LM8500 Wall Controller Failure.

[Radix2]

Gone are the days when you could control your garage door opener with a doorbell button.

I have 3 8500s...when I took off the controllers to do drywall, I found that the doors operate just fine by touching the two control wires together.

So you can in fact control your door with a doorbell button if you want. Of course all the fancy stuff won't be available, but I am not sure if much of it is worth it anyway.

Anyone else get the feeling that the remote lights have a mind of their own? The "light" buttons are particularly flaky imo.

So for anyone waiting on a failed controller, you can remove it and still have a functions door.

 

[58Yeoman]

My less than $200 Chamberlain and Sears openers are working just fine for me. Really? Internet options for opening your doors? Definitely first world problems.

 

[manwithtools]

Anyone else get the feeling that the remote lights have a mind of their own? The "light" buttons are particularly flaky imo.

Yep, I have three as well. Sometimes the motion sensors work - and work really good - meaning sensitive. Other times I can walk right in front of it and it does not detect me. Other times the lights stay on all night for no apparent reason.

 

[Dakota00]

Just an update... The capacitors I ordered came in yesterday, I soldered them in. Went to hook up the controller and the garage door went up by itself. So I'm still experiencing a grounding out issue. I don't know what else could be causing the issue. I'm done with this, I have no choice but to wait on the new controller that's coming.

Once it shows up, I'll update if the same capacitors are still being used.

 

[Dakota00]

So, new controller finally showed up today after a 2 week wait. Removed the circuit board to see the caps, new look but the same manufacturer. Hopefully this one will last.

 

[PoorOwner]

Can you use the LCD door switch (with clock and temperature) with the LM8500? If those don't have problems just get those they are upgrade in every way..

 

[wssix99]

So, new controller finally showed up today after a 2 week wait. Removed the circuit board to see the caps, new look but the same manufacturer. Hopefully this one will last.

From my research, this is the more current packaging.

Does the new control have a "version number" or anything like that on the back or on a label?

 

[Dakota00]

From my research, this is the more current packaging.

Does the new control have a "version number" or anything like that on the back or on a label?

It has a date marking on the backing plate 07/17, it's still warm from being made. Here's a couple of pics of the full board. Maybe you are able to break down some of these numbers. I'm guessing the 1715 means 2017 and the 15 week?

 

[SILVERPLATE]

I have a wall controller that keeps beeping, any ideas why. Thanks

 

[BrianS]

Crazy, I just had the same failure with my 888LM controller, door randomly going up and down. Called Liftmaster and they are shipping a new one to me free of charge. Mine had a date of 04/13 on the back, but I think I installed it in 07/14, so exactly 3 years ago.

Not getting a warm fuzzy over all these failures.

 

[Dakota00]

Crazy, I just had the same failure with my 888LM controller, door randomly going up and down. Called Liftmaster and they are shipping a new one to me free of charge. Mine had a date of 04/13 on the back, but I think I installed it in 07/14, so exactly 3 years ago.

Not getting a warm fuzzy over all these failures.

My original controller was dated 02/14. That's almost a full year production run between our units. I'll be contacting Liftmaster again in a few months for another controller to have as a back up.

 

[ducksface]

Mine has not been a problem for a month now.
Mine sort of fixed itself.

 

[2level]

My 888LM wall control failed the other day. Mfg. date 10/13, installed 2014. The light/motion detector failed first; within the 1st year it occasionally defaulted to the 'light stays on' mode, then 'occasionally' became regularly. At about the 3 1/2 year mark, the wall controller went completely dead, defaulting to door-open position! This is in a fairly mild temperature enviroment (55-80*f) attached garage. Does this wall controller need a built-in computer-style fan?!

What concerns me, besides the door-open default, is that the Liftmaster service dept. people are telling me that they won't warranty the defective controllers once the 5 year mark has passed. BS.

 

[Dakota00]

My 888LM wall control failed the other day. Mfg. date 10/13, installed 2014. The light/motion detector failed first; within the 1st year it occasionally defaulted to the 'light stays on' mode, then 'occasionally' became regularly.

Funny you mentioned that. I too was experiencing random light on issue, this was going on for over a year.

You're still under the 5 year mark for your warranty, hopefully these new controllers have been improved.

 

[ben5243]

Hey guys, I just read through this thread. I don't actually own a LM 8500 yet, but I plan to purchase one in the next week or two and this has me worried.

Are all of you having failures on the 888LM? Is anyone with a 880LM affected? (the one with the LCD and clock).

I have some experience with embedded system design and have some guesses as to why these are failing (if anyone is interested enough to keep reading...)
I'm making a LOT of assumptions that I could verify once I purchase my own, but here's what I think is happening:
These units use 2 wires for power and communication. I don't see any magnetics on the board (those PCB pictures are insanely helpful, thank you!) which is unfortunate because I thought they were doing something like PoE (power over ethernet) where they decouple the AC and DC signals with a tiny transformer inside the RJ45 jacks.
My best guess is the opener is charging up those 2.7V, 1F capacitors periodically with a DC voltage, then using the wires for communication. Basically a time share on those 2 wires (a fraction of a second for power, then a fraction of a second for data).

This is not a great use for those capacitors and will decrease their life span by cycling them so much. It probably explains the fairly consistent 3 year lifespan as well. When they fail, they are probably shorting internally causing a "closed contact" signal between the 2 wires going to the opener. This probably makes the opener think a doorbell style button is pressed, and causes the door to cycle.

A REALLY bad design on Liftmaster's part seeing as the failure mode is to open people's garages. If the controller is communicating with the opener, the opener should NOT recognize "closed contact" signals.
If you power up the opener and there is no controller connected, the opener should then and ONLY then accept "closed contact" signals.

For those of you that have controllers fail and are waiting for a replacement, you can just install a cheapo doorbell from your local store and it should work.

 

[engineer2]

I have an ancient LiftMaster chain drive that recently failed. The motor has bushings, not bearings. I guess bushings are acceptable for intermittent use motors. The top bushing came out of the motor end-housing and slipped inside the motor, stalling it. No harm to the bushing. It might good to oil the bushings every 5 years or so. I also added a short metal sleeve on the motor shaft and staked the bushing in place to keep it from falling out in the future.

 

[Dakota00]

For those of you that have controllers fail and are waiting for a replacement, you can just install a cheapo doorbell from your local store and it should work.

That's how I was operating my opener until the replacement came in. My biggest issue with a dead wall controller the remote(s) inside the vehicle are rendered utterly useless. This is a huge fail in my books! So you have no choice but to have a LiftMaster wall controller with the 8500.

Oh and the 880LM is also having the same problem, lifespan is 2-3yrs from what I've been reading on the LiftMaster forum.

 

[Weslsew]

Hey guys, I just read through this thread. I don't actually own a LM 8500 yet, but I plan to purchase one in the next week or two and this has me worried.

Are all of you having failures on the 888LM? Is anyone with a 880LM affected? (the one with the LCD and clock).

I have some experience with embedded system design and have some guesses as to why these are failing (if anyone is interested enough to keep reading...)
I'm making a LOT of assumptions that I could verify once I purchase my own, but here's what I think is happening:
These units use 2 wires for power and communication. I don't see any magnetics on the board (those PCB pictures are insanely helpful, thank you!) which is unfortunate because I thought they were doing something like PoE (power over ethernet) where they decouple the AC and DC signals with a tiny transformer inside the RJ45 jacks.
My best guess is the opener is charging up those 2.7V, 1F capacitors periodically with a DC voltage, then using the wires for communication. Basically a time share on those 2 wires (a fraction of a second for power, then a fraction of a second for data).

This is not a great use for those capacitors and will decrease their life span by cycling them so much. It probably explains the fairly consistent 3 year lifespan as well. When they fail, they are probably shorting internally causing a "closed contact" signal between the 2 wires going to the opener. This probably makes the opener think a doorbell style button is pressed, and causes the door to cycle.

A REALLY bad design on Liftmaster's part seeing as the failure mode is to open people's garages. If the controller is communicating with the opener, the opener should NOT recognize "closed contact" signals.
If you power up the opener and there is no controller connected, the opener should then and ONLY then accept "closed contact" signals.

For those of you that have controllers fail and are waiting for a replacement, you can just install a cheapo doorbell from your local store and it should work.

I think you're dead on. When you first plug in the opener with the 888lm connected, it takes a few minutes for "charging" before it's ready to work. Mine has just started leaving the light on all night randomly, which is unacceptable as it illuminates my garage like a storefront at night for anyone passing by to peek in.

 

[wssix99]

My best guess is the opener is charging up those 2.7V, 1F capacitors periodically with a DC voltage, then using the wires for communication. Basically a time share on those 2 wires (a fraction of a second for power, then a fraction of a second for data).

I think you're dead on. When you first plug in the opener with the 888lm connected, it takes a few minutes for "charging" before it's ready to work. Mine has just started leaving the light on all night randomly, which is unacceptable as it illuminates my garage like a storefront at night for anyone passing by to peek in.

Great comments and insight! This would definitely fit the patterns illustrated here.

If true, this would be very disturbing. An engineer who would design such a thing (to quickly burn through capacitor cycles, which should last a lifetime) should be dealt with harshly.

 

[2level]

My biggest issue with a dead wall controller the remote(s) inside the vehicle are rendered utterly useless. This is a huge fail in my books!

I haven't decided if my biggest issue with a dead wall control is the default-to-open-door mode, the rendered useless remotes, or the fact that a customer service rep. indicated that LiftMaster hasn't redesigned the wall control unit, and that they will not replace it for free once the opener is 5 years old.

Paying $35-$40 to replace a controller every 3 yrs. is not acceptable, but neither is the security problem created by an open garage door, or not being able to use a car remote with a garage door opener. All those things ****. And lets not forget about the remote/interior light that in many cases malfunctions within the first year.

I hope LiftMaster puts out a statement, and redesigns the wall control unit, very soon .

 

[2level]

Perhaps a redesign of both the wall unit and the opener are required to fix these issues?

 

[Weslsew]

Is the wall unit the receiver for the remotes? Isn't there an antenna hanging out of the opener itself?

 

[kwschumm]

Great comments and insight! This would definitely fit the patterns illustrated here.

If true, this would be very disturbing. An engineer who would design such a thing (to quickly burn through capacitor cycles, which should last a lifetime) should be dealt with harshly.

It's entirely possible the engineer wasn't up to the job.

It's also entirely possible the engineer designed a system that is easier to install with less components which earned him an atta-boy. Value engineering, it's what companies want. They want to save, quite literally, every penny. If the company emphasized reliability the outcome may have been different.

What isn't in doubt is LiftMaster's lack of commitment to improve it. This is totally on them, and gives us an indication of what they are all about.

 

[wssix99]

Is the wall unit the receiver for the remotes? Isn't there an antenna hanging out of the opener itself?

No. The control unit is the receiver for the remotes and the transmitter for the lights.

It's also entirely possible the engineer designed a system that is easier to install with less components which earned him an atta-boy.

Class Actions can take those atta-boy's away!!!

 

[Dakota00]

Class Actions can take those atta-boy's away!!!

I'm definitely down for that!!

 

[kwschumm]

No. The control unit is the receiver for the remotes and the transmitter for the lights.

Class Actions can take those atta-boy's away!!!

Yep, that's the way the system works but don't hold your breath waiting for the class action suit. Doubtful it will ever happen unless a bunch of people get killed due to open garage doors provably caused by the controller.

 

[dla]

My wall control died last week. Never did anything funny, just no light/no response one random day. Liftmaster got a new one to me quickly and without fuss. The two caps in my old one aren't bulged on the end but I'll de-solder them to test.

 

[2level]

Hey guys, I just read through this thread. I don't actually own a LM 8500 yet, but I plan to purchase one in the next week or two and this has me worried.

Are all of you having failures on the 888LM? Is anyone with a 880LM affected? (the one with the LCD and clock).

I have some experience with embedded system design and have some guesses as to why these are failing (if anyone is interested enough to keep reading...)
I'm making a LOT of assumptions that I could verify once I purchase my own, but here's what I think is happening:
These units use 2 wires for power and communication. I don't see any magnetics on the board (those PCB pictures are insanely helpful, thank you!) which is unfortunate because I thought they were doing something like PoE (power over ethernet) where they decouple the AC and DC signals with a tiny transformer inside the RJ45 jacks.
My best guess is the opener is charging up those 2.7V, 1F capacitors periodically with a DC voltage, then using the wires for communication. Basically a time share on those 2 wires (a fraction of a second for power, then a fraction of a second for data).

This is not a great use for those capacitors and will decrease their life span by cycling them so much. It probably explains the fairly consistent 3 year lifespan as well. When they fail, they are probably shorting internally causing a "closed contact" signal between the 2 wires going to the opener. This probably makes the opener think a doorbell style button is pressed, and causes the door to cycle.

A REALLY bad design on Liftmaster's part seeing as the failure mode is to open people's garages. If the controller is communicating with the opener, the opener should NOT recognize "closed contact" signals.
If you power up the opener and there is no controller connected, the opener should then and ONLY then accept "closed contact" signals.

For those of you that have controllers fail and are waiting for a replacement, you can just install a cheapo doorbell from your local store and it should work.

I talked with a Liftmaster "Product Quality Team" member yesterday, and he thinks that yes, those wires are sharing duty -- power and data.
When asked about the apparent default-to-open mode he indicated that it's not a common failure mode. CYA? He also said that a 3-channel 850LM or a 365LM receiver wired to a momentary switch, aka doorbell, could be used as substitute wall controls that allow remotes to operate. But, I think you'd lose other opener system functions.

 

[PoorOwner]

Once again I want to ask if anyone have used this one, it's only $35 and it is a better unit than what the 8500 comes.
I had one for my chamberlain belt drive.

880LM

 

[2level]

My wall control died last week. Never did anything funny, just no light/no response one random day. Liftmaster got a new one to me quickly and without fuss. The two caps in my old one aren't bulged on the end but I'll de-solder them to test.

What do your capacitors look like: Are they black and gold Hy/Cap labeled, black and silver Vina Technology EC, or something else? What model and mfg. date is your wall control?

 

[dla]

What do your capacitors look like: Are they black and gold Hy/Cap labeled, black and silver Vina Technology EC, or something else? What model and mfg. date is your wall control?

Brown and gold Hy Cap, manufacture date Sep 2015.

 

[Dakota00]

Once again I want to ask if anyone have used this one, it's only $35 and it is a better unit than what the 8500 comes.
I had one for my chamberlain belt drive.

880LM

I mentioned earlier in one of my posts, that the 880LM based off of reviews from owners on the LiftMaster forum are also experiencing 2-3yr life spans on these controllers too.

 

[Dakota00]

OK, seeing as the wall controller is the brain with the learn button in it. And the remote is a slave to it. By removing the 888LM controller and replacing it with a simple door bell type button the garage door still functions fine. Minus all the bells and whistles which I don't use like the motion sensor or the MyQ stuff. Only thing that matters to me is that the remote works.

With that I've been doing some searching and came across an option, either going with a radio control receiver and remote such as Chamberlain 955d https://www.walmart.com/ip/Chamberl...pener-Remote-Control-Replacement-Kit/15580711 or something similar like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00076WODS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Another concern is the light feature will probably not work anymore. But surely something can be rigged up.

Just wondering what you guys think?
I lost all faith in LiftMaster from a security standpoint, we shouldn't have to worry about our garage door(s) opening by itself at any given time. So a fix is needed ASAP!

 

[2level]

Brown and gold Hy Cap, manufacture date Sep 2015.

My new one, marked Hy/Cap also, is dark brown and gold too. Looks almost black. My old one, Oct 2013 mfg., was different; as described. Anyway, the factory Product Quality Team guy told me the new version started Jun 2015. So, it appears that your dead one was the new version. Not good.

 

[MDM]

One day while I was at work, my house alarm went off and alerted my phone. Then the alarm company called. I then looked at the security cameras from my phone and no one was there, but my garage door was open. I figured it was a fluke or someone cruising around with a code device. I reviewed the DVR and found no one driving by or around the house. I just figured it was a fluke......until my alarm went off at 2am one night and my garage door was opening. So long story short, they call it a phantom opening. It's a known problem and LM knows all about it. They are good about replacing the defective part, but they **** at giving a **** about security and being proactive about letting people know about the issue and handling it before it happens. They obviously don't take security seriously and don't share the respect we all do for our garage and its contents.

 

[PoorOwner]

OK, seeing as the wall controller is the brain with the learn button in it. And the remote is a slave to it. By removing the 888LM controller and replacing it with a simple door bell type button the garage door still functions fine. Minus all the bells and whistles which I don't use like the motion sensor or the MyQ stuff. Only thing that matters to me is that the remote works.

With that I've been doing some searching and came across an option, either going with a radio control receiver and remote such as Chamberlain 955d https://www.walmart.com/ip/Chamberl...pener-Remote-Control-Replacement-Kit/15580711 or something similar like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00076WODS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Another concern is the light feature will probably not work anymore. But surely something can be rigged up.

Just wondering what you guys think?
I lost all faith in LiftMaster from a security standpoint, we shouldn't have to worry about our garage door(s) opening by itself at any given time. So a fix is needed ASAP!

Darn, I do like the motion lights though, I have 2.. It's so handy. Replacing it with a 2 wire switch would work, but it's so 1988..

Why can't they redesign the PCB to put less strain for the caps.. The jackshaft is unique and cost a pretty penny already..

 

[dla]

My new one, marked Hy/Cap also, is dark brown and gold too. Looks almost black. My old one, Oct 2013 mfg., was different; as described. Anyway, the factory Product Quality Team guy told me the new version started Jun 2015. So, it appears that your dead one was the new version. Not good.

I haven't actually had a chance to desolder and test my caps yet. IF I do find one or both to be bad, would there be issue with replacing them with units from digikey of the same volt/capacitance rating? For example, I searched 2.7v 1f capacitor <-- link to search results. Am I concerned with "Equivalent Series Resistance"?

 

[Dakota00]

I haven't actually had a chance to desolder and test my caps yet. IF I do find one or both to be bad, would there be issue with replacing them with units from digikey of the same volt/capacitance rating? For example, I searched 2.7v 1f capacitor <-- link to search results. Am I concerned with "Equivalent Series Resistance"?

I went about ordering new caps, and soldering them in. And still was experiencing the same grounding out issue. So in my case the caps were not the problem but something else was malfunctioning on the board.

 

[GTO]

My unit is 10 years old,never had problems like those mentioned in this thread.I have the older pad,maybe that has something to do with it.I also installed the fingerprint opener about 5 years ago......(knocking on wood)

 

[2level]

My unit is 10 years old,never had problems like those mentioned in this thread.I have the older pad,maybe that has something to do with it.I also installed the fingerprint opener about 5 years ago......(knocking on wood)

What model is your opener, and what model wall control? IIRC the 8500 opener didn't come out until 2013.