Maxjax Installs: Post Here
- Thread starter G-force
- Start date
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
I'm getting so close to installing mine.. should be bringing it up this weekend!!!! It's starting to get warm.
Is there ANY downfall to putting epoxy on the stock anchor bolts and then tighening them down? Kind of like when you glue and screw wood together... I know people say use one or the other but what harm can come if the anchor bites into the concrete before the epoxy cures?
Not realy concerned with the epoxy being in the bottom of the whole but more around the anchor bolt...
Thanks,
-Nigel
Is there ANY downfall to putting epoxy on the stock anchor bolts and then tighening them down? Kind of like when you glue and screw wood together... I know people say use one or the other but what harm can come if the anchor bites into the concrete before the epoxy cures?
Not realy concerned with the epoxy being in the bottom of the whole but more around the anchor bolt...
Thanks,
-Nigel
OEMPartHaus
Member
Good info in here. My parts store recently became a dealer.
Installed one at my dad's house and he's loving it.
Installed one at my dad's house and he's loving it.
les_garten
Banned
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
I guess it would depend on the subject we are talking about..lol
But seriously, a guy on my facebook install his maxjax and he said his anchors got lifted up some or right UP to the bottom of the plate after torqueing the bolts down and lifting a car... so that worries me as far as after i torque them down.. and they are still below the cement but lift a little after they are bolted down to the posts?
I figured that if I put epoxy around the anchors and then did the method of installing the anchor bolt as it bites into the concrete the epoxy would them kinda hold it there if that makes sense...
That's all I was thinking... not trying to make things more complicated but look at most of us on here, we do things well above and beyond what any normal person does to ensure it's right the first time and stays right...
Thanks,
-Nigel
les_garten
Banned
Here's the deal. If the anchors are lifting, that means one of two things that I can think of. The concrete is **** or the holes were drilled improperly. Most likely the latter.
Take your time and make sure you get a very clean perfect hole. Have someone spot you as you drill. Drill a perfect, plumb, not wallowed out hole.
I have lasers for plumb to do mine. Use a GOOD Hammerdrill that this job is no sweat for it and a good bit. If you do those things, the bolts will hold forever.
Everytime I've had an anchor screwup it was my fault. I knew something was hinky during the drilling.
Get a Good Bosch Hammerdrill or rent a Hilti from the depot.
I agree with les. If your anchors are pulling up after you tightened them, you "rounded" the hole due to the drill wobbling during drilling. ALL of my anchors tightened up almost immediately and did NOT raise that much. Did you say you wanted to put epoxy on the bolts ??? What if you want to remove the bolts later on down the road???? OOpps, not gonna happen.
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
Excellent information! Thank you, that makes me feel better then. I guess I just imagine the anchors that you put in dry wall and if you put the screw in them too far they just come out... that's what I invision with concrete but worse I guess since concrete doesn't move at all...
I don't want to turn this into a how to thread but so far the information in this thread is very very good! Actually I don't think it could get much better with all of the experiences.
When you say make sure you drill a plumb hole what is the BEST way of doing so. Does the actual drill have a level on it indicting that you are drilling a perfectly straight hole? I've used a drill and own many so drilling in drywall and wood for the most part is easier since it's right next to the surface. Drilling in concrete hoenstly does worry me a little mainly because I've never done it before.
Thanks again!
-Nigel
I don't want to turn this into a how to thread but so far the information in this thread is very very good! Actually I don't think it could get much better with all of the experiences.
When you say make sure you drill a plumb hole what is the BEST way of doing so. Does the actual drill have a level on it indicting that you are drilling a perfectly straight hole? I've used a drill and own many so drilling in drywall and wood for the most part is easier since it's right next to the surface. Drilling in concrete hoenstly does worry me a little mainly because I've never done it before.
Thanks again!
-Nigel
les_garten
Banned
It's very easy for the person doing the drilling to get off at an angle. I would do one of two things. You need at least 1 or 2 people to help you.
Have people who you can trust, eyeball you as you drill. They should be eyeballing from 2 different directions, 90 degrees from each other. That should get you started and have them watch you. If one can run a shop vac and vacuum up dust at the same time, so much the better.
Or get 2 laser levels with 2 guys to watch them and line them up on your bit.
OR get one guy who knows what you are doing and have him watch 2 angles.
Main thing IMO, don't do it by yourself. Get someone who knows what you are trying to accomplish to help out for a 6-pack or 2 of some tasty suds. Gonna take a little while to drill them all.
The better the hammerdrill, the better chance of getting a good hole in my opinion. You make holes that **** with a Hammerdrill that *****. Don't try to do this with a Cordless Dewalt 18v Hammerdrill, sure you know that, but felt I should state the obvious. The Hilti's at HD are pretty stout. You want something that will practically drop thru the slab on it's own. The Bosch Hammerdrills do pretty well too.
Convince him/her to crack open the suds at the end, that way not a total suds loss!
Maybe some other folks will pipe in here with some tips or tricks.
Feel free to ask questions, this is kinda the MaxJax club thread, you're a card carryin' member now!
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mercury26
Well-known member
The other important is cleaning the drilled holes. If you clean them and think they are clean, then clean them again or more. Mechanical and epoxy (chemical) like extremely clean surfaces to set.
I agree that this site is very helpful.
Kind Regards,
Chuck
RAYJAY
Well-known member
need some help on the maxjax need the size of the bottom plate so i can lay out the area i want the lift in
they give you size for the out side of the posts but need the inside demisions so i can do a mock up to get my truck to pull straight in
jeff
they give you size for the out side of the posts but need the inside demisions so i can do a mock up to get my truck to pull straight in
jeff
Airborne Ed
Well-known member
I just installed my Max Jax this past Friday .What helped me was I made a wooden plug from using a hole saw to fit the plate holes on the jack and with the i/4 " inch hole in the wooden plug I was able to spot a center point using a 1/4 "masonary bit in the concrete Then had a friend spot plumb for the 5/8 s and 7/8 drlll bits . Worked out great .
The install instructions suggests that the back side of the plates be about 130 inches apart if you are going to lift a pickup. So it should not really matter what the inside dimensions are.
The instructions also say to snap a chalk line along the forward sides of the plates and from the back side to insure the plates are square to each other. Having that line helps to line up the side of the plates to each other. The instructions also say the plates can't be more than 1/8" off from that chalk line.
les_garten
Banned
Danmar sent me this flow control valve to resolve some persistent uneven lifting issues with my MaxJax. I was told to install it on the line that is lifting faster and restrict the flow to even it out. My question is: does anyone know which side goes towards the pump and which towards the cylinder? Or does it not matter? Thank you.
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motorheadsdiygarage
Well-known member
High pressure needle valves with a check valve - allows controlled flow one way and full flow in the other direction. Often used to control the descent of a cylinder which is holding up a load, without restricting inflow.
Flow would be from A to B according to the drawing.
Test by blowing air through and adjusting the Knob.
Flow would be from A to B according to the drawing.
Test by blowing air through and adjusting the Knob.
RAYJAY
Well-known member
I'm trying to lay out where i need to install i don't have a direct straight shot into my work space, need to put mock up column's and try to drive in to see where i need to test drill ( and see if i can really use the maxjax in my garage the picture below show kinda the angle i have to pull in.
Jeff
IONH
Well-known member
Your ceiling looks quite low, maybe 7 feet tops. Are you planning on removing part of the suspended ceiling to accommodate this lift? If not, are you sure it's worth while having the lift since I don't think you'd even be able to sit on a chair under it at max lift with a car.
regguy1
Well-known member
Here's some noted from my experience, Clean the holes ,clean the holes....any dust from drilling will cause the anchors to 'slip' and not bite properly
I copied and pasted this from another post I made, I had some issues with the anchor installation this might be of help during your install:
Here's the update, I've got the lift installed and running. It looks like a nice unit. The power unit is quieter than I thought it would be. Installation was straight forward.
I think setting of the anchors is the most critical part of the installation procedure. A couple of things I'll mention from my experience of this one installation. Let me say this first, I'm not a pro lift installer and the following are my opinions only. Drill the holes as per instructions. Do a through job of cleaning the holes. Even though the supplied anchors (Wej-It PD58) are not specificly epoxy style units I'd recommend using a good quality epoxy for additional integrity of anchor bond to concrete. I coated the hole and the exterior of anchors before driving them in. Drive them the 5/8" below concrete as instructions call for, I wouldn't go less.
Now thread the sacraficial bolt with washer and nut finger tight into the anchor, hold the bolt head (you do not want the anchor to rotate in the hole) and tighten the nut to set the anchor, the lift instruction booklet says tighen until anchor is flush with the concrete surface.....The instructions that came in the box of anchors say no more than 4 turns for the 5/8" bolts size. I found that at about 3 turns I could feel the anchors bite hard into the concrete even though they were still 1/8" -3/16" below the surface of floor. I think it's fine (and even preferable) to leave them slightly down because when you tighten the bolts to the base plate if the anchor is not holding properly you'll realize it when torquing the bolts, but with the anchor flush it can contact the bottom of the base plate and feel tight even though not fully anchored in the hole.
Page 13 step 14 of the lift installation manual tells you to install anchor bolts to base plate and tighten 3 to 3 3/4 turns. I believe this is in error, the anchors have already been set with the bolt and nut procedure. These bolts should be torqued betweem 70-95 Ft Lbs according to Wej-it (95) and Dannmar (70).
I found it impossible to get 3+ turns after anchors were set and it caused a couple anchors to pull up (perhaps they rotated in the hole and lost grip ?) and I have to replace them.
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
Wonderful!!
Excellent info. This may sound stupid but to clean the holes can one use something like brake clean and spray since it evaporates quickly to make any loose particales go away? Did you also drill completely through your slab? And lastly exactly what epoxy did you get becuase I wanted to do the same as far as putting them on the holes and anchors JUST in case type of deal... But at the same time wouldn't that affect the anchor bolt biting into the concrete. Aplogies if these are silly questions but I wan tto make sure 100 % I'm on lock and not come across something and be like welp F... now I have something unsafe or improperly setup in my garage...lol
Thanks for your info! Very helpful!
-Nigel
les_garten
Banned
regguy1
Well-known member
I'd use the bottle brush and blow them with compresed air and do it all again with the brush dipped in alcohol so it dries up nicely. I did drill the through the slab, good thing as I had to replace a couple anchors due to the faulty (over) torquing instructions (Dannmar may have since changed them) If you should happen to have a problem you'll be able to drive the anchor/s down into the gravel/dirt below.
Here's the epoxy I used, mixes using a single tube caulking gun, let it cure overnight after you've done the anchor setting procedure, you can test your installation integrity by using 2 sockets and a stout metal plate with a hole in the center, install bolt through the plate and torque to 70-90ft lbs, you'll know if there's any movement. Mine were rock solid.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002V0QSYE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Here's the epoxy I used, mixes using a single tube caulking gun, let it cure overnight after you've done the anchor setting procedure, you can test your installation integrity by using 2 sockets and a stout metal plate with a hole in the center, install bolt through the plate and torque to 70-90ft lbs, you'll know if there's any movement. Mine were rock solid.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002V0QSYE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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RAYJAY
Well-known member
no its a full 8 foot ceiling in my shop area, i might dome a section out any way for my truck the cars will be no problem at all
Jeff
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
Welp I got way more questions now since I actually brought up the max jax from the basement and put it in the garage...
What is the spacing that you HAVE to have between the garage footer and the back of the bolts. Currently I have it 6" from the footer/wall. Is this enough or does it need to be more? Ideally I'd like to put it right up against the wall if possible mainly because the left post is going to be stationary... and not move pretty much...
Next did you guys measure via pulling in the garage or backing up? I did both and they are very similar...
Next problem. I have them currently set from back edge to back edge of each post at 124". I tried 130 and that might be too wide. Might go 125 just to have an extra inch but wondering if that really matters...
I have noticed however though that there is more space on one side compared to the next... is this safe? IE: Left side of arms will extend 3" more under the car than the right side... I've taken pictures.
From wall.. I made a little ruller to then play around and move the post if need be... But what is the recommended distance from wall, it doesn't say anything in the manual that I have:
Next up is the post spacing.. You can see that since the spacing is off because of the dual garage it's hard to make it even on both sides because of the wall on the right...
More spacing on left:
RIGHT Spacing:
LEFT Spacing:
I guess I could either back up or pull in MORE on the left side but then I run the risk of getting too close to the brick and messing up vehicle...
Just wondering if these are stupid questions of if I am over thinking everything again?
Reg: Thank you for the pics of the epoxy!! I'm going to order that! How many tubes did you go through or how many do you recommend I purchase? I've used epoxy in the past and the little tube litterly got hard after minutes, So is it one of those things where it's pretty much going to be use a little bit from one tube for one hole and then it's done, then start a new tube or were you able to get a couple holes done with a single tube?
Thanks all!
-Nigel
What is the spacing that you HAVE to have between the garage footer and the back of the bolts. Currently I have it 6" from the footer/wall. Is this enough or does it need to be more? Ideally I'd like to put it right up against the wall if possible mainly because the left post is going to be stationary... and not move pretty much...
Next did you guys measure via pulling in the garage or backing up? I did both and they are very similar...
Next problem. I have them currently set from back edge to back edge of each post at 124". I tried 130 and that might be too wide. Might go 125 just to have an extra inch but wondering if that really matters...
I have noticed however though that there is more space on one side compared to the next... is this safe? IE: Left side of arms will extend 3" more under the car than the right side... I've taken pictures.
From wall.. I made a little ruller to then play around and move the post if need be... But what is the recommended distance from wall, it doesn't say anything in the manual that I have:
Next up is the post spacing.. You can see that since the spacing is off because of the dual garage it's hard to make it even on both sides because of the wall on the right...
More spacing on left:
RIGHT Spacing:
LEFT Spacing:
I guess I could either back up or pull in MORE on the left side but then I run the risk of getting too close to the brick and messing up vehicle...
Just wondering if these are stupid questions of if I am over thinking everything again?
Reg: Thank you for the pics of the epoxy!! I'm going to order that! How many tubes did you go through or how many do you recommend I purchase? I've used epoxy in the past and the little tube litterly got hard after minutes, So is it one of those things where it's pretty much going to be use a little bit from one tube for one hole and then it's done, then start a new tube or were you able to get a couple holes done with a single tube?
Thanks all!
-Nigel
RAYJAY
Well-known member
if bottom plates are 13" deep that that would be 130" - 26" = 104" between inside of columns
regguy1
Well-known member
One tube of epoxy will do all 10 anchors...with some left over. I'd drill all the holes first, one at a time might let the epoxy set in the mixing tube. The remainder won't harden as the 2 components are not mixed until they're in the nozzle.
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
Would you recommend this bottle brush or is it something that needs to be nylon?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032CYTFK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
this is another really stupid question but oh well..lol
So normally when leveling things on the wall I use a level, which tells me that it is level or not... But with things sticking UP from the garage how exactly do I make sure everything is at the same angle/and parallel with each other.
I saw somewhere that I take the back left corner of one post and measure it to the back right corner of the other post and then switch it and see if the measurements are the same...
But how do I make sure I'm not an degree off IE:
I made a quick drawing.. it's over exaggerated so you can see but that's my problem now... When I measure the left post from the wall I want to make sure that it's the correct spacing from the entire left edge of the post but by doing so I would then not able to match it with the right post? I've never measured anything like this so I feel stupid for asking how to make sure the measure measurement is correct... Directions say snap a chalk line but if I snap a chalk line how do I make it completely straight and not angled any way...
Like this:
| instead of slight of like \ across the room...
Thanks,
-Nigel
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032CYTFK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
this is another really stupid question but oh well..lol
So normally when leveling things on the wall I use a level, which tells me that it is level or not... But with things sticking UP from the garage how exactly do I make sure everything is at the same angle/and parallel with each other.
I saw somewhere that I take the back left corner of one post and measure it to the back right corner of the other post and then switch it and see if the measurements are the same...
But how do I make sure I'm not an degree off IE:
I made a quick drawing.. it's over exaggerated so you can see but that's my problem now... When I measure the left post from the wall I want to make sure that it's the correct spacing from the entire left edge of the post but by doing so I would then not able to match it with the right post? I've never measured anything like this so I feel stupid for asking how to make sure the measure measurement is correct... Directions say snap a chalk line but if I snap a chalk line how do I make it completely straight and not angled any way...
Like this:
| instead of slight of like \ across the room...
Thanks,
-Nigel
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skamp
Well-known member
That brush is fine. You will want to clean the hole while you have the vacuum on top sucking out the dust. Do this at least 3 time.
As far as the columns, you still use a level but check for plumb (lift column is straight). The lift comes with shims to get the columns plumb. You should use a 4' level. I used one of the magnetic ones and check for plumb on both faces of the column. I hope this helps.
97dynaglide
Well-known member
I measured from the south wall of my garage (blue lines in pic) to set the columns.
I then squared them (the red lines in pic). Doing it this way, I ended up only 1/8" off when the columns are mounted to the floor/anchors. If I wanted to I could easily take that 1/8 out by adjusting the columns before I torque them.
In My Garage
Well-known member
All you need is thin strong string (black fishing line) and a level.
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
I measured from the south wall of my garage (blue lines in pic) to set the columns.
I then squared them (the red lines in pic). Doing it this way, I ended up only 1/8" off when the columns are mounted to the floor/anchors. If I wanted to I could easily take that 1/8 out by adjusting the columns before I torque them.
[/IMG]
Excellent thank you that helps greatly!
So I measure from the front corners to the front corners of the post, not the back corners... I did the back last time but I guess it would be easier using the front corners.
Another silly question on the bit. I have searched many sites. I have seen some bits called Masonary bits, some percussion Masonry, Rock Carbide. But whqt is the correct bit I am looking for exactly as far as the name is concerned? Is masonary different from a concrete bit or no? I always thought masonary WAS for brick/cement.
Next I figure I might as well buy the hammer drill.. I'll use it again for something. What size is recommended?
Bosch 11255VSR BULLDOG Xtreme 1-Inch SDS-plus D-Handle Rotary Hammer
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BB79Q6/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Bosch RH228VC 1-1/8-Inch SDS-plus Rotary Hammer
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006030DQM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Bosch RH328VC 1-1/8-Inch SDS Rotary Hammer: This one looks heavy duty or is it just the shape? I think out of all of them this seems like the one I'd probably get unless someone says it's horrible or the others are better?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DQO7ES/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Bosch 11264EVS 1-5/8 SDS-Max Combination Hammer: This one looks like it could conquer all...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0020ML69K/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I don't mind spending money on a quailty tool I just don't want to buy a hammer drill that is ok at best and then I drill the holes wrong...
-Nigel
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In My Garage
Well-known member
Those edges are rounded so it will be hard to accurately make out to which point you are measuring.
Just loop a string around both columns and note how they make contact with the sides. If they make contact evenly, you are lined up. Next, take a very thin piece of bristol board (thin non-corrugated cardboard) and slip it under the string at the sides and at the back edge. The gap at the front edge should now be the thickness of the cardboard.
les_garten
Banned
Excellent thank you that helps greatly!
So I measure from the front corners to the front corners of the post, not the back corners... I did the back last time but I guess it would be easier using the front corners.
Another silly question on the bit. I have searched many sites. I have seen some bits called Masonary bits, some percussion Masonry, Rock Carbide.
Next I figure I might as well buy the hammer drill.. I'll use it again for something. What size is recommended?
Bosch 11255VSR BULLDOG Xtreme 1-Inch SDS-plus D-Handle Rotary Hammer
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BB79Q6/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Bosch RH228VC 1-1/8-Inch SDS-plus Rotary Hammer
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006030DQM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Bosch RH328VC 1-1/8-Inch SDS Rotary Hammer: This one looks heavy duty or is it just the shape? I think out of all of them this seems like the one I'd probably get unless someone says it's horrible or the others are better?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DQO7ES/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Bosch 11264EVS 1-5/8 SDS-Max Combination Hammer: This one looks like it could conquer all...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0020ML69K/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I don't mind spending money on a quailty tool I just don't want to buy a hammer drill that is ok at best and then I drill the holes wrong...
-Nigel
Each one of those hammerdrills has different specs. More amps draw, more foot pounds, MO HAMMERING!
It makes a big difference. The faster you can cut that hole, IMO the less chance you have to screw it up.
Buy as much drill as you can afford. These things are very handy for concrete removal, chipping up tile, etc
You can measure like that from the front of the base catty cornered, that would give a nice point to measure from. Just take your time and compare every measure point you can check.
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
So I'm on their site now getting ready to buy some 90' fittings after looking at others setups.
The user manual states that the fittings are currently NPT 3/8"
However on the site they have listed NPTF?
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/Steel_Fittings_Adapters_s/21.htm
Also they have Stainless steel fittings and Steel fittings. There is quite a price difference between the two.
For instance. The 3/8" s/s male/female 90' elbow is $28 PER fitting.
The 3/8" steel male/female 90' elbow is $3... quite a big difference in price.
Which one to get?
I don't want to go cheap on fittings but at the same time I don't want to spend $200 EXTRA just for some fittings... any insight on why one is so much more expensive would be great.... I don't want anything to rust or corrode after awhile either.
Will those work with our systems? I just don't want to order the wrong ones and be stuck with them.
Also I plan on mounting the pump at the wall.. I only have what appears to be two female diconnects for the posts... should I pick up two more for the pump that is going to be mounted on the wall or just screw the hoses in directly to the diverter valve? I can't see the hoses moving since the pump will be stationary, right?
Thanks much,
-Nigel
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NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
So everything i've read thus far says space the anchor 5/8" below the concrete: On the screen shot of the anchor from Wej it' they are saying 1/2"
What's right?
I seem to be getting more confused on the entire process off anchoring these from everything I've seen... IN short.
I drill the hole. Tap the anchor down to X depth below the surface. then put my socket breaker bar on the BOLT head and keep that stationary, and ONLY turn the nut below it.. up to 3-4 turn until it pulls the anchor up?
Then I see to torque it to 90'ft lbs... how do I know the anchor is at 90ft lbs of torque if I can't turn the bolt? I don't have a wrench that tells me the tq setting only actual tq wrenches that sockets attach to.. not a hand wrench...
EDIT:
I think I am reading everything wrong now.. this is driving me nuts. Taking a break and looking at it once my head clears...
-Nigel
What's right?
I seem to be getting more confused on the entire process off anchoring these from everything I've seen... IN short.
I drill the hole. Tap the anchor down to X depth below the surface. then put my socket breaker bar on the BOLT head and keep that stationary, and ONLY turn the nut below it.. up to 3-4 turn until it pulls the anchor up?
Then I see to torque it to 90'ft lbs... how do I know the anchor is at 90ft lbs of torque if I can't turn the bolt? I don't have a wrench that tells me the tq setting only actual tq wrenches that sockets attach to.. not a hand wrench...
EDIT:
I think I am reading everything wrong now.. this is driving me nuts. Taking a break and looking at it once my head clears...
-Nigel
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pattenp
Well-known member
I think you may be misinterpreting the instructions. Even though I don't have the total instructions I believe the nut and washer are used for the initial setting of the anchor by turning the 3 to 4 turns. Once that is done, I'd remove the nut and washer and place the lift column in place and insert the bolt and then tighten to 90 ft lb.
Edit: After torquing to 90 ft lb, remove column and check to make sure the anchor has not pulled up flush to the bottom of the base plate.
Edit2: I just read the MaxJax install instructions and it seems straight forward as how to install the anchors.
Edit: After torquing to 90 ft lb, remove column and check to make sure the anchor has not pulled up flush to the bottom of the base plate.
Edit2: I just read the MaxJax install instructions and it seems straight forward as how to install the anchors.
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