Maxjax Installs: Post Here

[skamp]

I think if you look at the directions for the anchors, they say do not use a pilot bit.If you egg out the hole you could end up with a very dangerous situation.Why don't you make up a steel template with 6" pcs. of 7/8"ID steel tubing welded to a pc of 1/8" plate.Pin it down with a couple of 1/4" pins and the tubes will hold your bit nice and straight.Sort of along the lines of this JR Smith setting gauge we used to use in wall hung toilet rough-ins.If I get 1 of these lifts I will make up a template for drilling.If you don't have to think or worry about placing the holes you can be much more accurate in your work!

I think it would be a little more complicated as the SDS bit end is wider than the shank. For instance the bit head (say first .50" of the bit) is a bit wider than 7/8" (my bosch is .906) and the shank is smaller than 7/8" (.826). If you use a tube with a single ID I think you would still get some wobble as the shank can move within the tube as soon as the bit head exits the bottom of the tube hole. It may be best to use a slightly bigger ID tube and after inserting the drill bit in the tube insert a sleeve that decreases the ID of the tube to match the diameter of the shank part of the bit, almost like a bearing. I hope that makes sense.

I think having something like this would be a huge advantage for installation. I just ordered my MaxJax yesterday. I did a test hole over the weekend and I was not perfectly perpendicular and it was hard to keep the bit straight with all that movement of the hammer drill. I have a post tensioned slab and really do not want to cut out sections, although my column placement is within a 4' x 4' area for each column so could cut out the concrete as a last resort.

A jig like this would help me get it right the 1st time. I have thought about making a jig like you mentioned out of 3/4" plywood on the bottom to allow for the larger bit head. On top of that would be 2x12 (maybe even 2 2x12’s) bored to the exact diameter of the bit shank. I would use steel dowels or something to align the plywood and 2x12. I position the plywood in place on the concrete and duct tape or use industrial 2 sided tape to hold it down so it stays in the same place through all 5 holes. For each hole I would place the drill bit in the plywood, slide the 2x12 down and mate it to the plywood via the dowels. I would of course make the plywood and 2x12 template from the column base. Thoughts?

Steve

 

[DonIvey]

Any chance anyone has measured the package that you have to pick up at Conway trucking containing the lift. I am not sure it will fit in the rear of my minivan, and may need to borrow a truck. Dimensions would be helpful. Thanks,

Don Ivey
Smithfield, NC

 

[les_garten]

Any chance anyone has measured the package that you have to pick up at Conway trucking containing the lift. I am not sure it will fit in the rear of my minivan, and may need to borrow a truck. Dimensions would be helpful. Thanks,

Don Ivey
Smithfield, NC

I don't see how you get this in and out of a mini van without tearing up the mini van.

Weight is near 900#s.

The metal that makes up the frame is rough and sharp in places. Be careful handling, extreme cut hazard. I rented a 5x9 U haul trailer. Be careful hauling it, basics physics rules apply with regards to mass and inertia, when turning, hitting the gas and braking.

If you decide to haul it in a mini van, let us know how that works out for ya.

 

[Nogglefish]

I don't see how you get this in and out of a mini van without tearing up the mini van.

Weight is near 900#s.

The metal that makes up the frame is rough and sharp in places. Be careful handling, extreme cut hazard. I rented a 5x9 U haul trailer. Be careful hauling it, basics physics rules apply with regards to mass and inertia, when turning, hitting the gas and braking.

If you decide to haul it in a mini van, let us know how that works out for ya.

I think someone posted about picking one up in a fold-flat seats type minivan but I would not suggest it.

 

[olytdi]

I want to see the before and after photos!

 

[DonIvey]

Well, first ofall,the Ford Aerostar has no seats, so there is a pretty good size floor space (4'W by 4'8" tall, by 8' long). I've contacted the freight terminal to get dimensions of the package, to decide if it will fit. The rear door may be a problem as the forklift may not be able to come forward far enough to get the thing in all the way. It's just a lot easier if I can use my own vehicle rather than borrowing or renting a trailer out here in the boonies. We'll see.

Don Ivey
'87 Carrera

 

[skamp]

Mine gets delivered today. Hopefully I can get this installed over the weekend. I am looking forward to doing this. I was wondering if anyone has mounted the columns over racedeck. My plan was to cut the tiles to the base of the columns and cut off the tabs so I can remove and reinstall the tiles quickly when I use the lift. If I can install over the racedeck I can drill holes through the tiles and would be a little cleaner. Anyone do this yet?

Steve

 

[les_garten]

Well, first ofall,the Ford Aerostar has no seats, so there is a pretty good size floor space (4'W by 4'8" tall, by 8' long). I've contacted the freight terminal to get dimensions of the package, to decide if it will fit. The rear door may be a problem as the forklift may not be able to come forward far enough to get the thing in all the way. It's just a lot easier if I can use my own vehicle rather than borrowing or renting a trailer out here in the boonies. We'll see.

Don Ivey
'87 Carrera

Let us know the width you use for your Porsche, I'm particularly interested in this measurement.

 

[les_garten]

Mine gets delivered today. Hopefully I can get this installed over the weekend. I am looking forward to doing this. I was wondering if anyone has mounted the columns over racedeck. My plan was to cut the tiles to the base of the columns and cut off the tabs so I can remove and reinstall the tiles quickly when I use the lift. If I can install over the racedeck I can drill holes through the tiles and would be a little cleaner. Anyone do this yet?

Steve

I have Racedeck and I'm installing under it. I don't think anyone would recommend a 2 post jack on top of the racedeck.

 

[DonIvey]

Let us know the width you use for your Porsche, I'm particularly interested in this measurement.

Just talked to terminal guy and he says it would be difficult to load it into the van with the rear door in the way, so that's out. I'll just have to borrow a truck. I will let you know about the width once i do it, but it might be some time before that happens.

Don

 

[skamp]

I have Racedeck and I'm installing under it. I don't think anyone would recommend a 2 post jack on top of the racedeck.

Yea, I thought the same but it looks like someone has done it. See this post.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=463753&postcount=181

Also see this post from RaceDeck.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114462

Even with these posts I still think I am with you and will trim around the columns and install direct to the concrete.

Steve

 

[les_garten]

Yea, I thought the same but it looks like someone has done it. See this post.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=463753&postcount=181

Also see this post from RaceDeck.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114462

Even with these posts I still think I am with you and will trim around the columns and install direct to the concrete.

Steve

I didn't see the detail on post count on the first thread you have. If we had a 4 post, it would be no problem. But 2 post needs to be cinched down.

 

[mikeyr]

I have both a 4-post and as of Wednesday a MaxJax, the 4-post sits directly on my Racedeck but I will be cutting out the tiles for the MaxJax, I am already not feeling safe about being under a 2-post and will take no chances and bolt it right to the concrete. I planned on cutting the tiles to fit around the post and just slide the tiles back in when the MaxJax is not bolted down.

 

[les_garten]

What are you guys using for Column lubricant?

I think the manual says WD-40, must be a Typo!

 

[IONH]

How do you guys like the just under 4 feet of clearance at full lift?

 

[les_garten]

How do you guys like the just under 4 feet of clearance at full lift?

I've got mine in test mode right now(playing with it unbolted while I wait for a drill bit).

I rolled around imagining a car on it.

But there is no other choice if you have 8' Ceilings. So it's roll around on a stool or crawl around on your back like a turtle upside down.

No brainer really!

 

[groa944]

Well, first ofall,the Ford Aerostar has no seats, so there is a pretty good size floor space (4'W by 4'8" tall, by 8' long). I've contacted the freight terminal to get dimensions of the package, to decide if it will fit. The rear door may be a problem as the forklift may not be able to come forward far enough to get the thing in all the way. It's just a lot easier if I can use my own vehicle rather than borrowing or renting a trailer out here in the boonies. We'll see.

Don Ivey
'87 Carrera

I considered using an aerostar to get mine, and thankfully I did not (I used a rental Home Depot full size van). It's an awkward package for the terminal guys to pick up, so it is very difficult for a fork truck to load it lengthwise into a vehicle. A trailer that could be loaded from the side would be best by far. The overhead rear door on an aerostar would make it very difficult for the fork truck to get near to the tailgate, and the sharp edges of the framing will destroy the inside of the van as it's loaded in.

The maxjax is packaged in a long narrow assembly and the metal framing is not sturdy enough to pick up the package from the end. the driver I had picked it up diagonally through the middle and laid it in. Then he had to push the lift into the van with the fork truck. It was very awkward.

If you're planning on borrowing a truck, make sure you have some method of protecting the bed rails and some mats or blankets in the bottom of the bed. If I were doing it again, I'd get a home depot truck. Their trucks have drop sides and it would make it very simple to load the lift onto. Also they're cheap to rent. The most difficult part about using a home depot truck would be unloading the lift, as the truck bed is pretty high off of the ground.

 

[IONH]

I've got mine in test mode right now(playing with it unbolted while I wait for a drill bit).

I rolled around imagining a car on it.

But there is no other choice if you have 8' Ceilings. So it's roll around on a stool or crawl around on your back like a turtle upside down.

No brainer really!

I just sold my 6000lb scissor lift because it took up too much floor space. I agree that this is a great portable option.

 

[les_garten]

I rented a 5x9 Uhaul Trailer

The lift guy had some problems playing around with straps and stuff but finally got it in the uhaul.

Brought it home, me and my wife grabbed it and yanked it straight down the ramp of the Uhaul. The Uhaul corrugated metal makes this thing slide real fast and easyonce you get it moving a little. Build up some speed and straight down the ramp it goes and coasts out to the driveway. Unbolted the ends and that was it. We did it and we're Old, Fat and out of shape! Big advantage here, the Uhaul is low and scratches don't hurt it. Cost $25 or something like that.

The corrugated Uhaul also allows it to slide around easily while you are driving. Unbelievably easy. In hindsight, I would have roped it down a little.

 

[mikeyr]

How do you guys like the just under 4 feet of clearance at full lift?

I think it will be fine, I would prefer to stand like I do under the 4-post and I do have the height for a 2-post but I wanted to be able to put this in the garage for pulling motors (motor drops out the bottom) and also put it in the driveway for quick work, that Green car you see on the lift in the pic above is pretty much there all the time, a quick oil change means moving out 2 cars and the MaxJax in the driveway will be quicker/easier. I can't pull the motor on the 4-post because the ramps get in the way so the MaxJax will allow that, pulling things like gearboxes will still be done on the 4-post where I can stand under it.

I will know how it really is to sit and work in the morning, daughter's boyfriend's BMW will be the first thing on the lift when we are done installing the MaxJax.

 

[AbitNutz]

I'm so confused I think I need counseling and Xanex. I've gone back and forth from a 40x40x14 Morton steel building with a 6" rebar floor and Perma-Columns and a Mohawk lift to clearing out my garage and putting in a MaxJax. The difference between $40,000 and a mortgage and writing a check for a couple of grand is torturous. And there's no in between. I have an RV and a sailboat so if I'm going to jump off this cliff, the cliff should be high enough up to hold all my ****.
You don't live forever but my soul is cheap.

Anyone else go loony about stuff like this?

 

[73 Mustang Bill]

Not mail order but my Lowes has both the 5/8 and 7/8" sizes in stock. They are the Bosch SDS ones. They are like $16 and $25 respectively.

Steve

I bought my Bosche bits off of EBay. At $5 each, I bought 2, just in case. With shipping, $15.50 for 2.

 

[73 Mustang Bill]

(I used a rental Home Depot full size van).

I rented the HD truck once to pick up a smalll hot tub. Rental price was great, but the damn thing got like 4 mpg, and i was really easy on it. It had 17,000 mile on it, and I suspect never had any service, like a clean air filter. Next time I rent their truck, I'm either pulling the air filter, or replacing it wil a clean one. I'm sure I'll be many dollars ahead if I got FIVE mpg.

 

[73 Mustang Bill]

Wachuko, how is the Maxjax on your tile floor? Any problems/issues?

Looks like he didn't see your question, but allow me to answer that. I talked with him onlone last year, because he lives near me, and I was interested in his MaxJax (and he was interested in my Lotus). I finally got over tehre to see him this past weekend. HIs tile floor was holding up great under what appears to be some heavy-duty use. He said it was the cheap porcelin tile from HD, porcelin so that it's a consistent color thoughout, in case you chip one. He had several sets of holes drilled, and said he didn't have any problem with any of them. If/when he moves, he can just pop a couple tiles out and replace them with new tiles. He uses a pressure washer to clean up once in a while. It looked great out there.

 

[les_garten]

Looks like he didn't see your question, but allow me to answer that. I talked with him onlone last year, because he lives near me, and I was interested in his MaxJax (and he was interested in my Lotus). I finally got over tehre to see him this past weekend. HIs tile floor was holding up great under what appears to be some heavy-duty use. He said it was the cheap ceramic tile from HD, ceramic so that it's a consistent color thoughout, in case you chip one. He had several sets of holes drilled, and said he didn't have any problem with any of them. If/when he moves, he can just pop a couple tiles out and replace them with new tiles. He uses a pressure washer to clean up once in a while. It looked great out there.

Ceramic is usually just a coat on top, Porcelain is the same all the way thru I believe. Porcelain is what you want for a garage.

 

[73 Mustang Bill]

Ceramic is usually just a coat on top, Porcelain is the same all the way thru I believe. Porcelain is what you want for a garage.

Yeah, sorry. Got those two switched.

 

[les_garten]

Yeah, sorry. Got those two switched.

No Problem, Porcelain is usually on sale cheap at HD or Lowes.

I would get small tiles for the garage, like 12x12. Makes them easier to "set" on a floor that may be sloped, and easier to fully bed into the thinset on a garage floor. More forgiving of a floor that is not perfectly flat.

 

[abstamaria]

Mustang Bill, do I understand correctly that Wachuko drilled through the tiles and that the posts sit on the tiles?

Andy

 

[skamp]

Mustang Bill, do I understand correctly that Wachuko drilled through the tiles and that the posts sit on the tiles?

Andy

Yes he did. See this post:

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=797142#post797138

Steve

 

[73 Mustang Bill]

Yeah, I can confirm that. I was suprised that there were no broken or crack tiles. He must have done a great job on laying the tile.

 

[wachuko]

Mustang Bill, do I understand correctly that Wachuko drilled through the tiles and that the posts sit on the tiles?

Andy

Sure did!

Porcelain tiles. The color is the same so if a tool falls and chips the tile, you will not be able to notice.... but I have to say, I have not had a chip on the tile and I really use my garage... from griding, cutting, welding, painting, etc... any spills I just spray some degreaser and pressure wash the floor...

I wanted a checkered floor but the cost of the tiles was out of my budget... so I got these from Home Depot for around 0.78 each. I put them down myself over a few afternoons.

Be sure to pick a tile that is not slippery when wet... but as long as you go with a porcelain tile and do not leave any air pockets under it while installing (meaning using enough adhesive and air escape lines for when installing and pressing down on the tile during install) you will be fine. Really easy to do it yourself.

I did not put any sealer on the grout... depending on the color of the grout you select you might want to do that to avoid stains... again, in my case, even with the grout being beige, some degreaser and it is back to looking like new... unless you drop the canister of prepared auto paint in RED... or if a can of, say, silver spray paint falls and explodes all over the garage,... don't ask...

Anyway, recent photo of my mess... in the process of cleaning and organizing my garage... ...again...

Ask away!

 

[73 Mustang Bill]

When I was having my house tiles, the tile guy was an old installer, and his family had been in the tile business in Orlando since 1923. He said that no grout sealer is best. With sealer, the grout will still grow mold, either from the water used to mix it up, or when the sealer wears down and eventually mold finds its way in after a year or two. If it's sealed, you have no way to clean it out. Sold me.

 

[wachuko]

Yeah, I can confirm that. I was suprised that there were no broken or crack tiles. He must have done a great job on laying the tile.

Thank you Bill!! Still can get the sound of your car out of my head... should have recorded it!! You can be sure I will do so next time I see it

 

[73 Mustang Bill]

A recording isn't going to vibrate your spinal cord like the real thing....

 

[wachuko]

A recording isn't going to vibrate your spinal cord like the real thing....

So true, so true!

A few more recent photos with the lift installed in the second garage bay, narrower setting (I drilled holes for two different widths):

 

[les_garten]

So true, so true!

A few more recent photos with the lift installed in the second garage bay, narrower setting (I drilled holes for two different widths):

How far apart do you have your columns apart?

 

[les_garten]

Any of you guys got jackstands for a separate safety measure?

Which ones?

 

[skamp]

Any of you guys got jackstands for a separate safety measure?

Which ones?

I got the GregSmith small tripod stands to put under the car. They will work when the cars are at the high setting. I don't have a good solution for the low setting as most jackstands do not go to 30-33".

Steve

 

[wachuko]

Any of you guys got jackstands for a separate safety measure?

Which ones?

With this lift, if you use the safety rods, you really do not need to use jack stands... I don't.

Distance:

In the single bay I have mine at 115" (measured from the outside of the base).

For the second bay, I just rotate the middle tower (only one additional hole needed, so six in total instead of 5).

I have them at 128" (again, measured from the outside of the base) and it works great... easy access to the lifting points, easy to open the doors, still within the 130" limit in the install manual for trucks (even though I am using it for smaller cars), and I can slide the arms in and out without having a second person moving the car around. For the smaller car (FIAT), in the second bay, I also have a set of holes at 116" (measured from the outside of the base).

 

[les_garten]

I have them at 128" (again, measured from the outside of the base) and it works great... easy access to the lifting points, easy to open the doors, still within the 130" limit in the install manual for trucks (even though I am using it for smaller cars), and I can slide the arms in and out without having a second person moving the car around. For the smaller car (FIAT), in the second bay, I also have a set of holes at 116" (measured from the outside of the base).
]

Thanx!

Does the Porsche work at 128"?