Let's Share Non-Obvious Tool Tricks

[oldschoolcraft]

I was hanging out with a woodworker friend of mine a few years ago, and the topic of tape measures came up, and I commented that I noticed tape measures have a wobble on the metal lip that is on the end of the measuring tape that sticks out of the tape measure body. And I asked him about the concern that the wobble would introduce an error into the measurement.

I've only ever had to use tape measures to measure rough estimates. How many feet is the backyard to run sprinkler pipe. Hanging the TV at a proper height. Nothing that + or - a full inch would really matter. But in woodworking, obviously you need to get to down to 1/16" or smaller, and that little wobble at the end clip might mess it up. And I'm not a stupid person, and I've used tools for various purposes for over 20 years at this point in my adult life. But never did any woodworking.

He explained that the wobble is intentional and precise, to be the dimension of the end metal clip itself, because the end metal clip has thickness to it. The 6' micro tape measure I have here has a 0.04" thick metal lip on the end.

The purpose of the wobble is that if you are going to hook the lip over the top of something and pull traction on the tape measure, you want that lip to wobble outward, so that the measurement tape gains an extra 0.04" (in this case) to account for the thickness of the lip itself. And if you are pushing the tape measure end into something, you want that lip to wobble inwards, so that it doesnt inappropriately add its 0.04" width to the measurement.

I'm probably the only idiot here who didn't know that, but the point of this thread is for people to share other similar tricks that might be non-obvious when it comes to the tools we use. And maybe as an informal poll mechanism, if someone posts a trick you learned something from, "like" that post and we can see which tricks were the least well known to people here.

 

[Stubby1743]

I assumed that everybody that used a tape measure knew that.

 

[darkzero]

Search online for an article or YT, you'll be amazed at how many tricks & features there are for the common tape measure.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

I assumed that everybody that used a tape measure knew that.

I didn't! Tape measures are so common, they come in every $20 chinesium 6-piece starter tool kit. I bet most of the tape measure owning public has no idea about this end wobble. Though I bet 99% of Garage Journal members know it, we're not representative of the general public.

I think with calipers, I did immediately learn there was several ways to use it to measure something by the person who first showed me a caliper in person, who was a hobbyist machinist. My first pair was an old of his that he gifted me. I'm sure there's a lot of people who bought calipers off Amazon and thought that the only way to use them was to squeeze the tips around something and would have their mind blown.

 

[darkzero]

Speaking of calipers, I've owned digital Mitus for years before I became a hobby macheenist. I'll never consider myself a real machinist so I spell it that way.

Most people know the tail end has a rod that can be used as a depth gauge. But many people don't know that the front end can be used as a depth gauge also. It's wide so obviously can't be used for measuring hole depth but for a lip it can be easier due to the larger surface area (but can also more prone to error depending on surface irregularities).

 

[OccupantRJ]

When the wide head end of the caliper is used it is called a step measurement. The four normal uses are inside, outside, depth, and step. The step measure is very useful for setting a distance from an edge to scribe a mark. Blueing the surface or blacking with a felt tip marker beforehand, then using an Exacto knife to scribe with gives a very good line less affected by the thickness of the scribe. When I see a video where the tips of the caliper are used as a marking gage from an edge to scribe a line, I immediately dismiss that person as an ignorant hack who should not be handling anything more precise than a sledge hammer.

 

[MushCreek]

One handy trick with digital calipers is measuring hole spacing. Measure the inside of a hole, and zero the calipers. Then measure from inside of one hole to another (they have to be the same size) to get the hole spacing.

 

[no704]

Used to work at a UL certified lab. Among the many silly things we had to have calibration certified yearly were two Lufkin tape measures. Not sure what that cost, but had to be more than the cost of them. Had to have two so we had one when the other was at the calibration “lab”.

 

[bobg03]

My brother is an accomplished woodworker and his go to measuring device is a folding ruler with the brass slide whenever he is building something, it's always on him. I don't think he uses a tape measure unless he's laying out a deck or something similar.

 

[darkzero]

When the wide head end of the caliper is used it is called a step measurement.

That's a better word I was looking for. Was late when I posted & was brain dead. Lip came to mind, I knew wasn't a good description but was too tired to think. Lol

 

[cgrutt]

Similar to the 1/16 adjustment for push/pull measurements the case of tape measure is usually marked with its width so it can be added for measurements in between two points, for example two walls. Push tape into wall one and run body flat against wall two read measurement on tape and add the case width for overall measurement.

But did you know a tape measure can tell you how old you are (unless you're too old LOL). Pull tape to current year, 2024 would be 124" fold tape in half and place tab at 124. Now read back to the year you were born, say 2005 the year my son was born (105" on tape measure). Now read the marking folded against the 105, in this case 19", so he will be 19 in 2024. Works to early 1960s if you were born before that I guess they figure you're too old to be using a tape measure LOL...

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

To make equal divisions measure diagonally with the tape at a measurement that divides easily by the number of divisions.
Place a nail in the claw of a hammer with the head of the nail against the handle (or base of the head of the hammer). You can start the nail with a swing of the hammer (leaving one hand free).

 

[d.mcfarland]

To make equal divisions measure diagonally with the tape at a measurement that divides easily by the number of divisions.
Place a nail in the claw of a hammer with the head of the nail against the handle (or base of the head of the hammer). You can start the nail with a swing of the hammer (leaving one hand free).

Almost every modern framing hammer has a magnetic nail starter built into the normal pounding end.

 

[Wamsutta]

I will often times rest the screwdriver shank on my thumb as I'm lining the screwdriver up with the screw head; especially when going in horizontal.

 

[FigN⋅m]

Whenever I don't have a Philips head screwdriver, I just use two slotted screwdrivers.

 

[dutchgray]

When the wide head end of the caliper is used it is called a step measurement. The four normal uses are inside, outside, depth, and step. The step measure is very useful for setting a distance from an edge to scribe a mark. Blueing the surface or blacking with a felt tip marker beforehand, then using an Exacto knife to scribe with gives a very good line less affected by the thickness of the scribe. When I see a video where the tips of the caliper are used as a marking gage from an edge to scribe a line, I immediately dismiss that person as an ignorant hack who should not be handling anything more precise than a sledge hammer.

I do have a pair of Mitutoyo 6" calipers I use for scribing lines, someone else dropped them and broke the tip off one of the jaws so they were already ruined as a measuring instrument.

 

[Junkdrawer Dog]

Used to work at a UL certified lab. Among the many silly things we had to have calibration certified yearly were two Lufkin tape measures. Not sure what that cost, but had to be more than the cost of them. Had to have two so we had one when the other was at the calibration “lab”.

Been there, done that. At my last job I had to measure steel billets ranging from 17 feet to 20 feet long. The tolerance on length was +/- 2 inches. Every 3 months I had to send my company supplied and serialized FAT MAX tape measure to the lab to be "calibrated".

 

[Kasal]

A few years ago a fellow electrician taught me the "proper" way to use scissors. I've done it like that since then.

It involves resting one part on the palm of your hand, this way you use more force and don't hurt your fingers.

 

[garilla]

If you cannot get the thread to start properly especially on fine threads, rotate the item in the opposite way it threads on and when you feel it click then it should start on properly, works on all threads , try it

 

[uart]

Here's another useful tape measure tip, to find your favorite tool.


1. Measure the length of anything close at hand to the nearest cm (or to the nearest inch if you prefer).
2. Multiply this number of cm (or inches) by 9 to get a new number.
3. Add up all the digits of the number in step 2 to get another new number.
4. If necessary, repeat step 3 (adding all the digits from the previous step) until you get a single digit number.
5. Go through the alphabet, where "a" is 1, "b" is 2 and so on, until you get to the letter corresponding to your final number.
6. Think of your favorite tool that starts with that letter.

Spoiler

I bet you chose Impact Driver or Impact Wrench

 

[guitarbutt]

If you don't have a square and need a line on a board: measure and mark two spots or more, then turn the tape measure over (blade concave facing up), line the marks up, and draw a line connecting them

 

[DGersic]

If you cannot get the thread to start properly especially on fine threads, rotate the item in the opposite way it threads on and when you feel it click then it should start on properly, works on all threads , try it

I do this on all threads. Especially so if I‘m putting a screw back in to a hole in wood.

 

[woody 73]

When you hook up with that hot date be sure and use a good condom, remember boys and girls that can save you from getting those vicious nasty diseases. No charge for that tool trick!

 

[KSJeff]

I didn't know that dimensional lumber (except for marked wall studs) were all cut long. I expected a 12' stick of treated 2x4 to be 12' long. They varied from 12'1/2 to 12'2". I was going crazy trying to square a shed base and finally measure the wood. Had no idea.

 

[bonneyman]

Got a partially stripped phillips head screw? Dip your driver into some valve lapping compound. Adds enough grip to get out a surprising number of those screws.

 

[seber]

I didn't know that dimensional lumber (except for marked wall studs) were all cut long. I expected a 12' stick of treated 2x4 to be 12' long. They varied from 12'1/2 to 12'2". I was going crazy trying to square a shed base and finally measure the wood. Had no idea.

I don't know where you get your lumber but I've never had that happen. That would really get bad if you were buying stud length lumber.

 

[txvwnut]

Most people know the tail end has a rod that can be used as a depth gauge. But many people don't know that the front end can be used as a depth gauge also. It's wide so obviously can't be used for measuring hole depth but for a lip it can be easier due to the larger surface area (but can also more prone to error depending on surface irregularities).

This only works on calipers that have both jaws that sit flush to the end. I have a set of Helios calipers that the sliding jaw is radiused and does not sit flush with the end of the static jaw.

 

[Beerhippie]

My brother is an accomplished woodworker and his go to measuring device is a folding ruler with the brass slide whenever he is building something, it's always on him. I don't think he uses a tape measure unless he's laying out a deck or something similar.

A folder with slide (extension rule, per Starrett) has been my number-one tool for many carpentry jobs for decades. I learned to use it when I was doing a lot of stain-grade trim work. I don't measure with it so much as transfer with it.

 

[dscheidt]

I don't know where you get your lumber but I've never had that happen. That would really get bad if you were buying stud length lumber.

lumber sold as dimensional length (8', 12', etc) has a length tolerance of -0/+3 inches, and anything longer than 8' is commonly + 1 or 2". Stuff sold as precision trimmed (like studs cut to length to allow for the plates) have tighter tolerances (it's something like +/- 1/16 on 25% of a bunk, with the rest being +/-0), because the reason it's used is to save the time of cutting it to length.

 

[bonneyman]

Don't forget "girly" stuff. Alot of products made for the ladies serve purposes in the shop.

Emory boards - for sanding electrical contacts and sanding small areas
Nail polish - for securing screws that seem to vibrate loose
Nail polish remover - contains acetone but is thick so stays put
Seamstress seam ripper - good for stripping insulation off of small wire bundles like stat wire
Seamstress button puller - great for reaching into tight spots and grabbing wires, like stat wire buried in the wall
Blackhead remover - used for reassembling ratchet springs
Cuticle shaper - for scraping small parts
Wood manicure sticks - for soft plastic cleaning
Tweezers with built-in magnifying glass - perfect for holding and placing tiny screws.

Pampered Chef makes nice cleaning brushes and scrappers, and I've used Rubbermaid snap-lid containers for years.

 

[Beerhippie]

Don't forget "girly" stuff. Alot of products made for the ladies serve purposes in the shop.

Emory boards - for sanding electrical contacts and sanding small areas
Nail polish - for securing screws that seem to vibrate loose
Nail polish remover - contains acetone but is thick so stays put
Seamstress seam ripper - good for stripping insulation off of small wire bundles like stat wire
Blackhead remover - used for reassembling ratchet springs
Cuticle shaper - for scraping small parts

I'll add more once I go out to my shop and check my tiny tools bin.

I'll add to that theme:

Diamond Deb fingernail file: First affordable diamond file I ever bought. Very thin for easy access to things you probably shouldn't be filing on. Makes a great hook file, too.

Sally Hansen Hard As Nails Clear Nail Hardener: Best varnish ever for insulation repair, etc. Pretty good glue for fixing runs in fabric car seat covers and such. Great head cement for fly tying. Doesn't turn yellow in sunlight. And it's still sold!

 

[bonneyman]

My only concern with a diamond tool would be to wear gloves and discard them right after use. I can't imagine any residual diamond dust getting in my eye or something.

 

[Beerhippie]

My only concern with a diamond tool would be to wear gloves and discard them right after use. I can't imagine any residual diamond dust getting in my eye or something.

I've been using diamond sharpening stones for several decades--and the Diamond Deb for longer--and have never encountered that problem.

 

[Beerhippie]

I've been using diamond sharpening stones for several decades--and the Diamond Deb for longer--and have never encountered that problem.

I just finished using a secession of 8 pair of diamond stones to sharpen this:



No diamond dust problems.

 

[FigN⋅m]

I just finished using a secession of 8 pair of diamond stones to sharpen this:



No diamond dust problems.

I have a similar old ESEE 4 with same scales. EXCELLENT knife!! Good taste

 

[Beerhippie]

I have a similar old ESEE 4 with same scales. EXCELLENT knife!! Good taste

It was for a friend, in exchange for this:



I thought it would be an easy job, as it still had the Ontario factory bevels and no blade damage. Nope. The factory bevels were what I put on a shovel--over 30 degrees per side. I re-profiled it to 23 DPS and honed to 2,200 grit, then finished on a bench strop. He got his money's worth out of that Mechanic's Pal!

 

[Beerhippie]

Which I guess is a non-obvious tool trick: Trading skills for cool tools you want!

 

[Captain Spaulding]

Used to work at a UL certified lab. Among the many silly things we had to have calibration certified yearly were two Lufkin tape measures. Not sure what that cost, but had to be more than the cost of them. Had to have two so we had one when the other was at the calibration “lab”.

I had a 6” machinist’s rule that I had to have “calibrated”. It was used with a measuring microscope in an environment where we couldn’t put a moving measurement device or control the exact distance to the item being measured. Drove me crazy I had to send it in every 6 months for them to attach a sticker with the same error values every time.

 

[Beerhippie]

I had a 6” machinist’s rule that I had to have “calibrated”. It was used with a measuring microscope in an environment where we couldn’t put a moving measurement device or control the exact distance to the item being measured. Drove me crazy I had to send it in every 6 months for them to attach a sticker with the same error values every time.

Wait a minute--don't machinist's rules have an adjustment screw for calibration?

 

[MushCreek]

I bought several cheap flexible 6" scales and cut them into shorter pieces. Handy for measuring in tight spaces where a 6" scale won't fit. You can clamp them in an Xacto knife handle for more reach. Starrett makes a set, but $$$.

Starrett S423Z | 1/4" - 1" Tempered Steel Rule 1/32", 1/64" Graduation

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