Lust for Lista
- Thread starter ADSR
- Start date
I would like to get some more of the black drawer snap-in side locks, the bottom six drawers of my box have the standard blank snap-in pieces.
Also, I would like to switch from the plastic label insert drawer pull covers to aluminum.
If that is something you could help me out with please let me know, to me my box would be complete and perfect with those two changes.
Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
We have the end caps in stock. We would be happy to send you out six, our compliments
Lista has three new aluminum handle covers; polished, satin, and black anodized. They are really nice. The attached picture is of a guys shop we designed and installed using those handle covers on dark gray cabinets. It made the cabinets really pop.
Your two banks are the SC format; List $4.12, Garage Journal $3.40 each. For short money you'll be styling.
Joe
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ultgar
Well-known member
I would pour a level pad along the garage side walls for long Lista runs. There weren't a whole lot of leveling options with Lista back when I was installing their cabinets.
(I installed over 500 Lista cabinets between 1996 and 2013....at age 63 and having had 2 hernia surgeries, I just can't do these anymore. I still think Lista makes the best cabinets on the market today.)
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ultgar
Well-known member
The side locks (IDL's) are a must with mobile cabinets, trailer installations and cabinets installed in areas with risk of seismic activity. I would ask my customer if they were left or right handed as these locks are available both ways. If you just order an IDL, it is "right side" (IDL-L is "left side").
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Joe, if I picked up a 10 drawer 40W X 22 deep X 57 high Lista, and it had 2 deep drawers, (I think one is 9 or so and one is maybe 6" deep?) what would it cost to replace those 2 with 2-3" deep drawers? I've no use for many if any really deep drawers so...
Or if anyone has this and wants deep drawers and would be interested in a trade...
I passed on it yesterday, but if I can get to usable (to me) drawers...
Or if anyone has this and wants deep drawers and would be interested in a trade...
I passed on it yesterday, but if I can get to usable (to me) drawers...
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dudutzu905
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2011
- Messages
- 374
one easy way to find out what drawers you can use, is to measure the actual opening, then take out one inch for every drawer you plan on putting in and then divide the rest to the amount of drawers to find out the "official size" of the drawers you need
example: to say you have a 17" opening, you want
4 drawers, 17-4 => 13" divided by four => 3*3" and 1*4"
5 drawers, 17-5 => 12" divided by five => 3*2" and 2*3"
5 drawers, 17-5 => 12" divided by five => 4*2" and 1*4"
hope this helps
must warn you, those 2" drawers are SHALLOW!
Richard Cranium
Well-known member
outlaw, being you already purchased it, would you mind telling us how much you had to pay for it.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Outlawmws
Well-known member
For tools it's more than enough. My current box has 1-1/2" drawers and they work great...
Richard Cranium
Well-known member
Oh, I read it as you had picked up the box.
Depends on the tools I suppose. What did they want for it? I would love to have one like that, not too deep and a good mix of drawers IMHO. Although shipping to SW Ohio might be a bit expensive.
Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
The drawers part numbers are specified by the drawer face height in millimeters. The face is 25 mm (1") more than the drawer capacity. The origins of the Lista cabinets is Switzerland hence the designs are metric but when they opened up Lista USA operations in the 70's they started using inches in their descriptions.
So in your case you have a HS format cabinet which is 40-1/4" on the outside and has 36"W x 18"D drawer interiors.
A 2" capacity drawer has a 3" (75mm) drawer face; Part Number HS75F
A 3" capacity drawer has a 4" (100mm) drawer face; Part Number HS100F
A 4" capacity drawer has a 5" (125mm) drawer face; Part Number HS125F
A 5" capacity drawer has a 6" (150mm) drawer face; Part Number HS150F
A 6" capacity drawer has a 7" (175mm) drawer face; Part Number HS175F
A 7" capacity drawer has a 8" (200mm) drawer face; Part Number HS200F
A 8" capacity drawer has a 9" (225mm) drawer face; Part Number HS225F
A 9" capacity drawer has a 10" (250mm) drawer face; Part Number HS250F
A 10" capacity drawer has a 11" (275mm) drawer face; Part Number HS225F
A 11" capacity drawer has a 12" (300mm) drawer face; Part Number HS250F
Let me know the exact sizes of the drawers you want to swap out. From that we will know how to refill that space with the proper drawer heights.
Joe
cbacres
Well-known member
Joe,
I was wondering if the pulls on the below boxes are still available or something close or something I could retro fit. Black would great also to go with my intended theme when I straighten these out and repaint.
Thanks
Craig
I was wondering if the pulls on the below boxes are still available or something close or something I could retro fit. Black would great also to go with my intended theme when I straighten these out and repaint.
Thanks
Craig
Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
Helpful suggestions. We would attack this from the often misunderstood Metric system; the one that the cabinets are designed under. This also leads us into the correct part number used to specify a drawer.
The cabinet opening is specified in millimeters. A 1350 series cabinet denotes the cabinet opening height in millimeters. The cabinet is actually 100 mm taller with the top (40 mm) and bottom (60 mm) rails; hence a total height of 1450 mm. The drawers part numbers specify the drawer face height in mm, not what height objects it will hold. The drawer storage capacity is 25 mm (1") less than the face height. A drawer with 5" (125 mm) of storage capacity has a 150 mm (6") face height. Drawers are most often referenced in inches, not millimeters.
When configuring a cabinet for drawers we always use millimeters so that the drawer face heights used equal the cabinet capacity. To further this confusion some people specify drawers by the face height and others by the capacity. Rather try to interchange millimeters and inches, we stick with the metric because that is how all of the cabinet and drawer part numbers are specified, using millimeters as part of the part number.
So we would convert 17" to 425 mm. We would then insure that our drawer face heights match the available space and the corresponding part number.
There are numerous options in a 425 mm space. All you need to do is make sure the millimeters specified in the part numbers adds up to 425 mm.
This link shows the various cabinet models and dimensions.
http://www.motorheadextraordinaire.com/content/7-lista-cabinet-dimensions
Hope this helps
Joe
Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
Yes, the Individual Drawer Latches are available in both right and left sides. In addition to the IDL mechanism, Lista has a Lock In - Lock Out latching mechanism we specify in many mobile applications. The LILO is great when you are on a slope and you want the drawer to stay open. I use one of these as a roll out under the belly of our RV. It makes it super easy to roll out my cooler to grab a cool one even if I am parked on a slope.
The guys with the mobile service trucks, the race transporters, and a lot of our movie production support companies use these in their mobile applications.
You should never rely on the central key lock to keep drawers latched shut in a mobile application. I have seen the weight of heavy drawers in a race trailer break the lock bar causing the drawers to open. They should have had either IDL's or LILO's. IDL's can be field fitted, the LILO can not.
Joe
ultgar
Well-known member
I was never really a fan of LILO's but have used them from time to time. Great for pull-out worktables on trailers. Here's an example (not a great picture) from a customer in Colorado.....MW cabinet with a pullout tray & butcher block top sandwiched in between drawers. Worktable can be pulled out and secured via LILO.
Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
Mixed feelings on the individual drawer locking drawers, especially for in the shop even more so if not on wheels. The lock on extension has gotten me a few times. In a mobile aplication I could certaintly see where they are benificial.
Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
If the cabinet is not mobile, then there is no need for individual drawer latches. If it is mobile you really should have some form of automatic drawer latching. If there is no positive drawer latching on a mobile cabinet it could be very dangerous if all of the drawers open at the same time while puching a cabinet about.
The IDL's do not latch out, just the LILO's latch out. If this is an issue for you, you can easily disable the LILO's and put in the Individual Drawer Latches or non-latching handle end cap.
Joe
Banjorear
Well-known member
I would pour a level pad along the garage side walls for long Lista runs. There weren't a whole lot of leveling options with Lista back when I was installing their cabinets.
(I installed over 500 Lista cabinets between 1996 and 2013....at age 63 and having had 2 hernia surgeries, I just can't do these anymore. I still think Lista makes the best cabinets on the market today.)
That is simply perfection. Thanks for sharing,
ultgar
Well-known member
I've done a few West Coast installations.........Bay Area and Seattle Area. All cabinet drawers (even for non-mobile installations) had IDL's and the cabinets were anchored to the floor & wall per code (for Seismic activity risk).
The Lista cabinet lock bar in the back of the cabinet is supposed to allow only one drawer to open at a time. If you give a Lista cabinet a sharp push at the rear of the housing (forces that might occur during an earthquake), multiple drawers will open at the same time and the weight of the fully extended drawers & contents can topple the cabinet. The IDL's will prevent these drawers from opening.
If there is no seismic risk, Joe is correct and there is no need for these drawer latches. SD
Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
When all drawers are closed, all drawers can be opened at the same time. Once one drawer has been opened the lock bar trips locked preventing any other drawer from opening. Once the open drawer is closed, the lock bar flips to the all open position.
When moving a cabinet you must make sure that it is locked. I have personally had all drawers open on my while moving an unlocked cabinet with a pallet jack. Needles to say, it came crashing over turning it into a pile of junk. Luckily the trash was close by.
Joe
trev225
Active member
The over-head cabinets are all lista as well as the wide cabinet in the middle. The skinnier drawered cabinet and workbench height cabinets are Vidmar. Sorry for the crappy picture... not very many good angles in my little garage
Outlawmws
Well-known member
So the "trick" is to open the top drawer stick in a 4x4 so it cant close, and tape it closed...
Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
So the "trick" is to open the top drawer stick in a 4x4 so it cant close, and tape it closed...
I'm not sure what you are saying with your reply. What "trick" are you referring to? I was just trying to explain how the lock system worked. Did I miss something in the explanation?
Thanks,
Joe
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Sorry, I wasn't very explicit. if you wanted to roll one of these from one spot in a garage to another, slightly opening one drawer and securing it will lock the others so they won't roll out...
Crude, but works...
Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
Now I get it. If the key was missing and there were no IDL or LILO latches, that would work for sure. Like you say, a little crude but when ingenuity solves a problem, that's great.
I like it ....
Linda@Lista
Well-known member
The over-head cabinets are all lista as well as the wide cabinet in the middle. The skinnier drawered cabinet and workbench height cabinets are Vidmar. Sorry for the crappy picture... not very many good angles in my little garage
@trev225 sweet photo! Thanks for sharing.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
"If there is no seismic risk, Joe is correct and there is no need for these drawer latches. "
Purposely purchased all mine without latches. It would drive me crazy unlatching.
The other risk I see is if you have young kids, even a smaller Lista or Vidmar could kill if they go over on a child.
If I run into cut pieces of 1" plate steel I plan to load the bottom of my Vidmars with a few hundred pounds in the bottom back half.
Purposely purchased all mine without latches. It would drive me crazy unlatching.
The other risk I see is if you have young kids, even a smaller Lista or Vidmar could kill if they go over on a child.
If I run into cut pieces of 1" plate steel I plan to load the bottom of my Vidmars with a few hundred pounds in the bottom back half.
Mgnu
Well-known member
I should not have opened this thread again, now I want more!
Joe - I'll be calling you next week. I need a new lock and key for an older cabinet I have. The key code on the label inside is apparently wrong, so I have a useless extra key. Anyone need it?
Joe - I'll be calling you next week. I need a new lock and key for an older cabinet I have. The key code on the label inside is apparently wrong, so I have a useless extra key. Anyone need it?
Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
You can do a lot in the $6-$10K area. A big Lista setup is actually quite reasonable in price when compared to any other premium brand.
Joe
View attachment 352597
Driving down the highway the other day I spot a 60" cab in the back of some dudes truck. Flag him down and convince him to sell it to me. It wasn't hard as he just bought it 10 minutes prior and already had buyers remorse. He even delivered it. $200. 60" x 60" x 30" Vidmar
Damn Dave!! Is the bottom a drawer or a flip up door for a open compartment? Good power tools storage.
jeepinerdeep
Well-known member
Finally got my second unit.....but we are currently separated by a blizzard and 8 miles. It's stashed at my buddies shop where he received it on Friday morning, hopefully we can get it Sunday evening.
Well that's almost kickass. Lets see, 8 miles in blizzard conditions..............I'd risk my life for it.
Glad it finally got here bud!.
Back to something Joe keeps preaching about for making a mobile cart out of a regular box. Just a week ago I was moving my 47" around on the shipping pallet with my pallet jack and whatta ya know, every flipping drawer opened all at once.
Luckily I've been watching for that cause of Joe's warnings and caught it before it got harry.
So today I picked up a matching mobile cart to my other collection. I'm finally done and can get going on my project.
jeepinerdeep
Well-known member
Well that's almost kickass. Lets see, 8 miles in blizzard conditions..............I'd risk my life for it.
Glad it finally got here bud!.
Back to something Joe keeps preaching about for making a mobile cart out of a regular box. Just a week ago I was moving my 47" around on the shipping pallet with my pallet jack and whatta ya know, every flipping drawer opened all at once.
Luckily I've been watching for that cause of Joe's warnings and caught it before it got harry.
So today I picked up a matching mobile cart to my other collection. I'm finally done and can get going on my project.
Can't wait
for both reuniting with my box, and you finishing your project !Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
Well that's almost kickass. Lets see, 8 miles in blizzard conditions..............I'd risk my life for it.
Glad it finally got here bud!.
Back to something Joe keeps preaching about for making a mobile cart out of a regular box. Just a week ago I was moving my 47" around on the shipping pallet with my pallet jack and whatta ya know, every flipping drawer opened all at once.
Luckily I've been watching for that cause of Joe's warnings and caught it before it got harry.
So today I picked up a matching mobile cart to my other collection. I'm finally done and can get going on my project.
I can't stress enough that when moving ANY toolbox to check that the drawers are locked. Just this past Thursday while at Lista we just started to move a drawer cabinet when the light bulb came on and we stopped to check the drawers. Wouldn't you know they were unlocked.
All Lista cabinets are supposed to be locked before they are packed and shipped but occasionally they slip. I have unpacked boxes that were not unlocked. We were doing a big install at a Toyota dealership and on these big jobs the cabinets ship with the lock core uninstalled so we can order them properly per work area. With the lock core our you can use a flat bade screwdriver to still lock the cabinet. My guys were moving a big toolbox and the drawers opened up. Needless to say, that box was junk when it flipped over. Luckily nobody got hurt.
Joe
pcmeiners
Well-known member
To add....
Had a 59" Vidmar on my truck, locked it, left the key in ( not to bright)... well a bump unlocked it, 4 draws flew out the back, luckily I had no traffic behind me. Personal I do not trust the locking mechanism strength, now I run cargo strap, top to bottom. I would take the same precaution with any cabinet.
Had a 59" Vidmar on my truck, locked it, left the key in ( not to bright)... well a bump unlocked it, 4 draws flew out the back, luckily I had no traffic behind me. Personal I do not trust the locking mechanism strength, now I run cargo strap, top to bottom. I would take the same precaution with any cabinet.
Motorhead Extraordinaire
Well-known member
Even with a key lock bumps and vibrations can play havoc. I've seen loaded up drawers break lock bars mountings due to heavy strain and vibrations. A cargo strap is excellent for the occasional need, as in moving a cabinet from place to place. Good thing nobody was behind you and got hurt.
Joe