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MaxJax Transport, Install, Impression, and Comparison

regguy1

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On Mount Olympus with Zeus
I just love to see fellow MJ owners chime in! I'll have you to know Les, I was very skeptical about the MJ and shopped and shopped, but kept coming back to the MJ! Between this site and it being shown on Jay Leno's site, that's pretty much what sold it! Then Joe Vermillion was just as nice as he could be to deal with. Be sure to mention "group buy" off of this site~ I got the lift for 1800 shipped to a local shipping place. I called the other day for possibly buying the 6" extensions, but they are about 40 bucks each, so I think I"m going to go ahead and drill holes, but when I'm able to roll the lift outdoors when we pour concrete, I may splurge and buy the extensions.

If you should decide to purchase it, it would be a good time for extending the hoses, putting 90 degree fittings at the base of the columns, etc. there's a lot of information on this, however, you can "upgrade" at anytime down the line. I just got tired of having to move the pump roller cart, disconnecting a quick coupler, then move a car out. Now I just drive in, put the car in the air. I wanted to put the pump on the wall permanently ,but again, may be moving it outdoors from time to time. I'll be posting what we're doing here after I'm sure we're doing it.

Ps; I had to relook up the weight of my '57, and it is really only about 3200 lbs, but it does look much heavier. My '67 mustang is lighter, but not by much~ amazes me.

As far as additional stuff: HF had their roll around carts/tool box cart for 99 bucks at their sidewalk sale, and then I also bought the Tailbone creeper from geusa, same place that sells the MJ. Joe wasn't there, but Ryan sold it to me, and explained that geusa is a family owned business, I didn't know that!

Mustang is back on the lift~ steering problems with my new rack n pinion!
Cheers!
dne'

Denee,

Do you think that regular Street elbows would work for the 90 degree fittings...?

here's the thread with clearance photos of my MJ, maybe Les would like to look...

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71225
 
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Denee007

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Oct 21, 2010
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Cypress, Tx
Hi Regguy!! Regular street elbows? hm, I just went to a local hydraulic shop(seems like they're all over the place) and bought them. Two of them were only like 10 bucks. Hey, I just bought those lower jack stands you had mentioned and shown! Thank you so much for the tip! more stuff for my lift!! ; )

Yes, I think Les, and just about anyone interested in ceiling height would definitely be interested! My ceiling is not quite 8' and I still think it's the most wonderful "tool" in my garage! I hate jacking cars up with a floor jack! I am spoiled rotten!!
 
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Dolfan

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May 21, 2010
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Greater Atlanta
Installation Revised

OK, I also wanted to make the change to the power unit to get it out of the way during use so I picked up a couple hoses from Northern Tool and some fittings.

I added a 10' hose on the far side and 4' hose on the near side as I had a good place to tuck the power unit into next to my bench and cabinet.

photo-7.JPG


I didn't' need to change all the fittings due to the way I would run the lines but I did add 1 90* fitting to drop the right side hose down next to the cabinet.
photo-6.JPG


I wasn't looking to run the hoses up to the ceiling as I still want the portability, I did however want to get the power unit away from the car as it was crowding the work, and if I want I can still snap off the hoses and store them at the back of the garage off the floor.

The hose on the far side is now out of the way and tucks under my race tire trailer and behind the bench, while the other has more slack and runs from the back of the garage to the post between the two bays.

photo-5.JPG


photo-4.JPG


Not as elaborate as some other installations but it really gives me more work room and cleans up the "lift area" as the power unit had to be right in front of my bench.

I'd like to get the power cord run behind the cabinet or something so it isn't in front, but I just plug it in when needed, not really a hardship!

More to Come.......
 

Denee007

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Cypress, Tx
Cool~ that's "kind of" how I did it! I see the advantage of the 90degree on the right side of your pump now! darn, back to the hydraulic place! lol Just need to figure out how to cover the shorter hose on the ground, something that would protect it somehow.
Good job!
dne'
 

abstamaria

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Jun 24, 2010
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Manila
Dolfan, just a note to thank you for taking the time to put together this very clear thread. You answered a lot of my questions, particularly in relation to mid-rise lifts and the MaxJax. I have an odd collection of cars (a 1948 MG TC with a ladder frane, a Lotus Elan with a backbone frame, and 2 or 3 old monocoque cars), so I have to think this through seriously. Many thanks, again.

Andres
 

martyp

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May 3, 2011
Messages
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CO
Since this is apparently the official maxjax thread I thought I would post my dilemma here to see if you guys (and gals :) ) might be able to lend me a hand. The thread I just posted is at http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1458270#post1458270

Short of it is...I think the bottom pump plate may be clocked incorrectly.

Just about complete with my install and I had the same issue. Danmar told me the same thing - swap the flow divider elbow and plug. Haven't yet done the fill/bleed as I'm awaiting more fittings and hose extensions. Did it work out for you?

Cheers!
M
 

martyp

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May 3, 2011
Messages
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Location
CO
I just love to see fellow MJ owners chime in!
-snip-
As far as additional stuff: HF had their roll around carts/tool box cart for 99 bucks at their sidewalk sale, and then I also bought the Tailbone creeper from geusa, same place that sells the MJ.
-snip-

Are you happy with the Tailbone? I'm considering one as well.
Thanks!
M
 

martyp

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CO
Dolfan, just a note to thank you for taking the time to put together this very clear thread. You answered a lot of my questions, particularly in relation to mid-rise lifts and the MaxJax. I have an odd collection of cars (a 1948 MG TC with a ladder frane, a Lotus Elan with a backbone frame, and 2 or 3 old monocoque cars), so I have to think this through seriously. Many thanks, again.

Andres

+1 - Thanks Dolfan and all who posted, this thread has been a great help
 

abstamaria

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Distance Between Posts

I've got the MaxJax. It works fine in my 8' garage and I like being able to move the posts easily. ... Even with my 8 foot ceiling I'm giving away a foot or more of lift with my low convertibles (MGA, XKE, MG Midget).

Dmeadow,

What is the distance between your posts?

I am thinking seriously about getting a MaxJax and am checking where I might install it. We have a similar range of cars (not too many 60s sports cars on GJ). I had an MGA till last year, but still have my 1948 MGTC. Your XKE celebrates the 50th anniversary of its introduction this year. I would love one.

I sent you a PM. but am not sure this has gotten through.

Many thanks,

Andres
 
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Dolfan

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Greater Atlanta
Hey folks, glad this thread has been helpful to many of you.

My posts are installed at 124" spacing, I know it is not much difference but I wish I had gone 126" or even 128". In my case on the C5 vette I never even have the arms extended with the jacking points being at the edge of the car, but the C5 is a wide car. For a small sports car like the MG's and other I would think that 124" would be fine.

One thing I would do in planning the spacing is measure the width of the cars jacking locations that you will be working on and use that as a guide. I would even set the post in place and see how the placement work for you widest car.
 

dmeadow

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Houston, Texas
I did correspond with Andres, and for the record I have my Maxjax at 111" to the back of the flange.

This is as close as I can get them and still be able to fit the MGA and the XKE. My problem is that the lift points are very far apart on the XKE (rear radius arm and front wishbone mount). Therefore, I've got to have the posts fairly close together and the arms only barely reach those points at their full extension.

The MGA points are just inboard of the tires so the arms are fully retracted when I lift it.

I've also got a 2007 MINI that goes on the lift pretty easily with arms pretty much full retracted at that distance (lift points just inboard of the tires).

I have a MG Midget and a MGTD that I haven't put on the lift, yet, but both are narrower than the MGA and have similar lift points, so I expect they will fit fine.

I don't lift any cars any larger than these, so the 111" works OK. I expect it would be too narrow for most folks. If I didn't have the XKE to lift, then I would have set them a bit further back.
 

petee_c

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Oct 4, 2010
Messages
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KW area, Ontario CANADA
my maxjax just arrived. Something I overlooked.....

The pump calls for a 20amp circuit, but it is a 15 amp plug.... I am assuming the amperage requirement goes up with the weight of the vehicles that may be on the lift...

My vehicles are between 2800-3500lbs. Should I be ok with my current outlets/ and a good extension cord?

Anyone running their maxjax on a 15amp circuit?
 
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Dolfan

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Greater Atlanta
my maxjax just arrived. Something I overlooked.....

The pump calls for a 20amp circuit, but it is a 15 amp plug.... I am assuming the amperage requirement goes up with the weight of the vehicles that may be on the lift...

My vehicles are between 2800-3500lbs. Should I be ok with my current outlets/ and a good extension cord?

Anyone running their maxjax on a 15amp circuit?

I had problems running mine with the 15A but I'm lifting at least 3120# that is my lightest vehicle. I had already run a 30A circuit for my Atlas mid-rise, so I added a 20A outlet with 10/2 wire like the 30A circuit and that works great. Obviously Dannmar recommends a 20A so I assume it will work fine with a 20A, I jut already had the 30A to tap into.
 

petee_c

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KW area, Ontario CANADA
I had problems running mine with the 15A but I'm lifting at least 3120# that is my lightest vehicle. I had already run a 30A circuit for my Atlas mid-rise, so I added a 20A outlet with 10/2 wire like the 30A circuit and that works great. Obviously Dannmar recommends a 20A so I assume it will work fine with a 20A, I jut already had the 30A to tap into.

Thanks Dolfan,

Hopefully it works.. It's a short run from the circuit breaker to the garage, so hopefully my 15amp receptacles will have enough umph.... if not... i'll be pulling a new line ......


P
 

les_garten

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Thanks Dolfan,

Hopefully it works.. It's a short run from the circuit breaker to the garage, so hopefully my 15amp receptacles will have enough umph.... if not... i'll be pulling a new line ......


P

You may be able to check the wire gauge by pulling off the switchplate. The gauge may be sufficient for 20a. Then just change out the breaker to a 20a breaker and ideally change out the swithplates to 20a.
 

petee_c

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KW area, Ontario CANADA
You may be able to check the wire gauge by pulling off the switchplate. The gauge may be sufficient for 20a. Then just change out the breaker to a 20a breaker and ideally change out the swithplates to 20a.


Yeah... I can check the romex without pulling the cover off the box.... my basement isn't finished, so I can just read the romex going through the studs...

I am tempted to try lifting once I install everything with the current wiring... It runs my Mig welder (Hobart Handler 120) fine...

Just was wondering if the motor would draw less amps, as my vehicles aren't near the max capacity of the lift....

P
 

Fantom

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May 17, 2011
Messages
50
I've had a MaxJax for about a year and a half now, and we've had quite a few problems with it. Granted, most of them were easy fixes and it's been no big deal.

But has anyone experienced a problem where the lift arms don't operate level? I've bled the lines countless times, and switched the lines but still, my arms lift unevenly. WHAT GIVES? Any help is appreciated.
 
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540i6

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Jul 26, 2010
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Hayward, CA
But has anyone experienced a problem where the lift arms don't operate level?

I used to have the same problem, tried everything there is to try, but in the end it turned out that the system simply was not bled all the way. I had to bleed it about 30 times or more. Bleed it, have it go all the way up and down a couple of times, then bleed it again... After that it was always even until I replaced my hoses with different ones. Now it isn't perfectly even, but it's close enough for me for now.

And remember, every time you disconnect/reconnect the hoses, you introduce air into the system.
 

les_garten

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I've had a MaxJax for about a year and a half now, and we've had quite a few problems with it. Granted, most of them were easy fixes and it's been no big deal.

But has anyone experienced a problem where the lift arms don't operate level? I've bled the lines countless times, and switched the lines but still, my arms lift unevenly. WHAT GIVES? Any help is appreciated.

I aksed them about this when I was researching this jack, and was told that it was not a problem. I'm curious in your experiences.
 

petee_c

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Oct 4, 2010
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KW area, Ontario CANADA
I'm still in the install stage. Still need to put the fittings on the cylinders. Working on aligning the posts in the proper spot.

3 bay garage, about 33x22.5'. I've got the posts mounted about 10'6" away from the garage door. My garage doors are 9' wide, which allows a bit of wiggle room in terms of parking the car, using the lift. Lift is in the middle bay. but not quite centered, due to the saw cut.

Couple things I've run into, or are of note.
- 124" between the saw cuts that border the middle bay
- One of my posts will have the plate crossing a saw cut.
- 125" is the distance thus far between outside edges of the post plates.
- 8/10 bolt holes will be 7+" from any saw cuts/cracks.
- 2/10 bolts are about 5" from the nearest crack. (1 back corner, and 1 side one both from same post)
- I have a bit of slope for drainage in my garage, probably due to our winter climate. Looks like I will need to use between 0-3 shims on the posts to achieve plumb posts.

- I do not know the PSI rating of my 'crete. I will hopefully find out the depth when I do a pilot hole - time permitting maybe tonight. I'm going to go ahead with the install, if I have 4".

I plan to have the posts in place for most of the spring/summer/fall. Likely will take down the driver side lift for the winter.

- Boxster S parks in the middle bay during fair weather mid March - late October. My Jetta daily driver gets that parking spot in the winter.

- I can pull in between the lifts with the boxster, and open the driver store at least to the 2nd detent and get out fairly comfortably. Passenger side door isn't openned all that often. If I center the boxster between the lift posts, looks like I should have between 19-20" space between the car and the inside edge of the posts.

My wife's parking spot isn't affected by the posts... She parks to the Left bay.
 

Fantom

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May 17, 2011
Messages
50
I guess I'll continue to bleed it, although it doesn't seem to help.

les garten, it really is a great lift and I absolutely love it. The majority of the problems occurred during shipment but Garage Equipment Supply was more than accommodating.
 

dmeadow

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952
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Houston, Texas
I've had a MaxJax for about a year and a half now, and we've had quite a few problems with it. Granted, most of them were easy fixes and it's been no big deal.

But has anyone experienced a problem where the lift arms don't operate level? I've bled the lines countless times, and switched the lines but still, my arms lift unevenly. WHAT GIVES? Any help is appreciated.

There are quite a few folks that have had this problem, if you look into the archives, including me. I still don't have it going up level, though I haven't bled it as much as others. Some folks have received new splitters to combat the problem.

My problem is with the same post even when I swap sides of the splitter, so I think it is something to do with that cylinder not bleeding, rather than the splitter.

It hasn't been that big a deal with the cars I've been lifting, though sometimes I drop the car onto the first safety stop to level it out before going up further.
 

Fantom

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May 17, 2011
Messages
50
Thanks, I did a quick search but didn't see much, so I'll look a little deeper. I believe the same thing is happening to me; I think one cylinder isn't bleeding correctly.
 

Rodbuilder

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Aug 2, 2010
Messages
42
Hey Les, I'm over by Ft Myers and if you get over this way you are welcome to come by and check mine out. I've had it for a couple years and no regrets. Here is a picture of one from another forum with a good idea, I'll be doing this to mine. Never had an occasion to have concern but it's just one more safety feature. Also a couple threads from the Vette forum I'm on with more discussion.

MaxJaxSouthLegwithsafetystrap.jpg


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-general-discussion/2692757-max-jax.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-corvette-general-discussion/2749611-maxjax-installation-tips.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-corvette-general-discussion/2657976-max-jax-car-lift.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-...post-lift-for-regular-home-garage-for-c6.html
 

Mike007

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Dec 4, 2010
Messages
2,594
I did a semi-permanent install of mine. I got tired of tripping over the hoses. I'm very happy with mine. I can never go back to laying on my back working on a vehicle again. :beer:
 

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Dolfan

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Hey Les, I'm over by Ft Myers and if you get over this way you are welcome to come by and check mine out. I've had it for a couple years and no regrets. Here is a picture of one from another forum with a good idea, I'll be doing this to mine. Never had an occasion to have concern but it's just one more safety feature. Also a couple threads from the Vette forum I'm on with more discussion.

MaxJaxSouthLegwithsafetystrap.jpg


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-general-discussion/2692757-max-jax.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-corvette-general-discussion/2749611-maxjax-installation-tips.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-corvette-general-discussion/2657976-max-jax-car-lift.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-...post-lift-for-regular-home-garage-for-c6.html

What is with the strap and anchor on the back side of the post????? Never seen anyone do this!
 

les_garten

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Hey Les, I'm over by Ft Myers and if you get over this way you are welcome to come by and check mine out. I've had it for a couple years and no regrets. Here is a picture of one from another forum with a good idea, I'll be doing this to mine. Never had an occasion to have concern but it's just one more safety feature. Also a couple threads from the Vette forum I'm on with more discussion.



http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-general-discussion/2692757-max-jax.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-corvette-general-discussion/2749611-maxjax-installation-tips.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-corvette-general-discussion/2657976-max-jax-car-lift.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-...post-lift-for-regular-home-garage-for-c6.html

If I get down your way, I'll definitely want to see your install. Thanx for those links.

I do have a few questions:

1) Should I just buy Epoxy set bolts from the Get-Go?

2) Anybody used this jack with a Porsche 911? I've had issues with the wheelbase and lack of clearance using a 2-post before with my Porsche.
 

regguy1

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I did a semi-permanent install of mine. I got tired of tripping over the hoses. I'm very happy with mine. I can never go back to laying on my back working on a vehicle again. :beer:

Interesting idea, :thumbup: are the hoses in plastic conduit?

Any details on how you did this or anything you'd do differently?
 
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Dolfan

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2) Anybody used this jack with a Porsche 911? I've had issues with the wheelbase and lack of clearance using a 2-post before with my Porsche.

I can get my lowered Z06 onto the MaxJax and it is slammed to the ground. I use the lift pucks on the car locations and then nothing on the lift arms, I leave off the big pads and just place the lift arm under the lift puck, works fine.

I don't think you will have an issue.
 

les_garten

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I can get my lowered Z06 onto the MaxJax and it is slammed to the ground. I use the lift pucks on the car locations and then nothing on the lift arms, I leave off the big pads and just place the lift arm under the lift puck, works fine.

I don't think you will have an issue.

Hmmm,
My Porsche is a Euro car and is basically factory Lowered because it is at European height Specs. The problem I had with the other 2 Post I used was that the arms couldn't "get around" the wheels. As well as the car had to be jacked up to get the arms under.

If anyone has a 911, I would love to know the post to post distance for sure. I may go over to PelicanParts and see if they have them over there. I'll bet they do.
 

Mike007

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Messages
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Interesting idea, :thumbup: are the hoses in plastic conduit?

Any details on how you did this or anything you'd do differently?

Thanks. It's typical 1-1/4" pvc electrical conduit. I didn't even glue it. I had a 25' hose made locally for $70. There's nothing I'd do differently. I like having it ready to go without dealing with hooking up the hoses.
 

regguy1

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Thanks. It's typical 1-1/4" pvc electrical conduit. I didn't even glue it. I had a 25' hose made locally for $70. There's nothing I'd do differently. I like having it ready to go without dealing with hooking up the hoses.

Was there any difficulty bleeding the system with hoses routed overhead?
Seems like there might be a possibility of air pocket .....
Just a single hose inside the Conduit (no elbows or fittings?)
 

Mike007

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Messages
2,594
Was there any difficulty bleeding the system with hoses routed overhead?
Seems like there might be a possibility of air pocket .....
Just a single hose inside the Conduit (no elbows or fittings?)

No problems bleeding it. Think about it. As long as the volume in the hose is less then the cylinder, it will bleed properly. 25' of 1/4" hose is a very small percentage of the cylinder volume.

Yes, I just snaked a single hose no fittings through the conduit.
 
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