let's see your craftsman block grinders

[rickhigginshtbr]

Hey so, I was using this a few weeks ago and a bunch of smoke came out from the grinder body. Still works fine. ?! Any idea on what could have happened?

Check the wiring you did. I had the same thing happen with a band saw motor rewired with modern wire, got hot and melted. Shot a fireball across the floor too, which scared the **** out of me.

 

[cash68]

Yeah, I looked into that, my model doesn't have the centrifugal switch. Only the larger ones and later ones did. Idk why.

In any event, it's been working fine ever since. Not sure what the issue was.

 

[rickhigginshtbr]

Keep an eye on it, my band saw did the same thing, then two weeks later was the fireball

 

[ex_nihilo]

Does anyone know if the rotors for the 3/4 hp and 1 hp motors are interchangeable?

I'm looking for a 1hp rotor and I'd like to know if I can use either.

Thanks kindly

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[6PTsocket]

Yeah, I looked into that, my model doesn't have the centrifugal switch. Only the larger ones and later ones did. Idk why.

In any event, it's been working fine ever since. Not sure what the issue was.

The ones without a centrifugal switch connect/disconnect the start winding with a current relay. I prefer it as it is more reliable and and can be replaced by an off the shelf part. A CS has weights, springs and contacts that must be replaced with the exact same part and access can be a pain. A current relay is a simple little 3 terminal box. The coil is in series with the motor the third contact to the start winding is on the load side of the coil. On start, the motor pulls a lot of current, relay closes, connects start winding or start winding and capacitor. As motor approaches full speed, current drops, relay opens start circuitry disconnects. There are even solid state replacements. They will replace a bad CS as well. You just need the amps. info. on the motor plate. Sure is a better system.

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[whateg01]

The ones without a centrifugal switch connect/disconnect the start winding with a current relay. I prefer it as it is more reliable and and can be replaced by an off the shelf part. A CS has weights, springs and contacts that must be replaced with the exact same part and access can be a pain. A current relay is a simple little 3 terminal box. The coil is in series with the motor the third contact to the start winding is on the load side of the coil. On start, the motor pulls a lot of current, relay closes, connects start winding or start winding and capacitor. As motor approaches full speed, current drops, relay opens start circuitry disconnects. There are even solid state replacements. They will replace a bad CS as well. You just need the amps. info. on the motor plate. Sure is a better system.

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Never thought of replacing a CS with one, but that's a great idea for those times it's needed!

Dave

 

[twertsy]

Picked up a couple more today for $60

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[WWShop]

Picked this one up today. Not a block but wanted to share. Was on CL for $25 but i offered an extra $10 for the gentleman to hold it for. Extremely heavy!

 

[Cruzan80]

Let me be the first to say "You ****!". That is one I have been keeping an eye out for, never seen one near me. With guards, shields, and the center tray intact, that is amazing!

 

[exmaxima1]

Let me be the first to say "You ****!". That is one I have been keeping an eye out for, never seen one near me. With guards, shields, and the center tray intact, that is amazing!

+1

That was an an amazing score

 

[torqueman2002]

Picked this one up today. Not a block but wanted to share. Was on CL for $25 but i offered an extra $10 for the gentleman to hold it for. Extremely heavy!

All I have to say is, ....

 

[torqueman2002]

OK, now that I am over being jealous ...
Quiz time.

When is a Craftsman grinder with a model number 397.19xxx or 257.19xxxx not a Block?

Follow this link to find out, ......
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7805238&postcount=971

Thanks for playing. If you were correct, congratulations!

 

[WWShop]

Thanks guys! I was surprised to see it all intact myself. I have another one but it doesn't have the tray or eye shields. These grinders are built like a dang tank!

This one appears to have been used for woodworking, so I will definitely tear it down for a good cleaning.

 

[WWShop]

I did forget to mention that the bearings are fairly noisy. I replaced the bearings on a block once with assistance from a friend. I always struggle with doing bearings for some reason. I asked once before but don't recall the responses, but what is the best puller for working on these grinders? I'm guessing I'll get some different opinions.

 

[torqueman2002]

I did forget to mention that the bearings are fairly noisy. I replaced the bearings on a block once with assistance from a friend. I always struggle with doing bearings for some reason. I asked once before but don't recall the responses, but what is the best puller for working on these grinders? I'm guessing I'll get some different opinions.

You're correct, there are several ways to remove/install bearings.

The most important point to remember, is to apply pressure on the race that is holding the bearing - if it remains on the arbor shaft or is to be installed on the shaft, apply force on the inner race. Otherwise the roller balls and races can be damaged.

Here's a thread that shows 3 ways: "CM Block Grinder bearing replacement - 3 methods" --> https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5722705#post5722705

 

[ex_nihilo]

I used a bearing separator and a 2 arm gear puller. I had the smaller Craftsman puller and it wasn't long enough, so I got the bigger one. The smaller one only has 2 holes.

Whatever you do go with, you should use torquemans "fire and ice" method. Very easy!

I don't know how to link to a thread, hope this works

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=328228&highlight=Fire+ice+method

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[ex_nihilo]

You're correct, there are several ways to remove/install bearings. Here's a thread that shows 3 ways: "CM Block Grinder bearing replacement - 3 methods" --> https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5722705#post5722705

Torqueman, lightning fast responses too! [emoji16]

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[torqueman2002]

Torqueman, lightning fast responses too! [emoji16]

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Thanks, and your link works.

I've seen a number of bearing replacements that use correct sized sockets/pipes and a press - arbor/hydraulic.

Pullers and presses use even force that are gentle on the bearing assemblies. The key is to find the correct diameter and length to fit on the race and over the shaft - in the case of Block bearings.

 

[cash68]

I just used a socket and a small hammer to tap it out of the housings.

 

[kenc184]

Don't see too many grey pedestals around... let alone doubles.
Seems like they quickly went to the power bronze and then black.

Picked this one up today along with a crusty lathe.

Lafester, what did you end up paying for the lathe with stand if you don't mind telling?

 

[phule]

Finally after many a craigslist ad!!! My new to me grinder! Came with pedestal. Super smooth! Was amazed at how quiet it was. Purchase price was $40. Did I do good?

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[Outlawmws]

You didn't do good; YA ****!

 

[exmaxima1]

That's a Pre-Block, and it looks like a 1/4hp model without the wheel guard covers. Considering the broken eyeshield and all the rust, I'd say you did OK but not exactly a steal. It's the max I would have paid.

Congrats on joining the club!

 

[Outlawmws]

So you missed the stand? That alone was worth $40.

 

[Cruzan80]

I am with exmaxima1 on this one. Don feel bad, it is a fair price. Would have been a great price with the cm pedestal stand, the one it came with wouldn't add any value (to me)

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[LesserSon]

“Pre-block”, because of the color, texture?
“Without wheel guard covers”? Not sure how you’d see them in those two images.

 

[torqueman2002]

I am with exmaxima1 on this one. Don feel bad, it is a fair price. Would have been a great price with the cm pedestal stand, the one it came with wouldn't add any value (to me)....

x2

I have paid more and less.

This 0.25-HP m-115.19500 was $25 with the stand, but missing the eye shields and the RH tool rest.

This 0.25-HP m-115.19500 was $40 without the stand, but with the eye shields and the tool rests

The only sure way to ID a CM Block vs. pre-Block is the model number, but I'd wager the OP's is a pre-Block. I've driven 4+ hours based on worse pictures.

 

[phule]

When I get down to the shop I'll look into it a little further. You are correct it is a 1/4 hp unit. Come to think of it I'm not even sure if it had the guards or not..lol

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[exmaxima1]

x2

The only sure way to ID a CM Block vs. pre-Block is the model number, but I'd wager the OP's is a pre-Block. I've driven 4+ hours based on worse pictures.

I believe we have a difference of opinion on what constitutes a Pre-Block. I consider any cast iron version as "pre". And I can quickly spot a power switch on the lower ledge of the center panel as "Pre". I appreciate there is some issue with manufacturer code, but I think it just muddies the water. If it's cast iron, it's Pre-Block in my book.

 

[exmaxima1]

“Pre-block”, because of the color, texture?
“Without wheel guard covers”? Not sure how you’d see them in those two images.

1/4 hp Pre-Blocks rarely are seen with end covers, and AFAIK they rarely even had drilled holes to install covers. So I assumed you had no end covers.

 

[torqueman2002]

I believe we have a difference of opinion on what constitutes a Pre-Block. I consider any cast iron version as "pre". And I can quickly spot a power switch on the lower ledge of the center panel as "Pre". I appreciate there is some issue with manufacturer code, but I think it just muddies the water. If it's cast iron, it's Pre-Block in my book.

Fair enough. We can agree to dis-agree.

I take my lead from another site that has had to re-start after loosing all their data. However, in the following link is the definition I use. Link --> https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4000526&postcount=1

 

[WWShop]

Made this switch to my 1hp this morning. Definitely adds a new level of awesome to the grinder.

 

[jerryd67]

Was lucky enough to bring this beauty home from an auction today for $55.

Label is not in the best of shape, but good enough I can make out the 3/4 hp and model 397-19451.

 

[WWShop]

Was lucky enough to bring this beauty home from an auction today for $55.

Label is not in the best of shape, but good enough I can make out the 3/4 hp and model 397-19451.

Awesome score, Jerry. Stand too! Congrats!

 

[torqueman2002]

Was lucky enough to bring this beauty home from an auction today for $55.

Label is not in the best of shape, but good enough I can make out the 3/4 hp and model 397-19451.

 

[jerryd67]

Doc, did I see in an older thread that you had a 397-19451 as well? If you still have it, I might see if you can take a picture of the label for me. Mine is almost illegible, and I need to see if I can get Mattblast to make me a new one.

 

[torqueman2002]

Doc, did I see in an older thread that you had a 397-19451 as well? If you still have it, I might see if you can take a picture of the label for me. Mine is almost illegible, and I need to see if I can get Mattblast to make me a new one.

PM sent.

 

[cajunfirehawk]

"Tie Fighter 1hp Block" on ebay, someone PLEASE buy this so I don't!
See eBay item number: 113713212759
And no its not mine...Yet.
I just don't need another but these are rare, I own 2 as shown in this pic but this is only the 3rd one I have even seen since getting the dreaded block-itis...

 

[Mr. Wonderful]

"Tie Fighter 1hp Block" on ebay, someone PLEASE buy this so I don't!
See eBay item number: 113713212759
And no its not mine...Yet.
I just don't need another but these are rare, I own 2 as shown in this pic but this is only the 3rd one I have even seen since getting the dreaded block-itis...

That block is super cool, I dont use ebay much but $114 shipping???? I could probably overnight fedex it for less than that ?

 

[ex_nihilo]

"Tie Fighter 1hp Block" on ebay, someone PLEASE buy this so I don't!
See eBay item number: 113713212759
And no its not mine...Yet.
I just don't need another but these are rare, I own 2 as shown in this pic but this is only the 3rd one I have even seen since getting the dreaded block-itis...[emoji38]_hitti

That pic blows me away. Some block **** right there!

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