Looking at subcompact/compact tractors.

[Next]

Looking at getting a tractor, wanting a TLB, with belly mower, box blade and grapple.

All dealers are at least 1.5 hours away outside TYM and Rural King.

TYM - dealer, 30 minutes away 1 year in business

Rural King - 30 minutes away

Kubota - 3 dealers 1.5 hours away all legacy - 15 years plus

John Deere - 3, 1.5 hours away all legacy - 15 years plus

LS - 1, 1.5 hours old dealer 10 years, bought by new one for about 2

Mahindra - 2, 1.5 hours 10 years plus

Kioti - 1, 2 hours 5 years.

Looking at BX23 and 1025 to start, but they seem, small

Next size up is big jump in price, outside the 2nd tier guys.

Experience and suggestions?

 

[dudley123]

How much property are you maintaining or end goal for usage? I have an X730 and 1025R that has done everything I need but not doing much other than mowing and yard cleanup.. Box blade the gravel driveway/parking pads and tree cleanup. (<5acres)

 

[Next]

How much property are you maintaining or end goal for usage? I have an X730 and 1025R that has done everything I need but not doing much other than mowing and yard cleanup.. Box blade the gravel driveway/parking pads and tree cleanup. (<5acres)

About 8 acres between 2 properties

 

[JimH74]

Not sure how far away you are from Somerset, but a guy on TractorByNet used to swear the best place for service and price for Kubota was Barlow's in Somerset. No personal dealings with them. I have a Kubota B2920, an older model. I think the two models you're looking at are in fact quite small. With that said, you can do a lot with a small tractor, it just takes longer. Try to decide exactly what you're wanting to do and how much time you want to spend doing it. I bought mine for what I planned to use it for, then found a lot more I'd like to do, but it was not heavy enough or strong enough. Wished I bought a size larger in power and weight. Just something to think about.

 

[manwithtools]

With 8 acres, I'd be looking at a CUT, not a SCUT. That's unless you have lots of time to get things done, smaller machines can do it, just takes longer. I'm very partial to Kubota myself. I'm on my 4th and 5th machines now.

 

[manwithtools]

Not sure how far away you are from Somerset, but a guy on TractorByNet used to swear the best place for service and price for Kubota was Barlow's in Somerset. No personal dealings with them.

I've bought a TLB and a zero turn from Barlows. Great to deal with and will actually discount a bit more on the Kubotas than any of my local dealers in TN.

 

[Next]

Not sure how far away you are from Somerset, but a guy on TractorByNet used to swear the best place for service and price for Kubota was Barlow's in Somerset. No personal dealings with them. I have a Kubota B2920, an older model. I think the two models you're looking at are in fact quite small. With that said, you can do a lot with a small tractor, it just takes longer. Try to decide exactly what you're wanting to do and how much time you want to spend doing it. I bought mine for what I planned to use it for, then found a lot more I'd like to do, but it was not heavy enough or strong enough. Wished I bought a size larger in power and weight. Just something to think about.

Barlows is 3 hours away on the worst road(or 2nd worst) in the state of Kentucky lol. Might be worth it though.

 

[LopezBart]

Keep in mind that weight is great in a tractor/tlb - except for use on lawns. A belly mower means you're trying to keep the grass nice. How long does your lawn stay soft from the rains? Look how much you want to lift in the loader bucket, and how hilly and uneven your lawn is. We manage the lawn areas with a 20 hp walk-behind; the brush mower behind the 5000 lb TLB handles the 5 acres of pasture, but I won't be able to get out there until mid May the way the rain keeps falling. Don't forget about transport as well between your properties. We use the tiny Kubota to handle smaller tasks; it will often fit in the woods where our John Deere 110 TLB hasn't a prayer.

Both tractors were acquired well-used.

 

[Firebrick43]

Belly mowers on sub or compact tractors are very slow around obstacles/trees. If your doing 8 acres your probably wanting to use a bush hog instead.

I also suggest a compact 40+ hp tractor if you value time. I have a 53hp tractor with 8’ bush hog and have 8 acres in pasture and it takes me a good 4 to 5 hours to mow them all. It’s broke up into 3 sections, it would go faster if it was one large unbroken section. A sub compact will do it, just take a lot more time.

Also I highly suggest a back hoe on a sub frame. 3 point backhoes are very hard on the top link mounting point and I have seen quite a few tractors with the top of the diff housing ripped out or even completely off where the top link attaches.

As far as brand, dealer support is probably the most important thing so ask around and see what people think that have owned one for a few years. I have seen some real unhappy people for some of the less established brands from dealers that are not tractor dealers but trailer lots or atv dealers that want to expand but hold parts orders until they are big enough and lack of knowledgeable mechanics.

 

[472scout]

The way to buy a tractor is identify your most demanding tasks and then size from there.

How much weight do you need to lift (Loader capacity)? How wide of a mower/bush hog/fail mower/tiller/etc. do you want to run (pto HP)? How deep you need to dig and is it loam, shale, or rocks (backhoe capacity).

For instance, 25 hp is whimpy for a 6-7 ft bush hog in heavy brush and many subcompacts can only lift around 800 lbs at the pins.

Keep in mind that over 25 hp on a diesel means regen emissions and everything that goes along with it.

 

[Racer_X]

Experience and suggestions?

I would suggest spending some time reading/posting at MyTractorForum. Lots of experience and sage advice over there.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Right now there are some great deals being offered, both cash & credit. I bought a NH 25 with a subframe BH, grader box, forks, rake & tiller. For me it's the right size, & does everything I need it to do. Going bigger would not have been worth it, I can work in tight areas & pull through a 7' garage door. For mowing I bought a ZT, sometimes trying to do it all with one machine is not worth it. I also didn't get a cab, I'm on & off the machine so much a cab would slow me down. Good luck.

 

[Adaylate]

I agree with your assessment of the bx for your size properties.
I have a B2630 and have about the same acreage as you, it works quite well for me.

I answered a Craigslist ad. The seller had bought it during one of Kubota's promo's. His three years of interest free financing was about up and his projects were done.

The B2630 has met all my expectations the only drawback is Kubota is quite proud of their parts!

Good luck with your search!

 

[cgrutt]

I had a Massey Fergusen subcompact with small backhoe and front end loader. It was perfect for what I used it for (except mowing which was more about my property than the machine). Had front snowblower, a plow blade (hydraulic up/down, left/right), 60" mid mount mowing deck (worked great but I wasnt comfortable using tractor on parts of my sloped property) and a small three point york rake. The backhoe was OK but machine was a little too light for it IMO. Front end loader was small but I used it for a ton of stuff. Only had issue with removing one tree with a very large root ball off back of a delivery truck. Handled everything else I threw at it. At the time the Massey was more affordable than comparable Kubota.

 

[Snapped-off]

Completely depends on your terrain, but I'd be looking at a B/LX/L or 2/3/4 series from Deere and whatever the equivalents are from the others.

Skip the mower deck and get a brush hog or zero turn mower.

I'm really considering upgrading my BX to a B series TLB. But for the cost I could pick up a used skid steer and mini ex. Dunno how I'm supposed to decide.

 

[472scout]

Going off Acreage is a poor way to size a tractor IMO.

A 20 hp subcompact can mow acres of Kentucky Bluegrass and drag a 4ft land plane down a level gravel road all day long.

However, if you need to cut down acres of saplings/brush, dig out lots of stumps, and your roads are a mess of deep ruts and washouts then a subcompact like some are suggesting would be a poor choice even for a single acre.

Like snapped off said it depends on the terrain. Tell us more about your property or better yet post pictures.

 

[70runner]

Started with a BX23, great to learn TLB basics, but quickly outgrew it. Sold it and bought new B26 TLB in 2008. Great machine. In 17yrs have had to rebuild one BH cylinder with minor leak. Use it to maintain my 5 acres of hillside avocado grove terrain. If you get a TLB, make sure to get the BH thumb.

 

[CDPLUCKER]

I have bought 2 tractors from barlow's and my friends and family have bought 3 others. I have been very pleased with my kubota's, while not perfect, they are easy to work on and parts have always been available. have a BX2200 for mowing and B21 TLB for dirt and bushhogging

 

[Spindifferent]

Looking at getting a tractor, wanting a TLB, with belly mower, box blade and grapple.

All dealers are at least 1.5 hours away outside TYM and Rural King.

TYM - dealer, 30 minutes away 1 year in business

Rural King - 30 minutes away

Kubota - 3 dealers 1.5 hours away all legacy - 15 years plus

John Deere - 3, 1.5 hours away all legacy - 15 years plus

LS - 1, 1.5 hours old dealer 10 years, bought by new one for about 2

Mahindra - 2, 1.5 hours 10 years plus

Kioti - 1, 2 hours 5 years.

Looking at BX23 and 1025 to start, but they seem, small

Next size up is big jump in price, outside the 2nd tier guys.

Experience and suggestions?

Access to dealer service and parts is a key consideration. You can’t go wrong with either a green or orange tractor, esp. since they have been in business as you say for 15 years plus.
I own a 20-year old Deere that I can easily buy parts when needed.
Good luck and have fun with whatever you choose!

 

[manwithtools]

Sold it and bought new B26 TLB in 2008

have a BX2200 for mowing and B21 TLB

Something for the OP to know, the B21 and B26 TLB mentioned in these posts are not consumer grade / farmet machines. These machines with only two numbers after the B are true commercial / industrial use machines. Much higher breakout and lifting capacities than those in the common "B" family. Their price reflects that extra capacity and purposeful TLB design.

The common B series machines can have a frame mounted backhoe mounted to them and perform quite well, they are simply not in the same class as the B21, B26, L47 machines. The B21 is NLA BTW.

Another thought I'll put out there. If your backhoe needs are limited, I would forgo the TLB approach and rent a mini-ex as needed. They are way more powerful and productive and you can rent one many, many times for the cost of the tractor mounted backhoe. Do not buy a tractor wihtout a loader no matter what you do. They are just too handy, and adding one after purchase can be a hassle and expensive.

With Kubota or Deere and probably other main line brands, you can order parts online to save the long drive to the dealer. I suspect you won't need anything but maintenance (filters, etc) for the first few years.

 

[TurnipTruck]

I have seen many many 1 series JD and equivalent for sale with less than 100 hours, which tells me their owners bought too small.

8 acres, some hills, some bluffs, half a mile of roads, sloping field, potato patch, orchard, couple greenhouses, several hobbies involving heavy chunks of cast iron, all with a 40hp tractor that is only occasionally too small.

 

[PCustoms]

With 8 acres, I'd be looking at a CUT, not a SCUT.

Quoted this and scanned the rest of the thread. Fully agree, and run a heavier CUT on just 3...

@Next what are you looking to accomplish at each property?

How hilly is the terrain? Finished/manicured lawn, field or woods?

 

[ericm]

About 8 acres between 2 properties

What kind of terrain? Vegetation? What do you want to use the tractor for?


I started with a 16hp Kubota B7100 for my steep mostly wooded 20ac. It was too small. Then a Branson 3725, which is much more useful. It runs a PTO chipper, rotary cutter and forestry winch. i have a grapple for the loader to move logs and brush. I got a used 50hp Deere utility tractor when I bought a farm last year.

TYM bought Branson not long after I got mine. I hear about a lot of problems getting parts. Mine has only needed maintenance items. My dealer is 3 hours away but they ship. Mine has been fine but I'm not sure I'd get a TYM now.

Deere and Kubota have good parts availability. But you will pay, especially for Deere.

 

[Rc_Guy]

The way to buy a tractor is identify your most demanding tasks and then size from there.

How much weight do you need to lift (Loader capacity)? How wide of a mower/bush hog/fail mower/tiller/etc. do you want to run (pto HP)? How deep you need to dig and is it loam, shale, or rocks (backhoe capacity).

For instance, 25 hp is whimpy for a 6-7 ft bush hog in heavy brush and many subcompacts can only lift around 800 lbs at the pins.

Keep in mind that over 25 hp on a diesel means regen emissions and everything that goes along with it.

90 hours on my John Deere 2032r and it has been in regen 3 times. And does not need def

 

[ericm]

90 hours on my John Deere 2032r and it has been in regen 3 times. And does not need def

No tractors under 75hp use DEF. Tier 4 emissions regulations are easier on a per HP basis at 75 and 25.5hp.

Most current Tier 4 tractors < 75hp use DOC+DPF but no DEF or EGR. Those last two have been the most problematic on diesel trucks. Some only have a DOC, sometimes with EGR. Most have common rail EFI but some still have mechanical injection.

Under 25.5hp combustion chamber shape and injection timing are enough to meet the requirements.

 

[AC-WC]

No tractors under 75hp use DEF. Tier 4 emissions regulations are easier on a per HP basis at 75 and 25.5hp.

Most current Tier 4 tractors < 75hp use DOC+DPF but no DEF or EGR. Those last two have been the most problematic on diesel trucks. Some only have a DOC, sometimes with EGR. Most have common rail EFI but some still have mechanical injection.

Under 25.5hp combustion chamber shape and injection timing are enough to meet the requirements.

Hate to disagree but both of mom's Massey Fergusons have DEF, GC17 is 23hp, 1740 is 41hp. About 6 yrs old now, both diesels just different sizes. The small one I've never had trouble with but the 1740 has to be run at PTO speed to prevent regen. Regen requires the parking brake to be on and push the regen button. It will run for about an hour and then be OK. I tried to run the bush hog with the regen but it has to have the parking brake on

 

[PCustoms]

Hate to disagree but both of mom's Massey Fergusons have DEF, GC17 is 23hp, 1740 is 41hp. About 6 yrs old now, both diesels just different sizes. The small one I've never had trouble with but the 1740 has to be run at PTO speed to prevent regen. Regen requires the parking brake to be on and push the regen button. It will run for about an hour and then be OK. I tried to run the bush hog with the regen but it has to have the parking brake on

Do you understand what DEF is?

I bought a tractor on 2020. Not scut or CUT had DEF that recall, and I believe I specifically looked at 1740

 

[AC-WC]

Do you understand what DEF is?

I bought a tractor on 2020. Not scut or CUT had DEF that recall, and I believe I specifically looked at 1740

I'll be over there tomorrow and take a picture of the DEF bottle on both of them. I had to put more DEF in the 1740 last year.

 

[MongoTA]

I have an LS MT125. Had it for 5 years. TLB, pallet forks, front snowblower, belly mower.

For what it is I LOVE it. It is a small tractor and I'll parrot the others, it just takes longer to do things. Last year I moved 280 yards of topsoil and 80 yards of mulch one bucket at a time. Better than a wheelbarrow, but this bucket is about the same size as a wheelbarrow.

I wanted it to be an everything tractor, problem is, for me to use the belly mower on my yard it really should have turf tires versus the R4s that are on it. It will compact your soil. It might even compact the soil with turfs.

My lawn keeps getting smaller and smaller, so I'll eventually not use it for mowing in the future.

However, for ME? The TLB functions are fine. Again, it's small. But it gets the work done. The pallet forks, the FEL can lift 1000lbs at the pins, which translates to a good amount less...maybe 600lbs...when the weight is out in front of the pins on a pallet. That reduction is a bit of a disapointment for me.

Snowblower? I love it. 900' long driveway, it's two laps up and back and I'm done.

The work station? I'm 6'4, 270 lbs and ergonomically it's good for me and my size 14 boots. All controls are easily accessible, the heels of my boots don't hit any of the controls on the platform. When I was shoping and trying out different tractors, my feet would get pinched once in a while, or my boot lace would catch on a knob or lever. I've never had that problem on the MT125.

Might be too small if you're working that amount of acreage. But over the years I've had no maintenance or quality control issues that have required dealer intervention. I think they are well designed. When I've shopped for parts many of the LS part numbers match Kubota numbers.

 

[PCustoms]

I'll be over there tomorrow and take a picture of the DEF bottle on both of them. I had to put more DEF in the 1740 last year.

Please do, as I'm genuinely confused

 

[Jackfre]

I loved my BX23 & 2660. I think you will be best off in the B class. The 23 dug really well but it was like bailing out Lake Tahoe with a tablespoon. I had a 4’ bush hog on the 2660, but there were time when I really felt that the mower was driving the tractor vs the other way around. Not even a little bit good on a slope. I was able to knock things down and handle it with the MMM. I bought Kubota because I had a good local dealer of long standing and the 2660 was my first tractor and wanted the backup both for parts and advice. They were excellent, helping a great deal. I also bought in ‘08 during the last crash. ALL the off brand dealers disappeared almost overnight. In todays world that is worth a thought

 

[J_E_F_F]

I have an LS MT240 and it's been pretty good. It really depends on your property. With the 40hp, I have to deal with emissions (DPF) and I've had what I feel are excessive regens, but the tractor has done everything I've asked of it. 2k+ lift capacity, front hydraulic auger, lane shark, grapple, stump grinder, box blade, landscape rake, stump bucket, forks, etc. Very versatile

Your property dictates your needs, and you didn't really get into that. I have a bit over 6 acres and a SCUT would not fit my needs. My neighbor has a decked out JD1025R and he calls me for help at times, it just doesn't have the oomph.

Oh, and a zero turn is going to be a lot better for mowing and convenience than a belly mower on a tractor. Don't make that mistake. Especially since you want to be switching attachments, and even a backhoe.

 

[ipgenie]

I've got a 2000 series JD with both a belly mower and a rear flail mower. I use the flail 90% of the time and a zero turn for the lawn. It would have been cheaper to skip the belly mower and only get the zero turn but I thought I wanted the belly mower for most things. I like how it cuts, but lift height can be a problem if mowing unmanacured lawn.

On a side note, I've also got a 9.5k mini and a 82hp bobcat for my 2.25 acres . I do some side jobs here and there and occasional maintenance on some forest property, but I'd keep them all even if they never left the property. Just too dang handy to give them up.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

Lots of good replies, but just to add my thoughts..

Find the dealer with the best support. If you look through all the forums and Facebook groups of different tractors, every brand has duds. The key will be how well your dealer supports you if/when you have issues.

For 8 acres, I'd probably be going for a CUT, not a SCUT.

We're on 3 acres and I went with a Kioti CS2220 (SCUT). Perfect for our property - clearing snow, brush, digging, grading, brush mowing, post hole digging, raking, and more. My only regret is that I should've bought one 12 years earlier when I bought my house - would've saved a lot of wear and tearing on my knees, back, and poor riding mower over the years.

A box blade and grapple are incredibly useful. Skip the belly mower and put that toward a zero turn for weekly lawn mowing purposes. Use the tractor for a brush hog or flail mower, if needed.

Personally I would skip the backhoe as well and put the money toward a cheap mini excavator, or a lot of rentals on a mini-ex. It'll be way faster, more convenient, and less frustrating than a backhoe on a small tractor. They quote me $8200 to add the backhoe on mine, which I quickly denied. For the 10-12 times I might need an excavator here on our property, I'll come out way ahead by renting one as needed, and get it done a lot faster. But, if you really want it and have money to throw away, do it.

 

[Next]

I'll post pictures this evening.

 

[Next]

 

[finn]

Mine is a 40 hp cab model CUT, a Kioti ck4010se hydrostatic drive. I think it’s about 8 years old now. I chose the Kioti because the dealer is four miles from the house on the only road to town and it was the heaviest cab tractor with front blower capability that would fit in my garage comfortably. The only other dealer closer than two hours away was Deere. The dealer has been excellent.

I looked into a subframe mounted backhoe attachment, but chose to go with a mini excavator instead. That was a good decision as the mini ex is a lot more maneuverable and capable.

Belly mowers are seemingly falling out of favor and most seem to be going with a dedicated lawn tractor or zero turn. I borrowed my brother in law’s bush hog, but ended up with a flail mower I found with low hours, as it works better for my use, as my shop property has a lot of mature oaks among dense undergrowth. I use the flail in the spring and early summer to mulch fallen branches and then switch to the lawn tractor after I get the wilderness under control. The bush hog wasn’t very maneuverable between trees because of its wide swing, while the flail tucks up close to the tractor. A landscape rake is good for cleanup after hitting the branches with the flail, and prior to bringing out the rider for later in the season.

I considered a heated cab a must because snow removal was the primary reason I bought the tractor. It’s nice to be insect free when doing early summer work, too, and the ac is great, although I did have to top off the freak after seven years.

I wouldn’t consider either the BX or B if I was looking at a Kubota. My tractor is, I think, the equivalent of a Kubota Grand L. I wouldn’t go smaller. Kioti probability has the highest loader lift capacity in its class, and I use every bit of that capacity. Rimguard in the tires, and the box blade on the back, or even the flail help counterbalance the bucket or fork loads.

Edit: one other thing to consider is that Kubota seems to be the only manufacturer that is still clinging to the old style rocker pedal to control the HST. Most everyone else has transitioned to the more ergonomic twin pedal design.

Whatever you chose, make sure it has a cruise control function and linked pedal.

 

[clutchee]

We have about 8 acres, bought a 2305 and then 1023 John Deere. Both were used with few hundred hours.

Biggest thing is parts/ service being local.

So as you used tractor or need parts they are available.

Friend bought off brand, and then had issues getting parts or repairs done.

 

[bbxlr8]

As per good advice above, it depends on the task and time. Great that you are doing your homework, and people get passionate about color

My 2 cents: Have had 5 - 15 acres.
Orig & still have a "blue" grass cutting machine with 60"mmm. Size-wise: Great at finish cut volume, better for open space
Went to "orange", smallest L as TLB and was the goldilocks one for me based on grading, treework (love it).
Recently added ZTM and cut 4+ ac & trails

Others offer various values, and all colors have strengths and weaknesses in their lines

Read up on make-specific forums and some multi-line resources,
ex. google these...

• messicks,
• goodworks tractor
• tractorbynet
• orangetractortalks (for K)

 

[My Old Tools]

Anything under 25hp diesel is a lawn mower, not a tractor. Also, 4 wheel drive if you have a loader.