 3/4 cap start. It was actually in decent shape once degreased, but still wanted to strip/paint. Not sure how I survived without a blast cabinet as it makes the stripping process go very quickly. And based on the debris on the top of the pedestal, I doubt the grinder was ever removed.

Also did a quick wipe down of the stand from a recently acquired 1/3 and this one will stay original as it is super clean. The color looks very similar to my CM 150 DP, especially on the head unit which has less fading.

Including a before shot:

Looks great! I just refinished my stand as well. Any pics of the DP?
 

vertguy

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Here's the 150...
 

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bagged89s10

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Mar 13, 2005
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CT
I'm trying to get rid of some stuff in my garage and I have one, possibly 2 block grinder stands i'm going to be selling. PM me if interested.
 

Mintgrun

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Kingston, Wa.
I added this little table to the tool rest, so I could use this cutoff wheel.
I find it very useful.
005.jpg

The grinder on the left has a medium and a fine wire wheel.
Those seem to get a lot of use around here too.

The Rockwell grinder in back has two green wheels on it.

(That little old egg beater drill is a fun way to put a point on tungsten for the TIG torch).

All three of these grinders are half horse models.

I have had the block with the wire wheels since I bought it new in the early eighties. That was the first power tool I ever bought and it is still going strong!
 

bagged89s10

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I added this little table to the tool rest, so I could use this cutoff wheel.

I find it very useful.

005.jpg



The grinder on the left has a medium and a fine wire wheel.

Those seem to get a lot of use around here too.



The Rockwell grinder in back has two green wheels on it.



(That little old egg beater drill is a fun way to put a point on tungsten for the TIG torch).



All three of these grinders are half horse models.



I have had the block with the wire wheels since I bought it new in the early eighties. That was the first power tool I ever bought and it is still going strong!



That's a cool setup. I like it as it would really come in handy for cutting bolts down to lengths, or any other small material.

Did you just get a 6" or 7" wheel and space it out with a bushing?
 

Mintgrun

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Kingston, Wa.
Thank you, I think this is one more reason for owning multiple bench grinders.

It does work well for nipping off bolts and things. I also use it to follow the contours of curvy pieces, or putting notches in things....

It is a seven inch cut-off wheel, made by Radnor, for steel, or stainless.
004.jpg

I used a bronze bushing as a spacer.
003.jpg

001.jpg
 

Mintgrun

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Kingston, Wa.
I 'stole' the idea from John Postma, of Poulsbo Machine (shop).
I had seen his setup years ago and finally put one together.
It is very useful. Do it! Do it!
Tom
 

bagged89s10

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Thank you, I think this is one more reason for owning multiple bench grinders.



It does work well for nipping off bolts and things. I also use it to follow the contours of curvy pieces, or putting notches in things....



It is a seven inch cut-off wheel, made by Radnor, for steel, or stainless.

004.jpg



I used a bronze bushing as a spacer.

003.jpg



001.jpg



Do you have a link to the cut off wheel? Also what size arbor hole is on it and what reducing bushing did you use?
 

vertguy

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Apr 6, 2010
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SE WI
Thinned the heard some more today as the last 1/3hp sold and more than paid for itself (paid $30, sold for $75 and kept the pedestal stand). But Mintgrun's cut off setup has changed my mind to keep the 2nd 3/4hp.

X2 on more details :thumbup:
 
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exmaxima1

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Do you have a link to the cut off wheel? Also what size arbor hole is on it and what reducing bushing did you use?

7-inch cutoff wheels are pretty common, and even available at HF:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-cut-off-wheel-for-metal-39679.html

Most have 5/8" bore so you will need a reducer bushing if your grinder only has a 1/2" arbor. I find them very useful for small things, as employed on my "Frankenstein" belt grinder. They don't cut real fast at only 3600 rpm, so you have pretty good control as well.
 

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bagged89s10

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CT
7-inch cutoff wheels are pretty common, and even available at HF:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-cut-off-wheel-for-metal-39679.html

Most have 5/8" bore so you will need a reducer bushing if your grinder only has a 1/2" arbor. I find them very useful for small things, as employed on my "Frankenstein" belt grinder. They don't cut real fast at only 3600 rpm, so you have pretty good control as well.



Ok so it's the same ones made for angle grinders. I can get some from work but we only make ones with 7/8" arbor. Do they make a reducer from 7/8" to 1/2"?
 
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