Thanx!
Does the Porsche work at 128"?
For the 1983 911, because of where the lifting points are, I have to use the 116" setting...
For the 2002 911 (which I no longer have, but a friend bought it, so I still get to work on it
Thanx!
Does the Porsche work at 128"?
For the 1983 911, because of where the lifting points are, I have to use the 116" setting...
For the 2002 911 (which I no longer have, but a friend bought it, so I still get to work on it), I use the 128" setting... helps with getting in and out of the car. Same setting for a Boxster, Pontiac TransAm, 1990-1998 Porsche 911
Okay, here's one of those DUHL ideas, like "Why didn't I think of that"? Install the right post, park the car, GET OF OF THE CAR, install the left post. No banging of the doors. After the posts are installed, mount the arms so that they are under the car, if you have a short wheelbase car. No rocking the car forward amd aft to swing the arms in place. Oh, and leave the windows down, in case you need to get into the car.

The wife and I are also ******* (West Coast Swing. It's a dance), and we've danced in My Garage before. Almost as good as wood to dance on. But I digress...
I spaced my posts at 120" (measured from the outside edges of the post base flange). There is space between the posts and the car, as shown in the photo below. and this allows me (carefully)to get out of the car. But then I generally work on old cars that tend to be narrow.
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Anyway, I find it easy enough to stop before fully in between the posts, get out, and push on a tire to position the car.
I thought I would have to remove the posts for working room, but found after installation that they are not really in the way. The 120" spacing is a compromise to accept the differing widths of the cars in my small, motley collection.
Andy
That would make a good topic for another thread, Mustang Bill.
Andy
I spaced my posts at 120" (measured from the outside edges of the post base flange). There is space between the posts and the car, as shown in the photo below. and this allows me (carefully)to get out of the car. But then I generally work on old cars that tend to be narrow.
![]()
Anyway, I find it easy enough to stop before fully in between the posts, get out, and push on a tire to position the car.
I thought I would have to remove the posts for working room, but found after installation that they are not really in the way. The 120" spacing is a compromise to accept the differing widths of the cars in my small, motley collection.
Andy
I got the GregSmith small tripod stands to put under the car. They will work when the cars are at the high setting. I don't have a good solution for the low setting as most jackstands do not go to 30-33".
Steve
Thunderboy, I wrapped the posts with one of the new vinyl films now available and painted the arms to match.
Andy
That red is hot! When you say "now available" do you mean one of the MaxJax distributors sells a red vinyl for it? If so, which?
cool job on the wrap however i dont think i would have patience for wrapping.
i wonder how hard it would be to paint or sent out for powdercoating the two post, anyone have an idea how heavy each post weight?
Could someone from the group buy please post a picture of the left side of the power unit on the cart? The first indication something was wrong was when the backing to the cart was installed upside down from the factory. I also only have one long 90 degree npt fitting. The second one that came in the bag is a short 90 degree making it impossible to tighten without hitting the power unit. The short power hose is also about 1.5 inches too long. am I missing something?
Thanks
Mike
), but I decided to mount mine on the wall, so I didn't pursue this much further. However, I did collect a couple pictures along the way (Thanks Wachuko). His unit is shown (right), as well as the picture from the MaxJax site (left). My pump unit is also shown (center). If you have this type unit, the picture in the instruction manual is wrong. You want to screw your hose into hole "A", which is the back hole n the left side, not the front hole. IMPORTANT NOTE: Don't put teflon tape on this fitting as I have shown here.Pictures worked this time. Are you able to curve your hose like Wachuka did, only in the other direction? If not, you'll porbably have to contact Danmar to get a replacment. I saw in another thread where someone else had this problem.
cool job on the wrap however i dont think i would have patience for wrapping.
