Lift modifications Thread- Lets see them!

[Old Man Roger]

I would be tripping over those ramps constantly if they were screwed to the floor.

 

[WaterBoyz]

I would be tripping over those ramps constantly if they were screwed to the floor.

Yep ! !

That is why I would not have a two-post with the trip hazard.

I need to make some lighter weight ramps for my HD-9. My finance department has refused to buy the foam ones and Santa Clause seems to be a tight-wade lately.

 

[lakeroadster]

I welded a bolt to my lift to mount my air line. Does this make me die?

Yes.. eventually... you will indeed die.

 

[Relax]

Not a mod really, but I've used this method to get my engine in and out of my bed a couple of times.

I've done the same with my 4-post to get a tire changer off the trailer. I've also raised lift to be level with a truck bed to slide/roll other stuff off.

 

[Flipper88]

I welded a bolt to my lift to mount my air line. Does this make me die?

What does your set up look like for lifting your motorcycle?

 

[Mancino]

Love the motorcycle adapter ideas you guys have shown! Definitely something I'm going to make

I did some small mods to my Mohawk. I couldn't stand the small tactile button it had to operate the lift. It was hard to press and hurt after holding my thumb there too long. It was also hard to find a replacement for because it was a 20a rated switch. And Mohawk made the switch box the size of a single receptle, so there wasn't much room to replace it with a full size switch assembly. So I replaced it with a flush mount switch and added a small relay to control the switching. For now this is all I had around, but eventually I'll add a lighted switch for looks

 

[Mancino]

Next mod was I found a pressure gauge to install on the hydraulics. Mohawk sells one, but it was stupid expensive!

 

[WaterBoyz]

Next mod was I found a pressure gauge to install on the hydraulics. Mohawk sells one, but it was stupid expensive!

Try:
Northern Tool + Equipment
Tractor Supply

 

[Mancino]

Try:
Northern Tool + Equipment
Tractor Supply

I already have mine installed. Think I bought it at Mcmaster years back.

 

[MrSurly]

What does your set up look like for lifting your motorcycle?

I wanted something that could slide under the parked bike without ramps or needing a chock, etc. a more permanent clamping mechanism is planned as well.

(I can’t seem to make the linking method work.) It’s post #225 in this thread






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Swanny1953]

Used 1/2” wide magnetic tape and Armacost LED tape lights to mount lights along the inside of both rails on my 4-post lift. Used sticky side of magnetic tape to the sticky side of the LED tape lights. The magnetic tape is a little wider than the LED tape lights, but shouldn’t be a problem.
Really adds a lot of light under the car.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[HETPE3B]

Folks, what in general do you use to screw something on the posts (e.g. outlets)? Self tapping screws, or screws with nuts or..?
If I'm bringing 220v to the outlet, can I "steal" 1 hot wire from it to make 110v outlet next to 220v outlet (I personally think no) or I need to have a separate dedicated wires for 110v outlet?

 

[Cardboard Man]

Yes you can. Just use one leg from your 240v (either the black or the red wire) and the white to create your 120v receptacle.

110/ 220 has been replaced over the years by 120/240.

 

[HETPE3B]

Yes you can. Just use one leg from your 240v (either the black or the red wire) and the white to create your 120v receptacle.

110/ 220 has been replaced over the years by 120/240.

Thanks for the response. I meant I knew how I can do it (physically). But looking from the point of view of electrical codes - is this something permitted or not permitted to do in general?

 

[Cardboard Man]

As long as the circuit is sized properly, meaning your usage isn't going to exceed the amperage of the breaker, and you use the proper gauge wire, I don't see a problem. You should even be able to put both receptacles in the same duplex box. Sometimes finding the cover plate in the right configuration can take a little searching, but it can be done.

 

[HETPE3B]

As long as the circuit is sized properly, meaning your usage isn't going to exceed the amperage of the breaker, and you use the proper gauge wire, I don't see a problem. You should even be able to put both receptacles in the same duplex box. Sometimes finding the cover plate in the right configuration can take a little searching, but it can be done.

Thank you! I’m planning to go with 6 gauge wire with 50A breaker. Hopefully it will be possible to feed it through the metal conduit with a lot of turns

 

[kingchevy]

Yes you can. Just use one leg from your 240v (either the black or the red wire) and the white to create your 120v receptacle.

110/ 220 has been replaced over the years by 120/240.

Where is the neutral coming from?

 

[HETPE3B]

Where is the neutral coming from?

From the breaker box.

 

[Dudebrowtf]

That is a really slick LED arrangement. Overall happy with them?

 

[Jlbc212]

Another motorcycle lift adaptation:

 

[timewarp]

Thank you! I’m planning to go with 6 gauge wire with 50A breaker. Hopefully it will be possible to feed it through the metal conduit with a lot of turns

You can't put a 15 or 20 amp outlet on a 50 amp breaker. It's against code.

 

[sberry]

Thank you! I’m planning to go with 6 gauge wire with 50A breaker. Hopefully it will be possible to feed it through the metal conduit with a lot of turns

What is it you are connecting to this? Not only is it dangerous to connect a 20A recept to this the lift is too.

 

[firebirdparts]

Another motorcycle lift adaptation:

Nice work! I need to build something like that. My dad is 81 and his goldwing has fallen into mild disrepair.

 

[mmb617]

Another motorcycle lift adaptation:

That's nice and certainly heavy duty. I'll bet it's a bear to move around though.

I debated whether to build mine as a drive-on or just lift under the frame. Kind of like deciding between a 2 post or 4 post lift for cars. There's no one right answer as both have their pros and cons.

 

[Jlbc212]

That's nice and certainly heavy duty. I'll bet it's a bear to move around though.

I debated whether to build mine as a drive-on or just lift under the frame. Kind of like deciding between a 2 post or 4 post lift for cars. There's no one right answer as both have their pros and cons.

Most of the time I can leave it where it is. It is low enough and narrow enough that any 4 wheeled vehicle can be driven over it. For those rare occasions when it might be in the way I just raise it up with the two post lift, place two HF moving dollies under it, lower the lift back down and push the motorcycle adapter on the dollies out. The adapter is also bolted together (no welds) so if I really needed to I can quickly disassemble it.

 

[sberry]

You can put both in the same pipe but not all 50A welders need number 6, very few do. Your hoist will be limited to a 30 circuit. The pipe to mine has a 240 circuit and some 120v ones.

 

[HETPE3B]

Thanks guys! Good idea about the subpanel.

 

[sberry]

I wouldn't mess with most of this unless I was adding a panel. I would run a pair of 10 for the hoist if it is 240 and add a welder outlet covered at 30A if that would run the welder I intended to use and run a separate set of 12 at 20A for utility outlets.

 

[ndm]

Guys,

I 100% appreciate you posting in this thread that I started and you have great information but I would love it if we kept this thread about the actual lift modifications themselves and less about the specifics about electrical wiring.

I really hesitated posting this message because I really love that everyone is being helpful here but I would just like to keep this thread more about the mods themselves.

Hope you all understand and do not take offense to my comments. Maybe if we started a new thread for the wiring specific stuff and posted a link here in this thread?

Thanks guys. I started this thread 3 years ago and am just delighted to see that there are still folks adding to it. I dont even have a lift yet but am looking forward to adding a bunch of these mods once I get mine.

 

[Fix Until Broke]

New thread over in the electrical section

Lift Modifications - Wiring Related

I've deleted my off topic posts in this thread, if others could do the same that would help clean this up and keep it on topic.

Thanks (and sorry again)

Fix Until Broke

 

[ndm]

New thread over in the electrical section

Lift Modifications - Wiring Related

I've deleted my off topic posts in this thread, if others could do the same that would help clean this up and keep it on topic.

Thanks (and sorry again)

Fix Until Broke

No sorry needed. Thanks for understanding.

 

[jaw22w]

I didn't see an introduction forum, so I'll start here. Long time racer and hotrodder. Been in my 30 x 36 shop for 33 years. We are getting ready to build a new 30 x 40 for my son at his place. My research led me here. I saw this post and figured I'd show what I did with my 4 poster.
I agonized over whether to buy a 2 or 4 post lift because of the advantages and disadvantages of each. I ended up buying a 4 poster. Well the first thing I needed to do was get the wheels off while on the lift. I just couldn't see my way clear to pay that much for those rolling jacks the lift maker offered, so I came up with this and I figured it fit here.
The lift came with a cross beam for jacking, but that was unhandy as hell. I hole sawed 1-1/2" holes in the beam and welded in pieces of 1-1/2" x .095 tube. I used 1-1/4" all thread and welded on short 2"x 2" pieces of angle. The all thread is long enough to be about 3" below the ramps with the angle against the axle. Drive the car on the ramps, raise it up to place the beam and stands under the axle. Lower the lift and the stands catch the car allowing the ramps to drop out from under the car. Run the nuts down and raise the lift back up. Now you can take the wheels off. I liked this trick so well I made another beam for the rear to get all the wheels off. Then I needed to do some suspension work, so I made 2 more beams at different centers to catch the frame. This really made the lift capable of a lot more for me. I hope somebody finds this useful.
Please ignore the plumb bobs. I was doing an alignment.

 

[ndm]

I didn't see an introduction forum, so I'll start here. Long time racer and hotrodder. Been in my 30 x 36 shop for 33 years. We are getting ready to build a new 30 x 40 for my son at his place. My research led me here. I saw this post and figured I'd show what I did with my 4 poster.
I agonized over whether to buy a 2 or 4 post lift because of the advantages and disadvantages of each. I ended up buying a 4 poster. Well the first thing I needed to do was get the wheels off while on the lift. I just couldn't see my way clear to pay that much for those rolling jacks the lift maker offered, so I came up with this and I figured it fit here.
The lift came with a cross beam for jacking, but that was unhandy as hell. I hole sawed 1-1/2" holes in the beam and welded in pieces of 1-1/2" x .095 tube. I used 1-1/4" all thread and welded on short 2"x 2" pieces of angle. The all thread is long enough to be about 3" below the ramps with the angle against the axle. Drive the car on the ramps, raise it up to place the beam and stands under the axle. Lower the lift and the stands catch the car allowing the ramps to drop out from under the car. Run the nuts down and raise the lift back up. Now you can take the wheels off. I liked this trick so well I made another beam for the rear to get all the wheels off. Then I needed to do some suspension work, so I made 2 more beams at different centers to catch the frame. This really made the lift capable of a lot more for me. I hope somebody finds this useful.
Please ignore the plumb bobs. I was doing an alignment.

That is awesome

 

[GetBoosted]

Subscribed. Great ideas on this thread!!! I've been agonizing over going with with a 2 post or a 4 post and this last post was especially helpful.

 

[firebirdparts]

I didn't see an introduction forum, so I'll start here. Long time racer and hotrodder. Been in my 30 x 36 shop for 33 years. We are getting ready to build a new 30 x 40 for my son at his place. My research led me here. I saw this post and figured I'd show what I did with my 4 poster.
I agonized over whether to buy a 2 or 4 post lift because of the advantages and disadvantages of each. I ended up buying a 4 poster. Well the first thing I needed to do was get the wheels off while on the lift. I just couldn't see my way clear to pay that much for those rolling jacks the lift maker offered, so I came up with this and I figured it fit here.
The lift came with a cross beam for jacking, but that was unhandy as hell. I hole sawed 1-1/2" holes in the beam and welded in pieces of 1-1/2" x .095 tube. I used 1-1/4" all thread and welded on short 2"x 2" pieces of angle. The all thread is long enough to be about 3" below the ramps with the angle against the axle. Drive the car on the ramps, raise it up to place the beam and stands under the axle. Lower the lift and the stands catch the car allowing the ramps to drop out from under the car. Run the nuts down and raise the lift back up. Now you can take the wheels off. I liked this trick so well I made another beam for the rear to get all the wheels off. Then I needed to do some suspension work, so I made 2 more beams at different centers to catch the frame. This really made the lift capable of a lot more for me. I hope somebody finds this useful.
Please ignore the plumb bobs. I was doing an alignment.

Brilliant!

 

[ndm]

Adding another lift mod that I found very clever.

find it here
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249683&page=3

My son has a small airbrush compressor that is almost silent. I borrowed it to try on the Bendpak lift I recently got, to open the air cylinder locks. The thing works perfectly and even has a regulator to dial in the correct psi needed. It builds the pressure needed to release the locks in just a second or two and is QUIET!

Here is a link to the one I bought: Compressor

Go to about 17:00 minutes on this video and you can hear how quiet: Video

Used a 1/4" pipe male elbow to hook the air switch right to the regulator and mounted the unit right above the hydraulic unit on the lift. Easier install and less money than the Bendpak air cylinder kit too.

Figured I'd share a cheap, easy and good solution for those of us that don't have the garage plumbed for air yet. Couldn't be happier with the results.

Jmx,

A better photo you had asked me for.

I'm digging up this old thread because it was referenced in another more recent one. I liked this idea so much I stole a version of it.

I have air in my garage, a big 220V 60gal horiz.
But it's not on all the time. So it's inconvenient (and overkill) to fire it up just to take the car down to go for a spin.

The airbrush compressor is a great idea! But when my wife got wind of what I was planning, she wanted to go bigger, and suggested this: Dewalt 1 gal. trim compressor.

That way she could use it in the house when she needed it for her upholstery stapler or brad nailer instead of having me haul the portable air tank inside.

Finally got it hooked up this weekend and it works great! It's super quiet, it builds pressure in 1 minute, and it's easy to unhook it. Plugged it into a switched outlet so I just flip the switch when I want to get the car down.

Thanks for the inspiration thickhead

edit: updated with finished setup.

Nailer compressor sits on my spare ramp (double wide lift), plumbed into the lock release, and plugged into a switched socket. Just unplug it from the system when I want to use the compressor elsewhere.

 

[ndm]

This post has what I think is great info as well as a photo of some jacks being used with a 4 post lift which I have never seen before.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=439504

with the exception of bouncing and settling the car, you cant go wrong with the 4 post.

 

[WaterBoyz]

This post has what I think is great info as well as a photo of some jacks being used with a 4 post lift which I have never seen before.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=439504

I like the "storage" the runways have
There is none with a 2-post.

 

[ndm]

I like the "storage" the runways have
There is none with a 2-post.

That IMO is a great benefit of a 4 post. As you are working on a vehicle you have a built in table to place in use tools without having to roll a cart or anything into place.

 

[Oldbear]

That IMO is a great benefit of a 4 post. As you are working on a vehicle you have a built in table to place in use tools without having to roll a cart or anything into place.

And to crawl under when said tools lands in between the ramps...

But I'd rather have my 4-post