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MaxJax Group Buy Reminder..

UPSHIFT

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Simi Valley, CA
GJ Members,

In appreciation of the continued Support of GJ Members Dannmar is having another Group Buy for the MaxJax on July 19th for $1800.00 Delivered in the Continental US. As a bonus we will include the Motorcycle addaptor or a free 8 Gal oil Drain depending on your choice. Please call Rudy Muro at 877-432-6627 X 105 if you are intersted or have any questions.

Thanks as Always,

Gabe
Dannmar
 
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HRM

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Jul 18, 2010
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I had to stop lurking for this. I was just looking on northern tool, saw a review which pointed here and bingo, timing is everything.
 

mondols1

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Jun 22, 2009
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i see that i should have been more specific.

is the deliverly thats included in the $1,800 total price to the physical address of my choice or is it to the nearest terminal?
 

DogP

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Long time lurker here too. When I talked to Rudy about this last week, he said that's delivered to a commercial loading dock, or you can pick it up at a terminal. From other threads I've read, I believe it's an extra $100 for liftgate service (for residential).

I'll be having mine delivered to work... it's cheaper, plus I don't have to take the day off waiting for it to arrive (it always seems that they say it'll be delivered between 8 and 4, and then show up at 4:30 :p ).

Pat
 

blklegend

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Jun 22, 2009
Messages
107
I agree the price for the 6" adapters should have a group buy price, cause the price for each is insane...

Did you ever get the uneven lifting fixed?
 

regguy1

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I agree the price for the 6" adapters should have a group buy price, cause the price for each is insane...

Did you ever get the uneven lifting fixed?

How much are the 6" adapters?

At work I've always had an assortment of 2x4 and 4x4 blocks to use on top of the pads, some vehicles have uneven lift points and you can level things out with the wood blocks....also if it has those damn running boards you need to block up on top the pad so the lift arm won't hit the RB :)

I ordered a MaxJax this morning for use at home ... hope I like it ??
 

blklegend

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Jun 22, 2009
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I ordered it this afternoon. I can't wait to use it. The 6" adapters are 27 bucks each.
 

DogP

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I ordered mine this morning... he said it'd be here (east coast) early next week! I hate to complain about fast shipping, but my garage isn't ready for it yet... it's gonna be torture having it, but not being able to use it ;) . But, I guess this is motivation to get the garage ready. I really can't wait though... I got the rolling seat, motorcycle adapter, and oil drain... I figured I might as well get it all and save from shipping later :) .

Pat
 

regguy1

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How much are the 6" adapters?

At work I've always had an assortment of 2x4 and 4x4 blocks to use on top of the pads, some vehicles have uneven lift points and you can level things out with the wood blocks....also if it has those damn running boards you need to block up on top the pad so the lift arm won't hit the RB :)

I ordered a MaxJax this morning for use at home ... hope I like it ??


I've got the spot all picked out for it :)
 

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richashley

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Ordered mine this afternoon. Even though I'm using the money from selling the dirt bike and ATV, I'm still feeling guilty since my daughter's Auburn tuition bill arrived yesterday. But since my wife decided we had to have a pond and new patio where the above ground pool used to be, I didn't feel guilty enough not to order it!
 

DogP

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I've got the spot all picked out for it :)

Looks nice! The floor is the next step for me... well, after moving all the stuff in there somewhere else so I can actually see the floor ;) .

Pat
 

dmeadow

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Houston, Texas
I ordered it this afternoon. I can't wait to use it. The 6" adapters are 27 bucks each.

Where do you see those listed? I've looked on several websites and I can't find any accessories listed online.

I think the price may have come down some, perhaps due from earlier griping on this board...
 

blklegend

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Where do you see those listed? I've looked on several websites and I can't find any accessories listed online.

I think the price may have come down some, perhaps due from earlier griping on this board...

Its not listed, you have to call them. I got the price directly from them yesterday, do I know it has not come down..
 
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richashley

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Mine was delivered Friday morning to a friend's business in Cleveland (he's got a forklift). Picked it up yesterday morning and unpacked it. Everything looks good except for a few rub marks, but they included touch up paint. I've got a couple home projects to complete before I tackle the install, but I'm looking forward to it.
 

Chevy Guy

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Central Jersey
Mine was delivered Friday morning to a friend's business in Cleveland (he's got a forklift). Picked it up yesterday morning and unpacked it. Everything looks good except for a few rub marks, but they included touch up paint. I've got a couple home projects to complete before I tackle the install, but I'm looking forward to it.

Do you think someone with no forklift or special equipment can take delivery of this lift? I would have no choice but to get it delivered to my home.

Thanks
 

blklegend

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Chevy Guy, normally its just that oneday but give them a call to find out if they will still honor that price.. Just an FYI its an extra $130 bucks for residential delivery. I am in Central Jersey also.
 

richashley

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I don't think you can move it without a forklift or pallet jack. We used the forklift to put it on my 4'x8' trailer and I brought it home with that. At my garage, I disassembled the package (the uprights are bolted to two metal frames), and with help from my 15 yr. old son put the wheels on the uprights and rolled them into the garage. As long as the residential delivery includes dropping it someplace you can take the package apart, you'll be OK. But it's not something you and a buddy are going to pick up and move as it's delivered.
 
OP
U

UPSHIFT

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Simi Valley, CA
Do you think someone with no forklift or special equipment can take delivery of this lift? I would have no choice but to get it delivered to my home.

Thanks

Chevy Guy,

We can delivery it on a Liftgate Truck at your home, call Rudy @ 800-261-7729 for exact price. I believe it is less than $130.00.

Thanks,

Gabe
Dannmar
 

38Chevy454

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On the first round I got mine and picked it up at the truck dock, they used a forklift and put it on my COE flatbed. At home I unpacked it on the flatbed, and unloaded it all by myself. You can not unload it as packaged up without a forklift or some other crane method. The individual pieces can be handled by one person, just be careful of pinch points and weight. The side rails are the heavy pieces.
 

DogP

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I got mine today... I had it delivered to work, figuring that the receiving guys could use the forklift to unload and help load into my van. Well... the truck got there at 5PM and the receiving guys had already left. DOH!

So, I rounded up a few coworkers and headed to the loading dock. Luckily the dock is one of those hydraulic ones, so we just raised it up to the truck level, slid the package onto the dock, then lowered the dock to my van level and slid it into there. With 4 people it was still pretty tough... and I'm REALLY glad the truck driver was really helpful with getting it unloaded AND loaded. Unfortunately, I didn't have any cash, or I would have certainly tipped him :( . I'm buying the guys at work lunch tomorrow :p .

But yeah, once I got it home, I just popped off the straps, pulled off the cardboard and plastic wrap and unloaded piece by piece, which were all very easily managable. The last two things which were bolted to the metal frame were the two arms, and I just unbolted them and stood them up, then grabbed my handtruck and took them into the garage. If I was to do it again, I would have disassembled it on the loading dock and loaded it piece by piece into my van. You need two large wrenches (or channellocks) to undo the bolts, and tin snips to cut off the straps (those are some tough straps!).

Unfortunately, mine had one part damaged in shipping (at least that I've found so far). The spring loaded release rod on the bottom of the arm is bent. It still moves, but doesn't bottom out on the bottom plate. It shouldn't be too difficult to replace (I'll call Dannmar in the morning). And like richashley, mine had some paint damage, but nothing worth worrying about. Also, I thought I had ordered a rolling work seat, but I didn't see it in the shipment... I'll have to check the packing list to see if it was supposed to be there (I assume not, since there didn't appear to be anything missing).

Overall, it looks very nice though... hopefully I'll be able to get it set up in a month or so and give it a try! I've still gotta run electrical to the garage, and I'd like to put down an epoxy floor beforehand. BTW, attached are some pics of it in my van, and the damaged rod. Hopefully this will give you guys an idea of what you're in for when you go to unload and load one of these.

Edit: Yep, I just checked the packing slip and it shows that the rolling work seat was backordered.

Pat
 

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BirdRacer

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I got mine today... I had it delivered to work, figuring that the receiving guys could use the forklift to unload and help load into my van. Well... the truck got there at 5PM and the receiving guys had already left. DOH!

So, I rounded up a few coworkers and headed to the loading dock. Luckily the dock is one of those hydraulic ones, so we just raised it up to the truck level, slid the package onto the dock, then lowered the dock to my van level and slid it into there. With 4 people it was still pretty tough... and I'm REALLY glad the truck driver was really helpful with getting it unloaded AND loaded. Unfortunately, I didn't have any cash, or I would have certainly tipped him :( . I'm buying the guys at work lunch tomorrow :p .

But yeah, once I got it home, I just popped off the straps, pulled off the cardboard and plastic wrap and unloaded piece by piece, which were all very easily managable. The last two things which were bolted to the metal frame were the two arms, and I just unbolted them and stood them up, then grabbed my handtruck and took them into the garage. If I was to do it again, I would have disassembled it on the loading dock and loaded it piece by piece into my van. You need two large wrenches (or channellocks) to undo the bolts, and tin snips to cut off the straps (those are some tough straps!).

Unfortunately, mine had one part damaged in shipping (at least that I've found so far). The spring loaded release rod on the bottom of the arm is bent. It still moves, but doesn't bottom out on the bottom plate. It shouldn't be too difficult to replace (I'll call Dannmar in the morning). And like richashley, mine had some paint damage, but nothing worth worrying about. Also, I thought I had ordered a rolling work seat, but I didn't see it in the shipment... I'll have to check the packing list to see if it was supposed to be there (I assume not, since there didn't appear to be anything missing).

Overall, it looks very nice though... hopefully I'll be able to get it set up in a month or so and give it a try! I've still gotta run electrical to the garage, and I'd like to put down an epoxy floor beforehand. BTW, attached are some pics of it in my van, and the damaged rod. Hopefully this will give you guys an idea of what you're in for when you go to unload and load one of these.

Edit: Yep, I just checked the packing slip and it shows that the rolling work seat was backordered.

Pat


It fits in the back of a Chrysler Mini-Van? :shocking:
 

regguy1

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I've got the spot all picked out for it :)

Here's the update, I've got the lift installed and running. It looks like a nice unit. The power unit is quieter than I thought it would be. Installation was straight forward.

I think setting of the anchors is the most critical part of the installation procedure. A couple of things I'll mention from my experience of this one installation. Let me say this first, I'm not a pro lift installer and the following are my opinions only. Drill the holes as per instructions. Do a through job of cleaning the holes. Even though the supplied anchors (Wej-It PD58) are not specificly epoxy style units I'd recommend using a good quality epoxy for additional integrity of anchor bond to concrete. I coated the hole and the exterior of anchors before driving them in. Drive them the 5/8" below concrete as instructions call for, I wouldn't go less.

Now thread the sacraficial bolt with washer and nut finger tight into the anchor, hold the bolt head (you do not want the anchor to rotate in the hole) and tighten the nut to set the anchor, the lift instruction booklet says tighen until anchor is flush with the concrete surface.....The instructions that came in the box of anchors say no more than 4 turns for the 5/8" bolts size. I found that at about 3 turns I could feel the anchors bite hard into the concrete even though they were still 1/8" -3/16" below the surface of floor. I think it's fine (and even preferable) to leave them slightly down because when you tighen the bolts to the base plate if the anchor is not holding properly you'll realize it when torquing the bolts, but with the anchor flush it can contact the bottom of the base plate and feel tight even though not fully anchored in the hole.

Page 13 step 14 of the lift installation manual tells you to install anchor bolts to base plate and tighten 3 to 3 3/4 turns. I believe this is in error, the anchors have already been set with the bolt and nut procedure. These bolts should be torqued betweem 70-95 Ft Lbs according to Wej-it (95) and Dannmar (70).

I found it impossible to get 3+ turns after anchors were set and it caused a couple anchors to pull up (perhaps they rotated in the hole and lost grip ?) and I have to replace them.

I like the lift, it will be very useful in my shop.

I hope this is helpful.
 

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dmeadow

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Great stuff, regguy1!! Thanks very much for providing this. Hopefully Gabe will respond on the 3+ turns issue. Unless the base plate isn't flush to the concrete I don't see how you would get three full turns on a bolt after tightening them to the base plate? Of course, I haven't got my lift, yet, so I don't know what all this looks like.

I like the idea of using the epoxy, though it concerns me that you were able to pull up some anchors after they were set. Maybe it is better to have the anchors flush with the concrete so that doesn't happen? I understand your concern about tightening against the top of the anchor instead of the concrete, but maybe you want the bolt pushing down into the anchor and spreading it for grip, rather than using its force to pull up on the anchor and perhaps dislodging it?

Thanks again!
 

regguy1

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Great stuff, regguy1!! Thanks very much for providing this. Hopefully Gabe will respond on the 3+ turns issue. Unless the base plate isn't flush to the concrete I don't see how you would get three full turns on a bolt after tightening them to the base plate? Of course, I haven't got my lift, yet, so I don't know what all this looks like.

I like the idea of using the epoxy, though it concerns me that you were able to pull up some anchors after they were set. Maybe it is better to have the anchors flush with the concrete so that doesn't happen? I understand your concern about tightening against the top of the anchor instead of the concrete, but maybe you want the bolt pushing down into the anchor and spreading it for grip, rather than using its force to pull up on the anchor and perhaps dislodging it?

Thanks again!

NO, The holding power of the anchor is it's bite into the hole. If it's not "biting" hard in the hole it's not doing the job and clamping the anchor between the base and the bolt isn't providing the holding power, also with the anchor slightly below the surface you can remove the bolt and see if it has pulled up any...with flush set you'll never know if there's a problem. The anchor pull up I believe was from me trying to do the 3+ turns after anchors were set, I probably had to put 300 Ft Lbs on them to try and get that much rotation and damaged the installation as a result. The pull up anchors weren't epoxyed, I did this on the second post after the trouble with first side, now I'll redo the problem ones with epoxy. The bolts don't spread the anchors they wedge into the hole as they pull up . Just my opinion :)
 
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DogP

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It fits in the back of a Chrysler Mini-Van? :shocking:

Heheheheh... yeah. I wouldn't recommend it if you can avoid it, since it's pretty tough to slide in since you can't stand up and lift/slide... but with a couple people kneeling in the van and a couple people outside, you can lift and slide a little bit at a time. It would have been no problem at all if I would have disassembled it on the loading dock though.

I didn't have much choice though... it was the minivan or my low riding 4 cyl S-10. The S-10 at stock height probably wouldn't be happy hauling it, but the truck dropped 5 inches DEFINITELY wouldn't :p . I figured the minivan can haul 5 adults (and seats) in the back without any problem, so 880lbs should be no problem (and wasn't).

regguy1: Thanks for the pics and info... that looks great, and I'm sure it'll be very helpful info for my install. BTW, about how long did the install take?

Pat
 

weicm3

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Sep 5, 2008
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143
FYI: These stands would be a perfect accessory for the MaxJax lift.
Handy for steadying the car, holding up exhaust systems, lifting up trans to remove crossmember, suspension work...etc.

Maybe Dannmar should carry these and offer them to lift buyers.


http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HT52008&PhotoNumber=4#largerphoto

If Dannmar starts selling that stand as an option along with lift purchase, their competitors will criticize safety and reliability of their lift.
 

DogP

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Messages
39
If Dannmar starts selling that stand as an option along with lift purchase, their competitors will criticize safety and reliability of their lift.

I think those would be for lifting/holding parts, not the vehicle... like for supporting a differential as you unbolt it from the rest of the vehicle. I'm thinking of checking one out at Harbor Freight ( http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-underhoist-safety-stand-41860.html ), though I don't know if they actually have them in stock at the local store. It says the max height is 93.5", but I'm not sure what the minimum height is.

Pat
 

dmeadow

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There's another Maxjax thread somewhere discussing using those stands. Someone bought them because they were nervous about the MaxJax's anchors and he uses them as safety devices. I think the MaxJax folks responded with the specifications on the anchors to demonstrate he didn't have anything to worry about. Search for it if you're interested.

I can see where those jackstands can come in handy for holding up exhaust stuff, etc. If you are going to remove or move a transmission from underneath, though, you might want to get one of these:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200318923_200318923
 

regguy1

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I think those would be for lifting/holding parts, not the vehicle... like for supporting a differential as you unbolt it from the rest of the vehicle. I'm thinking of checking one out at Harbor Freight ( http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-underhoist-safety-stand-41860.html ), though I don't know if they actually have them in stock at the local store. It says the max height is 93.5", but I'm not sure what the minimum height is.

Pat

Those are too high for the MaxJax lift. The Greg Smith Equipment ones are perfect 30" to 53" for MaxJax, plus they have have threaded top piece so you can tighten it up to proper tension for your job.

That trans jack is also too high for MaxJax, 34" min height only leaves 12-13" to drop trans...not enough. You'll need a floor model trans jack for the MJ lift.

Like this style: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200305489_200305489
 
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dmeadow

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Sometimes having a 3/4 ton pickup lying around is downright handy...

Don't know if I'll get to the install this weekend, the task list is kinda long and I've (ironically) got to get a car off of its jacks to move it out of the way.
 

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regguy1

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