FS Curtis Air Compressor
Finally got my new air compressor in a few months back and now I have had time to get the wiring and plumbing done to be able to use it. This is replacing a 20 gallon CH oil less compressor that has been supporting my needs since 1999. I was bad about draining the tank but it still appears to be fine. We don't actually get a lot of moisture up here (roughly 60% humidity).
So I broke down and went in with my neighbor for two 7.5 hp 80 gallon FS Curtis Air Compressors. Shipping was not to bad. Approx. $350 to ship each to my door.
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I ran 55' of 6:3 wire to a the other side of the shop for a 100 amp sub-panel. I am using a 60 amp breaker for this size of wire. I also wired three other outlets. One 20 amp receptacle next to the air compressor plug for cooling fans and auto drains. One 40 amp plug for the air compressor, another 40 amp plug for my welder, and one 30 amp plug for the new to me Delta drill press. I ran a Lutron 60 amp light switch to be able to turn off the compressor when needed instead of using the breaker.
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I still need to find a toggle switch cover that matches the rest of the plug covers.
The compressor did not come with a cooler so I did some research and made my own set up. I purchased a Hayden 1260 cooler that has 3/4" inlet and outlet female npt fittings. These coolers work great. They are designed to create a venturi effect for the air flow to help cool it down when it leaves the cooler with out any additional cooling fans.
I did opt to keep the same size line that the compressor came with (1" copper), but went with stainless .065 wall tubing.
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I opted to use two additional cooling fans to help cool the air just that much before it enters the main tank. The fans are 12v 10" Upgr8
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These fans will move some air and are very quiet. Not that you can hear them when the compressor is on. I need to wire them up so when the compressor starts up the fans turn on.
I then bent some 1" stainless tubing to go to the coalescent filter. Just before that I relocated the pressure switch to a Swagelok cap. I drill and tapped the cap for a 1/4" fitting to route to the switch.
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The 1/4" stainless line going to the pressure switch.
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I also use anti seize on all my ferrels for the Swagelok connections. Some of these swagelok fittings are used from Ebay so they have lost there silver thread lube but I also found that the anti seize will also aid in a very good tight seal for air.
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I am using a Wilkerson WSA-08-000 Coalescent filter with 1" inlet and outlet. The pressure rating is 300 psi and 150 deg temp.
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I am using a 1" Swagelok SS-CHS16-1/3 Check Valve since I do not want to loose all my air to the main tank which then goes to a 1" Wilkerson Dial Air Regulator R31-08-000. I like this smaller non rising stem regulator versus the others in that it fits in this spot just right.
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Now just after the regulator I am still using the existing knock out drum I have been using for awhile now. Some call it the Franzinator (spelling), but they are simply a knock out drum, which knocks out liquids after cooling has taken place. This tank is also stainless so moisture build up should take place in the coalescent filter and then here before it enters the main tank.
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Then it takes off from the tank to a 3/4" 1/4 turn block valve, then to a 3/4" stainless braided 4' long hose to the main line.
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