To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Above 1200 Sq/FT LilScorpion’s Fab Space

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
FHA is guys, appreciate the compliments. Truely.

Since I’m feeling behind I’m going to attempt to maenorigress each night this week. 2-3 hours if I can manage. Tonight I decided to sort out getting the lower read duct into the oven cavity. But first, I cleaned up around the shop. Put away tools and decided to clean out the chip bin below the dry/cold saw.

IMG_7519.jpeg

This is the first time since I made the cart and I’ve been impressed at how well it does collecting the chips. After cutting a bit I do have a little to sweep but barely any considering how the saw throws chips.

IMG_7520.jpeg

Filled one dust pan full.

IMG_7521.jpeg

On with the oven…First step, unfortunately, was to fix a mistake I made end of night last night. The part was a little long so I trimmed it a little short.

IMG_7522.jpeg

Easiest way to fix was to re-cut the part. If I’m gonna make another one, might as well make it better. Cutting and forming was easy (remember it was too long). Made the marks and narrower to close the gap.

IMG_7525.jpeg

Hand trimming is easier than messing with adjusting the model. Got the length right and chose to overlap the back with a flap to add strength.

IMG_7526.jpeg

Now to cut it in.

I had already figured out where I wanted the predict to sit last. Ight so I marked the general location near the bottom to match.

IMG_7530.jpeg

The dust has two parts - inner C and a cap that I’ll add when finished. This allows me to get inside in the future if I need to. Little lesson I learned from the big oven.

IMG_7531.jpeg

After measuring inside and out I marked the outside and drilled the edges.

IMG_7528.jpeg

Cut from the outside first.

IMG_7529.jpeg
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Took a little while but decided slow was fast and crept up on the final dimensions.


IMG_7533.jpeg

My large gooseneck die could just barely make the 2.25” x 3” flang at the bottom and it turned out it was barely enough to get inside the oven. Maybe a 1/4” inside if I’m lucky. (Sorry, not a great pic). Now I’ll need to be creative on how I add the inner flange or bezel.

IMG_7536.jpeg

This is where I’ll leave off tonight. I’m very close. Sort the bezel and get it attached. The. Insulation.

IMG_7538.jpeg
 
Last edited:
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Man I’ve been trying to work through this thread for a week now lol. Holy cow.

I don’t know what you do for work or what you are planing to do in this shop other than build the shop but dang is it fun to watch!
My shop is my happy place. 🤓

Im in tech but happen to have a background in the trades,” with a few of them being metal fab/machining. Simply put, the machines I have in my home shop now are smaller (and more advanced) versions of machines I had 20 years ago which then used professionally to make money.

Though most of my recent projects are specific to working on and builds the shop, that’s really just a moment in time - two years ago my wife and I bought (ideally) our last home that had an attached dream shop. All of the posts since then have been getting it set up while fixing the house up in parallel.

Once I get thru moving it, you’ll see my projects drift back more towards my interests - I like automotive performance (on/offroad), improving shop storage and efficiencies, evolving my shop capabilities in general, and household improvements. Most projects will fit in one or more of these categories. In all cases, I’d rather build it than buy it.
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Quick project at lunch today. I’ve shared before but figure it’s worth sharing again - drill chuck hack.

I have a mag drill that I wanted to have chuck for. Specifically it’s a HMD904.

IMG_7553.jpeg

The chuck adapter they offer for it has a 5/8-16 mount/thread. They also offer a chuck for $80

IMG_7554.jpeg

I’m kinda a Chuck snob. I’d prefer to get a name brand if I can and usually better quality for less. I found this posting on EBay for Jacobs 3B chucks @ $40 a piece shipped.

IMG_7551.jpeg

These are new old stock chucks.

IMG_7552.jpeg

Bought 2 of them for $80 on eBay shipped. They arrived in about a week and as anticipated, assembly grease had dried out and they both were difficult to open. No matter, got out my chuck fixtures to pull them apart.

IMG_7544.jpeg

Remove the half nuts

IMG_7546.jpeg

One at a time I remove the jaws, clean them, and reinstall with some white lithium grease,

IMG_7547.jpeg

Slip the shell back on

IMG_7548.jpeg

And press it back together

IMG_7549.jpeg

Like butter

IMG_7550.jpeg

Have two brand new Jacob’s chucks for the same price as one import no-name off of Amazon.
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Crackin away on the oven tonight. Started by making the duct vent for the inside. This is a change of plans. Could t figure out how to get the first version sealed after installing so I decided it was much easier to make it all one welded assembly. This piece is made out of cold finish steel so I can weld it (galvanized is not healthy to weld of course).

IMG_7555.jpeg

This vent had to be had trimmed to fit the odd shape of the wall of the oven. Managed to get the 14ga assembly fully welded without distorting it too.

IMG_7556.jpeg

Final fit, pretty good.

IMG_7561.jpeg

Needed to remove the beginning of the galvanized one from the other night. Easy stuff, just drilled out the rivets.

IMG_7557.jpeg

Now clamp the new one in place and match drill the rivet holes to match.

IMG_7558.jpeg

Now to get it installed I need to inset the vent from the inside and then be able to install the rivets on the side facing the back of the oven. Wasn’t a brilliant idea to have them there but there’s an easy fix. Cut the back skin

IMG_7562.jpeg

Remove the insulation

IMG_7563.jpeg

Cut the end of the duct off so I can fit the rivet fun over the top of it into the hole and I have just barely enough room to get the rivet gun in there and install the rivets.

IMG_7564.jpeg

And my hands just barely have enough room to get the high temp duct tape over it.

IMG_7567.jpeg
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Well, this morning, before I got started, I realized that I made a mistake. For whatever reason I decided to check and see what the max temp of the aluminum tape was and found out it’s 280 degrees. Since the oven will regularly run at 400,
It’s not going to work. So first thing. I spent a couple hours back tracking enough to remove all the tape. Then I got out the refactory cement I purchased for fixing my high temp silicone mistake on the big oven. Took the lid off and it was the consistency of dry clay.

IMG_7572.jpeg

I spent the next couple hours working the cement until I had it back to the correct consistency. What a waste of time.

IMG_7573.jpeg

Gave the upper duct a coat

IMG_7575.jpeg

When it dries it will be hard and completely cured. I was surprised at how easy it filled voids…but it’s ugly.

IMG_7574.jpeg

While they’re drying, i focused on getting the top in place so I can get a final measurement on length for the rear duct. Steel top will get hot with the oven air traveling thru the fan housing that’s bolted to it. In order to keep the heat away from the wood I’m installing an 1/8” high temp silicone sheet between it and the steel top. First trimmed it to match with a razor blade.

IMG_7568.jpeg

Now to insulate around the duct that goes up thru the cavity. I’ll use some left over 12” parts I didn’t end up using on the big oven.

IMG_7570.jpeg

Filled it with 2000 degree insulation.

IMG_7577.jpeg

And sealed it up.

IMG_7578.jpeg

Then sealed up the 4” duct that connects the inside to the top.

IMG_7579.jpeg

I’ll use some silicone to seal the blower to the duct flange so I trimmed a piece to match the profile of the blower cage.

IMG_7580.jpeg
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Used a leather punch to make the bolt holes

IMG_7582.jpeg

With the blower motor bolted in place, this is the view from the inside of the oven.

IMG_7584.jpeg

The ducts will get equally hot so I need to make a heat shield for them as well.

IMG_7585.jpeg

And now I can set everything in place to get a final measurement for the rear duct.

IMG_7587.jpeg

I’m long by about 7/16”

IMG_7588.jpeg

With the upper duct in place I can now seal up the rear.

IMG_7591.jpeg

Was able to get all the rivets in the inside but the side of the cabinet was blocking the other side. I decided that I’d screw my track to the side of the cabinet and cut an access panel with my track saw.

IMG_7592.jpeg

Had a really hard time hacking the cabinet but there was no other easier way.

IMG_7593.jpeg

Finalized up all the rivets and reattached the side. Doesn’t look terrible.

IMG_7595.jpeg

Now on to insulation. Each side of the duct will have 4” wide by 4” deep 2000 degree insulation.

IMG_7596.jpeg
 
Last edited:
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
One layer of insulation goes over the duct and then I install the cover panel

IMG_7597.jpeg

Did the same for the lower half. Finished much nicer than i had anticipated.

IMG_7599.jpeg

Time now to test the control panel. This will be the first time powering it up. So far so good.

IMG_7600.jpeg

Light works great and so did the fan.

IMG_7602.jpeg

And turned on the elements. It heated up extremely quickly which is good. At full temp the back steel covers over the ducts were cold. The upper duct got hot because it’s not yet insulated. Ill save that for another day. I’d call this one a success.

IMG_7610.jpeg
 
Last edited:
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Nothing super fancy tonight, decided to cut in one of the wall panels that has to go around an outlet and conduit. Fiddle-fitting took me about an hour.

IMG_7624.jpeg

Ultimately I’ll cut a surround to hide the imperfections but that’ll be for another day. I had two more to cut in and the main wall in the shop will be ready for powder coating (which was what I needed the triple oven working for in lieu of the big oven being done). Always complicated it seems.

IMG_7625.jpeg
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Wrapped up the triple oven upgrade. Made a diffuser for the bottom of the oven to try to help more evenly distribute the return duct air. The air returns on the back left corner so there’s less holes there (1:3) then blends into 2:1, and finally 1:1.

IMG_7647.jpeg

the rear element was gave too much direct heat to parts so I added that is designed to allow the convection fans to pull air from the oven chamber and mix it with air behind it in the cavity.

IMG_7648.jpeg

I made it in two pieces to make it easier to brake and install.

IMG_7649.jpeg

Install wasn’t too bad. Stand offs got riveted to the back wall of the oven and then the were riveted to the stand-offs. The stand offs allow the metal to move a bit as it heats and cools. I heated the oven five times to 400 letting it sit at 400 for 20 minutes and then let it cool to burn off any of the oils and other contaminates.

IMG_7652.jpeg

Testing on a real part, why not. This is a floating nightstand mount.

IMG_7656.jpeg

The interior of then oven is much more consistent temp-wise, the coating flowed out at almost the same time top and bottom (top being just a little behind). So much better than before.

IMG_7658.jpeg

Part turned out nice.

IMG_7654.jpeg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Not much of an update fab-wise this last weekend. I more or less spent most of it powder coating the drawer pulls in the shop and didn’t get half done. The process is slow - remove, sand blast, coat, and reinstall.

IMG_7663.jpeg

The oven is working extremely well, maybe better than I’d hoped. Previously the temp inconsistency from top to bottom was significant. Now the part flashes/gels at about the same time. Even better, the temp sensor is reading almost the same as the part. I’ve found that setting the temp to the desired is nearly spot on.

IMG_7664.jpeg

Once the oven is at temp, it recovers nicely as well. The extra 14ga metal shields and diffusers internally help considerably in that regard. I completed 26 pulls about 3 at a time and have 50-ish to go.

IMG_7666.jpeg

The color is slightly darker than the pulls when raw steel and give a nice preview of what the wall panels will look like when coated as well.

IMG_7665.jpeg
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Lovely. Not to tell you your business, but I've had a lot of luck preheating my parts before shooting and then final cooking. Are you doing the same, or just sticking the cold painted parts in?
Hot flocking (spraying parts hot vs cold) works but it takes some skill to not over or under coat a part. Too much and the coating can sag or run. Too little and you might not notice until it’s cured. I typically only hot flock when I’m having challenges getting into tight spots, when I want a slight thicker coat, or when a second or clear coat won’t adhere normally.

I’m very impressed when someone on YouTube can hot flock a wheel and get it to turn out. I don’t have the confidence to try.
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
More progress last night. I had a pile of drawer pulls that will wrap up both the shop and garage cabinet drawers I decided to start in on..

IMG_7669.jpeg

Test bend the first part to adjust the over/under bend and I’m off to the races.

IMG_7672.jpeg

The first few I check

IMG_7670.jpeg

Then I get after it. All in all I formed about 32 I think.

IMG_7675.jpeg

From there they get loaded into the blast cabinet and I’m back to cycling thru the I’ve and into the drawers.

IMG_7676.jpeg

This process will likely keep me busy for the remainder of the evenings this week. Not super interesting really, good time to think and plan other projects. 😜

IMG_7677.jpeg
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Matt! The router brackets arrived safely yesterday afternoon and I have to say, the color is awesome! Mounted two so far and will get after the other two later this week!

The drawer pulls look fantastic, as everything you do typically does!

Cheers,
Fantastic, glad they’ll be put to use. Post up some pics when you get everything in its place!

Matt
 
Last edited:
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Last night I kinda took the night off but before I did I swapped out the computer and monitor cables on my Plasma table pedestal computer with longer ones and wrapped all cables in a Tig lead cover to protect it from the plasma sparks. In up coming months I’ll be organizing all the electrical and table coolant system under the plasma and more neatly run it between the pedestal and table then. For now it’s protected. The perspective in the pic makes it seem like it’s still down in the danger zone but it’s not.. 🤓

IMG_7541.jpeg
 
Last edited:
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Last night I continued to blast and coat drawer pulls. Counter see $hit so I decided it was time to replace the glass protector with a new one. Forgot how the visibility could be

IMG_7682.jpeg

In between batches I prepped for the beginning of a new project that starts today. Bet ya can’t guess what it’ll be…

IMG_7685.jpeg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom