Let's talk about diagnostic tools

[richfinn]

Yes that one

It had a EGR circuit code not a flow code, TSB applied, no other scan tool showed that MAF code, nor have I seen it , on other Connect ,plus this vehicle does fall under obd2 compliance so it should have the US protocols, but you may be right IDK. But this is just on example of bad codes in generic OBD2 I have seen, I cannot tell you how many times I have seen phantom codes on OBD2 generic, that are not there on the enhanced side. FYI I tried the generic side of IDS, Modis, OTC and Autel code reader on none showed that code, also I had several other times were that app flagged false codes I just do not remember the others off hand

I think EOBD and OBD11 are slightly different, I know they export these vans from Europe with rear seats and windows and then Ford pay someone to convert to cargo vans, I suspect they might not fully comply to OBD11.

Do you have an engine code??

Almost no one in Europe will run a gasoline version, they will 99% be Diesel

 

[signcrafter]

Yeo Will post up some pics Monday, FYI these rigs test the circuit not the relay itself, I used know good relays, pigtails off harness repair kits, and pins cut off other relays.

Much appreciated. These are exactly what I have been thinking about doing and think I even started a thread on here about building some.

I have a lot of home made pigtails and test lights. I seem to go through back proves like crazy though, so they are like gold in my tool box haha. And thanks for reminding me about the vacuum pump. I constantly need one for some egr tests but never remember to get one. Let's just hope I can remember this time


Sent from my iPhone

How about some pictures of these? Where do you use these pigtails?

 

[MLB0611]

I think EOBD and OBD11 are slightly different, I know they export these vans from Europe with rear seats and windows and then Ford pay someone to convert to cargo vans, I suspect they might not fully comply to OBD11.

Do you have an engine code??

Almost no one in Europe will run a gasoline version, they will 99% be Diesel

2.0 Duratec gas engine. never seen a diesel version. The gas ones have to be OBD2 compliant or they would not be allowed in. I had to reflash one, for IDK but It was the same as any reflash with the IDS

 

[signcrafter]

Yeo Will post up some pics Monday, FYI these rigs test the circuit not the relay itself, I used know good relays, pigtails off harness repair kits, and pins cut off other relays.

Did you get a chance to snap a few pics?

 

[Mxjr12]

I bought the verus ultra with the cart and computer screen for just under 9k and also have the snap on smoke machine. It runs on a uv dye baby oil and either the 18v batteries or the cars power. It can also run on shop air or co2 paintball tanks

 

[amlv20]

Yes that one

It had a EGR circuit code not a flow code, TSB applied, no other scan tool showed that MAF code, nor have I seen it , on other Connect ,plus this vehicle does fall under obd2 compliance so it should have the US protocols, but you may be right IDK. But this is just on example of bad codes in generic OBD2 I have seen, I cannot tell you how many times I have seen phantom codes on OBD2 generic, that are not there on the enhanced side. FYI I tried the generic side of IDS, Modis, OTC and Autel code reader on none showed that code, also I had several other times were that app flagged false codes I just do not remember the others off hand

How about generic scan tools clearing codes?or wiping out the stored mode 6 data?

I have also had experiences with an divisor that used to work here with that code reading app.he always had to scan the cars and write the code down on the ro.but the car would have at times three less codes or even 4 more codes than what he scanned.other instances it would have p1000, or a wiped out mode 6 and cleared monitors like if it reset the kam.
There was also a kid out of high school that they were trying to train in advising but he wanted to be a mechanic and he had a cheap scanner from sears.i don't know of it automatically cleared the codes or if he was doing it.but he would write it up with the code he scanned.i would self test it and would get nothing but p1000.very aggravating getting an ro to diag a p0171 and p0174 only to find no codes and freeze frame gone! That didn't last long.
Don't get me started on customers with generic scan tools or scan gauges

Scan gauges can be useful but fucks sakes don't clear the damn codes before you take it I tot he shop and then complain why you have to pay for wasting our time!

Only time I use a generic scanner is to clear codes quick after a repair.or someone wants a light cleared with out a diag.

 

[MLB0611]

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Here are the test rigs, as I said I used extra wires from a pigtail, the kind that go into a connector, IIRR it they were Chrysler pigtails they come with 2 gauge wires and you use what fits best, the ends are just pins from old relay soldered on the wires with shrink tubing., the Ford relay is just spade connectors.

 

[signcrafter]

Thanks for the pictures. So basically all you use them for is with an amp clamp to check for current flowing? The one I was thinking of making was more of a break out box and would check voltage of pins 85, 86, 87, and 30. Would make a jumper to go from pin 30 to 87 and could put an amp clamp on that jumper to measure current if needed.

 

[MLB0611]

Thanks for the pictures. So basically all you use them for is with an amp clamp to check for current flowing? The one I was thinking of making was more of a break out box and would check voltage of pins 85, 86, 87, and 30. Would make a jumper to go from pin 30 to 87 and could put an amp clamp on that jumper to measure current if needed.

I have the lisle relay adapters that do what you want so I did not need to test that way, but if you wanted to you could strip some insulation close to the relay and test there, just make sure it is high enough not to every have the change to contact the other wires.

 

[signcrafter]

I have the lisle relay adapters that do what you want so I did not need to test that way, but if you wanted to you could strip some insulation close to the relay and test there, just make sure it is high enough not to every have the change to contact the other wires.

I've eyed the lisle ones also but they are pretty pricey for the DIYer like me. If you have the lisle set why would you have these homemade ones? Doesn't lisle make a set of jumpers that you can use the lisle testers with your amp clamp? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N6Y0TY/?tag=atomicindus08-20. Or is there something else you use the homemade ones for. I like the homemade ones for us guys that just work on our own vehicles. A nice cost effective solution.

 

[MLB0611]

I've eyed the lisle ones also but they are pretty pricey for the DIYer like me. If you have the lisle set why would you have these homemade ones? Doesn't lisle make a set of jumpers that you can use the lisle testers with your amp clamp? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N6Y0TY/?tag=atomicindus08-20. Or is there something else you use the homemade ones for. I like the homemade ones for us guys that just work on our own vehicles. A nice cost effective solution.

I use them for getting waveforms for fuel pumps with a scope. I can see if there is a bad segment of the fuel pump and is about to fail or high amp draw etc. I am a drivability tech so every tool in the holster to make my job easier

Remember these were basically free, and makes it real easy to tap in with my scope.

 

[signcrafter]

I use them for getting waveforms for fuel pumps with a scope. I can see if there is a bad segment of the fuel pump and is about to fail or high amp draw etc. I am a drivability tech so every tool in the holster to make my job easier

Remember these were basically free, and makes it real easy to tap in with my scope.

Right I like them because they are cheap and simple for a guy like myself that has wanted the lisle testers for a while but haven't been able to justify the cost for home use. Was just wondering what someone like you uses them for if you already have the lisle relay testers? Wouldn't you just use the lisle testers and the jumper wire I linked to in my last post to hook up your amp clamp to them? Was just curious.

 

[MLB0611]

You get a cleaner signal with an inline connection on scope with an amp probe, better picture to see what is going on with the system

 

[mikeselky85]

i just went through another diag course my work sent me to. the guy teaching the class used relay leads like that and in the book he gave us it shows them and how useful they can be. its nice to see tools you can build on your own to make life easier

does anybody have any unusual tools that they use for diagnostics? i know of some load testers using bulbs but was wondering if anybody has any other strange but useful tools? homemade or not!

 

[amlv20]

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Here are the test rigs, as I said I used extra wires from a pigtail, the kind that go into a connector, IIRR it they were Chrysler pigtails they come with 2 gauge wires and you use what fits best, the ends are just pins from old relay soldered on the wires with shrink tubing., the Ford relay is just spade connectors.

Nice, made those in the ford electrical training courses, stopped using them and lost em when I got the lisle kit.

I so need a scope and amp clamp right now, got a stupid town car for a no start that starts every time.pump doesn't sound right but I need to catch it not starting it, a scope sure would be nice to see the condition of the pump.


I have load bulbs,noid lights,back probe pins,jump wires, lead extensions, and I made a test connector pigtail out of a used connector off a 7.3 to test the the under valve cover glow plugs and injectors at the valve cover, also a pigtail to test cmp sensors on 6.0s, and a pigtail to jump the frame fuel pump on 6.0 and 6.4s, a pigtail to full field the ipr to leak test without Ids.i also have a pin probe kit, and several different shape and size female and male pins to properly test pin fit and properly measure without destroying any pins.

I am looking into getting the rotunda test pin leads kit that we use in the ford classes but they are expenssiveeeee.

 

[MLB0611]

Nice, made those in the ford electrical training courses, stopped using them and lost em when I got the lisle kit.

I so need a scope and amp clamp right now, got a stupid town car for a no start that starts every time.pump doesn't sound right but I need to catch it not starting it, a scope sure would be nice to see the condition of the pump.


I have load bulbs,noid lights,back probe pins,jump wires, lead extensions, and I made a test connector pigtail out of a used connector off a 7.3 to test the the under valve cover glow plugs and injectors at the valve cover, also a pigtail to test cmp sensors on 6.0s, and a pigtail to jump the frame fuel pump on 6.0 and 6.4s, a pigtail to full field the ipr to leak test without Ids.i also have a pin probe kit, and several different shape and size female and male pins to properly test pin fit and properly measure without destroying any pins.

I am looking into getting the rotunda test pin leads kit that we use in the ford classes but they are expenssiveeeee.

My scope is something I use all the time, yesterday I used it on two different cars one right after the other., my amp clamp in one of it most used accessories, along with T pins, with a scope I do not own a noid light, I would rather see and have my amp and voltage on screen rather than a blinking light.

Most of those test lead kits are very expensive I have looked at several for different makes and every time I say no I can work around that

 

[signcrafter]

Is this the kind of test pins you guys are talking about, http://www.toolsource.com/professional-connector-probing-master-p-129349.html?

Where and when do you guys use these instead of just back probing? I ran across them searching for something else and couldn't really think of a time I would have needed them.

 

[MLB0611]

Is this the kind of test pins you guys are talking about, http://www.toolsource.com/professional-connector-probing-master-p-129349.html?

Where and when do you guys use these instead of just back probing? I ran across them searching for something else and couldn't really think of a time I would have needed them.

The kits I am talking about have factory connectors on them to plug into a component, and then to what ever it connects to, say a ecotech ignition module to the coil assembly, those are connected via pins and it bolts to the coil assembly, no way to back probe so the only option is use the jumper kit from kentmoore or replace with know good, know good is a cheaper option than the jumper kit from them
Other test kits are for testing air bag system replace XYZ component with tool and check reading on scan tool, required tools for dealer expensive for the aftermarket

 

[signcrafter]

Oh I see. So basically just cut off plug ends right?

So if a guy wanted to take a trip to the junkyard and grab a bunch of these what are some of the common ones he should grab? I'm sure it's different for different vehicles but say a 2000 F150 5.4. If you could grab any plug ends you wanted from a junkyard what ones would you grab?

 

[MLB0611]

Oh I see. So basically just cut off plug ends right?

So if a guy wanted to take a trip to the junkyard and grab a bunch of these what are some of the common ones he should grab? I'm sure it's different for different vehicles but say a 2000 F150 5.4. If you could grab any plug ends you wanted from a junkyard what ones would you grab?

The ones I am talking about have both male and female plugs, so It will plug into both the harness and the component.

I try to do all my testing dynamically, so the circuit is intact as possible, so nothing really changes except I can see what is going on, I am right now doing an engine on a 99 F-150 4x4 and really can not think of any pigtail I would get, I would say maybe a crank sensor pigtail but I do not see many of those sensors fail, FYI I am doing it the same way as my avatar cab off baby.