77Mini
Well-known member
I am sure this would work fine for a sport bike. Maybe not a Harley but they make store bought adaptors for that.
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I really like this idea. I am thinking I could do something similar for my ATV.
I am sure this would work fine for a sport bike. Maybe not a Harley but they make store bought adaptors for that.
View media item 80031
Keep an eye out for a Kendon lift. They work great and just stand up in the corner when you are done with it.I have been looking for a motorcycle lift on Craig's for awhile and trying to figure a safe way to lift my Ducati on my 2 post.... most of those balanceing acts make me nervous haha
At my previous house I converted my 2 post hoist into a motorcycle lift.

Isn’t that cool. Nicely done. Love the rest of the garage too.At my previous house I converted my 2 post hoist into a motorcycle lift.
i wanted to do this in my shop but was told by an engineer and rotary not to as the lifts are designed to move slightly and the walls are not. if you ever have a failure your insurance may not like the fact that you modified the lift and installed it against manufacturer recommendations.
my lift has a set of 120v electrical plugs on it but thats the only "mod" i have done to it.
Ray is your 4 post free to move on casters or attached to the floor? Nice set up by the way I get to see it on Vince's FB page for the Moto GP events.Looks like my lift setup got used as a poster child for using your lift like an elevator. Aside from placement, the challenge is decking a lift. Here's how I did it.
Top view of decking
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Bottom view
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Made out of a cut up extension ladder with a ply panel on top
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Ladder sections are pinned together with PVC pipe through the rungs.
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How it sits on the runner lips
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Cheap and light. I removed it for the pics with a car up in the air on the lift.

I use a Handy motorcycle lift model BOB 1500 in my garage for working on our trainer bikes and building up my personals.
I have always been bothered by the cast-iron brick of a foot pedal that is in the way while I'm walking around working on the bikes.
Quite some while ago I had the idea of mounting a valve into the side of the lift. The challenge was finding the right valve. This is a Nitra; not certified for jack or diddly. i.e. cheap. Yeah, I get that it's not made in the States, and I usually spring for the good stuff. But the Ingersoll Rand ARO valve equivalent was $100, and still made in Taiwan; that is a deal-breaker for me.
At any rate, I was able to assemble this in such a way that pulling the handle up raises the lift, it stops at flat (as pictured), and pressing the handle down drops the lift, with air vented through a silencer.
List of improvements: It doesn't require as much air pressure, it's faster, it's WAY more quiet, and most importantly I don't have to trip over hoses and iron bricks on the floor.
Stoked!
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For those making some type of attachment to raise by the wheels on a 2 post, I assume this only works on a symmetrical lift? I would likely make separate panels that spanned from the left to right across the lift arms instead of the fork style like in the first post.
I would rather have an asymmetric for ease of getting in and out of a vehicle but I’m afraid moving the lift point back under the rear axle will put too much strain on the base plates.
Physics, I think, would suggest otherwise.
The CG of the entire load would be the same if the car is positioned at the same point relative the posts.
I ran across this a while ago and thought it was a good idea. I think the only problem is its sorta vehicle specific since you cant adjust it much for width or length.
https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum...g-a-2-post-auto-lift-work-like-a-storage-lift
But what if you where able to adapt some type of wide channel on top, that ran front to back? Then you could drive on and get the c.o.g set. Then maybe add 4 fold down pipe legs like an alignment lift for safety. Obvious down side is it would weigh a ton and wouldn't be easy to take on and off. But if you needed to leave a car on it for months at a time it might be manageable. Maybe have some small wheels that mount on it to roll it in and out of the shop when you need it.
I Atlas sells a kit with new cables and riser, but the stock cables are already too long by about 8".
The original cables were long enough to raise the 'cross bar' the 4". The instructions are to add an 8" pipe spacer to the cables for the stock bar height, which did work fine.
No, just says buy some 3/4" pipe and cut to 8". Seems pretty hokey IMO. But I wasn't going to return the lift for it...![]()
Having had both, I prefer the 2-post and have that now. People always say 4 post is good for storing cars, but I have no problems putting a car under my two post. No idea why people can't figure that out. Put car on 2-post. Raise car. Put car underneath. You're making the lift a parking structure at that point so what does it matter if it's 2 or 4 posts?
The only thing I liked the 4 post for was exhaust. It was nice to have the suspension loaded while fabricating exhaust. With the 2 post I have to use a pole jack to load the suspension to simulate the car being loaded. Not a huge deal.
If you have not yet poured, I have encourage you to put lights in the floor like I did under the lift. It's an absolute GAME CHANGER. They are cheap and easy to install if you plan ahead.
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My lift has a 6 inch wide ledge added to it. Makes it nice to walk down the side when the car is up in the air. There is one on each side.
This is not actual lift related but it is really cool and close enough.![]()
