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let's see your craftsman block grinders

wrxr7

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2015
Messages
13
Location
Tonawanda, NY
Nice find! :thumbup:

I'm surprised the Buffalo/Niagara area doesn't seem to have the supply of other NE industrial centers. IIRC - there is/was a lot of manufacturing, leaving me to think there would e a steady supply of Blocks, like in SE Michigan. But, I haven't found that to be the case.

That will serve you well.

Thanks! I recently read one of your posts where you mentioned you were originally from the WNY area, so I was hoping you'd chime in.

You are correct that it's surprisingly slim pickings around here. I guess everyone is hoarding their block grinders!

I definitely did not pay a "you ****" price, but it was what I considered a fair price for both me and the seller, based on the inclusion of the stand and the completeness of the unit.

I just ordered a new Norton wheel for it, and hope to have it cleaned up soon. I'll definitely be putting it to good use!

Thank you for providing such a vast wealth of knowledge on these grinders!
 
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cajunfirehawk

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2011
Messages
2,566
Location
Ms Gulf Coast
isuk teaser pics...

What has torqueman created :lol_hitti some teaser pics...
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McBrownie

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Messages
1,827
Location
Cleveland, OH
Ha! Those are Western and Central NY town names, I recognize them.

Where are you lucky bastages finding these NIB Blocks, anyway? :dunno: :beer:

Oh, a 'little' get of my own today. ;)

Kodak was in Rochester, NY too. It mentions them giving a gift to Alfred technical college. So, were blocks assembled in Western New York?
 

cajunfirehawk

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2011
Messages
2,566
Location
Ms Gulf Coast
cajunfirehawk - are those CM spinner ratchets in your avatar all yours? !! I count 5, 6?
Um...maybe :pimpflash
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Originally Posted by torqueman2002
Ha! Those are Western and Central NY town names, I recognize them.

Where are you lucky bastages finding these NIB Blocks, anyway? :dunno: :beer:
And its all YOUR fault Dr Block! :evil:
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The middle box block;
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Fluxion

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
171
Location
Topeka. Kansas
I picked up this one at an auction recently for $15, I think I did ok. It needs bearings so It will get stripped down and get a paint job soon. Does anybody know what the stand is from?


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InkedForLife

Active member
Joined
Jul 22, 2012
Messages
36
Location
PDXish
Picked this up when I bought most of a home machine shop from a gentleman who passed away late last year. He made parts for mopars in particular and vintage autos in general.
Craftsman commercial 1/2 horsepower crown top.
 

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bagged89s10

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
I couldn't say no to purchasing this brand-new block grinder for 50 bucks

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bagged89s10

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
Bags, you SUUUUUUUUUUICK! Nice pick up for sure. Going to actually use it??



Probably not. The previous owner said he got it new as a gift. used it once but then put it back in the box. I'll probably sell it. I have enough for myself to use.
 
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bagged89s10

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Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
Decided to throw some wax on her to make her shine. Boy this thing is nice. I also just realized it has a brake feature to slow down the wheels. I don't think I've seen that style switch before. The price tag on the box says $42.99. So with inflation from 1966, equates to $323 or so. Model 397.19410
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damnesia

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Joined
Jan 16, 2014
Messages
221
Location
Northern MN
Can someone educate me on what you guys like so much about these grinders? I see 4 on the craiger right now for 40 to 50. All 1/3Hp. I think a little to small for my needs but I'm curious why so many people are into them. Just think they're cool?
 

bagged89s10

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Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
Anyone know how the brake switch is wired and works? wondering if it can be integrated into another block without that option.
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,190
Location
The Badlands
Can someone educate me on what you guys like so much about these grinders? I see 4 on the craiger right now for 40 to 50. All 1/3Hp. I think a little to small for my needs but I'm curious why so many people are into them. Just think they're cool?

If you read the thread from the beginning, you will get a pretty good idea; but IMHO this class of grinders is about as good as it gets until you jump to full industrial grinders like Baldor, Wissots, and the like. For a grinder marketed to the homeowner, many were put to use in commercial situations, particularly repair and some fabrication shops that weren't so into heavy fab.

Well built, lasts for decades, good power; whats not to like?

FYI, I use a 1/3 for my primary wire wheel use - admittedly it's a fine wire wheel, but that's what I usually use.
 

bubinga

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Joined
Jul 26, 2014
Messages
12,744
Location
Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
Can someone educate me on what you guys like so much about these grinders? I see 4 on the craiger right now for 40 to 50. All 1/3Hp. I think a little to small for my needs but I'm curious why so many people are into them. Just think they're cool?
:scared:
Gilliagns Island.
I lived at "Gilliagn's court" for a while.....lol
There is a good read on that. I kind O wondered the same thing at one time.
GJ set me straight!
here's the link.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249539
 

torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Anyone know how the brake switch is wired and works? wondering if it can be integrated into another block without that option.
Hey bagged,

As far as I can tell, the 1/3-HP m-387.19410 I have, uses 2 Diodes and a ceramic wire wound resistor, mounted to an internal circuit board.

My guess is an opposing field voltage is generated, to bring the rotor to a quick stop, when the DPDT switch is in the 'BRAKE' position. Since the rotor doesn't reverse, maybe the purpose of the 2 diodes is to 'chop off' the voltage wave and pass only the part of the wave that is 180 degrees out of phase, with the power wave. The resistor would then act as a load for the 'chopped' off portion?

The above is not accurate. I found the following (see link below for more info): "By applying a DC voltage to the stationary windings once the AC is removed, a magnetic field is created in the stator that will not change polarity.
In turn, this constant magnetic field in the stator creates a magnetic field in the rotor. Since the magnetic field of the stator is not changing in polarity, it will attempt to stop the rotor when the magnetic fields are aligned (N to S and S to N).

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Link.
http://electrical-engineering-portal.com/methods-braking-motor
 
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Mark in Indiana

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 11, 2010
Messages
3,057
Location
Southern Indiana
All,

There are some beautiful restorations and NOS grinders here.
I'm new to the block grinders. I acquired both a 6" - 1/3hp. and 8" - 3/4hp. C-Man block grinders last weekend. Both made in the 1960s.

Before having them, I really didn't know why they are so popular. After reading this thread and running both of them, I can see why.

Here are some pictures:
 

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EOC_Jason

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Joined
Jun 25, 2012
Messages
11,388
Location
Bentonville, AR
Can someone educate me on what you guys like so much about these grinders? I see 4 on the craiger right now for 40 to 50. All 1/3Hp. I think a little to small for my needs but I'm curious why so many people are into them. Just think they're cool?

Because they are overbuilt and underrated on the HP (vs actual amps)...

Sure you could go to the big box store and spend $50-$130+ on a new consumer bench grinder and it will **** *** except for maybe grinding toothpicks and even then will still come to a screeching halt with the slightest bit of force against the wheel....

Or you could pick up one of these old beauties and get some work done... :)

I have a 1/2 HP model (5.2A) and to me the power / torque is *just right*. It's not under-powered, but at the same time it's not so strong you feel like it will rip whatever you are holding right out of your hand and shoot it across the room.

I have a 3/4 HP old Dayton that amp-wise (10.8A) easily puts it in the 1 HP ballpark. I'll be honest, it scares me a little with it roaring at 3500 RPM with such a big motor... I typically only use it for heavy grinding, and when using the wire wheel I'm extremely cautious because you can put a LOT of weight into it and it will hardly slow down. If it grabbed something, injuries and chaos would ensue before you could blink and realize what was going on...

I bought a little 6" Ryobi from a garage sale, but I only use it for buffing with cloth wheels. I can literally stop it with my hand.... I can't imagine using it with a grinding stone and getting any real work done with it... Maybe drill bits?
 

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,190
Location
The Badlands
Maybe peruse the Ereplacements parts list and see if the outer winding are the same, braked and non-braked?

If they are, a donor or some careful parts matching might get you there? :dunno:

ps: the card holding those parts is all hardwired connections or buss plates, and could be easily duplicated

Anyone know how the brake switch is wired and works? wondering if it can be integrated into another block without that option.

Hey bagged,

As far as I can tell, the 1/3-HP m-387.19410 I have, uses 2 Diodes and a ceramic wire wound resistor, mounted to an internal circuit board.

My guess is an opposing field voltage is generated, to bring the rotor to a quick stop, when the DPDT switch is in the 'BRAKE' position. Since the rotor doesn't reverse, maybe the purpose of the 2 diodes is to 'chop off' the voltage wave and pass only the part of the wave that is 180 degrees out of phase, with the power wave. The resistor would then act as a load for the 'chopped' off portion?

FI%20P1080891.jpg


FI%20P1080893.jpg


FI%20P1080892.jpg
 
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torqueman2002

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
3/4 hp 8" Craftsman bench top grinder - $150 (Brownstown)

Detroit CL - not mine. I have bought 2-3 Blocks from the seller, he is a good guy to deal with, he just doesn't ship. It's CL, not eBay, after all.


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Local pick-up. "Sorry I do not ship items. I do not have a Paypal account. I do not meet up half way. No trades. Cash pick up only."


https://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/6139765439.html
 
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torqueman2002

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,139
Location
SE Michigan
Interesting
That relay 2CR14-224 X7A is very close to the one in my son's 397.19590 which is a 2CR15-205H3A. It even looks the same. We have been trying to find a replacement without success.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249539&page=17
post 664
My guess is the operating specs. for your son's (beautiful 1/2-HP m-397.19590 Block) relay (2CR15-205H3A) and the 1/3-HP BRAKE m-397.19410 relay (2CR14-224 X7A) are different.

Will it work? Maybe.

I would think as far as donor Blocks - you'll find more 1/2-HP m-397.19590 Blocks, than 1/3-HP BRAKE m-397.19410 Blocks.

Because these relays are not like automotive relays (voltage activated), they need to be matched to the application (current activated/de-activated). The Block relay is de-energized when the rotor assembly reaches about 75% speed. This is based upon the current through the field coils.

I'll keep an eye out for a donor for your son's Block.

:thumbup:
 
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Honest Bob

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2010
Messages
263
Location
Easton, PA
Picked up this bad boy at a flea market for $35. It took 2 years but I finally have one!

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