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Lincoln Invertec V275-s

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Rory Bellows

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..........................................................................

IT LIVES!!!

frankenstein-it-lives.jpg


I read the manual and did as you said, and I have arc and a bead and penetration!!!!!!!

Bill

That is awesome! Good deal! Now fix some stuff or build a welding table. Now you have to find a foot pedal and tig torch.
 
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bczygan

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I finally told my wife Julie about my midnight foray to the credit union, and then downriver to purchase this machine, while she slept.

She gave me a YOU ****!

Has she been listening to me talk about GJ too much?

Bill
 
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bczygan

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Now she wants me to get a torch, foot pedal and gas for TIG. Plus hook up a proper circuit and install the right power cord!

I like it when she adds things like this to my to do list!

So what torch and pedal?

Bill
 

dr_clyde

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Your LWS should be able to get you the correct lincoln pedal, I believe it is the K870. Foot pedals are very expensive, like, 3-500 dollars.

As far as torch, I don't know if that machine has a gas solenoid or not. My invertec is a different model and does not.

If it doesn't, you will want a torch with a gas valve.

Either way, you will want a #17 size air cooled torch to start. Get a CK or WeldTec. You will want the DINSE adapter that fits your machine and with the hole in it for the gas to pass through.

Your LWS can guide you.
 

dr_clyde

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That welder looks like it has touch start, an improved version of scratch start. You don't need a foot pedal to weld with it, you just set the amperage on the panel and it will stay at that amps.
 

hefnerconstructionlc

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I have that welder. As Doc says, you will need a 17 torch preferably a CK flex, with a gas valve. It does not have the gas solenoid. The pedal is your choice. I would probably try without and see if you even like tig before investing in a pedal. To be honest this welder makes a better stick welder than a tig welder in my opinion. At any rate it is well worth the $100 you spent on it. If it works and you don't like or use, you can sell it for more than you paid any day of the week. I built this pergola for a customer with it a few months ago.
 

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bczygan

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I just learned about flashing myself!

Mistakenly set the helmet to OFF and struck an arc.

When it didn't darken I reset it to OFF a second time and ran a bead!!!

I'm going to put a sticky note in the helmet to remind myself.

How long does it take to get the sand in the eyes feeling?

Bill
 

sberry

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The hood has UVglass in it and most any kind of glad gives enough filter for that limited exposure. I got it once, don't think I had safety glasses on and was working in stainless corner, cramped in, was hour or more.
 

MoonRise

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The sand-in-the-eyes feeling is from sunburning your corneas (from the UV from the arc).

As sberry said, if you had the welding helmet on your head then the lens will shield you from the UV whether or not the lens darkens or not.

The intense bright light is still not good for your eyes (retinal damage) but your corneas were protected.

Check list:

- helmet ON and set for the desired mode/settings

- shielding gas turned ON

- machine turned ON

- work lead (aka 'ground' clamp) attached to workpiece

- start welding

- when done welding, remember to shut OFF the shielding gas
 

Jason280

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Great, glad to hear you have it figured out!

You don't have to have the foot pedal, but it is helpful. You will need a TIG torch with some kind of push button start, otherwise you can't initiate an arc. I have mine wired into the BUS connector on the front, you have to connect it to two of the pins. I'll post a pic and show you how mine is set up, I still use mine without a pedal occasionally, but you can find them on eBay occasionally for a decent price.

In fact, here is one for $100...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-pin-TIG-...l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xlincoln+tig+pedal.TRS0

You'll also need a manual gas valve, they don't have a gas shut off solenoid. You can get torches with a valve on the handle body, or you can simply run one inline with the gas tubing.
 
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bczygan

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Great, glad to hear you have it figured out!

You don't have to have the foot pedal, but it is helpful. You will need a TIG torch with some kind of push button start, otherwise you can't initiate an arc. I have mine wired into the BUS connector on the front, you have to connect it to two of the pins. I'll post a pic and show you how mine is set up, I still use mine without a pedal occasionally, but you can find them on eBay occasionally for a decent price.

In fact, here is one for $100...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-pin-TIG-...l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xlincoln+tig+pedal.TRS0

You'll also need a manual gas valve, they don't have a gas shut off solenoid. You can get torches with a valve on the handle body, or you can simply run one inline with the gas tubing.

Is that the best foot pedal for this welder?

Bill
 
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bczygan

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Great, glad to hear you have it figured out!

You don't have to have the foot pedal, but it is helpful. You will need a TIG torch with some kind of push button start, otherwise you can't initiate an arc. I have mine wired into the BUS connector on the front, you have to connect it to two of the pins. I'll post a pic and show you how mine is set up, I still use mine without a pedal occasionally, but you can find them on eBay occasionally for a decent price.

In fact, here is one for $100...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-pin-TIG-...l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xlincoln+tig+pedal.TRS0

You'll also need a manual gas valve, they don't have a gas shut off solenoid. You can get torches with a valve on the handle body, or you can simply run one inline with the gas tubing.

Thank you! I just ordered it! It's a returned item to Lincoln that SSC makes.

And thanks for dressing up my thread with your avatar. There is something compelling about it, I just can't put my finger on it, or wrap my head around it....

Bill
 

sberry

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It is only good if you have a need for it. You have a little wire welder, this will do all the work you can do in a driveway. There is nothing wrong with this machine but its like the rest of them, sell it in a different Clist area. Youi are not a welding contractor in process piping or working on ship decks which is pretty much what it is for.
No matter how cheap it just becomes a collection, now adding more to it already with no possible return. I been at this a long time, have other machines from and for construction,,,, what I really use is another matter , a small wire welder and a simple DC buzzer. My TIG hasn't been on for 20+ years and I know how to use it. Been 10 years since I used a stick rod bigger than 1/8 and,,,, I do this work all the time.
List that for 600 in Traverse or on the other side of the state and another C to ship it. Good for a farmer in some cases, great for someone owns excavating or real welding company. Be great for an Ironwworking contractor.
 
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bczygan

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Now for the torch.

Why a 17 size (125A) and not bigger? Is most TIG work done below 125A? Are the higher amp too hot to hold in an air cooled? Does a smaller torch get in places better?

Who makes a good torch and lines?

Next will be questions about tungsten and consumables, gas and tank.
 
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bczygan

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It is only good if you have a need for it. You have a little wire welder, this will do all the work you can do in a driveway. There is nothing wrong with this machine but its like the rest of them, sell it in a different Clist area. Youi are not a welding contractor in process piping or working on ship decks which is pretty much what it is for.
No matter how cheap it just becomes a collection, now adding more to it already with no possible return. I been at this a long time, have other machines from and for construction,,,, what I really use is another matter , a small wire welder and a simple DC buzzer. My TIG hasn't been on for 20+ years and I know how to use it. Been 10 years since I used a stick rod bigger than 1/8 and,,,, I do this work all the time.
List that for 600 in Traverse or on the other side of the state and another C to ship it. Good for a farmer in some cases, great for someone owns excavating or real welding company. Be great for an Ironwworking contractor.

All true sberry.

But I'm having fun. Will start taking welding courses in the fall at the local community college.

I can always sell at a profit later. Might even repaint it and put new decals on to get a better price. Meanwhile it's mine to play with and learn on. And I would like to do some structural steel work and art steel.

Can this be used for TIG work on auto body stuff? I'm going to be taking a course in that as well.

We were up in Ludington for 10 days over the 4th of July week. Will be coming back up end of August.

Bill
 
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Jason280

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Now for the torch.

Why a 17 size (125A) and not bigger? Is most TIG work done below 125A? Are the higher amp too hot to hold in an air cooled? Does a smaller torch get in places better?

Who makes a good torch and lines?

Next will be questions about tungsten and consumables, gas and tank.

Best bet is a HF TIG torch, it comes with just about everything you need....

https://www.harborfreight.com/150a-tig-torch-63785.html

I'm using one now with a Miller 215, and it works great. You will still need a bottle or argon shield gas and regulator, the shield gas will be the largest expense. You will still need tungsten and collets, but the HF kit comes with a few.

TIG welding steel is a lot of fun, and while you likely won't need it much, its still a good skill to have.
 
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MJD1

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CK is about the best for tig torches. I would go with a flexhead 17 series. Most are rated for 150 amps. On heavier thickness metal, stick is faster and with the right electrode, will give either deep penatration or a high deposition, high strength weld. 3/32, 1/8 and 5/32" 7018 for high strength and 3/32 or 1/8" 6010 or 6011 will give deep penatration and work good with paint and rust. The larger air cooled torches don't really give you a lot more amp capacity, you need water cooled for that. Aluminum is where you will need the higher amp capacity, since it's a heat sink.
 
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bczygan

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So is this a pretty good TIG machine for steel?

Reason I ask, is I'll be into this for about $700 total once it's set up for TIG.

Dinse adapter 60
Torch and cable 100
Regulator 30
Tank and gas 250
Consumables 30
Tungsten feed 15
Welder 100 Have
Pedal 120 Have


Bill
 
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dr_clyde

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I'll be honest Bill, that's not a great welder to learn TIG on. It's designed for pipe welders who need to TIG in a root pass then stick weld the cover passes.

It has no high frequency, no gas solenoid, and no AC.

While it's possible to TIG steel with this machine, it's a steeper learning curve than one with at least HF and a gas solenoid.

Unfortunately a decent TIG rig will set you back around 800-1000.
 

trackwelder

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I'll be honest Bill, that's not a great welder to learn TIG on. It's designed for pipe welders who need to TIG in a root pass then stick weld the cover passes.

It has no high frequency, no gas solenoid, and no AC.

While it's possible to TIG steel with this machine, it's a steeper learning curve than one with at least HF and a gas solenoid.

Unfortunately a decent TIG rig will set you back around 800-1000.

Spot on. I wouldn’t invest any cash into trying to tig with it. Save your cash for the right machine
 

sberry

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I lived in the burbs a while. I could take care of everything I needed with a handful of tools. I would have the oil changed and a muffler fixed at a local Pop type mechanic place and fix a brake in the yard when I had to, change a belt or a bulb when needed. Even in a home hobby garage I could get by with a small tool box, maybe small torch and wire welder if I wanted to do that sort of thing.
I wouldn't have all this **** unless I needed it and nothing takes the fun out of it all like making it a financial burden. Tossing a grand at that pos will make it obvious in short order. Take the easy way once in a while, get the little feeder working and learn that. It does "structural " work too. That only means its not a pipe or a skin, doesn't have anything to do with the type of machine.
While there are some specialists that need steel tig most real body work is done small mig. It wouldn't even occur to me to use anything else especially a process as time consuming and expensive as tig and that wouldn't be the machine. Its the reason it sold cheap. As the dr pointed out with a bit more grace than I have is it lacks features a hobby crowd wants and is designed for professionals in a professional environment.
Some aged career guys can use the thing and do it but good chance you cant even see well enough to do that work. Let alone the coordination that comes from constant practice. Best I ever see it were really young and relatively young guys, some only knew that one thing, there are exceptions but again,,,,, career welders for the most part.
 

sberry

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That is a good machine,,,, for ship building, refinery construction, power plants. Not for art work, auto body and doddering around in the garage.
 
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bczygan

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I lived in the burbs a while. I could take care of everything I needed with a handful of tools. I would have the oil changed and a muffler fixed at a local Pop type mechanic place and fix a brake in the yard when I had to, change a belt or a bulb when needed. Even in a home hobby garage I could get by with a small tool box, maybe small torch and wire welder if I wanted to do that sort of thing.
I wouldn't have all this **** unless I needed it and nothing takes the fun out of it all like making it a financial burden. Tossing a grand at that pos will make it obvious in short order. Take the easy way once in a while, get the little feeder working and learn that. It does "structural " work too. That only means its not a pipe or a skin, doesn't have anything to do with the type of machine.
While there are some specialists that need steel tig most real body work is done small mig. It wouldn't even occur to me to use anything else especially a process as time consuming and expensive as tig and that wouldn't be the machine. Its the reason it sold cheap. As the dr pointed out with a bit more grace than I have is it lacks features a hobby crowd wants and is designed for professionals in a professional environment.
Some aged career guys can use the thing and do it but good chance you cant even see well enough to do that work. Let alone the coordination that comes from constant practice. Best I ever see it were really young and relatively young guys, some only knew that one thing, there are exceptions but again,,,,, career welders for the most part.

sberry,
Thank you for your information. I will take it to heart and just use this as a stick machine. I'm told it is a great stick welder, is that right?

And I will get back to the little 120V MIG soon too.

I understand your focus on having only what you need. I don't really need a welder of any kind. And I could just have my oil changed anywhere, instead of doing it myself as I did yesterday. It sure would be a lot easier, and not much more expensive. Put new shocks on the van Saturday. Took a lot longer than the shop.

But I had fun even though it wasn't easy as pie. Both the shocks and the oil change. They both had some difficulties.

For me, it isn't about need or efficiency or even cost. I'm just having a little fun. Certainly not going to try to make any money with any of it. May not even build or make many or any useful things. I just want to stick some metal things together and try different kinds of welding out.

Bill
 

sberry

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I agree with diy, I think you should have fun. Keeping it affordable, practical will be way more fun. The object is to do work most of the time rather than collect tools, they are means to an end. I got it cause there is something i want or need to do,,, I have a lawn mower, not cause I want a mower but to cut the grass.
I want the welder to fix the mower or to be able to charge for work.
 
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bczygan

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I will respond about my large collection of tools.

Even with as many as I have, I find the need for certain tools. Doing the shocks, I needed a 1/2" drive deep impact socket in both 13 and 18MM. The Milwaukee 1/2" Impact make things real easy, even if it could have been done with the HF air impact. Plus a 13MM combination wrench, a small pry bar, and a jack to compress them.

The oil change needed a vise grip to get the screwed up drain plug off.

I like having whatever is needed, on hand.

Bill
 
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bczygan

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One nice thing about the impact, is I didn't even need to pre-soak the nuts and bolts with a penetrating fluid. Just hammered them off in a few seconds. And no compressor and air hose to hook up.

Still had to jack up the van, use jack stands and lay under it on cardboard.

Sure would like a lift, but garage is too small for a car, even if it was empty.

At least I get to work in the driveway, instead of the street.

Bill
 

sberry

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Replacing shocks is a good job, good to save some money. You have a torch?
I am not advocating doing without tools you need, quite the opposite. Get what you need and only speculate some, keep the cash in reserve so you can get something when you have to.
 
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bczygan

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Replacing shocks is a good job, good to save some money. You have a torch?
I am not advocating doing without tools you need, quite the opposite. Get what you need and only speculate some, keep the cash in reserve so you can get something when you have to.

I do have a torch and tanks and cart. Got to dig it out. I've never used it.

That IS a problem for me.

I have most all the tools I need, but getting them organized is another matter. I just came in from the garage. It's been crammed with stuff I packed in there last fall with winter coming on. Now much of it needs to come out so I can get to what I need to.

More than half the time needed to do a job, is spent looking for the tools. That was especially true last weekend.

The jack and jack stands were in the other Astro Van in the back yard (Handle in the garage).
The oil drain pan was in the automotive shed, as was the oil and window washer fluid.

Couldn't find the extra oil filter I had, so had to go get one and another trip for a drain plug.

Rubber hammer was in the drawer of the roller with it's buddy's, so that helped, but big screwdriver/pry bar was just in a pile.

Used some of the new Tekton combo wrenches I just got, but had to hunt down the torque wrench, and the impact was in the kitchen (Of course!).

Never did find the 1/2" impact sockets, so used 3/8 chrome with a reducer!

I do see that having less stuff, but just the right stuff, would make organizing and finding what I need for a job, much easier and quicker.

In the morning I will be out there again, pulling stuff out and organizing the remainder.

Bill
 

sberry

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That is exactly my point, got tools you can use and don't, why keep shoving more **** in a box especially when it costs more money to collect it all. Already have another stick machine that isn't used. A torch is almost an essential in our part of the world for basic auto repair. Its just scrap if it isn't hooked up, usable and ready to go.
 
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bczygan

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That is exactly my point, got tools you can use and don't, why keep shoving more **** in a box especially when it costs more money to collect it all. Already have another stick machine that isn't used. A torch is almost an essential in our part of the world for basic auto repair. Its just scrap if it isn't hooked up, usable and ready to go.

sberry,
I'm going to see if I can make that happen!

To be continued.......

Bill
 
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bczygan

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sberry,
I'm going to see if I can make that happen!

To be continued.......

Bill

Just made a list of everything, most of which is in the garage.

Separated it into what goes where:

Garage:
Horizontal Bandsaw
Disc Sander
Belt Sander
Lathe
Bridgeport
Drill Press Metal
Surface Grinder
Vise
Grinders 2
Buffer
MIG Welder
Stick Welder
Roller
Service Cart
Jack
Jack Stands
Creeper
Rolling Stool

Basement:
Electrical
Plumbing

Metal Shed:
Shear
Box and Pan Break
Benders
Metal Roller
Arbor Press
H Press
Vertical Bandsaw Metal

Porch:
Compressor
Cooler
Parts Washer
Blast Cabinet

Carpentry Shed:
Drill Press Wood
Vertical Bandsaw Wood
Jointer
Planer
Table Saw
Router Table
Miter Saw

Bill
 

Jason280

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Bill,

Maybe I am going against the grain, but I believe the Invertec is a great machine to learn TIG welding steel on. Not having AC is only an issue if you want to weld aluminum, otherwise steel and stainless will be fine. I learned on my V-250S, and didn't have the benefit of a foot pedal. I can agree not having high frequency start adds some difficulty, but learning lift start is really no harder than learning to strike an arc with a stick electrode. Once you get the feel for it, it becomes almost second nature. As far as not having a gas solenoid, its more of an inconvenience than anything else.....you still get the pre and post flow, and while you may waste more gas, it will ultimately be very little as you can simply shut it off at the torch handle.

Here's the real question....do you really need a TIG machine? If not, then there is no reason to spend money on this one (or any other for that matter). On the other hand, if you are serious about learning and do have a need for the skill, I say go for it. Even if down the road you decide you need a TIG with more bells and whistles, you can use the majority of the equipment you buy on the next machine.

Just understand that TIG welding steel is very limited, slow and tedious, and has a much higher learning curve than MIG or stick. That being said, it can be a very rewarding endeavor, but it isn't for everyone.
 
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