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Maxjax Installs: Post Here

les_garten

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Oct 8, 2010
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Okay, I've started quoting myself. I must be going mad. I have three versions of the MaxJax installation manual. They all mention Dextron III, and one mentions 10 weight hydraulic fluid. I guess I also like Les' argument that ATF is easier to locate than 10 weight hydraulic fluid. Will probably put a tag on the pump indicating what I used, so that I don't forget. This weekend is bleed weekend, next weekend is drilling holes and epoxing in the anchors. I also have a couple special mods that i have in mind that I'll share if they work.

Exactly.

If you look at the actual Viscosity specs of those different Hydraulic fluids at tractor supply, they vary quite a bit. When I was speaking to Gabe about this, he kinda assumed I was going to use ATF. I did discuss the Hydraulic oils and he said you can do it, but he didn't sound encouraging. All the Hydrailic oils I examined at TSC were heavier viscosity than the ATF. I didn't examine wight ratings, I looked at the viscosity ratings, they range from 230 to like 380 or something. I think Dexron is around 170.
 
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73 Mustang Bill

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Re: Bosch SDS Bulldog for Installing Anchors

I bought the above drill to put anchors down to install Maxjax. Got the pilot 5/8" hole done, then tried to do 7/8" and got about a quarter inch and then it stopped turning, though I could hear the drill motor working, no action at the drill end. I called Bosch and he advised me not to drill pilot hole, just do 7/8" hole, as the drill bit was catching on the side of the smaller hole, and the clutch was coming on. I haven't tried it his way yet, and wondered if anyone else had this issue, and what you did to solve problem. Thanks,

Don Ivey

I drilled 13 holes yesterday, none with pilot holes. I used a laser level to maintain 'squareness' in one axis, but it went a little off in the other. I don't believe pilot holes won't not have changed that.
 

skamp

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Cypress, TX
Re: Bosch SDS Bulldog for Installing Anchors

I drilled 13 holes yesterday, none with pilot holes. I used a laser level to maintain 'squareness' in one axis, but it went a little off in the other. I don't believe pilot holes won't not have changed that.

Are you planning on using epoxy to hold the anchors? How thick is the slab?

Steve
 

73 Mustang Bill

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My slab was originally 3-3/8" deep, but since it was built less than 2 years ago, I was able to get the builder to repair it. They took out a piece 4' x 21' and pour that 12 inches deep, with rebar in the bottom 6 inches, 3500 psi. I used epoxy on the anchors that were 6 inches from the edge, but used the regular drop in anchors for the others. When I get time, I'll post the epoxy experience, since I haven't seen anyone talk about that yet.

Epoxy is in, and hardened overnight. I'll get out there soon and get a car in the air....
 

skamp

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Cypress, TX
My slab was originally 3-3/8" deep, but since it was built less than 2 years ago, I was able to get the builder to repair it. They took out a piece 4' x 21' and pour that 12 inches deep, with rebar in the bottom 6 inches, 3500 psi. I used epoxy on the anchors that were 6 inches from the edge, but used the regular drop in anchors for the others. When I get time, I'll post the epoxy experience, since I haven't seen anyone talk about that yet.

Epoxy is in, and hardened overnight. I'll get out there soon and get a car in the air....

Right, I remember your post about your builder fixing the slab. Did you drill through the slab in case the drop in ones don't hold? If not you may want to so you can pound them through and use epoxy anchors.

Steve
 

73 Mustang Bill

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I don't have a drill bit long enough to get through 12 inches of concrete, and my drill had enough trouble with going down 6 inches. I've already set the drop-in anchors as well, and all of them took nicely. If I have problems with them in the future, I'll just have to deal with that at that time.

Plus, I would have punctured the vapor barrier.
 

skamp

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I don't have a drill bit long enough to get through 12 inches of concrete, and my drill had enough trouble with going down 6 inches. I've already set the drop-in anchors as well, and all of them took nicely. If I have problems with them in the future, I'll just have to deal with that at that time.

Plus, I would have punctured the vapor barrier.

Great! Post up some pictures when you are done. I got mine setup but my weekend plan is to reroute the hoses to one side and hang the pump and flow divider on one column. My garage is pretty short and when I was lifting one of my cars I was jammed all the way in the back of the garage. I did not like the fact that the car was inches away from me with no where to go if something happened. Once I move the pump to the side I will have plenty of room.

Steve
 

73 Mustang Bill

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I haven't seen another discussion of epoxying in the anchors, so I thought I'd offer up my experience.

I was drilled 6 holes for epoxy, and 7 holes for drop-in anchors, so I used tape on the floor to indicate how deep the hole was supposed to be. I also marked on the tape which was the last hole to be filled with epoxy.

Holes are drilled 6-1/4" deep (regular drop in anchors are only 5-1/2"). That's going to take a longer drill bit, so take that into account. I bought 2 6-3/4" long Bosche bits (new from EBay $5.50), and one 13" Vermont American (used off of EBay). I used the shorter bits to do the first 5" of the hole, and finished off with the longer bit. I used my shop vac while I was drilling to keep the dirt down

I used a laser level to help keep the drill bit vertical, at least in one plane. The drill had a tendency to wander a little bit, and a couple of my holes were less than vertical, but they are tilted outward from the post. If they aren't perpendicular, I would think this is the best direction to be off in.

I used a rubber hose attached to the end of my blow gun to blow up the dirt from the bottom of the hole. When I was sure I had drilled deep enough, I used a bottle brush that I fould at Northern Tool when I was in their store (Lowe's also has one on their web page that you have to order). I used that brush to clean out the holes well, again using the blow gun and vac to clean the hole as best as possible. Cleanliness is important for holding strength.

After the holes were drilled and cleaned, get your anchors ready to be inserted. As was recommended by somone else here, I wrapped the exposed threads with masking tape, just to keep the epoxy off of the threads.

The directions said that you should be able to get about 6 holes filled per tube. I had 6 holes to epoxy, and was worried that I might run short (I've read that it has happened to others, but they had gone all the way through their concrete. I wasn't). I had one hole marked to fill last. If I didn't have enough epoxy, I would have used a regular drop-in anchor there. I chose the center hole in the back to be that hole, but I had no trouble filling 6 holes with one tube.

Mark a line on the injection nozzle about 3-1/4"-3-1/2" from the tip. That is how deep you want to fill the holes with epoxy. If you overfill them, it just oozes out when you insert the anchor. You should have a little bit come out when you set the anchor, otherwise it might not be full enough. Fill one hole and set the anchor, just so that you know if you can put a little less in each hole. Helps save on cleanup.

***** IMPORTANT NOTE *****
Wear goggles, and at least one disposable glove when you set the anchors. You also want to wrap a couple paper towels around the anchor before you hit it. The epoxy comes out of there and goes everywhere, so a paper towel and gloves really help with the mess.

Epoxy is supposed to harden in 45 minutes. I cleaned up the rest of the garage, took a break, and after an hour, I removed the bolts. No trouble removing them, and all the anchors were below the surface.

All of my anchors )epoxied and drop-in) are well well below the surface, so I'll probably look into getitng longer bolts. Cost in minimal, and better safe than sorry.
 

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73 Mustang Bill

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Great! Post up some pictures when you are done. I got mine setup but my weekend plan is to reroute the hoses to one side and hang the pump and flow divider on one column. My garage is pretty short and when I was lifting one of my cars I was jammed all the way in the back of the garage. I did not like the fact that the car was inches away from me with no where to go if something happened. Once I move the pump to the side I will have plenty of room.

Steve

I was working on that when you posted. I plan to run my hoses overhead, so that's the next project. I also want to start a new thread on planning your MaxJax placement....later.
 

skamp

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I haven't seen another discussion of epoxying in the anchors, so I thought I'd offer up my experience.

I was drilled 6 holes for epoxy, and 7 holes for drop-in anchors, so I used tape on the floor to indicate how deep the hole was supposed to be. I also marked on the tape which was the last hole to be filled with epoxy.

Holes are drilled 6-1/4" deep (regular drop in anchors are only 5-1/2"). That's going to take a longer drill bit, so take that into account. I bought 2 6-3/4" long Bosche bits (new from EBay $5.50), and one 13" Vermont American (used off of EBay). I used the shorter bits to do the first 5" of the hole, and finished off with the longer bit. I used my shop vac while I was drilling to keep the dirt down

I used a laser level to help keep the drill bit vertical, at least in one plane. The drill had a tendency to wander a little bit, and a couple of my holes were less than vertical, but they are tilted outward from the post. If they aren't perpendicular, I would think this is the best direction to be off in.

I used a rubber hose attached to the end of my blow gun to blow up the dirt from the bottom of the hole. When I was sure I had drilled deep enough, I used a bottle brush that I fould at Northern Tool when I was in their store (Lowe's also has one on their web page that you have to order). I used that brush to clean out the holes well, again using the blow gun and vac to clean the hole as best as possible. Cleanliness is important for holding strength.

After the holes were drilled and cleaned, get your anchors ready to be inserted. As was recommended by somone else here, I wrapped the exposed threads with masking tape, just to keep the epoxy off of the threads.

The directions said that you should be able to get about 6 holes filled per tube. I had 6 holes to epoxy, and was worried that I might run short (I've read that it has happened to others, but they had gone all the way through their concrete. I wasn't). I had one hole marked to fill last. If I didn't have enough epoxy, I would have used a regular drop-in anchor there. I chose the center hole in the back to be that hole, but I had no trouble filling 6 holes with one tube.

Mark a line on the injection nozzle about 3-1/4"-3-1/2" from the tip. That is how deep you want to fill the holes with epoxy. If you overfill them, it just oozes out when you insert the anchor. You should have a little bit come out when you set the anchor, otherwise it might not be full enough. Fill one hole and set the anchor, just so that you know if you can put a little less in each hole. Helps save on cleanup.

***** IMPORTANT NOTE *****
Wear goggles, and at least one disposable glove when you set the anchors. You also want to wrap a couple paper towels around the anchor before you hit it. The epoxy comes out of there and goes everywhere, so a paper towel and gloves really help with the mess.

Epoxy is supposed to harden in 45 minutes. I cleaned up the rest of the garage, took a break, and after an hour, I removed the bolts. No trouble removing them, and all the anchors were below the surface.

All of my anchors )epoxied and drop-in) are well well below the surface, so I'll probably look into getitng longer bolts. Cost in minimal, and better safe than sorry.

Nice writeup! The holes you drilled looked very good with very little chipping around the top edge. I am glad to see all these tips and tricks. I know there was various concerns and issues on installs and with all this info I think it really helps people that run into the same problems.

Steve
 

73 Mustang Bill

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Nice writeup! The holes you drilled looked very good with very little chipping around the top edge. I am glad to see all these tips and tricks. I know there was various concerns and issues on installs and with all this info I think it really helps people that run into the same problems.

Steve

Thanks. I've learned a lot by reading, so I thought I'd give back. It's also a nice place to keep track of what I did. I had to go back and review my writeup on my floor, as I need to repeat it here pretty soon.
 

73 Mustang Bill

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As required, I am submitting my picture of the first car in the air on my new MaxJax. Also have a picture there of any idea that I had to make the legs, so that you know it's reached its full extension. In the first picture, you can also see the adjustable roll-around table that I bought at Northern Tool. It will allow me to use my old used oil pan, instead of having to buy a roll-around unit with a long neck to it. Also good to stacking tools on, as it holds up to 200 lbs.
 

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Jcslocum

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May 15, 2011
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Love the Lotus. I had an Esprit back in the 80's!

I have the same roll around table. It needs to be cut down to use it under the car to hold tools and stuff.
 

abstamaria

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Lifting a low GT3 on a Maxjax

Although I had the MaxJax for several months now, I had not lifted my Porsche, a 996 GT3, until today The difficulty with a GT3 is that it is very low and has plastic skirts that are lower than the car’s lift points. The jack pads of the MaxJax lift won’t slide in and also won’t engage the car’s lift points without fouling the round cutouts in the wrap-around plastic skirts. If the MaxJax’s pads were round instead of square and had a screw height adjustment, they might work. (MaxJax, Gabe, please note.)

What I did was to buy four aftermarket jack pads specifically for the 993/996 series. These have headed pegs that slip into the holes in the car’s jack points and lock in place. I glued rubber pads (red) to protect the MaxJax’s arms and prevent slipping, since the MaxJax pads take up too much vertical clearance and have to be removed. Here is the pad in use:

L1020178.jpg


I had the Porsche up this morning as w worked on it, and the arrangement seems to work well.

Andy
 

abstamaria

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Success!

Here is the car up on the MaxJax at last. My ceiling is not high, but I have room to spare with the Porsche.

L1020184.jpg


Andy
 

abstamaria

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Mustang Bill, congratulations! And that's a great car you have on it.

One question: Does the Esprit have a backbone frame similar to the Elan? The reason I ask is that I have an Elan. Although I have been assured it will be all right, I am reluctant to lift the Elan as the corners of the car are fiberglass and unsupported!

It's great to see a Lotus once in a while in this forum.

Andy
 

73 Mustang Bill

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Mustang Bill, congratulations! And that's a great car you have on it.

One question: Does the Esprit have a backbone frame similar to the Elan? The reason I ask is that I have an Elan. Although I have been assured it will be all right, I am reluctant to lift the Elan as the corners of the car are fiberglass and unsupported!

It's great to see a Lotus once in a while in this forum.

Andy

Yeah, the Lotus has a center backbone. You can probably find your lift points in the Owner's manual, or by checking with an online user's group. On my car, the rear lift point is a point on the body just in front of the rear wheels. The fiberglass (or 'glassfibre' in the Queen's english) is especially thick here, and it's where the firewall is. (Trivia: The firewall on my car is actually 3/4" marine-grade plywood. For the weight it gives ideal strength, and much easier for a small company like Lotus to work with).

The front lifting point on my car is the problem. It's on the lower arm where the front shock attaches. I can't get the lifting pad under there because of the tire. So, lifting instructions for that car are going to be lift it up a little bit, put jack stands under the frame and lower it back down. Take the front wheels off, and reposition the lift pads to under the A arm at the shock absorber mounting point, and lift away.
 

motorheadsdiygarage

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Near Montreal
This is mine. It's little short for the HHR but I could hip the rafters or chop the top....lol. The rafter height is 8 feet.
 

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mercury26

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Broomfield, CO
I figured that I would my notes and observations about my recent purchase and (in progress) installation of my MaxJax. Ordered my MaxJax from Garage Service Equipment, arrived on Thursday of this week to my residence. Truck driver was very helpful and dropped it in my garage with his pallet jack. One observation here, it helped to have some 2x4s and left over deck boards. As the pallet jack, did not go up high enough to fully lift the packaged shipment.

Unpacked everything, then sorted and separated all the pieces in the install bag. Second Observation, check all your parts are there. I am missing my quick coupler sets for the hose. I will have to call GSE on Monday to get a replacement pair.

I followed the instructions and removed the columns from the packaging setup. Pulled the first cylinder, installed hose fittings and re-installed. Made a mistake here that I noticed on the second cylinder column. Observation three, read instructions carefully as I missed one of the coupling pieces for the pipe fittings. The fittings consist of three separate pieces, 1 fitting into cylinder, 2 straight intermediate piece and 3 angled inlet piece.

Observation four, the column 2 hole for the cylinder pipe fitting was cut slightly small. Due to this, I had a hard time angling in the cylinder. I had to remove the lift block restrictor bar, and push the lift block out a bit to angle in the pipe fitting through the hole. Observation five, when I pulled the lift block the lift block slides popped out of the cylinder. The lift block sides are asymmetrical, which I put in wrong. This caused a the cylinder to be pushed outside the confines of the cylinder. I popped the blocks out, flipped them around and was good to go.

Observation six, the pump hose fitting does not match the drawing. The description says to remove the plastic plug on the pump which I did. Bit it is the rear plastic plug, though the diagram shows a plug in the front. Also, the hose is too long which required me to angle the connectors and put a bend in the hose.

Next step is to drill for anchors, hoping my concrete has enough depth. Picked up a new Bosch SDS Hammer Drill at Home Depot, very nice price and 1yr no interest/payment financing.

Here are some pics of my hose setup and rear of column.
 

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73 Mustang Bill

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Oh, something that I encountered on first use worth mentioning. One of my pins for the arms was tough to get in. I've seen other guys compaint about this before. One complained that he had to hammer his pin in. Instead, run a semi-circular or round file in there a few strokes. There was probably a little metal left over from the drilling process, or a little too much paint. I know rocket science, and this ain't it.
 
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motorheadsdiygarage

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Observation six, the pump hose fitting does not match the drawing. The description says to remove the plastic plug on the pump which I did. Bit it is the rear plastic plug, though the diagram shows a plug in the front. Also, the hose is too long which required me to angle the connectors and put a bend in the hose.

The instructions packed with my unit were different from the instructions on the website. There is a bend in the hose and the lower connection needs teflon tape so it dosen't leak.
 

mercury26

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Location
Broomfield, CO
The instructions packed with my unit were different from the instructions on the website. There is a bend in the hose and the lower connection needs teflon tape so it dosen't leak.


Actually, I am not sure the lower fitting that goes into the pump needs teflon tape. My fitting had a rubber sealing ring that looks like it seals.
 

billybek

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Mar 10, 2012
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Location
Calgary
I am still debating the type of lift to install in the garage. Limited headroom at 10' and have watching new prices and looking for used scissor lifts for quite some time.

Recently, I saw a MaxJax lift that was installed and was impressed by how little space the lift takes up in the shop. I do have a couple of questions for the people that own one of these lifts.
One is once the lift is set up, how many of the owners out there actually pull the bolts and store the lift away?
If you do install and remove the posts from their anchors, how many of you have actually had an properly installed anchor fail when trying to re install the lift?
Has anyone ever mounted a MaxJax lift on a steel base plate? Just a question that I had seen on another forum that was never really answered.
Thanks for helping me make a decision!
 

IONH

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Feb 12, 2010
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Central Massachusetts
I am still debating the type of lift to install in the garage. Limited headroom at 10' and have watching new prices and looking for used scissor lifts for quite some time.

I actually sold my scissor lift because it took up too much floor space. In addition, it was too high for most of my vehicles (3 out of the 5) to get on it without planks.
 

billybek

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I have seen some cool below slab scissor installs. Looks like a bit of work to get it that way.
There was also a cool thread here on wheel engaging adapters that someone had made.
Makes me think that a heavier two post 8 or 9K lift might be an option. The ones with the drive over plate in the centre.
Most of the debates that take place inside my head are not as enjoyable as the great lift debate that I am having now!!!
 

73 Mustang Bill

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I have seen some cool below slab scissor installs. Looks like a bit of work to get it that way.
There was also a cool thread here on wheel engaging adapters that someone had made.
Makes me think that a heavier two post 8 or 9K lift might be an option. The ones with the drive over plate in the centre.
Most of the debates that take place inside my head are not as enjoyable as the great lift debate that I am having now!!!

I'm a new MaxJax'er and I love it. I spent some time today flushing brakes and replacing fuel lines on a mid-engine car.It would have been a LOT harder with a scissor lift or center post lift. Just something to think about.
 

mercury26

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Broomfield, CO
Hit an issue with my MaxJax install tonight. I spent a good part of last night getting the columns aligned and in the right place. Tonight I drilled my first hole, used a Bosch SDS 1" Bulldog which made quick work of it. But the depth of the hole is only 3.5" deep, hmmm very disappointing. Not sure how to proceed, drill the rest, make plans to cut out concrete for a deep block to be dropped/tied in (similar to an earlier poster on this thread) or another option.

*sigh*
 

olytdi

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Drill the others -- 3 1/2" will be fine if it is in good condition (bottom not blown out) and if other holes are more up to snuff depth wise.
 

mercury26

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Broomfield, CO
In some cases, as the bit for the hammer drill gets close to going right through the slab, the bottom of the slab will shale away leaving that section thinner.


Got it, yes it spalled a bit when I drilled through. I talked to GSE today and they told me the spalling occurs if you push to much on the drill. Which I did do, but won't do on the other holes. GSE told me to try torqueing the bolts and seeing how it goes. If that does not work, then the next step is epoxy anchors or new concrete for the columns.
 

abstamaria

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Permanent installation

One is once the lift is set up, how many of the owners out there actually pull the bolts and store the lift away?

Billy, just to answer your question, I don't remove the posts since they are unobtrusive and take up little room.

Andy
 

55Thunderboy

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Feb 2, 2012
Messages
20
Re: Vinyl Wrap

It is actually easier to wrap the posts than to paint them (less surface preparation, no masking, no primer, no overspray) or even to move them and send them off to be painted. That is why I used vinyl wrap.

I left the insides of the post and bases as is. Here is a photo that shows the front of a post.

Andy

L1010740_2.jpg

What brand cabinets are you using, your space looks incredible
 

mercury26

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Sep 28, 2010
Messages
47
Location
Broomfield, CO
Hit an issue with my MaxJax install tonight. I spent a good part of last night getting the columns aligned and in the right place. Tonight I drilled my first hole, used a Bosch SDS 1" Bulldog which made quick work of it. But the depth of the hole is only 3.5" deep, hmmm very disappointing. Not sure how to proceed, drill the rest, make plans to cut out concrete for a deep block to be dropped/tied in (similar to an earlier poster on this thread) or another option.

*sigh*



Well, I drilled the other four holes for the one column. Depth was the same all around. I set the anchors according to the manual, though I needed a few more then (4) turns to get them closer to the flush to 1/8" below concrete set height. I torqued all (5) bolts to 90 ft/lbs THOUGH a 2 to 3 of the 5 anchors pulled up out of the concrete. They all torqued to 90 ft/lbs but wonder if they torqued because they are held in the concrete or that the anchor is flush and tightened against the column base plate??? Hmmm, nothing is ever easy.

Any thoughts from folks?
 

mercury26

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Broomfield, CO
Well, I drilled the other four holes for the one column. Depth was the same all around. I set the anchors according to the manual, though I needed a few more then (4) turns to get them closer to the flush to 1/8" below concrete set height. I torqued all (5) bolts to 90 ft/lbs THOUGH a 2 to 3 of the 5 anchors pulled up out of the concrete. They all torqued to 90 ft/lbs but wonder if they torqued because they are held in the concrete or that the anchor is flush and tightened against the column base plate??? Hmmm, nothing is ever easy.

Any thoughts from folks?

Ok, I just finished the other (5) anchors on the other column. Same type of behavior, a few them when being torqued popped up above the concrete into the hole on the baseplate. But they all eventually torqued up to 90 ft/lbs. I feel a bit nervous about the anchor setting. Maybe I am being irrational...
 

olytdi

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
2,202
Location
Olympia, Washington
How much higher than the surface are the anchors now that they are tightened? I had a couple stay below the surface, a couple stay flush, and a couple come up about 1/4 inch or so above. There was a range of the number of turns necessary to get them tight. I think I torqued them to something like 90 as well. I ground off the ones that were seating above the surface.

Then I used the lift and tested it. Left my Trooper on it overnight. Looked for cracks and then looked at the anchors. Nothing moved, shifted, or cracked.

One thing I did notice is how much the main columns bow when under load. Check the plumb with a four ft level with a car up in the air. Impressive.
 
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