Fleet is Ford, GM and Toyota.
Looking for a one person brake bleeder setup!
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Tool Using Animal
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I take out the bleeder, wrap the threads with teflon tape and reinstall it. Then I use one of these:
The teflon tape prevents air from going back into the bleeder past the threads.
Has been working great so far.
The teflon tape prevents air from going back into the bleeder past the threads.
Has been working great so far.
Motive brake bleeder adapters to fit different models
kbuhagiar
Well-known member
I second this method.Motive brake bleeder adapters to fit different models
I have used a Motive bleeder before and it works great once you have it set up. Put it up to around 10-12PSI iirc on the reservoir and then just open/close the bleeder valves in sequence until you see fresh fluid.
The only catch is that depending upon your application, pressurizing the reservoir may be a royal pain. For example, OEM Honda twist-lock lids just don't hold pressure and I haven't found any aftermarket adapters that fit well. Some are ridiculously tight to the point that they will break the plastic reservoir while others instruct you to clamp a flat plate down hard on top of reservoir lip using a chain (lol).
I ended up epoxying the upper half of a threaded Porsche 356 reservoir onto the lower half of the stock Honda reservoir on my 85 civic. The epoxy joint held fine but some pressure ended up leaking out between the Porsche threads and the motive adapter cap anyway, go figure. Maybe a lower pressure would have helped but I was already using below the recommended pressure (15psi), so YMMV. Just be prepared to clean up drips and leaks.
The only catch is that depending upon your application, pressurizing the reservoir may be a royal pain. For example, OEM Honda twist-lock lids just don't hold pressure and I haven't found any aftermarket adapters that fit well. Some are ridiculously tight to the point that they will break the plastic reservoir while others instruct you to clamp a flat plate down hard on top of reservoir lip using a chain (lol).
I ended up epoxying the upper half of a threaded Porsche 356 reservoir onto the lower half of the stock Honda reservoir on my 85 civic. The epoxy joint held fine but some pressure ended up leaking out between the Porsche threads and the motive adapter cap anyway, go figure. Maybe a lower pressure would have helped but I was already using below the recommended pressure (15psi), so YMMV. Just be prepared to clean up drips and leaks.
jobo1004
Well-known member
ajchien
Well-known member
check out the CTA 7030 and 7043 adapter for Honda.
Wrong size for most applications.
I did buy a CTA 7032 for my Prelude but it is so insanely tight to get on/off that that I only test fit it once because I was afraid the reservoir or locking tabs would snap. Spec listed on the website is 74mm but the plastic on the adapter measures 74.8mm and the o-ring brings it up to over 76mm.
kabinenroller
Well-known member
I own all of the popular brake bleeding tools, pressure, vacuum, etc. The one I use the most especially when working alone is Speed Bleeder. http://www.speedbleeder.com/
They replace your normal bleed fitting, they have a built in check valve that prevents air from being sucked back into the system. I have them installed on my cars and my motorcycle.
They replace your normal bleed fitting, they have a built in check valve that prevents air from being sucked back into the system. I have them installed on my cars and my motorcycle.
LWB
Well-known member
Gravity bleed
joe_padavano
Well-known member
Ask 20 people and you'll get 25 answers. Here's mine. Get a Vacula vacuum bleeder (or the Chinesium clones available everywhere now). I've had mine for 25 years. By far one of the best tools I've ever bought. One pass at each of the wheels and you're done. You don't even need to bench bleed the M/C, it will pull the air out.
texasbob
Member
I have been using a Mighty Mite for years. Simple vacuum system.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Long clear hose looped over a ladder, pump away.
Gravity will keep the line full of brake fluid, so no air will get in, and any air in the system will rise to the top where the line loops over the ladder.
Obviously a catch bottle at the end of the line. I use an old brake fluid bottle, two holes in the cap, one just big enough for an interference fit for the line, the other hole acts as a breather.
Gravity will keep the line full of brake fluid, so no air will get in, and any air in the system will rise to the top where the line loops over the ladder.
Obviously a catch bottle at the end of the line. I use an old brake fluid bottle, two holes in the cap, one just big enough for an interference fit for the line, the other hole acts as a breather.
Last edited:
assassin10000
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Got air? Get a sub $25 vacuum bleeder from amazon.
39CAMC
Well-known member
There is no wrong answer, we all have our favorites. In my case, and I bleed/flush a lot of brakes, I have motive pressure bleeders with all the adapters and 2-3 vacuum setups which all work fine, but 99/100 times, I use my bleeder bottle. I a not even sure if my current one(s) all have the check valve, it doesn't matter if the pickup is under fluid in the bottle.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F9XHVKA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
DaveW
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F9XHVKA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
DaveW
merkyworks
Well-known member
I’ve got a Motive setup and it works good, 100% bled my brakes by myself without issue.
richfinn
Well-known member
I take out the bleeder, wrap the threads with teflon tape and reinstall it. Then I use one of these:
The teflon tape prevents air from going back into the bleeder past the threads.
Has been working great so far.
For home use this is cost effective and reliable, I have two 200ml Syringes. I have one for sucking fluid out of brake calipers and reservoirs (the dirty version) and another for back bleeding hydraulic clutches by "injecting" fresh fluid in to the slave cylinder (the clean version). They cost around £3 each!!!!
Silicone grease works pretty good for sealing threads if you get bored using PTFE tape
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Not a great idea to use PTFE tape.For home use this is cost effective and reliable, I have two 200ml Syringes. I have one for sucking fluid out of brake calipers and reservoirs (the dirty version) and another for back bleeding hydraulic clutches by "injecting" fresh fluid in to the slave cylinder (the clean version). They cost around £3 each!!!!
Silicone grease works pretty good for sealing threads if you get bored using PTFE tape
This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F9XHVKA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
It was expensive for what it is, but once you own it, you never think about it again and it was well worth the money.
I also take out the bleeders and lather them in anti sieze. Learned on my last brake job that the aluminum calipers GM uses are a PITA if you don't replace the fluid when its due.
It was expensive for what it is, but once you own it, you never think about it again and it was well worth the money.
I also take out the bleeders and lather them in anti sieze. Learned on my last brake job that the aluminum calipers GM uses are a PITA if you don't replace the fluid when its due.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I started with mity vac and it was terrible. I then tried vacuum bleeders but they always pull air from the threads so you don't really know buy looking at the tubing if all the air is out, you just have to assume.
I tried a friends motive and it was pretty good but if you put brake fluid in the resivor its a mess when your done and absorbs water if you don't put it back in the bottle until next time. If you just use it as a pump for air it works well but why pump when you have an air compressor.
I ended up buying a power probe cap for my vehicles and it has all the advantages of a motive bleeder without the manual pumping. Do have to stop, depressurize and add fluid if you do it this way typically after your done with the rear axle but its clean and easy.
I tried a friends motive and it was pretty good but if you put brake fluid in the resivor its a mess when your done and absorbs water if you don't put it back in the bottle until next time. If you just use it as a pump for air it works well but why pump when you have an air compressor.
I ended up buying a power probe cap for my vehicles and it has all the advantages of a motive bleeder without the manual pumping. Do have to stop, depressurize and add fluid if you do it this way typically after your done with the rear axle but its clean and easy.
Jim greengo
Well-known member
Jar full of brake fluid with a clear rubber hose submerged in it has always worked for me,but I'm cheap. Hahaha
ajchien
Well-known member
Thats unfortunate. I had emailed CTA for my Honda applications, and they pointed me to the 7030. It fits well, works much better for me than Motive’s “universal” adapter plate and J hooks. Power probe also has a Honda cap, you might check with them.
Oldsmobile
Well-known member
An enthusastic third. I'm a DIYer, and usually have not had a second person to pump the pedal. I had the little bottles with brake fluid, but I hated not being able to see what was happening as I pumped. I then graduated to a vacuum pump, and that worked better, but it was a lot of pumping. Next, I tried the air-operated vacuum version, and that was a huge improvement. But then I learned about the Motive, and bought one, and it's by far the best method I've ever used. Pump it up and the fluid & air just spits out like gangbusters. It's very easy to get a good, firm pedal with the Motive.
signcrafter
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Either pressure or vacuum both work good. Each has its place. I chose vacuum with the mity vac. Not the fluid suckers but the dedicated brake bleeder vacuum they sell that runs on air and has an auto fill jug for the master. It's pretty expensive but when you work by yourself most of the time it comes in handy. There has been once that I couldn't get it to **** fluid from one caliper and had to have a helper two man bleed to free it up. Not sure if there was something in line or what. But after a few pumps of pedal the vacuum worked great. So not sure if a motive style pressure bleeder would have solved that or not. But overall I've been very happy with they mity vac for the last 15 or so years I've had it.
Tool Using Animal
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Some more stuff about solo brake bleeding:
richfinn
Well-known member
Yep, I always use silicone grease it's way faster and you can just wash off the excess with brake cleaner after you tighten the bleed screws.
I used an expensive fancy pressure bleeder at the dealership, but the adaptors were always missing/broken or it was just a filthy mess after the last guy used it.
I use 4mm silicone tube with the syringes and it's clean quick and above all very cheap, it's very rare I work on brakes nowadays but I back bleed a lot of clutches after they run the reservoir too low and they can't get a pedal.
I used an old metal oil squirt can for years, but the brake fluid melted the paint so switched to plastic syringes, the seals last quite well considering, I just buy new ones from ebay when they start getting a bit grotty.
I personally wouldn't spend a lot of my own money on any tool that is in constant contact with corrosive brake fluid (sooner or later you will have to fix it).
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
That will work a lot of the time, but if there’s any air in the system, you need to move some fluid to squish that air out.
I got one of these:
www.summitracing.com
Hooked it up to my little pancake air compressor, works great.
JohnDow Industries JDI-050EV John Dow Brake Fluid Exchangers | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - John Dow Brake Fluid Exchangers with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Brake Bleeder Kits at Summit Racing.
Hooked it up to my little pancake air compressor, works great.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Slow, BUT IT DOES WORK !
Make sure the reservoir is full and stays full ! Get an old plastic quart bottle with a screw on cap and about 3' of clear vinyl. Also find a spring clamp that will guarantee the hose stays attached to the bleeder screw. Drill a hole in the cap slightly smaller than the OD of the hose. You want a tight fit. Place about 1/2" of brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle. Feed the hose in to the bottle until it is BELOW the level of the fluid. Crack the bleeder and walk away for at least 5 minutes. Check often because this will drain the reservoir !
Make sure the bottle stays upright and the hose is always below the level of the fluid in the bottle.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Disagree ! The air will come out !
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Agree to disagree. Had some stubborn motorcycles that needed to have a lot of fluid moving to get the air out.
LWB
Well-known member
I do the same and work on other areas of the car while draining the calipers of old fluid (Track car) Make sure to keep an eye on that master. I have a suction gizmo but found it do be a PITA. It sits in a box somewhere.
milkovich
Well-known member
I had a motive pump and a mityvac and I just gravity bleed. Really nice to lift the car and use a few feet of clear hose.
I'm not sure if Motive fixed this or not, but after a few years, all the hoses crumbled from being exposed to brake fluid. Luckily I didn't find out by spraying the car with brake fluid.
I'm not sure if Motive fixed this or not, but after a few years, all the hoses crumbled from being exposed to brake fluid. Luckily I didn't find out by spraying the car with brake fluid.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
The only problem with this idea is that Power Probe doesn't make or sell these anymore. Great idea though.I started with mity vac and it was terrible. I then tried vacuum bleeders but they always pull air from the threads so you don't really know buy looking at the tubing if all the air is out, you just have to assume.
I tried a friends motive and it was pretty good but if you put brake fluid in the resivor its a mess when your done and absorbs water if you don't put it back in the bottle until next time. If you just use it as a pump for air it works well but why pump when you have an air compressor.
I ended up buying a power probe cap for my vehicles and it has all the advantages of a motive bleeder without the manual pumping. Do have to stop, depressurize and add fluid if you do it this way typically after your done with the rear axle but its clean and easy.
Buckaroo5
Well-known member
I have been using the Mityvac MV6835 for years. Hooks up to your air compressor and no adapters needed for different cars. Works very well but you have to ignore the bubbles you see in the tubing as it does pull air from the connection to the bleeder and perhaps through the bleeder threads. You can effortlessly move a lot of fluid with one of these....
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Mityvac-Vacuum-Brake-Bleed-Kit-MV6835/306763552
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Mityvac-Vacuum-Brake-Bleed-Kit-MV6835/306763552