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Maxjax Installs: Post Here

wachuko

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Thanx!

Does the Porsche work at 128"?

For the 1983 911, because of where the lifting points are, I have to use the 116" setting...

For the 2002 911 (which I no longer have, but a friend bought it, so I still get to work on it :D), I use the 128" setting... helps with getting in and out of the car. Same setting for a Boxster, Pontiac TransAm, 1990-1998 Porsche 911
 
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73 Mustang Bill

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Okay, here's one of those DUHL ideas, like "Why didn't I think of that"? Install the right post, park the car, GET OF OF THE CAR, install the left post. No banging of the doors. After the posts are installed, mount the arms so that they are under the car, if you have a short wheelbase car. No rocking the car forward amd aft to swing the arms in place. Oh, and leave the windows down, in case you need to get into the car.
 

wachuko

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Okay, here's one of those DUHL ideas, like "Why didn't I think of that"? Install the right post, park the car, GET OF OF THE CAR, install the left post. No banging of the doors. After the posts are installed, mount the arms so that they are under the car, if you have a short wheelbase car. No rocking the car forward amd aft to swing the arms in place. Oh, and leave the windows down, in case you need to get into the car.

Duh!!! :lol_hitti

So used to the norm... that a simple solution like that just did not occurred to me... We bought these for two reasons, right?? Able to used them in a low ceiling garage (not an issue in your garage Bill), and because we could move them around!!!:thumbup:

and yeah, back at the computer... hate typing on the phone...
 

73 Mustang Bill

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I thought it was "Safety THIRD!" (The motto of the Rocket City Rednecks, a show on one of the cable channels).
 

abstamaria

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Thanks, Mustang Bill, Wachuko. That's encouraging. I missed Wachuko's thread somehow and will read it tonight.

Somewhat off topic, I belive tiles for garages are the way to go, for the reasons Wachuko said (and also Jack Olsen elsewhere). If I had discovered GJ before I committed to an epoxy floor, I probably would have used tile. The only issue might have been the fact that the architect specified 60cm by 60cm (about 24"x24") tile, which may not be suitable. I would have to switch to smaller-size tile for the work area.

Andy
 

73 Mustang Bill

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I have two garages (named "My Garage" and "Our Garage", to keep the confusion level high). My Garage has epoxy and polyurethane floors and that is where the lift is being installed, and all the good cars are. The times that I've had to kneel or lie down on it, it certainlly is nicer than concrete or tile. I have to believe it's easier on the knees and other joints as well. Your Garage might get tile one of these days, but it is 801 sf, so lots of work there. Lucky, not too much stuff in there to move. If I had to do it over again, I don't think I'd change from the poly/epoxy floor, due to the cool color and cushioning effect. The wife and I are also ******* (West Coast Swing. It's a dance), and we've danced in My Garage before. Almost as good as wood to dance on. But I digress...
 

abstamaria

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Getting out of the car.

I spaced my posts at 120" (measured from the outside edges of the post base flange). There is space between the posts and the car, as shown in the photo below. and this allows me (carefully)to get out of the car. But then I generally work on old cars that tend to be narrow.

Stratosmaxjax.jpg


Anyway, I find it easy enough to stop before fully in between the posts, get out, and push on a tire to position the car.

I thought I would have to remove the posts for working room, but found after installation that they are not really in the way. The 120" spacing is a compromise to accept the differing widths of the cars in my small, motley collection.

Andy
 

abstamaria

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Re: The other things we do in our garages

The wife and I are also ******* (West Coast Swing. It's a dance), and we've danced in My Garage before. Almost as good as wood to dance on. But I digress...

That would make a good topic for another thread, Mustang Bill.

Andy
 

73 Mustang Bill

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Wachuko had a good idea that he mentioned. Put a bumper on the MaxJax post. I have stuff on my boat dock taht wraps around the corner nicely, but it would have to be glued on. Haven't fully investgated that idea yet, but will probably do that AND not install the left post until the car is in place. Luckily, one of my cars is a convertible. Two others are sedans, so I could always drawl into the back seat if I get trapped (I haven't set my posts, so I don't know if it will be a problem).
 

55Thunderboy

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Re: Getting out of the car.

I spaced my posts at 120" (measured from the outside edges of the post base flange). There is space between the posts and the car, as shown in the photo below. and this allows me (carefully)to get out of the car. But then I generally work on old cars that tend to be narrow.

Stratosmaxjax.jpg


Anyway, I find it easy enough to stop before fully in between the posts, get out, and push on a tire to position the car.

I thought I would have to remove the posts for working room, but found after installation that they are not really in the way. The 120" spacing is a compromise to accept the differing widths of the cars in my small, motley collection.

Andy

Hi did you special order yours in red or you custom painted it yourself? I like red
 

abstamaria

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Thunderboy, I wrapped the posts with one of the new vinyl films now available and painted the arms to match.

Andy
 

73 Mustang Bill

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Re: The other things we do in our garages

That would make a good topic for another thread, Mustang Bill.

Andy

Nothing too exciting in that story. I used to internet date, and had lots of goofy stories from there. Wish I had written a book. Met my wife at a good old-fashioned dance, 7 years ago next Saturday....Happily ever after.
 
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wachuko

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Re: Getting out of the car.

You are killing me with that garage and the cars!!! :thumbup: are you in heaven? :). Do share more photos of those beauties, if possible.

Thank you for the link on the rubber guards. The ones I had seen were from Griots Garage. Smaller. Those you show can be installed the lenght of the column. :thumbup:


I spaced my posts at 120" (measured from the outside edges of the post base flange). There is space between the posts and the car, as shown in the photo below. and this allows me (carefully)to get out of the car. But then I generally work on old cars that tend to be narrow.

Stratosmaxjax.jpg


Anyway, I find it easy enough to stop before fully in between the posts, get out, and push on a tire to position the car.

I thought I would have to remove the posts for working room, but found after installation that they are not really in the way. The 120" spacing is a compromise to accept the differing widths of the cars in my small, motley collection.

Andy
 

Nogglefish

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Dec 24, 2007
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I got the GregSmith small tripod stands to put under the car. They will work when the cars are at the high setting. I don't have a good solution for the low setting as most jackstands do not go to 30-33".

Steve

I got the Greg Smith medium stands. Bought four of them, was able to build three of them with the parts provided. Will need some custom work to get the forth done. I don't want to say they are "junk", you get what you pay for. The directions are almost worthless. As long as you are OK with putting some extra work in they seem OK.
 

torquepower85

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Thunderboy, I wrapped the posts with one of the new vinyl films now available and painted the arms to match.

Andy

That red is hot! When you say "now available" do you mean one of the MaxJax distributors sells a red vinyl for it? If so, which?
 
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wachuko

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abstamaria

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Thanks, Wachuko. The garage looks striking only because of the contrast between red and white, but is otherwise quite plain. The car is an old one, bought 25 years ago, when no one wanted them! But, yes, I am quite lucky to have them.

I put together a thread on the garage in the Gallery section, titled "Modern Garage Far East," inactive now as it was finished some months ago.

Torquepower, Wachuko is right. I was referring to the vinyl wraps used on cars now instead of paint. I used that because it was easy and not messy to install (compared to painting). It looks good too and seems durable. I was quite amazed by the product.

Regards,
Andy
 

55Thunderboy

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cool job on the wrap however i dont think i would have patience for wrapping.

i wonder how hard it would be to paint or sent out for powdercoating the two post, anyone have an idea how heavy each post weight?
 
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maruscmn

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Jun 21, 2011
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Could someone from the group buy please post a picture of the left side of the power unit on the cart? The first indication something was wrong was when the backing to the cart was installed upside down from the factory. I also only have one long 90 degree npt fitting. The second one that came in the bag is a short 90 degree making it impossible to tighten without hitting the power unit. The short power hose is also about 1.5 inches too long. am I missing something?

Thanks

Mike
 

les_garten

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Could someone from the group buy please post a picture of the left side of the power unit on the cart? The first indication something was wrong was when the backing to the cart was installed upside down from the factory. I also only have one long 90 degree npt fitting. The second one that came in the bag is a short 90 degree making it impossible to tighten without hitting the power unit. The short power hose is also about 1.5 inches too long. am I missing something?

Thanks

Mike

I'm not sure you need a picture, but you pretty much nailed my experience. Had to take apart and fix the cart piece you are referring to. I got a replacement hose that is still too long even though it is shorter. That short hose deal needs to be re-engineered with a different scheme.
 

73 Mustang Bill

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Well, I guess no one wants to jump on this, so I'll do what I can. (no one answered for 3 hours, then two of us answer almost at the same time)

I also had some issues with a new MaxJax. My hose was also too long (snicker snicker :rocker:), but I decided to mount mine on the wall, so I didn't pursue this much further. However, I did collect a couple pictures along the way (Thanks Wachuko). His unit is shown (right), as well as the picture from the MaxJax site (left). My pump unit is also shown (center). If you have this type unit, the picture in the instruction manual is wrong. You want to screw your hose into hole "A", which is the back hole n the left side, not the front hole. IMPORTANT NOTE: Don't put teflon tape on this fitting as I have shown here.

I'm not sure if you can flex your hose like in the picture on the right. Hope this helps a little.

Right now, I'm waiting to hear from Gabe at Dannmar on what to do about only having 3.5 inches of concrete. I'm pissed at the concrete guy and the builder, but there is nothing that can be done about that now, other than to warn others that if you are having a floor poured, get out there and ensure that you are getting the depth that you want.
 

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maruscmn

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I will post pics as mine currently sits. If the power supply sat as it does in the dannmar pic (reservoir sits on the bottom plate) I think the hose would work. That would require drilling 4 new mounting holes though.
 

73 Mustang Bill

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Your pictures didn't come through. All I see is a red X.

Who needs a beam as an engine hoist, when you can buy an engine hoist. This is mine, unloading the MaxJax
 

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maruscmn

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See attached pics (hopefully)

Mike
 

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73 Mustang Bill

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Pictures worked this time. Are you able to curve your hose like Wachuka did, only in the other direction? If not, you'll porbably have to contact Danmar to get a replacment. I saw in another thread where someone else had this problem.
 

maruscmn

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I just went downstairs and tried it again with no luck. Close but no cigar in my case. I will contact Dannmar tomorrow to see if they have a solution. Thank you for the time though and best of luck with that cement!

Mike
 

olytdi

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Pictures worked this time. Are you able to curve your hose like Wachuka did, only in the other direction? If not, you'll porbably have to contact Danmar to get a replacment. I saw in another thread where someone else had this problem.

It was me with the similar problem. I was told that the length is correct and that you have to put a bend in the hose to make the connection. I had gone through all of the same analysis sending photos to Dannmar, etc.

They did send another hose that was shorter and that is what I used though they told me that I could have used the longer hose and that the longer hose was indeed correct. Why? I have no idea. If they do make you another hose, make it a little shorter than you think (an inch instead of an inch and a half) -- at all costs you don't want it too short!
 

mikeyr

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the hose on mine was a good 1 1/2 - 2" too long, i had to put quite a curve in it and put both the top and bottom 90s at a angle. Seems to work but not yet lifted a car.
 
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mikeyr

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Tried to install my anchors today and followed the instructions for setting the anchor, my concern is that to give the sacrificial bolt the required 3 turns did not seem that hard to do, I was expecting it to be much harder/tighter. The anchor came up to about 1/4" from the top of the concrete. I needed a 2lb. hammer to drive it down so I don't feel I wobbled when drilling the hole but it just seems to not be as tight as I expected to turn the nut the 3 turns.

Next question was distance between the posts, it says 115-120 but for my Honda S2000 it seems like I need to be about 130 (truck dimension) other wise the pads are under the wheels of the car. I am thinking when they say sport cars it should include short cars like the S2000, anyone have one and setup their maxjax ? I would assume it would be the same as a Miata. (I have sent Danmar a e-mail and will report their answers)
 

olytdi

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I needed a cheater bar to tighten-up my anchors as they were freaking hard to turn. Greasing the nut/washer interface helped.

I placed the posts in position prior to drilling and brought-in each of my vehicles. I placed the posts at the widest position possible to lift the narrowest vehicle. Then I pulled-in the widest vehicle and made sure that the arms, when contracted, would indeed still work at that post width.

Then drilled and anchored. worked for me. I think it's at about 130 or so.
 

abstamaria

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Vinyl Wrap

cool job on the wrap however i dont think i would have patience for wrapping.

It is actually easier to wrap the posts than to paint them (less surface preparation, no masking, no primer, no overspray) or even to move them and send them off to be painted. That is why I used vinyl wrap.

I left the insides of the post and bases as is. Here is a photo that shows the front of a post.

Andy

L1010740_2.jpg
 
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