The Colorado hail must be targeting the Montana plates. Doh!Lots going on, will update here soon. Until then, here’s a snapshot of the garage side which is now nearly complete layout-wise.
Primary reason for getting it wrapped up was to make space for all the vehicles. It’s hail season in Colorado now and I’m not getting hail damage this year.
View attachment 2323227
If I’d layed out the cabinets differently I could have easily had permanent parking for all 5. This will do seasonally. I’m able to park the JK (white Jeep) daily with no issue. Yellow Jeep is just wide enough it would be difficult to back out without moving the tractor. Good news is Andrew is still up at college so it can stay put for now.
Above 1200 Sq/FT LilScorpion’s Fab Space
- Thread starter lilscorpion
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
I seriously hope not!!
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
I am not awesome. Been running between weekends and work travel for the last few months and haven’t been taking as many pics as I usually do…this the no updates. Let me see if I can splice it all together.
Two weekends I spent all my time getting the front landscape in order. Getting down on your knees and back up again 20 or 30 times a day is killer. That said having a small tractor to do the mulch was amazing.
It’s that time of year, for a few rain delays that brought some spectacular views.
Where the hell is the pot of gold?!? Nothing.
Figures.
Got the press brake together an working. Not nearly as bad as I expected and I have an early unit.
Plumbed the coolant tanks for the plasma table. I’ll be able to drain the full table when not in use which will prevent evaporation and make it easier to clean. Then when I want to cut, I open the valve and 4psi pushes the water back up into the table. The system took a bit of debugging - e.g. I over filled the table and when it drained I was t paying attention and if few gallons pumped onto the floor and made a nice little mess.
With coolant in the table, I ran the machine towards its initial cycles and figured out how to make parts in Fusion 360. Creating the post was a little tricky but I worked thru it with help from @slodat. Thank you sir.
Back to the press brake…bent the first cut on the plasma on the brake. They’re spacers for the led power supply utility boxes that run the under counter lights in the shop.
Can’t tell you how excited I am to be able to make repeatable parts like this again.
Then sand blast and powder coat. I’ll be able to create parts FULL lifecycle. CAD to installed. Amazing.
This bracket enables me to mount the LED power supply box around the conduit and copper up on the wall.
Two weekends I spent all my time getting the front landscape in order. Getting down on your knees and back up again 20 or 30 times a day is killer. That said having a small tractor to do the mulch was amazing.
It’s that time of year, for a few rain delays that brought some spectacular views.
Where the hell is the pot of gold?!? Nothing.
Figures.
Got the press brake together an working. Not nearly as bad as I expected and I have an early unit.
Plumbed the coolant tanks for the plasma table. I’ll be able to drain the full table when not in use which will prevent evaporation and make it easier to clean. Then when I want to cut, I open the valve and 4psi pushes the water back up into the table. The system took a bit of debugging - e.g. I over filled the table and when it drained I was t paying attention and if few gallons pumped onto the floor and made a nice little mess.
With coolant in the table, I ran the machine towards its initial cycles and figured out how to make parts in Fusion 360. Creating the post was a little tricky but I worked thru it with help from @slodat. Thank you sir.
Back to the press brake…bent the first cut on the plasma on the brake. They’re spacers for the led power supply utility boxes that run the under counter lights in the shop.
Can’t tell you how excited I am to be able to make repeatable parts like this again.
Then sand blast and powder coat. I’ll be able to create parts FULL lifecycle. CAD to installed. Amazing.
This bracket enables me to mount the LED power supply box around the conduit and copper up on the wall.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Which in turn enabled me to get the undercabinet LED lights working.
The picture above does a nice job depicting my situation the shop. I have about nine projects going at once all in various stages of completion and most of which are waiting on parts. That said it’s an amazing work surface and I can’t wait to have the initial build of everything done so that I can focus on one project at a time.
And on the other side…
I’m working through the final set up of the countertop and finalizing the last three drawers of tap organizers, which ended up being a lot more work than I thought it was going to. Also, you can vaguely make out the tap station.
I’ve been messing around with these air cylinders and valves which I plan to use with my home automation set up so that I can open my blast gates for each of the machines around the shop.
Simple bracket, should work with a little more time and thought. Fun little project tho.
The picture above does a nice job depicting my situation the shop. I have about nine projects going at once all in various stages of completion and most of which are waiting on parts. That said it’s an amazing work surface and I can’t wait to have the initial build of everything done so that I can focus on one project at a time.
And on the other side…
I’m working through the final set up of the countertop and finalizing the last three drawers of tap organizers, which ended up being a lot more work than I thought it was going to. Also, you can vaguely make out the tap station.
I’ve been messing around with these air cylinders and valves which I plan to use with my home automation set up so that I can open my blast gates for each of the machines around the shop.
Simple bracket, should work with a little more time and thought. Fun little project tho.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
This weekend I got after the new powder coating oven. Need it done soon. Started by finalizing the base. This will make more sense later but I need the oven to be 3-4” off the ground so the heat doesn’t screw up the epoxy floors.
The front of the base has 2” extra on both sides which will eventually be the base of the door hinge and door frame.
Now on to the oven itself. Been a while since I’ve played with these steel studs. They’re so flimsy compared to the steel I’m used to working with. Decided I’d use the welding table to fixture up pieces for the sides so I could make two exactly the same much faster.
Started by adding the bottom and riveting it home.
Added in the one terrible studs. The large middle section is where the side elements will go.
Flipped it over and end for end. Added the bottom and rivets on the other side.
Set it aside and started working on the hot air returns. There will be two fans, one for each side, in the top that return the air down the walls and into the side recessed element boxes. This is supposed to help prevent as many hot spots when recessing elements.
this is just traditional HVAC stuff I grafted and riveted together. I’ll take or goop them up later.
Cut a window in the top of the side walls with a 4” cutoff wheel.
Slide it in. Nearly perfectly centered in the
The front of the base has 2” extra on both sides which will eventually be the base of the door hinge and door frame.
Now on to the oven itself. Been a while since I’ve played with these steel studs. They’re so flimsy compared to the steel I’m used to working with. Decided I’d use the welding table to fixture up pieces for the sides so I could make two exactly the same much faster.
Started by adding the bottom and riveting it home.
Added in the one terrible studs. The large middle section is where the side elements will go.
Flipped it over and end for end. Added the bottom and rivets on the other side.
Set it aside and started working on the hot air returns. There will be two fans, one for each side, in the top that return the air down the walls and into the side recessed element boxes. This is supposed to help prevent as many hot spots when recessing elements.
this is just traditional HVAC stuff I grafted and riveted together. I’ll take or goop them up later.
Cut a window in the top of the side walls with a 4” cutoff wheel.
Slide it in. Nearly perfectly centered in the
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
I’m using 16ga galvanized sheet inside and out. Typically I’ve seen builds where they use much thinner sheet, some as thin as 29 ga. The benefit of running thicker sheet is that the oven, once it gets up to temp, will hold temp better than a thinner skinned oven. Good for when you open the door to load parts. Helps reduce recovery time. Conversely, it will take longer to heat and cool down…
This Milwaukee sheer is technically rated for up to 18ga but I decided to give it a go anyway. Worked extremely well. I could have used the plasma cutter but this was way faster and there was no clean up or messin around with CAD. Took maybe 2 minutes.
Before skinning the inside of the walls I decided to reinforce the front of each wall. It also looks nicer for the moment. Eventually I’ll add an 1/8” cap to help the door hinges have something more substantial to hang on to.
Then floured the sheet into place and locked them in place with 4 rivets.
I didn’t bother taking pictures of making the back walls or bottom, but here’s how far I got. Half of the inner walls skimmed with the upper return plentums.
Had a little time left this evening so I thought I’d make the ceiling frame and lay out the lights and fans. This is a smaller fan that isn’t strong enough but I laid it in to get an idea ahead of the fans arriving Tuesday. Think I’m going to run 5 lights around the 2 fans. I can make it work and you can never have too much light. I was pleased with the progress I made this weekend. Stuff takes way longer than I thought it would.
This Milwaukee sheer is technically rated for up to 18ga but I decided to give it a go anyway. Worked extremely well. I could have used the plasma cutter but this was way faster and there was no clean up or messin around with CAD. Took maybe 2 minutes.
Before skinning the inside of the walls I decided to reinforce the front of each wall. It also looks nicer for the moment. Eventually I’ll add an 1/8” cap to help the door hinges have something more substantial to hang on to.
Then floured the sheet into place and locked them in place with 4 rivets.
I didn’t bother taking pictures of making the back walls or bottom, but here’s how far I got. Half of the inner walls skimmed with the upper return plentums.
Had a little time left this evening so I thought I’d make the ceiling frame and lay out the lights and fans. This is a smaller fan that isn’t strong enough but I laid it in to get an idea ahead of the fans arriving Tuesday. Think I’m going to run 5 lights around the 2 fans. I can make it work and you can never have too much light. I was pleased with the progress I made this weekend. Stuff takes way longer than I thought it would.
larry4406
Well-known member
Nice fab on the new oven!
I like that belt grinder on the work bench in the background of your pictures. What brand is it?
I like that belt grinder on the work bench in the background of your pictures. What brand is it?
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Fab work is outstanding... Ford bumpers in the future??
mercracing
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2015
- Messages
- 156
Amazing progress!
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Curious why you are adding lights? Neither of my ovens have lights and I haven’t wished they did. Oven looks great!
Not positive on the brand but looks to be one of the belt grinder attachments for bench grinders:
Multitool 2x48 Belt Grinder Sander
The Multitool 2 x 48 belt grinding attachment for your bench grinder removes material up to 5 times faster than with the equivalent grit grinding wheel.
www.trick-tools.com
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
It’s a craftsman grinder from a long time ago from Sears days with, as @loganb suspected, a multi-tool attachment on it. It’s slightly underpowered for the attachment so eventually I’ll likely get a bigger unit for the belt and revert it back to a regular Grindr.
I might make bumpers but probably not. Made formed bumpers back in the day and the finish work is too time consuming.
Really? Lights make it easier to see when the powder on a part “flows out”. It’s an important stage for determining when primers or base coats are nearly ready to be pulled from the oven so they can cool and then have the next coat applied. The lights create a reflection off of the gloss of the part after it flows. I use the lights in my DIY ovens all the time for this reason, can’t imagine not having them tho I do know that most larger commercial ovens don’t. I may not run the 5 you see tho. Space will be at a premium - when I laid it out last night I didn’t take into account the gantry rails I need to work into the ceiling. Adding them in changes everything.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Another long and productive weekend. Top will have two “layers” if you will. This is the second. First layer will be what the ceiling if the oven attaches to and house the lights and expose the intake for the circulation fans. Here I’m building the basic skeleton.
Never cut galvanized sheet on the plasma table before. Needed some samples to cut so I could make sure that I’m getting a good cut so I decided to make coupons, but I will ultimately use the press brake for the element boxes. Best case I ended up with a bunch of coupons. Worst case I end up with a bunch of junk I threw out out of scrap that I cut from the interior walls.
They turned out extremely well,
I cut a couple of samples of the white holes to make sure they’re tight enough tha they’ll fit well and locate well.
They’re perfect. Good enough for the kind of stuff I make.
The water table absorbs most of the smoke which is good because galvanized releases toxic fumes.
I realized that I failed to add the provisions for the return ducks that are centered on either side wall. No biggie. I can add them in easily with the hand sheer.
On what feels like a roll, I decided to cut the bottom of the oven bottom. This has dozens of holes drilled so that I can more easily add the rivets perfectly spaced to hit the ribs in the floor.
Damn light, can barely see the holes
Never cut galvanized sheet on the plasma table before. Needed some samples to cut so I could make sure that I’m getting a good cut so I decided to make coupons, but I will ultimately use the press brake for the element boxes. Best case I ended up with a bunch of coupons. Worst case I end up with a bunch of junk I threw out out of scrap that I cut from the interior walls.
They turned out extremely well,
I cut a couple of samples of the white holes to make sure they’re tight enough tha they’ll fit well and locate well.
They’re perfect. Good enough for the kind of stuff I make.
The water table absorbs most of the smoke which is good because galvanized releases toxic fumes.
I realized that I failed to add the provisions for the return ducks that are centered on either side wall. No biggie. I can add them in easily with the hand sheer.
On what feels like a roll, I decided to cut the bottom of the oven bottom. This has dozens of holes drilled so that I can more easily add the rivets perfectly spaced to hit the ribs in the floor.
Damn light, can barely see the holes
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
with the floor bottom in place, I cut a duplicate on the table for the top of the floor bottom. Before I attached it I added insulation. One layer of insulation suited to handle up to 1200°. That’s about 3 inches thick and 1 inch of 2000° insulation
With the oven bottom done, I set the walls back in place and pre-clamp everything
Time to attach the walls. These are the thin sheet metal studs so anchoring them to the floor, which is now 16 gauge plus the thickness of the studs as well, is a weak connection. I decided to add sandwich plates
The drill head is quite remarkable. An air cylinder pushes the drill quill down, so that is lower than the torch head and then the Z axis lowers until Z0 and drills the depth of the cut. The accuracy is solid
With the holes drilled, the air cylinders released the spindle raises, and now the torch becomes the primary tool.
Here is an anchor/sandwich plate and one installed right behind it.
These plates are used in every location where the walls meet the floor. 44 rivets total
Hard to imagine I can spend so much time and make what appears to be so little progress.
That said, I have most of the ceiling done and I’m waiting on a few parts so that I can assemble it.
I did go downstairs and pull the temperature controller off the shelf and bring it out to the shop. It’s a nice little unit that I bought on Amazon when I stumbled across a 30% off deal.
With the oven bottom done, I set the walls back in place and pre-clamp everything
Time to attach the walls. These are the thin sheet metal studs so anchoring them to the floor, which is now 16 gauge plus the thickness of the studs as well, is a weak connection. I decided to add sandwich plates
The drill head is quite remarkable. An air cylinder pushes the drill quill down, so that is lower than the torch head and then the Z axis lowers until Z0 and drills the depth of the cut. The accuracy is solid
With the holes drilled, the air cylinders released the spindle raises, and now the torch becomes the primary tool.
Here is an anchor/sandwich plate and one installed right behind it.
These plates are used in every location where the walls meet the floor. 44 rivets total
Hard to imagine I can spend so much time and make what appears to be so little progress.
That said, I have most of the ceiling done and I’m waiting on a few parts so that I can assemble it.
I did go downstairs and pull the temperature controller off the shelf and bring it out to the shop. It’s a nice little unit that I bought on Amazon when I stumbled across a 30% off deal.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
I’ll add a few things like a three color light tower green for on yellow for a temperature and red for timer expired and a light switch
Lots of progress still lots to do. Next weekend I wanna get it fired and running on the long weekend. If I’m lucky, I’ll be making the parts by the end of the weekend. Thanks for following along.
Lots of progress still lots to do. Next weekend I wanna get it fired and running on the long weekend. If I’m lucky, I’ll be making the parts by the end of the weekend. Thanks for following along.
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Horror Business
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2014
- Messages
- 504
Excellent progress!
cccoltsicehockey
Well-known member
Love to see all the progress. Very cool that you are building this yourself.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Thank you
Jayman17
Well-known member
I don't think I've ever seen the end of a rainbow! 
Love what you are doing in the shop too
Love what you are doing in the shop too
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
That’s EXACTLY what I was thinking in the moment. Love that pic. And thank you!I don't think I've ever seen the end of a rainbow!
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Only had an hour or so in the shop tonight so I cut out the ovens inner lower side panels.
Like a glove.
Left me with some nice square drops I can use for some of the smaller boxes I need to make.
Need to get the back lower panel into cad. It’s the last interior panel I need to cut. Just realized I can see myself in the panel’s reflection. Ha.
Like a glove.
Left me with some nice square drops I can use for some of the smaller boxes I need to make.
Need to get the back lower panel into cad. It’s the last interior panel I need to cut. Just realized I can see myself in the panel’s reflection. Ha.
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Man I wish I had a CNC router. Just need another shop to put it in.
The drill accessory on the plasma has me thinking I could hack something like that on mine. just need a chuck...
The drill accessory on the plasma has me thinking I could hack something like that on mine. just need a chuck...
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
The ribs can/do cause problems. There’s a little vibration that can cause the sheet to shake. The rib won’t move, or hasn’t yet. On small scrap pieces of material I would assume it’s devastating and could move it around. Per @slodat recommendation, I drill cycle all homes first and with large enough and/or heavy enough sheets, the vibration doesn’t matter.
To mitigate a bit, I set up the drilling cycle specifically to reduce the consequences by setting the drill thru to be minimal. I don’t actually care if the drill thru is complete because I can easily finish with a hand drill if the hole is most of the way thru and it won’t affect the hole placement if at all. With this .191 drill bit, I drill thru .065.
Drill head is amazing. I’ve always had a hard time with plasma cut hole accuracy and the way I dealt with it was to oversized which sometimes comes with its own problems. Didn’t have one on either of my previous tables but I’m learning now it’s almost a have to have if for nothing else but to drill an accurate pilot hole to be sized up later. If the plan is to make accurate parts that is.
To have one, the key to me is to figure out how to handle the X/Y offset and then the Z-zero for material surface when using the drill head.
Assuming your control uses standard G-code, would a work coordinate select or shift work? For example, your cutting head uses G54 and your drill head uses G55. Or use a G52 coordinate shift for the drill, since the X- and Y-offset between your two heads should be known/consistent.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Yup, it’s G54/G55. This is how they do it (xy down below is made up)
G54 ; Use plasma coordinates
[plasma cutting]
G55 ; Switch to drill coordinates
G0 X1.0 Y1.0 ; Move to drill position
M3 ; Start spindle (if applicable)
G81 Z-0.5 R0.1 F5.0 ; Drill cycle: to Z-0.5, retract to 0.1
M5 ; Stop spindle
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Yesterday was a day of ups and downs. I’d precut a bunch of parts preparing to make all the return ducts but ended up spending a few hours trying to get the Titan 25T to start up. It either black screens or sits on this screen forever.
Eventually, after a dozen tries, it did end up booting. Frustrated and ready to get after the actual work I wanted to do, I couldn’t get it to bend anything other than max bend on 16ga (where the knife wants to bottom out in the die). I wasted a bunch ot metal trying too. I decided to update the software and now I get this screen after a partial boot occasionally.
Frowny face is right. Shifted back to the oven. I’ve made parts like this by hand so f-it. Started in on getting the light cans installed.
Went quickly and I fit the rivets installed fairly consistently. The other 3 are return ducts and I’m waiting on parts so I’ll circle back hopefully end of day today.
Next I installed the top of the oven, or the roof if you will. Just adding this piece of 16ga made it much more rigid and heavy.
From there the rest of the day was spent working on the return system. Rivnuts were installed so the blower can be removed for servicing or replacement. Boxes banned and riveted to the top.
the front fan returns to the rear wall.
The side blowers return to their respective walls and required less duct overall but goofier boxes.
Eventually, after a dozen tries, it did end up booting. Frustrated and ready to get after the actual work I wanted to do, I couldn’t get it to bend anything other than max bend on 16ga (where the knife wants to bottom out in the die). I wasted a bunch ot metal trying too. I decided to update the software and now I get this screen after a partial boot occasionally.
Frowny face is right. Shifted back to the oven. I’ve made parts like this by hand so f-it. Started in on getting the light cans installed.
Went quickly and I fit the rivets installed fairly consistently. The other 3 are return ducts and I’m waiting on parts so I’ll circle back hopefully end of day today.
Next I installed the top of the oven, or the roof if you will. Just adding this piece of 16ga made it much more rigid and heavy.
From there the rest of the day was spent working on the return system. Rivnuts were installed so the blower can be removed for servicing or replacement. Boxes banned and riveted to the top.
the front fan returns to the rear wall.
The side blowers return to their respective walls and required less duct overall but goofier boxes.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
The right blower box is a stubby little guy because of how close the flange is to the turn down.
Didn’t quite get finished last night, still need to make the top.
Didn’t quite get finished last night, still need to make the top.
csp
Well-known member
If you need any actual oven parts we just pulled two wall ovens out last week. You're welcome to any parts before they go to the scrap yard.
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Oven build reminds me of a place I worked at that made temperature ovens for crystal oscillator testing. Made everything in-house, circuit boards, software, full machine shop. They had to be within 1 degree C anywhere/everywhere in oven, which is no easy task, from -40 C to 150 C. Used nitrogen or compressor cooling, electric heat. The amount of mass in the oven affected things too. It was interesting work, I did a bit of everything.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Making more progress on the oven. Not picture heavy but a few of the element pans.
The brake works well even without the back gauge (still waiting on a part). 4 pans in the oven. Limitations on the brake caused me to swap tooling in and out for the various bends but it wasn’t bad.
Folding up the last two bends I had to get out the gooseneck. Needed to make sure I didn’t crash the air deflector on the box.
Not bad. 4 boxes in short order.
Next I made the trim pieces. Took a little fiddling but got them sorted. I was uncertain if I’d be able to cut and firm them without a bunch of hand trimming but the boxes must have been much more accurate than I could have hoped. A good sign that the plasma table and brake are working out!
One test fit. Looks great.
All of them in place look even better.
The brake works well even without the back gauge (still waiting on a part). 4 pans in the oven. Limitations on the brake caused me to swap tooling in and out for the various bends but it wasn’t bad.
Folding up the last two bends I had to get out the gooseneck. Needed to make sure I didn’t crash the air deflector on the box.
Not bad. 4 boxes in short order.
Next I made the trim pieces. Took a little fiddling but got them sorted. I was uncertain if I’d be able to cut and firm them without a bunch of hand trimming but the boxes must have been much more accurate than I could have hoped. A good sign that the plasma table and brake are working out!
One test fit. Looks great.
All of them in place look even better.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
With the press brake and plasma table working now, I'm starting to have new organizational ideas. Here's one: I have a bunch of tooling for the lathe that I just have sitting in drawers now. I'm thinking about creating a rack of sorts to keep them spaced such that they won't damage each other sliding around in the drawer and are much easier to access with a single hand. I'll use a post-like block like this.
The threaded holes will be what retains the block to the baseplate/organizer.
The holes are spaced to create flexibility and options when it comes to how the tooling will fit within a rack.
Total I'll likely be able to fit in a single tray is 6 tools unless I utilize a double sided post. I plan to make a prototype when I get home.
The threaded holes will be what retains the block to the baseplate/organizer.
The holes are spaced to create flexibility and options when it comes to how the tooling will fit within a rack.
Total I'll likely be able to fit in a single tray is 6 tools unless I utilize a double sided post. I plan to make a prototype when I get home.
b-dog
Well-known member
Can't wait to see what you come up with! I've been wanting to make some kind of lathe tooling rack.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Have it a go once I got home. Cot “blank”
And bam!
Mocked up.
Wedges installed and trays in the drawers. Ultimately I’ll screw them to the drawer bottoms after powder coating.
Like ‘em. The 10* angle makes them more ergonomic to grab and put back. Will see over time if the angle could be more or less.
And bam!
Mocked up.
Wedges installed and trays in the drawers. Ultimately I’ll screw them to the drawer bottoms after powder coating.
Like ‘em. The 10* angle makes them more ergonomic to grab and put back. Will see over time if the angle could be more or less.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Probably 30 minutes in cad, few minutes to cut on the plasma table, a minute to clean dross with wire wheel, and 10 minutes on the press brake.
Only formed on the brake, no welds.
The aluminum tool blocks however were machined a few years back on my CNC mill. They probably took 6-8 hours to machine but I made about 30 of them.
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Love those holders, i'm now thinking of 3d printing them and installing on pegboard to sit in the toolbox drawer. Great idea!!
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
We’re thinking alike sir! In fact, check out what I found a few nights ago which stimulated this idea in general and what I’ll be doing when I get time to make a splash guard for my lathe -Love those holders, i'm now thinking of 3d printing them and installing on pegboard to sit in the toolbox drawer. Great idea!!
I’m not yet sure how practical this will be for how many tools I have, but the concept is solid and should save movement over pulling tools from a drawer. I may combine the idea with what I just made and have maybe half a dozen holders on the splash guard and use them temporarily while I use the lathe but keep the tools in the drawer when not in use.
This design incorporates slots over holes like unused and would be more configurable but I liked the strength of holes.
And the holders are printed. I’ll print some as well (the car models above use functions in 360 and I made them configurable so they can be either single or double sided. I’ll print some this weekend and see how I like them.
