CactusS4
Well-known member
Old thread, but a great one!! Just subbing, so I don't lose this great resource
Maxjax Installs: Post Here
- Thread starter G-force
- Start date
skamp
Well-known member
What are those pads and where did you get them? I like that idea. I thought of using some pipe covering or something but that would look pretty ugly.
Steve
Steve,
I got them from Griot's Garage... only to notice that I overpaid for them... can be found, in yellow, on ebay, for a lot less...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Door-Defender-Car-Garage-Protection-Pad-Set-/360381727408
or Black
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-2-Corner-Door-Defender-Car-Garage-Protection-Pad-/230404158265
Now that I think about it... I could have used one of those pads my kids have in their room... cut to size and glued to the tower... The space between the lift arms assembly and the tower is not much, so you can't put a pad that is too thick or the arm will rip it off when lifting the car. Just fyi. These are a tight fit... I put some white grease on them just in case
So far, so good...
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skamp
Well-known member
Steve,
I got them from Griot's Garage... only to notice that I overpaid for them... can be found, in yellow, on ebay, for a lot less...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Door-Defender-Car-Garage-Protection-Pad-Set-/360381727408
or Black
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-2-Corner-Door-Defender-Car-Garage-Protection-Pad-/230404158265
Now that I think about it... I could have used one of those pads my kids have in their room... cut to size and glued to the tower... The space between the lift arms assembly and the tower is not much, so you can't put a pad that is too thick or the arm will rip it off when lifting the car. Just fyi. These are a tight fit... I put some white grease on them just in case
Perfect! Ordered a set in black. Thanks!
Steve
Cool. I did the same for the ones I need to install higher. Two sets to cover both towers.
I used 3M Spray Adhesive #70 or 90, can't remember which... but either one should work fine. This avoids additional thickness added by double face tape...
I also thought about using those magnetic strips... glue them to the pads and just put them up when using the lift... but with my memory, best to have them fixed on the towers.
abstamaria
Well-known member
Jack pads
I was at a car show here recently and spied these very nice adjustable jack pads. The distributor promised to send someone over to my home to see if they have adapters that will fit the MaxJax.
On this topic, Jose in Bogota is making some offset pads that look very useful, too.
Andy
I was at a car show here recently and spied these very nice adjustable jack pads. The distributor promised to send someone over to my home to see if they have adapters that will fit the MaxJax.
On this topic, Jose in Bogota is making some offset pads that look very useful, too.
Andy
Attachments
In My Garage
Well-known member
Which lift, scissors or two-post?
After a couple of years of going back and forth trying to decide between a scissors lift and a two-post lift, I went with the MaxJax Two Post Portable Lift. The MaxJax was chosen because I wanted unobstructed access to the bottom of the vehicles I would be working on. The lifts each have their advantages and disadvantages.
Either choice of lift would have had me do some concrete work.
A scissors lift is too tall to drive over, so it either needs to be placed below grade or driven over by placing 2 x 12 lumber where your track is. The advantage of a scissors lift is that the residential-grade concrete floor would be less of a concern. It along with the 2x12 lumber scenario is by far the easiest & quickest solution. Two very nice below-grade installations by gtroth and Magdaddy are shown in this Rennlist thread, Center of gravity relative to lift points.
A two-post lift needs to be anchored into the concrete floor. I didn’t trust my residential-grade concrete floor enough to bet my life on it. And sure enough, after cutting my concrete slab, I am glad I didn’t.
Having decided upon the MaxJax two-post lift, I wanted to see one in action as well as their installation. For what I plan to do and the number of times a year I plan to use my lift, the MaxJax was perfect. As for a full sized two-post lift, another local Porsche 993 owner has one and I wasn't able to stand up straight under it.
MaxJax column spacing:
How far to set the columns apart? The MaxJax manual provides recommendations on column spacing, but I wanted to see how a 993 would fit best. To the outer edges of the MaxJax base plates, one local 993 owner had them at 120 inches apart and another local 993 owner had them at 132 inches apart. Having had the opportunity to measure the arm extensions of the MaxJax at the 132 inch column spacing, they were extended by ~50% with the 993 centered. I ended up choosing 130 inch spacing for my install. See * below.
MaxJax column location – front to back:
I have a standard sized two-car garage measuring 269 inches deep. Not wanting to use the MaxJax column as a door stopper, I placed the MaxJax columns more towards the front of the garage or 104 inches from the front wall of the garage to the center of the MaxJax column. With the 993 centered with respect to the MaxJax column, I have two feet from the front wall of the garage to the bumper. Centering the 993 center-of-gravity-wise *, I have a foot between the front wall of the garage and the bumper and lots of space behind the 993 for an engine/transmission extraction.
* Note, with 130 inch column spacing and with the 993's center-of-gravity point centered about the MaxJax column, the forward arm of the MaxJax is nearly fully extended and the rearward arm of the MaxJax is nearly fully retracted. If I had spaced the MaxJax columns further apart, that would not have been possible.
MaxJax anchoring:
Not that I planned on using them, there seems to be some contradiction between instructions in the MaxJax manual itself and the Wej-It Power Drop anchor instructions.
From the MaxJax manual: “The floor on which the lift is to be installed must be 4-¼ inch minimum thickness concrete, with a minimum compressive strength of 3000 psi, and reinforced with steel bar”. My concrete floor may have been 4-¼ inches thick...here and there, but I don’t know of any residential garage floors that are “reinforced with steel bar” unless it was an owner request prior to construction.
From the MaxJax manual: They state, “drill hole approximately 5½ inches deep”, yet my concrete slab only needs to be 4¼ inches thick?
The Wej-It Power Drop anchor instructions list other numbers again.
Custom MaxJax anchoring:
I won’t go into the details here other than to say that I went overboard by choice. My method of anchoring is my choice and I'm not suggesting that anyone else use it. Further details can be found at this link.
A few pics of my base plate - anchor combination that was set into poured 3 foot x 12 foot x 14 inch deep concrete...
December 14th - First Lift - YouTube Video:
Having confidence in my installation, my 993 was the first to be used for the initial test run.
After a couple of years of going back and forth trying to decide between a scissors lift and a two-post lift, I went with the MaxJax Two Post Portable Lift. The MaxJax was chosen because I wanted unobstructed access to the bottom of the vehicles I would be working on. The lifts each have their advantages and disadvantages.
Either choice of lift would have had me do some concrete work.
A scissors lift is too tall to drive over, so it either needs to be placed below grade or driven over by placing 2 x 12 lumber where your track is. The advantage of a scissors lift is that the residential-grade concrete floor would be less of a concern. It along with the 2x12 lumber scenario is by far the easiest & quickest solution. Two very nice below-grade installations by gtroth and Magdaddy are shown in this Rennlist thread, Center of gravity relative to lift points.
A two-post lift needs to be anchored into the concrete floor. I didn’t trust my residential-grade concrete floor enough to bet my life on it. And sure enough, after cutting my concrete slab, I am glad I didn’t.
Having decided upon the MaxJax two-post lift, I wanted to see one in action as well as their installation. For what I plan to do and the number of times a year I plan to use my lift, the MaxJax was perfect. As for a full sized two-post lift, another local Porsche 993 owner has one and I wasn't able to stand up straight under it.
MaxJax column spacing:
How far to set the columns apart? The MaxJax manual provides recommendations on column spacing, but I wanted to see how a 993 would fit best. To the outer edges of the MaxJax base plates, one local 993 owner had them at 120 inches apart and another local 993 owner had them at 132 inches apart. Having had the opportunity to measure the arm extensions of the MaxJax at the 132 inch column spacing, they were extended by ~50% with the 993 centered. I ended up choosing 130 inch spacing for my install. See * below.
MaxJax column location – front to back:
I have a standard sized two-car garage measuring 269 inches deep. Not wanting to use the MaxJax column as a door stopper, I placed the MaxJax columns more towards the front of the garage or 104 inches from the front wall of the garage to the center of the MaxJax column. With the 993 centered with respect to the MaxJax column, I have two feet from the front wall of the garage to the bumper. Centering the 993 center-of-gravity-wise *, I have a foot between the front wall of the garage and the bumper and lots of space behind the 993 for an engine/transmission extraction.
* Note, with 130 inch column spacing and with the 993's center-of-gravity point centered about the MaxJax column, the forward arm of the MaxJax is nearly fully extended and the rearward arm of the MaxJax is nearly fully retracted. If I had spaced the MaxJax columns further apart, that would not have been possible.
MaxJax anchoring:
Not that I planned on using them, there seems to be some contradiction between instructions in the MaxJax manual itself and the Wej-It Power Drop anchor instructions.
From the MaxJax manual: “The floor on which the lift is to be installed must be 4-¼ inch minimum thickness concrete, with a minimum compressive strength of 3000 psi, and reinforced with steel bar”. My concrete floor may have been 4-¼ inches thick...here and there, but I don’t know of any residential garage floors that are “reinforced with steel bar” unless it was an owner request prior to construction.
From the MaxJax manual: They state, “drill hole approximately 5½ inches deep”, yet my concrete slab only needs to be 4¼ inches thick?
The Wej-It Power Drop anchor instructions list other numbers again.
Custom MaxJax anchoring:
I won’t go into the details here other than to say that I went overboard by choice. My method of anchoring is my choice and I'm not suggesting that anyone else use it. Further details can be found at this link.
A few pics of my base plate - anchor combination that was set into poured 3 foot x 12 foot x 14 inch deep concrete...
December 14th - First Lift - YouTube Video:
Having confidence in my installation, my 993 was the first to be used for the initial test run.
motorheadsdiygarage
Well-known member
Nice engineering job Alex. You'll never have to worry about whats under the concrete where your MaxJax is installed. Your baby will never be at risk.
Do you still have the supplied anchors?
Do you still have the supplied anchors?
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In My Garage
Well-known member
Andy, or Alex?
I'd be more worried about the MaxJax failing than the installation failing.
What prevents it from dropping down before I have a chance to install the safety pins?
Still in the box. They make a good paperweight.
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abstamaria
Well-known member
Positioning He can
Hello, Alex. Great job.
I have a question. Assuming the installation is secure, does it matter how the car is positioned fore and aft relative to the posts? l am thinking that all the car sees are the lift points, which don't change.
l haven't thought that through. I've been lifting my car, also a Porsche, with the arms evenly extended.
'
Cheers,
Andy
Hello, Alex. Great job.
I have a question. Assuming the installation is secure, does it matter how the car is positioned fore and aft relative to the posts? l am thinking that all the car sees are the lift points, which don't change.
l haven't thought that through. I've been lifting my car, also a Porsche, with the arms evenly extended.
'
Cheers,
Andy
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motorheadsdiygarage
Well-known member
Sorry about the error Alex.
I've had mine for 2 years and the only complaint is that sometimes I've had to shake the car to release the lift from its maximum height. The first time I lifted a car to the maximum when I went to lower the car only one piston was lowering. That freaked me out. It was stuck at the top on one side. You can imagine what was running through my head. Anyway, a stiff shake and that released it.
The only way it would drop is if you had a major hydraulic leak.
Maybe you could sell them cheap? I might be interested.
I've had mine for 2 years and the only complaint is that sometimes I've had to shake the car to release the lift from its maximum height. The first time I lifted a car to the maximum when I went to lower the car only one piston was lowering. That freaked me out. It was stuck at the top on one side. You can imagine what was running through my head. Anyway, a stiff shake and that released it.
The only way it would drop is if you had a major hydraulic leak.
Maybe you could sell them cheap? I might be interested.
In My Garage
Well-known member
Re: Positioning He can
I'm just following manufacturer's instructions and they are based on design.
It does matter if you want a more securely planted vehicle on the lift while you are working on it.
I'm just following manufacturer's instructions and they are based on design.
It does matter if you want a more securely planted vehicle on the lift while you are working on it.
In My Garage
Well-known member
Wondering why.
Are your columns aligned front to back and at the same height?
Are the columns vertical using a level?
Are the sliders greased?
Cylinder binding because you had the pump running at full extension?
Such as a hydraulic cylinder failing or a hose letting go.
I'll be in MTL end of February.
motorheadsdiygarage
Well-known member
Columns are aligned and level.
I greased the sliders.
Like I said, the only way for it to collapse is losing the fluid. It would have to be a major leak.
PM me your details.
Thanks Dave
I greased the sliders.
Like I said, the only way for it to collapse is losing the fluid. It would have to be a major leak.
PM me your details.
Thanks Dave
demoderbydave
Well-known member
Cobra4B
Well-known member
Subscribing for future use.
skamp
Well-known member
I think that mounting system falls into the category of "that **** ain't no joke". Well done. I feel very comfortable under mine and would feel even better with something like you did.
Steve
In My Garage
Well-known member
Steve, there is nothing wrong with anchors. They are used in commercial installations without issues.
I had this home built and if I would have known I was going to install a lift, as a minimum, I would have poured a 6 inch reinforced slab in the garage.
In fact, MaxJax does specify a reinforced slab amongst a slew of other we are saving our **** against a lawsuit instructions.
skamp
Well-known member
Absolutly. I feel totally safe under mine with the anchors. There is a lot of margin with the regular anchors. With that said there is nothing wrong with more margin.
Steve
Interesting, I have not read anything in my manual about a reinforced slab???
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abstamaria
Well-known member
Re: Positioning the car
Thanks, Alex. It seems to me that the critical positioning issue is centering the COG between the front and rear lift pads. This is a not an issue with Porsche 993s on, as these models already have the factory designated lift points. Once the car is lifted on these four points, it should be securely planted, regardless of where the posts are relative to the car. I lift my car without regard to the posts, but do try to get even arm extensions.
There may be issues with having the COG closer to the front or rear arms, thereby inducing some torsional stress (the rear or front arms will be carrying a heavier weight), but the resulting problem would be the more heavily weighted arms bending more than the other set or the columns twisting toward the heavier end. I think (or hope!) these structural problems are unlikely, particularly with the relatively low weight of our cars.
If the lift is well made and secured, the more relevant COG issue in my assessment would be what I first mentioned above. This is all theoretical discussion, very interesting to me, but I appreciate your OC approach to this. I am much the same.
By the way, I have 120” between my posts, measured from the outside of the bottom plates.
Incidentally, I assume you are using the Porsche jack adapters? I need to use them as my car is very low and the square Maxjax pads will foul the rocker covers. The pegs will lock the car even more securely on the Maxjax pads. Here are what I use.
You have a a very secure footing!
Andy
Thanks, Alex. It seems to me that the critical positioning issue is centering the COG between the front and rear lift pads. This is a not an issue with Porsche 993s on, as these models already have the factory designated lift points. Once the car is lifted on these four points, it should be securely planted, regardless of where the posts are relative to the car. I lift my car without regard to the posts, but do try to get even arm extensions.
There may be issues with having the COG closer to the front or rear arms, thereby inducing some torsional stress (the rear or front arms will be carrying a heavier weight), but the resulting problem would be the more heavily weighted arms bending more than the other set or the columns twisting toward the heavier end. I think (or hope!) these structural problems are unlikely, particularly with the relatively low weight of our cars.
If the lift is well made and secured, the more relevant COG issue in my assessment would be what I first mentioned above. This is all theoretical discussion, very interesting to me, but I appreciate your OC approach to this. I am much the same.
By the way, I have 120” between my posts, measured from the outside of the bottom plates.
Incidentally, I assume you are using the Porsche jack adapters? I need to use them as my car is very low and the square Maxjax pads will foul the rocker covers. The pegs will lock the car even more securely on the Maxjax pads. Here are what I use.
You have a a very secure footing!
Andy
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In My Garage
Well-known member
I see you found the statement, but here it is for everybody else...
From the MaxJax on-line (web) info...
From the MaxJax Instruction Manual, Page 3 (shown in both Revision B 7-2011 and C 2-2012)...
"reinforced with steel bar". They don't say to what extent nor do they say to any standard. In my case, they'd have a very tough time arguing the point.
les_garten
Banned
Re: Positioning the car
Who makes these pads and where did you get them? Anything that will crawl under a Porsche is a good thing!
Incidentally, I assume you are using the Porsche jack adapters? I need to use them as my car is very low and the square Maxjax pads will foul the rocker covers. The pegs will lock the car even more securely on the Maxjax pads. Here are what I use.
You have a a very secure footing!
Andy
Who makes these pads and where did you get them? Anything that will crawl under a Porsche is a good thing!
In My Garage
Well-known member
Re: Positioning the car
Yes, they are factory designed lift points, but they are also designed with the roadside jack in mind. The Owner's Manual even specifies which of the rear lift points to use for that purpose.
You also need to spread those lift points out as far as possible for stability, but that does not mean the C of G is necessarily between them. In fact, it isn't, even for a car with a 50-50 weight bias (depends where they place those lift points).
Using the weights out of the Porsche Technical Specifications 94-95 Model booklet, they list 550 Kg front and 820 Kg rear. And even that will depend on installed options, etc....but we are splitting hairs at that point. According to my C of G chart, 13.4 inches ahead of the center of the rear lift point.
Here is a top view with the C of G centered on the MaxJax column. Note the marked line in the concrete.
Also, if you look at the design of the polyethylene load bearings, they are better suited to loads inwards than front to back, so a balanced load puts less side loads during lifting. Note also that MaxJax states online, "polyethylene load bearings that never need lubrication and last virtually the life of the lift", yet the MaxJax Instruction Manual states to lube them with white grease. Oh well!
I am...
The MaxJax online info even states...
I can see why. Maintaining positioning and alignment of separate anchors without a jig would be next to impossible. My method is foolproof and stronger.
Yes, they are factory designed lift points, but they are also designed with the roadside jack in mind. The Owner's Manual even specifies which of the rear lift points to use for that purpose.
You also need to spread those lift points out as far as possible for stability, but that does not mean the C of G is necessarily between them. In fact, it isn't, even for a car with a 50-50 weight bias (depends where they place those lift points).
Using the weights out of the Porsche Technical Specifications 94-95 Model booklet, they list 550 Kg front and 820 Kg rear. And even that will depend on installed options, etc....but we are splitting hairs at that point. According to my C of G chart, 13.4 inches ahead of the center of the rear lift point.
Here is a top view with the C of G centered on the MaxJax column. Note the marked line in the concrete.
Also, if you look at the design of the polyethylene load bearings, they are better suited to loads inwards than front to back, so a balanced load puts less side loads during lifting. Note also that MaxJax states online, "polyethylene load bearings that never need lubrication and last virtually the life of the lift", yet the MaxJax Instruction Manual states to lube them with white grease. Oh well!
I am...
The MaxJax online info even states...
I can see why. Maintaining positioning and alignment of separate anchors without a jig would be next to impossible. My method is foolproof and stronger.
abstamaria
Well-known member
Thanks for the explanation, Alex. being obsessive as well, I might just follow your lead. I wonder where the CofG on my 996 GT3 would be though.
Andy
Andy
abstamaria
Well-known member
Pads
I don't have the brand here now, Les, but the pads are available from several Porsche aftermarket vendors on the Internet. And there are interesting variations, too. However, they are specific to Porsche.
Andy
I don't have the brand here now, Les, but the pads are available from several Porsche aftermarket vendors on the Internet. And there are interesting variations, too. However, they are specific to Porsche.
Andy
In My Garage
Well-known member
Andy, easy enough to figure out with a few dimensions. That said, its been a very long time since I've been a flight instructor (hated being poor) when I used to do weight and balance calculations (same principle).
You need the following dimensions: distance between lift points, the distance from the rear lift point to the rear axle, the distance from the front lift point to the front axle and the weight over each axle.
This is a snap shot of my C of G Excel spreadsheet. If those numbers are wrong, someone can get back to me with the correct numbers and math.
abstamaria
Well-known member
Many thanks, Alex. That is useful.
Andy
Andy
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
I used the same custom anchoring as "In my Garage" did and I feel more safe under the car. I would recommend it to all new maxjax users.
In My Garage
Well-known member
Can you post some photos. I'm curious how you went about it.
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
Sorry i do not have pictures. I welded the anchors and used a wood rail instead of your metal one. Better yours. The thing is that it is impossible for the anchors to move or pop out or rotate or become loose. Your installation is better done...
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
Re: Positioning the car
Andres
I see a strange blue creature on the top picture. Why is the jack not red ?
Thanks, Alex. It seems to me that the critical positioning issue is centering the COG between the front and rear lift pads. This is a not an issue with Porsche 993s on, as these models already have the factory designated lift points. Once the car is lifted on these four points, it should be securely planted, regardless of where the posts are relative to the car. I lift my car without regard to the posts, but do try to get even arm extensions.
There may be issues with having the COG closer to the front or rear arms, thereby inducing some torsional stress (the rear or front arms will be carrying a heavier weight), but the resulting problem would be the more heavily weighted arms bending more than the other set or the columns twisting toward the heavier end. I think (or hope!) these structural problems are unlikely, particularly with the relatively low weight of our cars.
If the lift is well made and secured, the more relevant COG issue in my assessment would be what I first mentioned above. This is all theoretical discussion, very interesting to me, but I appreciate your OC approach to this. I am much the same.
By the way, I have 120” between my posts, measured from the outside of the bottom plates.
Incidentally, I assume you are using the Porsche jack adapters? I need to use them as my car is very low and the square Maxjax pads will foul the rocker covers. The pegs will lock the car even more securely on the Maxjax pads. Here are what I use.
You have a a very secure footing!
Andy
Andres
I see a strange blue creature on the top picture. Why is the jack not red ?
les_garten
Banned
In My Garage
Well-known member
Most lifts have locks every 4 to 6 inches as they rise. I'm wondering why the MaxJax doesn't and that has me worried about any failure that would cause loss of hydraulic fluid while the lift is in transit.
So my gears started spinning and I have a design in my noggin that I hope to implement on my lift some day; I have too many projects already on the go and in memory storage. No mods to any of the MaxJax components themselves, just an add-on, nice and simple.
So my gears started spinning and I have a design in my noggin that I hope to implement on my lift some day; I have too many projects already on the go and in memory storage. No mods to any of the MaxJax components themselves, just an add-on, nice and simple.
In My Garage
Well-known member
Re: Positioning the car
Because it is most likely an AC Hydraulic brand jack, which are blue.
Because it is most likely an AC Hydraulic brand jack, which are blue.
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
Yes, bur Andres paints everything red,,including the dog....