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Looking for garage work bench ideas

Jack10525

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Dec 15, 2018
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Florida
I have a small 1 car garage that I have a workbench and tools in. It's too small to park cars in so I just used it as a shop. I've rearrange and rebuilt the work area a couple times but always used what ever I had laying around. Its ok but I want something more efficient. This current work space kinda evolved over time and is now not that organized. I'm looking for ideas and plans on how to build a work table with storage shelves. :shocking::lol_hitti:beer:

PS: I like the emojis so I added them.
 
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sixty4

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Not sure if your looking for something like this? This is my next project, I will put mine on casters and have a shelf permanently mounted on the wall, so the bench will slide out from under the shelf for cleaning.

This guy went way overkill on the lag bolts but easily built on the cheap. :beer:
 

nadogail

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I loosely define a workbench as a substantial horizontal surface.
The degree of strength depends on the work to be performed.
Maybe a shelf hinged to the wall, with legs that folds up out of the way when the car is in the way.
 

bad_idea

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There are numerous threads on the forum addressing this. I think the best solution is the HF 44" roller cabinet:

64444_I.jpg


https://www.harborfreight.com/44-in-x-22-in-double-bank-blue-roller-cabinet-64444.html

Stout cabinet with lots of storage space. For a small space I would leave the wheels on it to allow you to move it around for projects. You can build a cabinet base for it much like kitchen cabinets have and pull the wheels. Put a butcher block top on it and you are in there. Can even mount a vice to it. It regularly goes on sale for $375 or so.
 
OP
J

Jack10525

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Not sure if your looking for something like this? This is my next project, I will put mine on casters and have a shelf permanently mounted on the wall, so the bench will slide out from under the shelf for cleaning.

That is almost where I started. I bought a kit that was very similar to that and built a larger workspace and shelving around it. The first try was pretty rough. The second try was a lot better. Now I am going for the professional look. . I basically want the back wall of my garage to be a work bench and shelves. It's only about 10 ft to allow room for the door way. I guess I just need to start measuring and buying lumber.
 
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NUTTSGT

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If you follow the link in my sig to my garage refurb, you can see the benches I built. One has shelves underneath and I did nothing more than add facing and doors to cover them up.
 

SuperCat

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rayra

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As nice as those Harbor Freight tool boxes are and as good of a relative value they are, they're still a $500 solution to a $100 problem. The subject is a workbench.

Here's my 'hobby' bench. It's a floor-to-ceiling design, the bench top is 3' deep, the shelves above and below are 24" deep. 2x4 framing, lag bolts are overkill, and it's screwed to the studs in the wall. Very sturdy. Lots of room and storage.

workbenchoverall.jpg



This is my rolling work table, it's a hybrid of a couple ideas, I originally had a large table top a full 4'x8' melamine-coated particle board as a top, on 4x4 legs, casters, and 2x6 support framing. Later I discovered the portable workbench designs of Ron Paulk, on youtube. I built his portable box / top modules and altered the rollign support frame height to maintain the height of the working surface to my table saw. I use it for all manner of large projects, sewing awnings, auto reupholstery, building furniture and cabinetry.

PaulkMod04.jpg



And in this reverse angle pic is the re-work of the original workbench in the garage. Everything surrounding it is new work, cabinets, shelves, yard tool rack.

PaulkMod05.jpg
 

Elvisidal

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Australia
Pallet racking ‘domestic’ rated
I ran up two shelve systems then joined them with a long section for a bench
This is a single car garage too
 

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bczygan

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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
I have a small 1 car garage that I have a workbench and tools in. It's too small to park cars in so I just used it as a shop. I've rearrange and rebuilt the work area a couple times but always used what ever I had laying around. Its ok but I want something more efficient. This current work space kinda evolved over time and is now not that organized. I'm looking for ideas and plans on how to build a work table with storage shelves. :shocking::lol_hitti:beer:

PS: I like the emojis so I added them.

I'm in the same boat.

The first rule is to make every part of the shop a work space.

No storage! Storage is done elsewhere, basement, attic, storage shed, dining room, etc.

Horizontal surfaces become clutter collectors, so keep them to a minimum. I would have no more than 2. And one of those should fold away.

The next important thing is to make the space flexible. That means making everything movable. Your work table or bench must be on wheels. So should everything else, so you can reconfigure things as needed. The suggestion about using a roller is a good one, as it gives you the "storage" you desire.

Lighting is your necessary friend. Get 100FC at work surface height. For my 9 1/2' x 19 1.2' space that meant eight 2 tube LED lights.

Paint walls gloss white, and ceiling too. If you finish the floor, make it a light monochrome color, so you can find dropped items. None of the fancy multicolored flakes stuff.

Wall cabinets are your friend, but place them strategically, so they serve work stations with tools and supplies for that location, and don't just become dead storage.

Look carefully at what machines, tools and functions can be located elsewhere. Seldom used machines or processes such as a blast cabinet or milling machine can go someplace else. Certainly things like a compressor should not be taking up shop space.

Figure out what the primary function of the shop is, and relegate other functions elsewhere. I had some woodworking machines in mine. Too small a space for that along with anything else. So out they went. They will get their own building. I'm struggling now with the functions of auto repair and general shop space. Not enough room for both functions to be full blown.

Things I have removed from mine include arbor press and base, jointer, 3 compressors, 2 welders, 2 drill presses, etc.

What exactly are you going to be doing in the space? What functions?


Bill
 
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bad_idea

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Keep the depth to 2'. 3' deep benches are nice in a large space, but that extra 1' just collects junk. If you need a large table for laying out a specific project (I haven't run across this issue often), make a 4' section of the bench on wheels and roll that out to the middle of the space. Then just let the extra hang over both sides.
 

icthruu74

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I just built this a few weeks ago. It started out with a plan to organize my air nailers/staplers and accessories for them and evolved into a rolling workbench with space to mount chargers on the side. I did decide to forgo adding a rack to the back to hold pipe clamps.
726C7ED9-36CA-46D2-AD4D-F846DCE8D782_zpsxtxpb0cz.jpeg
 

NUTTSGT

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I just built this a few weeks ago. It started out with a plan to organize my air nailers/staplers and accessories for them and evolved into a rolling workbench with space to mount chargers on the side. I did decide to forgo adding a rack to the back to hold pipe clamps.
726C7ED9-36CA-46D2-AD4D-F846DCE8D782_zpsxtxpb0cz.jpeg

What did you use for the drawer slides ? Something bought locally at a big box store or something more heavy duty ?
 

brooktre

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The next important thing is to make the space flexible. That means making everything movable. Your work table or bench must be on wheels. So should everything else, so you can reconfigure things as needed. The suggestion about using a roller is a good one, as it gives you the "storage" you desire. Bill

Excellent advice. My friend is a professional mechanic and he recently built a garage at his home. He has everything on wheels except his car lift. It’s really impressive to see how functional and versatile that is. Keep it mobile!
 

icthruu74

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What did you use for the drawer slides ? Something bought locally at a big box store or something more heavy duty ?

I got some ball bearing drawer slides from Menards, I think Hickory brand. They've been ok so far and probably would be better if I’d gotten them lined up a little better. And maybe the drawer on the right is slightly overloaded with nails/brads/staples.
 
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James-W

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I don't quite get the need for having 4X4 posts in the corners to hold up the workbench. Unless they plan on parking a car on the workbench why would anyone need such large posts to hold up the workbench? I realize it doesn't hurt anything to have them, it just seems to me like such a big waste to use such strong posts for a workbench that, for most people anyway, probably won't need to support more than a couple hundred pounds or so. I guess if you put an engine on the workbench you would need strong supports, but normally when you work on an engine you mount it to an engine stand. Maybe it is just me that is weird, but I happen think 4X4 posts for legs is a lot of overkill.
 

zcar751

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I don't quite get the need for having 4X4 posts in the corners to hold up the workbench. Unless they plan on parking a car on the workbench why would anyone need such large posts to hold up the workbench? I realize it doesn't hurt anything to have them, it just seems to me like such a big waste to use such strong posts for a workbench that, for most people anyway, probably won't need to support more than a couple hundred pounds or so. I guess if you put an engine on the workbench you would need strong supports, but normally when you work on an engine you mount it to an engine stand. Maybe it is just me that is weird, but I happen think 4X4 posts for legs is a lot of overkill.

To have a solid working surface that you can pound on and pry on you need a strong base. You also want mass that will keep the table in place when you are pounding and prying. I also like to use three layers 3/4 MDF for tops because it is very dense and adds to the mass. That way when I am trying to drive a bearing race out the whole bench is bouncing up and down.
 

NUTTSGT

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I got some ball bearing drawer slides from Menards, I think Hickory brand. They've been ok so far and probably would be better if I’d gotten them lined up a little better. And maybe the drawer on the right is slightly overloaded with nails/brads/staples.

I had used two sets of slides from Menard's and followed their directions. It called for a half inch gap on either side of the drawer. However, I found the plastic brackets on the back of the slides, throws them off. The second one I notched for clearance of the brackets and it appears to work better.
 

bad_idea

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I don't quite get the need for having 4X4 posts in the corners to hold up the workbench. Unless they plan on parking a car on the workbench why would anyone need such large posts to hold up the workbench? I realize it doesn't hurt anything to have them, it just seems to me like such a big waste to use such strong posts for a workbench that, for most people anyway, probably won't need to support more than a couple hundred pounds or so. I guess if you put an engine on the workbench you would need strong supports, but normally when you work on an engine you mount it to an engine stand. Maybe it is just me that is weird, but I happen think 4X4 posts for legs is a lot of overkill.

I build my wooden benches with doubled 2x4s for legs like the image below. It is not my image, I grabbed it from the internet.

05a872c5ea372079b32862c5fc29e08b_preview_featured.jpg


This design transfers all of the load through the wood and the fasteners are only there to hold it together. As stated, you want a solid surface to work on. When hammering something any flex in the bench is wasted energy.
 

f6john

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Dec 13, 2018
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Kentucky
My new to me house came with a grimy steel work bench about 8’ wide. I think it is something I will want to keep and utilize but it will have to wait till spring to drag it out side and pressure wash then paint. I’d include pics but still too new to the forum.
 

maxpat82

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I have 2 stationnary(side by side against the wall) 3'x4' work bench. They are made of 1,5"x1/8" square tube steel frame with a 1,5" epoxy slab on it...they are old university laboratory work top....totally love them...but you must retain yourself to bang too hard on them cause they can chip and I already cracked one when my vise was bolted to it.

My most used one is my 2'x4' steel top one(3/8"thick) on caster. I do pretty much everything on that thing since I can move it around easy.

My dad have a super ordinary 2x4 frame with plywood top and it's been great for the last 30years.(change the top once maybe 10years ago).
If you want it a step above: put those 3/4" rubber mat for truck bed on top of the plywood and then it gets #1 and super cheap too.
 
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Rickht

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I used some cubes that I bought out of a closing dept store, put a plywood top on it, stained it and hung pegboard that I painted black.f32b19eb80a290aecb03283db7fa893a.jpgcaa868cdbfb3458ab06e63c757e24cd8.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Blind1

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A single car space is tough. I’d stick with a rolling 44” cabinet or build an appropriately sized bench on casters for the far wall. Elevated storage on the side walls, and shelves above the bench/rolling tool can.

Depends on what you are doing and if you are keeping a vehicle.
 

ScottsGT

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Old friend years back did wonders with a 1 car garage. At one time it was a photography studio. When he retired, his workshop for RC airplanes. Then woodworking. His secret was his **** retentive organizational skills and ability to spend more time cleaning than working.
 

icthruu74

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I had used two sets of slides from Menard's and followed their directions. It called for a half inch gap on either side of the drawer. However, I found the plastic brackets on the back of the slides, throws them off. The second one I notched for clearance of the brackets and it appears to work better.

I’d like to say it was the slides..but it was entirely my fault with a wrong measurement. The drawer on the left has Masonite spacers between the slide and frame.
 

Psychwarfare

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NJ
I'm probably dealing with a 1.25 car garage but do park a 67 MGB in it. So maybe we're in similar space binds.

I have a 6ft CM workbench from Lowes on the right side long wall, with a 20" deep shelf above it with 2 27" wide CM canopies mounted to it. The miter and table saws are mounted to folding stands and are stored along this wall.

Alone the shirt back wall, I have 2 5 tier shelving units that are around 30ish" wide on either side of a kobalt workbench with pegboard back.

The left long side houses a 3 tier CM tool chest that's 26" wide, a tv mounted to the wall in between that chest and the new 48" kobalt cart with a 41" CM stainless chest sitting on it.

I'd like a deep work table but haven't the room and most of what I do hobby wise is mechanical.

I'd focus on perimeter storage and use eye level and higher storage as possible.

There are some nifty modular DIY workbench ideas out there that you could fold out into your open workspace to do woodworking etc. And then fold up along the wall.

https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/free-workbench-plans-1357147
 

maydaymike

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tez929rr

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If you are looking for a workbench "kit", maybe this can get the job done quickly for you:

Simpson Strong-Tie WBSK Workbench and Shelving Hardware Kit
https://www.strongtie.com/miscellaneousconnectors_woodconnectors/wbsk_kit/p/wbsk

$44.55 @ Home Depot
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Workbench-or-Shelving-Hardware-Kit-WBSK/205177374

You can make it any size you want. Hope this helps. :thumbup:

Great stuff.

I have made a half dozen of those; one 8 footer, one 6 footer, and several four footers. I put pegboard backs on a couple of them, and two of the four footers are on casters. I even built one extra tall with no shelf underneath so that I could store a small tool cart underneath it.
 
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