let's see your craftsman block grinders

[Reversepolarity]

That camshaft is awesome!!! Please post pics when you are done. I am trying to get ideas for a stand for my baldor 8100w.

Here is the shaft ready for the top plate and paint. The cam shaft will stay as is. Just the base and top plate will get painted.
The base is an old bull gear I took off an old conveyor.





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[drivesitfar]

RP: awesome looking grinder stand. are you planning on putting one of your 1hp blocks on top of that stand? i'm guessing you'll have a wire wheel and a grinding stone on the 1hp?

LODESTAR: sounds like you've got a pair of great old blocks and my favorite ones too. putting a few different wheels on them and setting them up in your shop if you have the space should be nice.

 

[WWShop]

They are very prone to snapping off if bent too far.

There is an old thread, but the pics were 'lost' due to the PhotoBucket debacle.

However, you may find the supporting text helpful.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329103

I'm thinking of just breaking the glass out and try to replace with plexiglass. Not sure if I can find something that is durable, and be able to bend in under those tabs.

 

[WWShop]

Or maybe I'll just try attaching new glass with the E6000 adhesive that was suggested in the post, Torque. Thanks for the link.

 

[exmaxima1]

Or maybe I'll just try attaching new glass with the E6000 adhesive that was suggested in the post, Torque. Thanks for the link.

E6000 is essentially the same as "Shoe Goo", and both are made by Eclectic Products. Works great for many applications.

BTW, Lexan (polycarbonate) is a better material for eyeshields than Plexiglas (acrylic). Won't shatter, but it scratches a tad easier.

 

[Reversepolarity]

RP: awesome looking grinder stand. are you planning on putting one of your 1hp blocks on top of that stand? i'm guessing you'll have a wire wheel and a grinding stone on the 1hp?



LODESTAR: sounds like you've got a pair of great old blocks and my favorite ones too. putting a few different wheels on them and setting them up in your shop if you have the space should be nice.

Ended up setting the Baldor on it.








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[cajunfirehawk]

Well done!

 

[WWShop]

E6000 is essentially the same as "Shoe Goo", and both are made by Eclectic Products. Works great for many applications.

BTW, Lexan (polycarbonate) is a better material for eyeshields than Plexiglas (acrylic). Won't shatter, but it scratches a tad easier.

Thanks. I took your advise and just ordered some. What is the best way to cut Lexan?

 

[exmaxima1]

Thanks. I took your advise and just ordered some. What is the best way to cut Lexan?

It cuts easily with fine tooth saws (table/miter/bandsaw/hacksaw). I sometimes sandwich it between 2 boards if I'm worried that my table saw blade is too coarse (same way with aluminum sheets). Don't worry about the edges as you won't see them once glued into the frames.

 

[lodestar]

59, pre block I guess. Similar to the 66 in appearance, but is cast. Wire brushed the body and left it raw. Replaced 2 wire cord to 3 wire. Tool rest was broken off on left side so just made a clean cut. Works good for the wire wheel. I like how they turned out so I guess I'll keep both. Hope I don't run into another one. Don't have room for more.

 

[LesserSon]

Here’s a 1/2hp on a non-C’man stand. Spotted it along PA87 in Barbours this morning. Pretty rough-looking, but maybe not beyond hope. Myself, I didn’t think very long before leaving it there.

 

[Outlawmws]

LS that's odd, that 1/2 HP is sitting on top of a 1 HP base.cooling reservoir.

 

[exmaxima1]

LS that's odd, that 1/2 HP is sitting on top of a 1 HP base.cooling reservoir.

That was the standard base on the 1/2hp Pre-Block. It's cast iron as well. The 1hp Blocks usually have a die-cast alum base. The left side arbor sure looks bent in the pic, but maybe it's just the camera lens...

 

[torqueman2002]

'Killer' price on 8 new 6 inch Dayton grinder stones; or, when is a bargain not a bargain.

Follow this link to my post in the Block resource thread. --> https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8196587#post8196587

 

[Old Radar]

After restoring and enjoying my 1959 Craftsman 1/2hp Pre-Block Grinder for the last several months, this weekend I picked up this really nice Crown Logo Craftsman Commercial 1/2hp Block Grinder for $25. Is this a round-top or mailbox? Or, are those synonymous?

I don’t believe that I bought it from the original owner due to the numbers that are hand-etched on each of the major parts of the shell, but the estate I bought it from had had it for many years. As you can see from the photos, there are hardly any signs of usage or wear on the machine. The bottom plate is stamped Oct 16 1972, so it’s “only” 47 years old. Also indicative of light use is that the 40 grit stone on the grinder has a Crown Logo as do the virtually unused 60 & 100 grit stones and the box of buffing compounds that came with it. All the stones pass the ring test. The grinder runs very smoothly and spins down in 35 seconds.

Honestly, I don’t think I need to do anything to it except buy some new rubber feet and eight stainless steel hex-head non-slotted screws for the wheel covers. I don’t believe the current ones are original because the flair around the slotted heads are too wide to slip through the keyhole slots on the covers and their threads are very worn where they engage the female threads in the main body of the covers. You may be able to see one of the SS screws I bought for my Pre-Block in the wire wheel pic closest to the camera.

I do miss the fact that the eye shields are not glass like my Pre-Block, but other than that, I'm really happy.

 

[IMCA38]

I scored this late model 257.192190 1hp grinder and 351.19210 stand at an auction today. I managed to get it for $55.
Both eye shields are there and in good shape, both tool rests are there, as is the plastic lamp shade. Also had the original manual. The stand has a large quench tray, so there wasn’t a quench tray on the grinder. After I bought it, I stepped out of the building and there was a large scrap pile on the ground. I looked at the pile and right on top was the quench tray for the grinder in good condition!
It appears all it will need is a good cleaning, and perhaps new or different stones/wheels.
I did wipe it down a little, and it looks like it will clean up nicely.

 

[cajunfirehawk]

I scored this late model 257.192190 1hp grinder and 351.19210 stand at an auction today. I managed to get it for $55.
It appears all it will need is a good cleaning, and perhaps new or different stones/wheels.
I did wipe it down a little, and it looks like it will clean up nicely.

Nice, we don't see those often..."tie fighters"... Those stands are tanks too

 

[exmaxima1]

Honestly, I don’t think I need to do anything to it except buy some new rubber feet and eight stainless steel hex-head non-slotted screws for the wheel covers. I don’t believe the current ones are original because the flair around the slotted heads are too wide to slip through the keyhole slots on the covers and their threads are very worn where they engage the female threads in the main body of the covers. You may be able to see one of the SS screws I bought for my Pre-Block in the wire wheel pic closest to the camera.

Have you considered Socket Head screws? I like them better than Hex Head for the same clearance issue you note. Also, plated steel is less likely to seize than stainless in those alloy guards if you leave them in a long time.

 

[Old Radar]

Have you considered Socket Head screws? I like them better than Hex Head for the same clearance issue you note. Also, plated steel is less likely to seize than stainless in those alloy guards if you leave them in a long time.

I hadn't considered socket heads. I just looked around for the closest match to the original screws. The SS ones I found were it--even though they don't have a slot. It never occurred to me to think about the interaction of the two metals. Thanks for the tip--but how likely is that to happen and is there a way to mitigate the likelihood?

 

[Old Radar]

Have you considered Socket Head screws? I like them better than Hex Head for the same clearance issue you note. Also, plated steel is less likely to seize than stainless in those alloy guards if you leave them in a long time.

At my company, we install SS feeder tubes coupled to a CS header, and antisieze is mandated. Galling occurs within days without it.
We have a lot of surface area for antisieze to stick to, which wouldn't be the case with screws, the aesthetic considerations aside.

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Okay, having just done a very quick study on galling, my layman's take-away is that it is more likely in metals of the same/similar hardness and is contingent upon pressure and heat--in the case of threads, how tight you torque the screws down and the friction caused from meshing the threads together (quickly).

Here's my analysis of using stainless steel screws in the block grinder's cast aluminum wheel guards--let me know if I'm wrong-minded about this:

1. The two metals (cast AL & SS) do not have similar hardnesses. Hardened AL has a Brinell hardness of 75-80. Stainless steel varies but the lowest I saw has a Brinell hardness of 123.

2. I no longer let my pet gorilla tighten screws for me, so I can usually snug them down and unscrew the things with minimal effort.

3. I only use a 1/4" manual ratchet to fasten the screws so I'm not creating a lot of heat during the process. The guards can get warm after hours of grinding but not hot.

So, with a dissimilar hardness, no over torquing and no heat, is there really anything to worry about?

Poke holes in my analysis at will--and Thanks!

 

[Outlawmws]

DO use and appropriate anti-seize, as what is a bigger issue is dissimilar metal corrosion.

 

[exmaxima1]

Okay, having just done a very quick study on galling, my layman's take-away is that it is more likely in metals of the same/similar hardness and is contingent upon pressure and heat--in the case of threads, how tight you torque the screws down and the friction caused from meshing the threads together (quickly).

Nothing to do with hardness, just galvanic action. Stainless steel simply reacts with aluminum, just as steel reacts with magnesium (it's why BMW uses aluminum bolts in their magnesium engine castings). I admit I use SS alot in aluminum, but it's mostly anodized aluminum so it has a dielectric coating. Simply use an anti-seize grease like Outlaw suggested and you will not have an issue.

 

[Old Radar]

I learn **** every day here on GJ. Thanks guys!

 

[javie]

Hello, I own a 397.xxxxxx 1/2-hp CM blockhead and love it. I saw a 3/4-hp version but with a 257.191500 model number. After a bit of research it looks like the 257's are not the "industrial rated" versions and are likely a bit different. Can somebody enlighten me further on what the differences are? This one is for sale at $115 with a brand new Jet grinder stand but it is a hike from the house and I'm on the fence about making the trip, although I could use the higher hp model. Thoughts?

 

[txlonghorn1989]

You guys can appreciate these. I picked them up at an estate sale recently. Craftsman crown 6" grinder wheels and a wire wheel. Grits are 36, 100 & 220. None appear to have ever been used. I haven't given them the ring test yet but they'll come in handy on my 397.19591 (1/2 HP Craftsman Commercial). It's posted somewhere on this thread. I picked that up last year IIRC.

 

[406Rich]

There's an auction near me coming up, they have a 3/4 horse crown top craftsman with 8 inch wheels and shields, light, put my bid in on it....now the waiting game....

 

[lafester]

There's an auction near me coming up, they have a 3/4 horse crown top craftsman with 8 inch wheels and shields, light, put my bid in on it....now the waiting game....

If it's a round top those are worth some cash. Can we get a pic?

 

[exmaxima1]

There's an auction near me coming up, they have a 3/4 horse crown top craftsman with 8 inch wheels and shields, light, put my bid in on it....now the waiting game....

Does it also have the Deluxe Base with the outboard tool rests?

 

[LesserSon]

Old Radar,
I don’t mean to dispute anyone else’s suggestions - I lack the experience. I agree anti-seize might do some good.
I suppose your main concern is to keep the guards remove-able? I think your original analysis is correct - similarly hard materials applied with force will gall, and stainless and aluminum are not of similar hardness. But what happens when a hard material (steel) is screwed into a softer material (aluminum)? Technically, there won’t be galling, because the steel will simply deform the aluminum. The screws will be fine, but repeated removal and reinstallation of the guards will inevitably strip the soft female threads. Still, like you say, you can reduce stripping by avoiding over-tightening.
You may have seen plain steel swell with rust, and want to avoid the screws seizing from that cause. Stainless seems like an answer, but it is very far away from aluminum on a galvanic series chart, so in some environments it’s going to rob electrons from the aluminum to keep its own good looks. Again, the screws will be fine, but the aluminum will weaken. As has been stated, a small amount of stainless in a larger mass of aluminum is not really a big problem.
But here’s my thing: are you really trying to preserve your replacement screws, or the aluminum casting? Probably the aluminum, since they’re not making any more of them, and they are making new screws. A lot of new screws.
For aluminum castings, I would think zinc-plated steel is a better all-around choice than stainless. For one thing, it’s cheaper and will be available in more patterns. And I think that’s what the original screws would have been. You could replace all the zinc-plated screws every time you swap wheels, and probably spend less on them than one set of stainless. The zinc will be softer than bare steel or stainless steel. The zinc will protect the steel from oxidation. And the zinc and plain steel under it are a lot closer to aluminum on the galvanic series than stainless is, so any electron-stealing is going to be a lot slower.
Maybe cadmium-plated steel screws would be an even better choice. I don’t know. You don’t see them in bulk at Lowes or Home Depot.

 

[Old Radar]

LS--

In truth, I didn't analyze the stainless steel/cast iron conundrum to any great depth when I made my purchase for my Pre-Block. I simply wanted fasteners for the guards that looked more or less like the original screws. The nut & bolt specialty store here in San Antonio came the closest--unadorned hex heads, although without a slot. They just happened to be stainless steel. You are correct when you say repeated removal and re-installation of the guards will inevitably strip the soft female threads, but at the time it did not occur to me that my choice might be detrimental to the longevity of my guards. This is doubly true of the cast aluminum guards of my new Block.

As I said, I learn **** everyday on GJ. Sadly, one of the things I need to keep relearning is the KISS principle and not to be blinded by the shiny upgrades when the designers had more time and experience than me to properly think through the consequences of their materials choices. I'll be keeping an eye out for suitable softer-metal screws.

Thanks one and all for your input and insights.

 

[exmaxima1]

Old Radar,
......You may have seen plain steel swell with rust, and want to avoid the screws seizing from that cause. Stainless seems like an answer, but it is very far away from aluminum on a galvanic series chart, so in some environments it’s going to rob electrons from the aluminum to keep its own good looks. Again, the screws will be fine, but the aluminum will weaken. As has been stated, a small amount of stainless in a larger mass of aluminum is not really a big problem.

Here's a galvanic list:

Magnesium
Magnesium Alloys
Zinc
Beryllium
Aluminum Alloys
Cadmium
Mild and Carbon Steel, Cast Iron
Chromium Steel (With Less Than Or Equal To 6% Chromium)
Active Stainless Steels (302, 310, 316, 410, 430)
Aluminum Bronze
Lead-Tin Solder
Tin
Active Nickel
Active Inconel
Brass
Bronze
Copper
Manganese Bronze
Silicon Bronze
Copper-Nickel Alloys
Lead
Monel
Silver Solder
Passive Nickel
Passive Inconel
Passive Stainless Steel (302, 310, 316, 410, 430)
Silver
Titanium
Zirconium
Gold
Platinum

Clearly you can see that you won't want to use platinum hardware on those aluminum castings.

 

[Old Radar]

Obviously gold would be better than platinum--and cheaper, too!

 

[drivesitfar]

ALL: great discussion as per usual on this thread!!

 

[harley jim]

I am happy to post today as I get to join the block club. I know its ugly but I got it on letgo for five dollars. Yes it runs and as you can see will need a lot of TLC to make a comeback. I don't know anything about it and would appreciate any input you gentlemen may have. Thank you, Jim

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[exmaxima1]

I am happy to post today as I get to join the block club. I know its ugly but I got it on letgo for five dollars. Yes it runs and as you can see will need a lot of TLC to make a comeback. I don't know anything about it and would appreciate any input you gentlemen may have.

I'm pretty sure it should like mine when you get all finished.

 

[lafester]

The 3/4 HP round tops are definitely worth saving. Do those have 8 inch wheels?

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[McBrownie]

I am happy to post today as I get to join the block club. I know its ugly but I got it on letgo for five dollars. Yes it runs and as you can see will need a lot of TLC to make a comeback. I don't know anything about it and would appreciate any input you gentlemen may have. Thank you, Jim

That one's been rode hard. BUT, sure looks like a 3/4hp commercial cap start probably from the late '60s. I have one too and really like it. BUT, yours is missing a few things that are hard to come by - both tool rests, both eye shields, and the lamp. That's not the original switch either, but the originals had a fairly common metal toggle switch that is easy to come by.

It really depends what you plan on doing with it. At $5, you have already bought the cheapest part. Paint will cost more than that. At a minimum, it probably needs a new set of bearings. 6203 sealed work well. That's $20.

For the rest, you can decide how far you want to go. There are plenty of examples in this thread of ones as rough looking as yours that ended up looking like the one in Ex's reply.

Welcome the club!

 

[harley jim]

Thanks Exmaxmia 1, Lafister, and McBrownie
I saw it several months ago on letgo and we could not get together and I forgot about it. It popped up again last night so I tried again and we got together today. It has 8" wheels so I think it is a 3/4 hp. It dose not like to start, had to spin the wheel to get it going but it ran fine and took quite a while to spin down. I'm hoping there is a fix for the start problem. If that can be fixed I am going to restore it to a point and am thinking about giving it to a young man that I met this year that is learning how to weld at my shop. He is a good guy and likes to fabricate so we need to build his tool collection. And I'm hoping to learn a little about grinders.
I have a couple of grinders that I mounted to a swivel base so they can be rotated to access the wheel you need they are not block grinders yet.
Ex that is a beautiful grinder thanks for the pic.

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[tym]

I am happy to post today as I get to join the block club. I know its ugly but I got it on letgo for five dollars. Yes it runs and as you can see will need a lot of TLC to make a comeback. I don't know anything about it and would appreciate any input you gentlemen may have. Thank you, Jim

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I'm amazed that somehow the two spark arrestors are still intact!

 

[harley jim]

Yes, what is there is really in ok shape. I'll take it apart and sand blast some of it. I think I can press new cover panels for the spark arrestor and turn some new shafts for the tool rests. The rest will depend on ?

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